| Author | Message | ||
     Phantom5oh |
I'm replacing the stator in my XB12Scg this weekend. I was wondering from those who have done it, is it very difficult? I don't have it apart yet, I'm just trying to get an overview before I tear into it. The manual didn't seem very helpful, if I recall correctly, from last night, it says: 1) Remove primary cover. 2) Remove primary chain. 3) Pull off stator. 4) Install is the reverse of removal. That's not very descriptive, and it doesn't give me a good sense of what I need to do. Can anyone lend some insight to this job? | ||
| Blake |
Phantom, It is not difficult if you have necessary tools. You'll need the spring compressor in order to remove the clutch basket along with the primary chain and the drive sprocket/generator rotor cup that covers the stator. You'll also need the locking bar to hold the sprockets in place for tightening and loosening. I'd strongly recommend using a pneumatic impact wrench for removing the drive sprocket nut and the transmission sprocket retaining nut. The manual should refer you to the other applicable sections for those other procedures. They are detailed fairly well. For instance, see the section on Primary Cover Removal on or near page 6-4. Then see the section 6.3 for removal os clutch release mechanism. Then... Primary Chain Removal etc. | ||
| Phantom5oh |
I must have completely missed that in my frustration the other night! Thanks Blake. I have the locking bar to hold the sprockets, but I'll need to pick up a spring compressor. Unless I can find one locally or get one overnighted, I won't be changing the stator this weekend. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You mean snap ring compressor, right? Not a clutch spring compressor. The clutch comes off as an intact unit. It should be easy to find a local source for a snap ring compressor. Even easier if you have a pair of needle nose pliars you have not emotionally bonded with, and have a grinder...  | ||
| Phantom5oh |
After rereading the manual it appeared that I would need the diaphragm spring compressor. I ordered one from American Sport Bike and had it overnighted. The shipping cost for overnight was almost as much as the compressor. Please tell me I didn't waste that money! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good tools are never a waste of money  | ||
| Phantom5oh |
I would agree with you on that one, but I meant wasting money on the overnight shipping. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm trying to stay positive. You don't need it to replace the stator, you can take the tranny nut off, as well as the crank nut, and the clutch assembly, stator bell, and primary triple chain all come off (and go back on) as a unit. The first time I read the manual on my Cyclone, I came to the same conclusion you did, and people here described this approach (which I later did find in the factory service manual). Don't know if dismantling the clutch instead would make it easier or harder, I never took a clutch apart. If you do though, there are modifications to the pre-06 clutch pack that make it a lighter pull, and if you use the new synth formula + transmission oil, should not slip. So you now have the tool to do that if you so choose. | ||
| Blake |
My bad. Reep is correct. Sorry for the confusion. I'll pay for your new spring compressor including the overnight shipping if you like. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Lots of people here (myself included) with 05 and earlier bikes would like to change their clutches to the new 06 configuration, and you need that clutch spring compressor to do that. Make Blake buy it and we can pass it around  . | ||
| Blake |
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| Phantom5oh |
HAHAHA Thanks for the offer Blake, but I'm going to hang onto the tool. I know I'll need it at some point! I pulled it all apart last night and was surprised at how easy it was. The hardest part was trying to figure out how to pull the 4 pin connector through the primary. Once I realized I needed to take the connector apart, it was EASY!!! I don't know what I was sweating about, I just wanted to be prepared. Sometime the manual makes simple things more complicated then they really are. | ||
| Phantom5oh |
I put it all back together last night, how do you know which pin goes where in the connector? They aren't labeled on the new stator? Does it matter? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I doubt it. It's 3 phase AC (on the XB), 2 phase AC (on the tubers). Should be impossible to hook up wrong. | ||
| Blake |
I have nightmares of such things, plugging in the wrong lead to the wrong place and upon pressing the starter butting, being transported into an alternate dimension. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Machines and Power classes were the closest I ever came to another dimension... and not one I care to return to :0 | ||
| Yardbird |
Looks like I've got a toasted stator on my 99s3t. Can anyone confirm that i can replace it without buying a diaghram spring compressor - ie - remove and replace without disassembling the clutch? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Confirmed. You need the primary locking tool (just an aluminum bar the right size), remove both nuts, and take the stator / clutch assembly / primary chain off a single unit. You do NOT need to take the clutch apart. Rumor has it that in a pinch you can tangle a towel into the primary if you don't have the locking tool. Probably less work to fabricate the locking tool then to try the terrible towel. | ||
| Yardbird |
Thanks for the update on taking the primary apart to get at the stator. Next dumb question - I know that the nut on the clutch hub is left hand threaded. Is the nut on the main left handed or right? I have a pneumatic impact wrench but don't want to spin the wrong way with it. Lemme Know..........Thanks.....Yardbird | ||
| Yardbird |
Cancel the request for info ..... I found it elsewhere on this site. Thanks for being here........ Yardbird | ||
| Reepicheep |
My air tools never had enough "juice" to get that off anyway. I just got a 2' long 1/2" drive breaker bar, and stand on the thing and bounce a couple times. Pops both those nuts right off. I don't have a torque wrench that goes high enough for that crank nut either (125 foot pounds or something?). So I just stand on my breaker bar a little over 6 inches away from the bolt. Given my weight, thats about 125 foot pounds of torque. (and getting tighter by the day ) |
