| Author | Message | ||
     Ryan_M2 |
After doing some work on my 2000 M2, suddenly the indicator lamps for both turn signals and the high beams do not work. The other indicators (Neutral and Oil Pressure), turn signals, high beams, and all other lights are still working. The only things I have done to the bike recently was to install the tach kit and the updated exhaust bracket. Any ideas if this is likely anything more than three bulbs that burned out at the same time? And do these bulbs pull out from the front like the above thread discusses for the S2 indicator lamps? Also, H-D has Deutsch connectors available and I'm waiting on some connectors so that I can install the power filter described by Bill inline with the sensor without cutting up the sensor wiring. I should have those parts by the end of the week. Thanks, Ryan | ||
| 99x1 |
"suddenly the indicator lamps for both turn signals and the high beams do not work." The indicator lamps and high beam use the same ground wire out of the bezel, while the neutral and oil use a different ground connection. Maybe the pin got pushed back in the connector? Good Luck; John | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
Thanks for the info John, I'll pull off the fuel tank and check out the connector tomorrow. Three bulbs failing at once seemed like too much of a coincidence so it probably is something that happened to the ground pin when I installed the tach kit. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Ryan, Can you post the part numbers for the Deutsch connectors? I need to pick up a couple myself. Brad | ||
| Rick_A |
After paying $13 for a front brake light switch... I tried cleaning the old one out with contact cleaner to no avail...a squirt of WD40 and she works like new. My rear turn signal lights are getting a ton of corrosion, too. One has enough resistance that it doesn't work. Having to keep her outdoors is rough on 'er. Just a taste of things to come, no doubt. | ||
| Hans |
Things you want to know about those Deutsch connectors: http://ad.bildbolaget.com/produktbilder/pdf/DT_katalogen.pdf Hans | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
H-D part numbers for the three pin Deutsch connectors: Pin Housing 72103-94BK (from 00 M2 Repair Manual page 7-58) or 72163-94BK (From 00-01 M2 parts book) Socket Housing 72113-94BK (from 00 M2 Repair Manual page 7-58). The repair manual actually lists those two part numbers in a section where it describes how to make a test harness for using the HD-41354 Speedometer Tester tool. Plus you will still need pins, sockets, and wedge locks (aka secondary locks). For the pin housing, the pins are 72190-94 and the secondary lock is 72143-94. I don't yet know what the socket p/n's are yet or the secondary lock p/n for the socket housing yet either. I should have those by Thursday. To do what I am planning on doing for putting the power filter inline with the speed sensor, I don't need a new pin housing as the housing and attached wiring from my previous speed sensor will work very nicely. I'll take a few pics when I get everything done and post them along with all of the other part numbers when I'm finished. | ||
| Bomber |
btw . . .complete Deutsch connectors available from Jeg's (pins, blocks, wedges, the whole 9 yards) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
John, Looks like I better study my Jegs catalog a bit closer! Thanks! Brad | ||
| Bomber |
you're very welcome . . . .. . good folks, fast service, good prices . . . .the connectors are under Ignition, I believe | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
When I looked at the Jeg's online catalog a while back, I don't think I saw the three pin connectors, but they had a bunch of other sizes. I think they were listed as MSD parts so the ignition section would probably be correct. If they do have the three pin connectors, I'd appreciate knowing the p/n's as they'd probably be a little quicker than my local dealership. I didn't get a chance to investigate why some of my indicator lights weren't working yet (it was too nice out today to spend time in the garage when I could be riding), but the left turn signal indicator started working again, and was soon, but not immediately followed by the right turn signal indicator coming back to life. The high beam indicator still isn't working though. | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey, My speedometer stopped working yesterday, just going down the road , looked down and realized the bike thought it was going much slower than it actually was. The odometer is still lit and I can switch between trip and odo. I'm guessing sensor? Is it tough to replace? Its a 2001 X1 w/11258 miles (and holding  ) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Matt, Welcome to the blown sensor club. They are quite easy to replace, a couple of tie wraps and one hold down bolt. Remove the bolt and just pull it out. The new sensor has a shorter lead than the factory installed unit so youmay have to reroute the pigtail coming from the wiring harness. Read back through the KV archives and build the voltage regulator before installing he new sensor. Good luck and welcome to the club! BTW, no tight tie wraps on the new sensor, factory folks insist this is one of the failure methods. Brad | ||
| Mbsween |
Dammit Brad, I'm a mechanical engineer not an electrician..... although I quit engineering awhile ago, I work in your field now. Hopefully you're old enough to get the reference Just wondering, mine was fine for 11000 miles. I recently got an electric vest (aerostitch). The hookup is a direct to battery with an SAE type plug (like a battery tender). I wasn't using the vest when the speedo went, but I was wondering about leaving that SAE connector out in the open, if that might cause something bad to happen on the electrical side of the house. Thanks for the info, looks like its time to fire up the soldering iron | ||
| Reepicheep |
I don't think the open connector would cause any issues, so long as it has not shorted out somehow. Even then, I would expect it to just blow a fuse (it IS fused, right!?!?) without hurting anything else. It would not be an unusually inductive load, so I don't think it would create too much of a voltage spike when the fuse blew. You were just lucky for 11k miles  | ||
| Mbsween |
