| Author |
Message |
    
Rob04xb12
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2007 - 05:05 pm: | 
|
So I put the open airbox kit and a SpecialOPS exhaust on my 12S. Now the thing "sputters" (or like surges)
What could cause this???
TPS?
Thanks for the help |
Haven564
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2007 - 07:08 am: |
|
A TPS reset needs to be done after those changes. |
Blake
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2007 - 09:50 pm: |
|
The stock ECM is not made to work with that combination of performance parts, thus it will not run well. A race ECM may solve your problem.
A "TPS Reset" is required only to address mechanical wear-in, or after adjusting the actual throttle position sensor itself, or after installing an ECM that was never before installed on that particular motorcycle.
The "TPS reset" is a procedure which rewrites the TPS voltage value stored within the ECM and which corresponds to the throttle fully closed condition. No matter what else you might do to the motorcycle, as long as the throttle closed position and/or ECM are not altered/changed, there is no need to perform a "TPS Reset" procedure. |
Elang
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2007 - 10:03 am: |
|
Did you try running it out on the highway for a while? I keep reading that both the Special Ops and the Drummer will work fine with the stock ECM, but you need to run it over 3500/4000 rpm's for a few minutes for the stock ECM to re-learn the proper air/fuell ratio. As I understand it the stock ECM will allow for small adjustments, and the main difference of the race ECM is a higher rev limit and a wider richer air/fuel ratio allowed, plus ignition and fuel mapping tailored specifically for an engine running the Buell Race Kit. I did talk to a HD shop mechanic, and he said even when they put in a race ECM and do a TPS reset/adjustment - they still ride the bike for ~15 min on the highway to get the bike running properly.
Since the release of Buell's 1996 models, no publicly available Buell Race ECM (for EFI models) or Race Ignition Module (for carbureted models) has provided an increase to the engine's rev limit. From model years 1996 through 2007, the rev limit for all 1203cc Buells has been 6,800 RPM. For 2008 models, that has increased to 7,100 RPM. 
Blake
(Message edited by blake on August 05, 2007) |
Rob04xb12
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2007 - 09:06 pm: |
|
I did run it on the interstate for a few hours acutally... and thats at about 3500-4000 RPM. It only really seems to do it when im holding a constant throttle at low RPM (1500-3000). Its fine under acceleration
Im really concerned if im running the bike too lean, with the open airbox and exhaust, and causing damage to it.
Thanks for the help |
Bad_karma
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2007 - 11:16 pm: |
|
Robert
Take a look at your plugs they should answer that question.
Joe |
Rob04xb12
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 08:10 am: |
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I just replaced them. I put iridium plugs in when i did the airbox... ill look at them anyway |
Blake
| | Posted on Sunday, August 05, 2007 - 11:56 am: |
|
Reading a spark plug is not always as easy as some might imagine, especially for a problem that occurs at a specific condition of speed, temperature and throttle position. In order to use the condition of the spark plugs to help diagnose a condition that is causing such a problem, I'd recommend the following procedure:
- Before you start you'll need:
- a new set of spark plugs, brand new, never before used. .
- A couple of heavy duty zip-lock freezer bags. You'll use these to store/protect the plugs that you will be scrutinizing. .
- Mechanics gloves and the applicable socket and wrench including extension(s) and u-joints to facilitate the quickest possible replacement of the spark plug(s) that you wish to scrutinize.
. - Warm the bike up good and hot and head out to where you will be able to ride the bike at the speed(s) and in the conditions that instigate the issue that you are trying to diagnose. .
- Pull over off the road and as quickly as possible install the brand new spark plug(s). Mechanics gloves, socket wrench/socket, socket wrench extensions and u-joints are a must for optimum pit-stop type spark plug swapping. .
- As quickly as possible start the bike and while avoiding large throttle inputs, get the bike up to the applicable speed for some time, ten minutes or so. .
- Then without altering speed simultaneously pull in the clutch lever and hit the kill switch to cut the engine, and pull over off of the road. Strategic planning of exit locations may be beneficial. .
- Remove the new plugs; allow them to cool while avoiding any contact anywhere on their electrode end. Put each spark plug into its own zip-lock bag for safe secure keeping; reinstall the previously used plugs and ride home. .
- Under bright light and with magnifying glass take careful note of any/all deposits on the spark plugs, specifically on the anode, the electrode, and on the porcelain surrounding it.
In general, hard whitish deposits indicate a lean running condition. Dark sooty looking blackish deposits indicate a rich condition. In between those, tan or grayish deposits are normal. Shiny black or crusty black deposits indicate excessive oil in the combustion chamber.
Why go to all the trouble detailed above? Because depending on engine speed, temperature and throttle position/actuation, an engine may run lean in one case, normal in another, and rich in another. If you want to use the spark plugs to diagnose a specific issue/scenario, it is vital to ensure that the spark plugs are indicating the engine conditions for only that specific problematic scenario of interest.
Please keep in mind that you've changed the configuration of your engine (intake and exhaust ) to a point where the stock ignition and fuel mapping may not be able to fully compensate. Or, you may have an intake manifold seal air leak, or... ?
Let us know what you find. |
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