| Author | Message | ||
     Bigdog_tim |
Ok - I messed up. I had pulled the air box off of my 2000 M2. Previously, I did a "home job" reroute of the breather lines. I was getting some oil blow by - and decided to check everything out. I managed to shear the head off the rear cylinder breather bolt. Anyone with an easy, idiot-proof way of getting the old bolt out? Oh yeah - and I was using LIBERAL amounts of loc-tite red. | ||
| Clarry |
You probably should have used Teflon pipe dope, instead. I'm not sure what will soften red loctite, but I'd try something like carb cleaner or Brakleen, then use a so-called "Easy-Out" to back it out. Here's a link to my "Breather Upgrade" pics - http://rides.webshots.com/album/412721198FMhgsI | ||
| Ragnagwar |
Heat is supposed to help with the removal of the "Dreaded Red". Acetone will also eat it up, but mind the fumes and any plastic or rubber parts in the area. Next time try "Hylomar" as stated in the manual. It will prevent any oil leaks, keep the bolts in place and it never hardens. | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
This is a good lesson for all Buellers. Only put red loctite on things you never intend to take apart. Fortunately heat softens all loctites. Use a propane torch sparingly and an easyout [the biggest you can get in the hole]. I use Hi-Temp RTV silicon glue on my puke tube hose barbs. It never gets hard either. KK. PS. Dismount your gas tank, fuel lines and carb before attempting this. Setting your Buell on fire would be uncool. | ||
| Jackbequick |
It takes about 800F heat to get red LocTite to lose it strength. I'd probably use propane mini torch or plumbers torch, shield the area above the broken bolt with a piece of 1/8th or so aluminum plate held at angle, and have at it with the heat. That breather bolt is a 1/2"-13 TPI bolt. Another option would be to drill the breather hole out with a series of increasingly larger drills until the tap size drill (27/64") is reached. At that point you might find the bolt rement can be uncoiled or collapsed inward with a small punch and removed. If it still did not want to come out, I'd consider drilling it out 1/64" larger (to 7/16") as long as the drilled out portion was still well centered. The larger drill may take the tips off of the threads in the cylinder but it should leave enough threads that it will still retain a new breather bolt. I wrap those breather bolts with about two wraps of the thicker yellow Teflon tape (gas service tape?) when I put them in. They only need to be taken down to the point of light contact, they're not likely to back off with the hoses hanging from them. The yellow tape is heavier and will come back out with the breather bolts or can be picked out of the breathers if you pull them later. I don't like the idea of any of the Teflon tape getting down into the cam chest or oil return system. Jack | ||
| Bigdog_tim |
Ok - my report. I bought a mini-butane torch and heated was was left. I had also bought the square eazy outs. Honestly - this was way easier than I thought it would be. I ended up putting the Harley Sportster version of the Forcewinder on it. WOW - what a rush! I NEED to get to the dyno. I do have before dynos (Vance & Hines exhaust, rejetting the CV carb, and the K&N replacement filter). But this is way better. I wheelied in 1,2 and 3rd gear. I will post the dyno next time I can get it done. FYI - if others try this - the HD Sportster kit is actually too small for the breather bolts. I made it work by using needle nose pliers to get the breather bolts snugged down. There is NOT enough clearance to put a socket on it. So - I am NOT up to spec for torque (and yes I do have a torque wrenches) but I figured - close enough. And ABSOLUTELY no blow by. This is a MUST do enhancement IMHO | ||
| Jackbequick |
Good for you! If the breather bolts are not tight enough, you'll see some leakage eventually. Maybe. But I'm sure you are now a staunch advocate of judicious use of red Loctite and undertightening breather bolts. :>) Nothing is more rewarding than getting through something like that and winding up with a good running bike. You might want to check a plug for color before you run it too long and too hard just to make sure its not on the lean side. They always seem to run best there but too lean can have unfortunate results. Jack |