Yeah, I'm lucky that way, the speedo quit, now the rear shock is leaking. Damn, good to have the extended warranty. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Matt, I just picked up my Cyclone from the dealer last night after having my shock replaced. I had talked to Buell customer service, they said they would good will the shock no problem. $100 fee and out the door. When I pulled out the checkbook last night, I was informed the price had changed... NO CHARGE!!!!!! They did it under a recall somehow. Not sure how they did it but I'm certainly not complaining. St. Paul HD/Buell came through big time. thanks guys!!! Now to get the weather to warm back up.... Brad | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
More Deutsch Connector part numbers: In addition to those I listed above, here are the other ones needed for use with the three pin socket housing (72113-94BK - $2). Secondary Lock - 72153-94 - $0.10 Sockets - 72191-94 - $0.55 each, 3 needed I now have the filter for the speedo sensor all made up (plugged in between the harness and the sensor), and when it isn't raining I'll take the bike out for a test ride. | ||
| Mbsween |
Bluzm2, Congrats on the repair, nothing like getting the bike back and not paying. That's great to hear the dealer is treating you well. Matt | ||
| Mrossi |
Hi everybody, I took my '00 X1 to the dealer to install the race ECM and when they tested the bike it stopped, the battery was flat and wouldn't recharge, they tried a new battery and also hooked up an Electra Glide battery but that was flat too in a short while, they swapped the voltage regulator but that didn't seem to solve the problem. Any suggestion anybody ? Thanks in advance M. Rossi | ||
| Henrik |
MRossi I'm really not good at the electrical stuff, but AFAIK the three parts in your equation is the battery, the voltage regulator and the stator. Your stator may be shot?? You can use the plug off an old voltage regulator (yours if it's shot for sure) with some of the wiring left on to test if the stator outputs what it should. Henrik | ||
| Tripper |
If the stator shorted you can easily identify it by the horrible smell of burnt primary oil. Worse than a skunk spray. | ||
| Jmartz |
Remedy: Run the motor at 2K rpm and with a voltmeter measure the AC output of the stator at the junction to the regulator. This should be in the vicinity of 50 VAC. If this checks out replace the regulator. If not replace the stator and then verify the charging voltage needs to be around 13 - 15 VDC. You have already deemed the battery to be Ok (maybe). | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Had a problem yesteryday with my M2. When I left home for work in the AM, the motor barely turned over but started anyway. I figured it was the battery as it is the original unit in a 2K bike. It really doesn't owe me anything time wise as 2-3 years is about all you can expect. I left work early to go to a seminar, I had to bump start to get going. Again, it fired right off no problem. When in route to the seminar, the speedo started to bounce around like it does when a speedo sensor fails. Next I notice the turn signals are blinking slow. Hmmm, not looking too good for my ride home after the seminar. When it as time to head home, I pulled the headlight bezel and unplugged the headlight to minimize drain for the ride home. I fully expected to get part way and die on the side of the road. Just want to get closer to home so whoever came to get me didn't have to drive too far. As luck would have it, I was able to make it all the way home. Pulling into the driveway "The Beast" sounded pretty bad. Lots of missfiring etc. Out came the volt meter, only about 7.6 volts at the battery. Not unexpected really. I hooked up the charger for an hour and it fired right up. Battery still indicate only about 10.9 volts with the motor running. Next suspect, voltage regulator. Just for grins I checked resistance from the reg to ground. It was less than 2 ohms. Hmmm, not a grounding problem.. As per standard trouble shooting practice, check the easy stuff first. Last week my rear shock was replaced under warranty due to a nasty leak. If you recall, the wiring harness runs along the shock resevoir line. Right in that area is 2 connectors, one for the AC coming from the alternator to the regulator, the other is the positive lead from the regulator that feeds the battery and the rest of the bike. Guess which lead was disconnected. Didn't even need to check alternator output... The positive lead is a single bullet connector. It had been knocked loose during the shock replacement. A little bit of vibration cause it to come completely disconnected. 3 tie wraps later the problem was fixed. Moral of the story, sometimes things aren't as bad as they seem. When stuff goes wrong, think back to the last thing that was changed and look for an association. Most important in this case. Fix problem so it won't happen again. One tie wrap behind each bullet connector and one looped between them to hold the connection together. No more problem. I love the easy ones.... Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
Brad... great news. One question though, how accurate is your meter? 2 Ohms to ground sounds like a lousy connection to me, you might want to add a strap to it and get it closer to some fraction of an ohm. That being said, some cheap meters will read 2 ohms even if you touch the probes to each other, so it may not be a big deal. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Legit question Bill. I have a pretty decent meter, it's not my bench Fluke but better than a Radio Shack cheapie. Touching the probes gets about .7-1.2 ohms depending on how hard you press. (Crappy leads, need to get some Softies..) Probing from one side of the heat sink to the other gets you about 1.8 or so. When running, I get a nice clean 14.4-6 to the battery. Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thats better. With my carefully prepped surfaces and extra grounding strap (runs from the top of the regulator bolts and gets smashed in between the regulator and bare metal on the mount) I get an extra .3 ohms (fluke 77 handheld that I bought with my first paycheck as a co-op some 15 years ago ). | ||
| Bomber |
I guess my old simpson (you know, with the tubes in it) ain't quite so trick anymore, is it? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've got a volt meter down in the basement that was last calibrated in 1917. It's beautiful. Never tried to see if it can still measure a voltage... but I bet it could. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bomber, Hang on to that old Simpson, it's probably got a higher input impedance than some of the current model cheap digital and analog type devices. Plus they are tougher than hell. Wrong input setting range? No problem, bring it on!! Besides, it has a very high "cool" factor. Bill, That 1917 model sounds very neat. Can you post a picture? Does it have the neat box jointed oak wood case and the cloth wrapped leads? |
