| Author | Message | ||
     David_e |
Trying to adjust clutch. i know how to do the cable adjustment but I took a look at the clutch hub just behind the inspection cover....lock nut and adjuster are visable but how do you adjust it? The nut is counter sunk so I can't get a socket on it. What am I doing wrong? | ||
| Firemanjim |
David,on the tubers there is a screw in the middle of the clutch adjustment(under the spring and locknut) and after you undo the adjuster on the cable itself you run screw in CCW until it just contacts then back off 1/4 turn.Then use cable adjustment to get lever where you want it. Might be different on the XB types. Look at the S-1 manual here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1996-1997_Service/BU1b.pdf | ||
| Jackbequick |
I think the adjustment on the Uly's is about the same as for the tubers. I defer to anyone that knows better. First back off the cable length adjuster in the middle of the cable to make the lever floppy at the bar. When you removed the cover, there should have been a spring and hex shaped locking nut that are attached to each other (sort of loosely, they sometimes can get separated when you open the cover). Pull the spring and nut straight out. The locking nut has a rectangular hole in it and it fits over flats ground on the adjusting screw to keep it from turning. With the locking nut removed there is headless screw with a slot in the end visible. That is the adjusting screw. The screw is mounted so it spins in a bearing, it does not unscrew and come out when turned, it simply turns freely in place. Threaded onto the adjusting screw is the adjusting nut. Turning the adjusting screw clockwise (CW) will cause the adjusting nut to back out of the recess in the clutch. Turn the screw CW 2-3 turns to back the adjusting nut off and make sure it is not in contact with the bottom of the recess. Turning the adjusting screw counter clockwise (CCW) will cause the adjusting nut to go back the the bottom of the recess in the clutch. The contact when it gets to the bottom will be lightly felt. Turn the screwdriver with your fingertips and stop as soon as you feel the adjusting nut make contact. With a little more turning force, the screw will continue to turn but you do not want to do that because it will start to disengage the clutch. That is a bad thing. And if you leave it that way, it will place an abnormal load on the bearing that the adjusting screw rotates in. Another bad thing. Just find the point of light contact when the adjusting nut hits the bottom of the recess and stop. Then turn the adjusting screw 1/8th turn CW to lightly relieve the contact. That is the critical adjustment. Align the rectangular hole in the locking nut with the flats on the screw and slide it into the hex recess. If necessary, turn the screw a tiny bit further CW to let the locking nut to align with and slide into the hex recess. Adjust the lever at the bar by lengthening the cable until the is no slack at the lever. Pull and release the lever several times to set the clutch components. Then adjust the clutch cable length. Firmly grip the metal ferrule on the end of the clutch cable sheath with your fingers where it enters the clutch lever perch. You want a 1/16" gap between the ferrule shoulder and the perch. When you can just fit a quarter in the gap it is about right. Grip the sheath firmly at the metal ferrule and pull it away as hard as you can with your fingers to make the adjustment. A slight readjustment may be needed with the engine and driveline fully warmed up, turning the long hex cable length adjuster one or two flats more (1/2" and 9/16" open end wrenches needed for adjustment). I usually did the final adjustment during a test ride. The adjusting screw adjustment can be troublesome if you don't make sure the lever is floppy at the bar to take all the pulling load off of the clutch actuator when you make the adjustment. If the adjusting screw adjustment is not done right, you may have to misadjust the cable length to eliminate pulling at rest and excessive gear clash when selecting low from a stop. And then the point where the clutch starts pulling will be off, shifting may suffer, bada bada bada.. Jack | ||
| David_e |
Thanks Jack and F/M Jim I appreciate the help. | ||
| Rydog60236 |
I did this to my blast about 150 miles ago. Now it needs it again. Any idea why? | ||
| Two_seasons |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/BU1b.pdf Page 8 of 26. Follow it to a T. Also, only use 28 fluid ounces, not 32 if you drain/refill. And, one more thing, use HD Formula+ in the primary. Clutch hooks up better than other oil. |
