| Author | Message | |||
     Hootowl |
quote: URGENT --- someone please tell me what fuse or relay is responible for turn signals ! I dont have the service manual at hand. I am @ work and would hate to ride home 45 miles without the little fokkers working ... thanks Boese, Was it raining? If so, it may not be a fuse. The turn signal flasher is not a sealed unit. | |||
| 99x1 |
"...what fuse or relay is responible for turn signals !" The power comes from the ACC fuse to the turn signal relay, to the handlebar turnsignal switch, to the respective turn signals. The brake light is also off the ACC fuse, so if it works - the relay is (probably) at fault. It is a DIN (European) 3 terminal style (31 - ground terminal, 49 -power in, 49a - power out) - don't plug an American style 3 terminal in (terminal L (load), X (power), P (pilot lamp). The P terminal (meant for a dash lamp) will short to ground when it flashes. A 2 terminal can be used - BUT, it must be oriented so the ground (31) is not used. A Littelfuse EFL 102 heavy duty 2 terminal electronic flasher works OK in mine... | |||
| Boese |
URGENT --- someone please tell me what fuse or relay is responible for turn signals ! I dont have the service manual at hand. I am @ work and would hate to ride home 45 miles without the little fokkers working ... thanks | |||
| Ara |
I've been wondering whether there's a standard automotive equivalent for the turn signal flasher unit for the tube frame bikes. So Boese needs to know and I want to know. | |||
| Boese |
yes please ! I was messing with the kellerman bar end turn signals. the rear on the left side had some issues. I screwed it out and back in and was playing with it when suddenly no turn signals were working anymore. So i figured fuse or relay. there are 2 relays under seat, one for ignition / fuel pump, i figured that out, but even changing doesnt do it .... god damn american engineering  ( it is german SIEMENS relays )  | |||
| Hans |
Boese, In the manual for the 2000 M2 Fuseblock is under the right side of the tail section. The fuse are organized on the picture, seen from behind or below: Three rows of 3 fuses standing next to each other. Upper from left to right: Lights-Instruments-Accessory Middle: Ignition-Memory-Spare Lower: Spare 30 amps-Spare-Spare All fuses 15 amps except the one lower left. Maybe this can help Hans | |||
| Boese |
Hans thanks. All fuses seem to be intact. I am riddled. bulbs are ok too. Dont know what else it could be.... I will just ride it home and check my manual for a flasher or relay at a different location. Its pissing me off thank god i got 4 wheels again tomorrow. then I will just tear it all apart. Need to get my ass in gear and finishe welding that cut up tail section anyway. Although I cannot do a single seater any more  now | |||
| Boese |
nobody reads the elctrical section. So here more info. All fuses are ok, both relays operate the fuel pump when changed but no turn signals. any ideas ? help instead of whining !  | |||
| Reepicheep |
Do both signals share a common ground at the wiring harness? That could make a loose connection cause both to fail at once. Bill "who *does* read the electrical section" | |||
| Bomber |
2000 M2 DOES share a ground in the turnsignal circuit . . . . with barend signals, does that mean you have only the signals on the bar end, and none on back or front? in other words, do you have two or four turn signals? I had a similar problem when instlling old BMW turn signals on my thumper (damn german engineering {chcuckle}), but, although I managed to get them working, it was throught the mess with the wires until they work I have no idea what I did school of repair | |||
| Rick_a |
I had my first charging system problem today. Last several days the bike has been starting hard...barely cranking over. Today it finally died. The battery is pretty new so I new that wasn't the problem. For some reason I had a feeling it was the rectifier/regulator wiring so that was the first thing I checked. The connector from the stator had come completely apart behind the battery tray. That sucker is taped together now! I don't know exactly how long it's been disconnected, but I'm damn amazed it actually ran for that long. Battery voltage was down to around 11.3V. | |||
| Geofg |
Hi all, I would like to mod my Firebolt w/dual-filament bulbs so that both headlights would be on for the hi/low beams. Has anyone done this yet? Would this just be a matter of some hi/low bulbs and a little rewiring, or will I need to replace the lenses as well. Think it'll overload the fuses? I know some folk have set their XBs up so both the hi and low beams are on all the time, but that's not really what I'm shooting for. Thanks, -Geof | |||
| Hootowl |
Rick, The stator connector on mine was zip tied together from the factory. Forgive the crudity of my drawing.
