| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
Saro: I believe that is the brand on Blake's M2. I will investigate. Do you have their website address? | ||
| H_Man |
Jmartz, here's the place for the telefix bars Go here. WOW!! Jonas if those pegs have shot up to $61 (USD) for a pair, then I'd better run, not walk, to the dealership and snag some spares. That price still seems too high. Loki! Where the hell have ya been man! I've been pinging you all winter and fwd-ing all sorts of jokes to your mailbox. I was beginning to wonder whether al quada or some other terrorist group had taken you. Ping me. H. | ||
| Jmartz |
I visited Telefix. As expected, the largest size they have for the "profi" is 42 mm, but they say on their website that they are working on 43 to 60 mm sizes. I emailed them, let's what happens. | ||
| Rick_A |
I think clip ons above the triples is too high. Wheelies are tougher with low bars...but take offs are much better. Mine work fine with the stock controls, too. Space is just at a premium and you have to do some re-routing. I had drag bars on my S1 for a short while, too...couldn't stand them! | ||
| Steveford |
For 54mm clip-ons with height adjustability, go to www.mgcycles.com and check out the Verlicchi swan necks. For a piece of trivia, Verlicchi makes the frame for the new XB9 series. | ||
| Mikej |
Steve, Is that the right address? I got "We can't find "www.mgcycles.com"" from my browser, could just be localized on my end. | ||
| Steveford |
Sorry, it's www.mgcycle.com, not mgcycles. Real good place for Moto Guzzi parts and tell them I said hello. | ||
| Loki |
H, been hiding out! Should have a good echo within the next week. Getting tired of living a slugs life in a motel. loki | ||
| Buell_Brener |
How are the ergonomics of the new buells compared to the old buells for someone six feet and middle aged? Would anyony care to comment from experience. | ||
| Steveford |
The new Lightning is just about perfect as is; the Firebolt could stand the footpegs from the Lightning and different clip ons. I'm waiting for more Verlicchi swan necks to come in so at MG Cycles (www.mgcycle.com) to put on my Firebolt. This will probably also mean changing all of the cables to those of the Lightning as well. With the new bikes you sit IN the bike as opposed to ON the bike. | ||
| Tripper |
Put the 9S footpegs on the 9r and it's about perfect at speed. In town the neck has a hard time twisting like it should. Havn't driven the 9S but the bars seem too close. 6'1 230lbs nearing 50 98 S1 pilot | ||
| Macwatson |
Hi talking of shifters i have a 99 M2 buell of which now changes like a dream due to changing the bushs for a neddle roller bearing. after changing the buell plastic bushs to ASB bronze bushs this made changing much better but the bushs didn't last very long. so i looked into bearings You can buy a standard Neddle roller bearing 16mm ID 22mmOD buy 12mm wide drill and ream out the standard shifter and push in the bearing.You need to made two new side washers to take up the play and thats it. This works great as you don't have the friction of the bushs the shifts are real smooth. steve w | ||
| Bomber |
Mac . . . got a source for the bearings, do ya? | ||
| Jmartz |
Steve: I would appreciate some pictures if you could. | ||
| Rick_A |
Cool idea! What's a good place to find bearings? I think a sealed ball bearing could work great, too. | ||
| H_Man |
Yo fellow Buellers, I too was wondering about a place for the needle-roller bearing. I've located it at McMaster-Carr (though I'm sure other places will have it as well). The question now is whether to go with the "open" bearing (bearing are "exposed for easy cleaning" ) or the "double-sealed bearing (bearing has a seal on both sides "for better protection against dust and dirt" ). I've heard others rave about the brass bushing from ASB. And I wondered about the softness of brass to hold up. This is a great idea. I'll order tonight if I can only make up my mind about open or dbl-sealed. H-man Loki. You still out there man? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I had the bronze ASB bushings on my 2K M2. I rode with them for about 8 months, huge difference from stock. I then switched to the new style shifter. BuellieDan needed a shifter part a while back so he still using the same bronze bushings. Keep in mind that bronze is much harder than brass. The bronze is MUCH harder than the stock plastic bushings. The needle bearings sound interesting. I may check into it for the new style shifter. Great,, just what I need, something else to putz around with! Brad | ||
| H_Man |
Good catch Brad. For some reason I had the mistaken idea in my head the ASB bushing was brass. It's bronze. Steve W even wrote as much in his post. What can I say, my skull is thick.  I went ahead and ordered the open, standard needle-roller bearing. The width on that one matched the 12mm Steve noted for reaming the shifter. I'll let you all know how it goes. Once the weather allows me to riding again that is. H-man | ||
| H_Man |
Yo Steve. A little help here please. I'm just a simple kinda guy. When I look at the diagram for the 2000 M2's shifter assembly and picture replacing the bushing with the needle-roller bearing, I can't picture what is to be bored out to 12mm to accommodate the roller bearing. Was 12mm a mistake? Did you mean to type 22mm (the OD size)? I'm racking my brain I have trying to figure this out. As I see it, if I orient the bearing to fit into a place that's 12mm, the ID hole will be blocked. Pls post a pic or let us know if the roller bearing is to replace the std. bushing and you meant to type 22mm for the drill bit size. H-man | ||
| Loki |
H, Still out here in lala land. Getting rather warm around here too. Loki | ||
| H_Man |
