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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through August 08, 2007 » Race ECM « Previous Next »

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Dhill8560
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 01:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's my understanding that once you put in a race ECM it has the ability to adjust itself. If I'm wrong than please correct me, but if I'm not, could someone tell me the best RPM range to get it to adjust. (I plan on getting it remapped by a dealer, but I was hoping on riding with it in the meantime)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Race ECM will need to have the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) zero'd. The ECM has to learn what resistance your particular throttle position sensor ends up at for various "twist" positions. That will never self correct or self calibrate (which is a shame, because it could).

The bike *might* run when you slap a new ECM in, it depends on the value in the new ECM and where your actual throttle ends up. They will be "unmatched" until you do the TPS reset.

I think both the stock and Race ECM have open (non adjusting) and closed (adapt to your bike) loop operational modes to tweak the baseline curves at a fairly high level. They don't build new curves, just shift them around some based on sensor inputs.

Al Lighton at American Sportbike knows a lot more, and knows how to download entire new curves custom built for your bike configuration. Unless it is far from stock, the custom curves won't buy you much (I think).
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Cityxslicker
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, tech question. 2006 XB9SX with Buell Race ECM, Buell race pipe and high flow air filter. Bike "cracked" original ECM @9200 miles. Replacement Race ECM in bike, TPS zero'd, bike will rev to 2500 rpm, hold for 5 seconds then DIES. Never had any runability issues with bike prior to this. WTF ?!? Should I put in the stock ECM and run a power commander or teklusion?
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Prior
Posted on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cityxslicker,
Have you ridden the bike a bit to give the new ECM a chance to 'learn' your bike? It takes a bit of time for them to sync up after changing them out.

Mine was the same way until I let it get warmed up and rode it for 20 miles or so.
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Cityxslicker
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

bike wont hold the idle long enough to ride, dies and kills with in 5 seconds, kind of like a M.I. message, it just self terminates .
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Packdog
Posted on Saturday, June 23, 2007 - 04:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay,....

As I understand it, as soon as the bike starts it revs up to 2500 rpm for about 5 seconds, then dies - with no intervention from you.

If so I am working on a similar problem and have not yet found the solution. My problem bike (06 XB12Ss) simply cut out in the middle of a turn (similar to the BAS problem, although it's recall has already been done), and has not run since. It is using the stock ECM.

1). Has the bike ever run correctly using the Race ECM, or did this problem arrive with the newly installed ECM?

2). What do you mean by the original ECM "cracked"? Like, physically cracked and no longer worked? If so, do you know what caused it??

3). After resetting the ECM and running the idle up to the 5.1 volts, spray some canned air on the TPS itself (it is cold and kind of freezes it) and watch the VDSTS (or DigiTech, or whatever you are using). If it fluctuates a lot, it could be (part of) the problem. Mine was jumping between about 4.2 and 5.7 while being blasted by the cold.

After finding an intake air leak and replacing the TPS, my problem bike is still doing the start/rev thing, but it now at least stumbles and tries to idle for an additional 10 seconds.... seems like progress, but who knows.

Hope this helps a bit.

I am wondering if there is a kind of "starting loop" or map in the ECMs to get the bike started prior to getting into the well documented open and closed loops.

Just in case you haven't thought to do it, make sure you clean the contacts inside of the connectors. And in honor of Al Lighton's rules - make sure you check the grounding!

Good luck. I'll let you know if I find my gremlin.... we might be chasing the same one.
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Cityxslicker
Posted on Monday, July 02, 2007 - 01:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guess who is going to waste the techs entire day as I watch and verify every check? The bike is dirty, I ride off road with it, but under the seat where all the gear is, it is clean. I will try the compressed air and the meter. I will recheck all the NEW fuses that were installed two days ago. I will be with the regional service rep on Tuesday... Will post with results. I love my Buell, but my Kawi never gave me this grief.
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Cityxslicker
Posted on Monday, July 02, 2007 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New battery, battery cables, starter/ relay and switch, new plugs, set of fuses, race ecm and a tps reset, and a can of the compressed air. Back on the road. Priceless... Ready for summer dirty riding.
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