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| Ara |
Anybody ever experience this: Right turn signal flashes at twice normal speed when the engine is running in the neighborhood of 2,000 rmp? Left side turn signal functions normally. Any guesses? | |||
| Reepicheep |
Is the "other" right turn signal burned out? You replace one or the other with an LED lamp assembly, or other different bulb? | |||
| 99x1 |
"..turn signal flashes at twice normal speed..." DOT (Dept of Transport) requires turn signal flashers to indicate open or shorted conditions - in the distant past flashers were a bimetallic strip that heated - thus a short would cause a faster flash, partial opens (ie 1 bulb) flashes slow. New style flashers have a chip inside and are rated for the number of bulbs driven (ie 2 X 21W) - if the current draw changes it has to indicate a malfunction by changing flash rate (DOT regulation). (The short version) Something is probably shorting. | |||
| 99x1 |
I saw a Yamaha R6 yesterday that had the dual lamp brake light converted to turn signals - got thinking about regulations and looked it up - (SAE, USA/CDN) Minimum distance between rear turn signals on a motorcycle is 9", front is 16" with 4" from edge of headlight. (Buells have extenders on the front signal stalks to meet this). There are also regulations on minimum mirror size (from memory 12.5 sq ins?), minimum turn signal size, required reflectors (3 red rear, 2 amber front), and DOT approved flasher relays. I think there are a lot of bikes that could be pulled over by the police - if they wanted a reason to... | |||
| Blake |
I think the old electro-mechanical flashers are too cool. Like the one my '97 Cyclone uses. ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) Take a look inside one if you ever get a chance. Turn signals on motorcycles... not mandatory in Texas. | |||
| Ara |
Reep and 99x1, All bulbs work. No changes to bulbs or turn signal system. Probably a wire with frayed insulation. That'll be fun to find... Thanks guys. | |||
| Lake_bueller |
99X1....I was thinking of putting that set-up into my Buell. I've found a few on e-bay for about the same price as a pair of LP Short Stalks. Has anyone here tried the conversion? I'd like to get some input before trying the product. | |||
| Caboose |
The starter on my race ECM, K&N air filter, D&D equip'ed 2001 Buell X1 is not working. There has been a slight oil leak in the area, can't tell if its primary fluid or engine oil (does't really have a smell). My local mechanic is having trouble locating the problem....apparently the starter is fine. Is there anything obvious that we should be looking out for? Bank angle sensor etc? My side stand inter-lock has been shorted. | |||
| Jocklandjohn |
...dont know if this is a clutch or starter problem....but here goes, maybe someone can help....due to work the M2 is only just now out of winter storage. Battery was removed over winter and kept charged. Also removed old oil and filled up with new cheap lighter oil for winter, planning to remove before spring use. Today installed battery, checked all bits and bobs, fuel on, choke open, etc. Hit starter and it turned the engine a couple of times then 'clicked' out at the starter. Tried several times and got one 'almost start' then it reverted to clicking away at the starter. There appears to be some drag in the clutch which feels odd. If I pull in the clutch in any gear I can still feel the gear engagement, and although I have adjusted the clutch a little the problem persists. Thinking maybe the battery needed a top-up I did that and tried again but still no joy, the starter just whiirrs and clicks away and there is no enagagement as if to turn over engine. Any suggestions? Might try this in the clutch section too, so apologies Admin for the double post, delete whichever you think less apporpriate if you want. Thanks. | |||
| Caboose |
Back to my previous post, my starter is not fine. There is oil inside of it??? Anybody know why??? | |||
| Blake |
Oil inside your starter? That used to happen on my old Yamaha a lot, but the starter was mounted down below near the oil pan/crankcase. On a Buell? Possibly doe to a tip over and/or terribly overfilled transmission. If the crankshaft seal between crankcase and primary leaks engine oil can migrate into the primary/transmission. If it is allowed to build it might possibly get slung into the starter. Kinda hard to imagine though. In any case it sounds like the o-ring that seals the starter's electrics from any oil isn't doing its job. Check your transmission oil level. If overfilled, determine cause (human or crankshaft seal). Have seal replaced if necessary or train human in proper filling of transmission as applicable. | |||
| Dave |
There really isn't any way (that I can see) that oil can get into the starter. There is a gasket between it and the primary but if anything, it'd just leak a small amount below the starter if that gasket was bad. Before you do all that...make sure all battery connections are secure and clean. Don't forget the thick braided ground cable under the batter tray area. After that, I'd bench check the starter and solenoid. Ya can apply 12v DC from your battery to it and see if the solenoid engages. (The starter/solenoid assembly needs to be grounded to the battery) Ya can also apply voltage to the starter to see if it spins. DAve | |||
| Caboose |
Thanks for the replies. Blake, I tip my bike over every day....just until my knee touches  . The fluids have never been over-filled, I do most of my own work. All connections and grounds have been checked, the starter bench tested....its toast. My local shop has never seen such a thing. At first I thought I had a slight oil leak from between the cases. Somehow the oil was getting into the starter and leaking out on top of the crankcase. If we can figure out how/why I'll let you guys know. | |||
| Blake |
Check tranny oil level? | |||
| Dave |
So the solenoid is good and it's just the starter itself that is bad? It'd be interesting to see how oil got in there when you take it apart. Then again...disassemble it, clean it up, and it may work. Those are expensive puppies...I'd try to get one used. DAve | |||
| Rick_a |
My Buell left me stranded for the first time.  I was coming off a stoplight gunning it to get around a slower car...then the tach started getting erratic, then she sputtered a bit and almost stalled. I kept it running, stumbling and backfiring...just enough to pull off and avoid getting run over. Inspection revealed all the fuses, relays, and the main breaker are good. The tach had an arc go through the bezel large enough to leave a burn mark. The battery still showed 13 some volts but the bike would pop the circuit breaker if I hit the start button. She's dead now and I probably won't have time to look into it 'till the weekend. Any ideas? I unplugged the tach and the symptom remained. All the switches were good. I fear something bad. I had to drive a car for the first time in a year. THE HORROR there was also a tremendous brown spider getting in my way the entire time...apparently claiming the bike as its own | |||
| Hootowl |
Ignition on, fuse OK. Start/Stop switch on, fuse OK. Starter button pressed, breaker trips. Hmmm. Starter? Maybe, but unlikely as you weren't using the starter when all hell broke loose. Also, the current for the starter doesn't run through the breaker, with the exception of the current required for the solenoid. It may be that something else is shorted, or NEARLY shorted, and is drawing JUST enough current to trip the breaker when you try to use more. All I can suggest is to disconnect things one at a time until you stop tripping it. I'd start with the speedo sensor. Don't ask. |
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