Hmmm... Loki, are you what one might call an "embeded" civilian right now? Unless things get hot in N. Korea while things are going on in Afganistan and Iraq, I don't anticipate they'll be calling upon me. Uh oh, I'd better get on topic. The needle roller bearings that I ordered from McMaster arrived this morning. Like, WOW! I just placed the order Thursday afternoon. Still no post from Steve providing greater detail on using this thing. I'll just amble out to the garage and see what I can figure our myself [God! what a dangerous thought]. Sears and one other hardware store that I'd checked didn't carry metric drill bits. A 12mm bit would be roughly equivalent to 9/16". A 22mm bit would be a monster hole boring bit of approx. 7/8". Is all this right? Back in a bit with my findings. | ||
| H_Man |
Hi there fellow Buellers! Well, I'm back from the hospital. Nothing serious, just be careful using a 1/2" drill. That puppy packs a LOT of torque. Just kidding about the hospital part. I don't own a dig. camera and I'm out of polaroid film so I can't shoot a pic and scan it. You'll just have to depend on my descriptions. You'll want a 7/8" drill bit (which is equivalent to a 22mm not a 12mm drill bit. It is the shift lever (p/n 33823-99YA for the '00 M2 anyway) that is to be bored out. I definitely had some problems with this. I has a 7/8" hole drill bit, but that was impossible to keep centered. Luckily, my neighbor who has all sorts of handyman toys had a 7/8" solid drill bit and a 1/2" drill to use it with. It was a bit funny to watch my first few attempts at boring out the hole (where the footpeg goes), but I eventually did it and smoothed the rough edges with a dremel. The roller-bearing had to be pounded into the hole (didn't take too much effort) which is a good thing. But then the foot peg wouldn't readily fit in the roller-bearing. I hammered (using a plastic head hammer) the peg into the roller-bearing, then re-pounded the bearing into the shift lever. All looks good. It seems to function real smoothly. I have a couple other parts of the bike disassembled so I can't give a ride report yet. I'll pass those words along later. Peace, H-man | ||
| Macwatson |
Needle Roller Shifter Hi Guys Sorry the computers been playing up The Bearing Is A Torrington/INA-HK1612 This is a international part number I have been told.Also H-man is correct I used a 7/8 drill then pushed the bearing in to the shift lever by pressing it in with a vice this makes sure it goes in square. Also the buell foot peg size is 5/8 which is 4 thou larger than 16mm so I machined a couple of thou off it.But as H-man says it wants to be a tight fit.So it depends on how accurate you drill out the shifter hole wither or not the foot peg may need machining. Hopes this extra info helps regards Steve W | ||
| H_Man |
Oh yeah. Just one more thing if you don't mind in my Peter Faulk as "Columbo" voice. While this may seem like a "duh, no kidding" thing to some.... Don't forget to put some white lithium grease or some other water-resistant lube inside the needle bearings before you put the footpeg in it. If you have white lithium spray, then I guess you could do it after inserting the footpeg. It'll also make periodic PM real easy. H-man "The road to enlightenment is not a straightaway" | ||
| Blake |
Better yet, use a sealed bearing. And one note for those unfamiliar with bearing installation... If you need to "pound" or "press" or even "tap" a bearing into place, be absolutely certain that you only apply pressure to the race that is being installed. Like, if you are pounding the footpeg into the inner race, be certain the inner race is supported. When installing the bearing into the shifter lever, be sure to only tap on the outer race. Doing otherwise will trash the bearing. We really shouldn't ever "pound" on any bearing unless using the proper mating tool. | ||
| H_Man |
Blake, I coulda used that little bit of advise when I was buying the bearing. I wasn't sure among the open, single-sealed and dbl-sealed bearings. I selected the open because it matched the dimensions in Steve's initial post to start this thread. I didn't know about tapping only on the outer race nor using a circular tool to direct the impact just to the outer race. I think I was careful \) H-man | ||
| Loki |
H, See it aint so hard to attempt to break things now is it. A little confidence can go a long way. Good to see that you are stepping up..... loki | ||
| Henrik |
Jmartz: I just received prototypes from Cycle Cat yesterday. Veeery nice stuff. The adjustments available in bar angle: droop, pull back etc. are very well made. The bars themselves are machined from solid stock, not just cut from tubing. All in all very solid feel. I think that their side-mount riser clamps may fit the tube frame bikes. Seems like the riser would *just* clear the top triple, and since the rise is on the side, the fork tube pinch bolt is not in the way. I'll be testing out the different risers on the S2 this weekend, and will keep you posted. Henrik | ||
| Redstripe |
Would any of You guys know if the chrome gearshift and brake pedals of an s1 will fit my x1? And any idea of the costs involved? Thanks, Jilles. | ||
| Henrik |
7/8" Bars on S2: Well, I have started the process: - it looks like the Cycle Cat side mount clip-on risers will be a good fit. The bars end up a bit lower than stock S2T bars, but I think they will be comfortable enough for longer distance. - the Cycle Cat front mount risers will not fit, even if flipped around backwards. - the integrated brake fluid reservoir will not clear the riser. With 10 1/2" bars in the side mount, a remote reservoir front master cylinder will *just* fit. But not with much adjustment up or down for the brake perch/lever. - connecting new style Buell switch gear to old (HD) style S2 connections will prove to be a challenge. The turn signals alone (S2 has self cancelling turn signals and R/L indicator switches) may be tough. I don't know if the S2 turn signal minder will respond well to the left side only indicator switch from later switch gear. - the other electrics look similar enough, that it ought to work ... (famous last words). Has anyone tried this? Is anyone familiar enough with the two wiring set-ups to venture a guess as to successful outcome? More later Henrik Btw. I'm fairly certain that the Cycle Cat side mount risers will fit later model tube framers. the riser is far enough out from the clamp that is will clear the top triple. |
