| Author | Message | ||
     Whiplash70z |
Ok, I am pretty new at motorcycles as I just bought my 1st one. It is a used 2002 P3. I tried to change my oil last night after looking through the threads on here for info. I'm concerned that I maybe drained the trans fluid and not the oil. I've owned the bike for a couple months now and have had to put a qt in it since then. I realize that the oil would still look fairly clean, but compared to what came out of the filter, the oil looked new. I read on here that my bike should probably hold about 2.5 qts. My bike seemed to barely take 2 qts. The plug that I removed to drain it was on the left side of the engine, just above the muffler in the rear. Did I get the right one? I didn't ride today because I'm afraid I got the wrong one. I did ride for a couple miles after the oil change and it seemed ok but I didn't ride for that long. Any and help is welcome!!! Thanks for listening. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yup! You probably drained the transmission oil. I'll let the Blast experts weigh in for where all the other bits are... I know the tubers (oil drains through a rubber tube along the swingarm) and the XB's (oil drains from the swingarm). Not sure where the P3 oil tank drains. Easy to fill back up. Just pop off the derby cover and add appropriate fluids (i.e. formula +) to the appropriate level. You probably didn't hurt anything, but don't ride it any further. A magazine did the same thing at a track, and made it a few laps under race conditions before the transmission exploded. The most vulnerable part in there is probably the 5th gear drive assembly, so after adding the fluids back in, lean the bike as far as the right as you can manage without dropping it to drool in fresh lube to those needle bearings. | ||
| Jlnance |
Whiplash, yep, you drained the transmission fluid. You're not the first to make that mistake.  First thing to do is fill the transmission back up. It takes a quart of engine oil. I use Mobil 1 15w50 car oil, which is the same thing I run in the engine. You need to remove the left footpeg bracket in order to get to the inspection cover of the transmission. This is unfortunately a pain in the ass. It is held on by 3 nuts which are difficult to get to. Take the seat off the bike, and remove the battery. You should be able to see the 3 nuts on the left side of the frame. You will need a universal joint and a couple of socket extensions to get them off. Profanity helps. Remove the nuts, and take off the foot peg bracket. With the bracket gone, you can remove the inspection cover from the side of the transmission. It is held on by 3 T-27 Torx screws. You can get a T-27 driver at Sears. Don't use the much more common T-25 size. It will almost work but strip the heads. After you get the inspection cover off, have someone hold the bike vertical, and use a funnel and put 1 qt of engine oil into the transmission. If the bike isn't vertical, the oil will run out the hole. Now, put a new gasket on the inspection cover and reinstall it. The 2002 Blast may have a plastic inspection cover which uses an o-ring instead of a gasket. I can't remember. If it doesn't have a gasket, you obviously don't need to replace it. Torque the screws down a little at a time so you don't warp the cover. Now put the foot peg bracket back on. Again, profanity helps. Now that you've done all that, you're ready to change the oil. It drains out via two rubber hoses attached to the left swing arm. Unbolt the clip that holds the hoses on, and remove the drain plugs. Drain the oil out. Replace the plugs and bolt the hoses back onto the bike. Now remove the oil filter. It will be full of oil, so it's a bit messy. Take the new oil filter and fill it most of the way up with oil. Then smear oil on it's gasket. Screw the new filter on hand tight. Do not use a wrench to tighten it. Add the rest of the oil via the fill plug in front of gas cap. I think it takes 2 quarts total, including what you put in the filter. Thats all there is to changing the oil. BTW, as long as you've got the inspection cover off the transmission, it's a good time to adjust the clutch cable and ball ramp machanism. It's easy to do, but I'm out of typing energy. If you're interested let me know, and I'll write something up for you. | ||
| Whiplash70z |
Well I guess it's a good thing I went with my gut instinct! Thanks for the info guys, it looks like I'll have a busy weekend fixing things. I think I might try adjusting the clutch while I'm in there so if you get a chance to write something up that would be great! (Message edited by whiplash70z on July 26, 2007) | ||
| Jlnance |
Whiplash - Here is how to do the clutch adjustment. I'm assuming you already have the inspection cover off. 1 - Slide the rubber protector off the clutch cable adjuster (the turnbuckle in the cable) and loosen it up so the cable has slack. It has a jam nut on it, so you will need to loosen that. 2 - On the clutch pack, behind the inspection cover door, there is a spring loaded thingie covering an adjustment screw. Remove the thingie. 3 - Turn the screw in the center of the clutch pack COUNTER CLOCKWISE until it lightly bottoms out. Then turn it CLOCKWISE between 1/4 and 1/2 a turn. 4 - Your clutch ball ramp is now adjusted. You can refill the transmission with oil at this point. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in (don't ask how I know this.) 5 - Put the inspection cover back on the transmission. DO NOT FORGET TO REPLACE THE THINGIE. Use a new inspection cover gasket if your Blast uses inspection cover gaskets. 6 - Adjust the turnbuckle on the clutch cable so that there is between 1/8 and 1/4 an inch of free play. The easiest way to measure this is to pull the cable case back away from the clutch lever and measure the gap between the end of the cable case and the leaver. It's easier to do this if you have two people because one can watch the gap and the other can adjust the turnbuckle. 7 - Squeeze and release the clutch lever 3 times. 8 - Repeat the adjustment in step 6, then tighten up the jam nut on the turn buckle. If you have some cable lube, this would be a good time to lube the clutch cable. You will need to lube both the portion above and below the turnbuckle, as the turnbuckle prevents the lube in the upper portion from reaching the lower portion. | ||
| Whiplash70z |
Thanks Jlnance, I apprieciate all the help! | ||
| Whiplash70z |
Man, I never knew profanity would help soooo much  I got in done but in the midst of trying to get the footpeg bracket off I filled the trans back up without adjusting the clutch. Oh well, I guess I can save that for the next oil change. I printed out the instructions you wrote up for me so I'll have it for next time. Again, thank you for all the help. | ||
| Jlnance |
I'm glad you got it refilled. Isn't that foot peg bracket a bitch? | ||
| Whiplash70z |
AND THEN SOME!!!!!! I liked to almost never get those 3 nuts off. The first 14mm socket I tried wouldn't fit all the way on because of the stud threads sticking through. I bought a deepwell and it was too long to get in there. I finally found one that was just right. Pain in the butt! |
