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Drfudd
| Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 04:25 pm: |
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This one is simple but I'm gonna post it since I have the pictures. 1. First level the bike and check the fluid levels, first on the handle bars.
![front brake check](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/274912.jpg) You can see that its level and there is a small bubble at the top of the window, this is normal, if you need to add any just unscrew the two tops screws and add a little dot 4 brake fluid and check all the fittings for leaks. Do this when the bike is level and upright, if not you'll leak dot 4 fluid all over the place. 2. do the same for the rear brake resevoir, mine is on the right side, under the seat.
![rear brake master](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/274913.jpg) this one is easier than the front. 3. check out the brake pads!
![front pad](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/274914.jpg)
![rear brake pads](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/274915.jpg) Looking at the pics I need to use my rear brake more, but neither pads need replacing at this time. |
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Skri
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 06:40 pm: |
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Hi I have been searching the forum to see if there was an answer to my current question of brake judder. I have an 05 model year Firebolt xb12R I had been worried that I had a warped front rotor - but reading the posts see that this may not be the case. Below a picture - be interested on what folks recommend as a fix.
skri |
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Terrys1980
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 08:40 pm: |
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The brake pads leave deposits causing the pulsing. There are a couple ways to remove them. You can scrub the heck out of it with a scotch-brite pad or buy a rotor hone that can be used on a cordless drill. If you plan on removing the front rotor consider replacing the mounting hardware. |
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Aptbldr
| Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 08:54 pm: |
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Manually clean rotor faces, edges, holes; plus pad contact surfaces; both are contaminated. An XB quirk; mine did it, too. Changed brake pads (Lyndall). Practicing at not holding-at-stop using warm-hot brake(s). So far, so good. Looks like some grooves in rotor/pad, too. I accept uniform grooves: grinding rotor removes steel/mass, diminishing heat capacity. |
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Skri
| Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 03:23 pm: |
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Hi Aptbldr, Many thanks for prompt advice. I am stuck in Houston due to the Icelandic volcano suspending flights back home to London, so think i will try and get some Lyndall pads whilst I am here. rgds, skri ps like the colour of your bike - snap mine looks just the same |
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Terrys1980
| Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 04:04 pm: |
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Aptbldr did you go with organic or sintered HH pads? |
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Skri
| Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 06:09 pm: |
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After speaking to Al at American Sportsbikes, I have decided to go for the #9060 Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar and not the sintered version. I'll let you know how they feel after I fit them (could be several weeks). Fade has not been an issue to date but deposits and brake judder / shudder have been a pain, so here’s hoping that I have made a good choice. Al was confident that the pads will clean up the rotors providing I bed in properly. I am fitting some sintered EBC HH pads to my RS Sprint so it will be interesting to compare the feel. |
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