| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Denso Irridium # IX27B They say to gap at .35 - mfg at .40 which should I use or cut to half the diff.? They -Hall's - put the first one in but I'm doing the rest - Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey - A little help please - I know several of you are running the Iridiun plug - please. Just don't want to blow her up a second time(at least so soon - lol) Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
This pretty well proves my post stated in xb9s section - I'm chill though - but if I were you all I'd think about the ramifications of your inaction and how it reflects on this Board. That should be electric enough -lol- Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Blake |
EZ, I don't know. Apparently no one else does either. That happens here from time to time. Doesn't mean we are ignoring you. Personally I'd use the motorcycle manufacturer's recommendation. What does Hal's say? | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks Blake - I was just pointing out that it can be a bit difficult to get an answer here - not that I was being ignored - my wife would be glad to give you lessons in that one - lol - Hal's used the stock configuration - its just that Denso people recomend the other. Of course I'll go with the Factory - its just I wondered if I was missing something. With the Blast every last ounce of power counts - lol - thanks again - just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Rick_A |
Anyone know why the Buell Pro Series ignition wires are no longer available? Would Sportster wires work? | ||
| Rick_A |
I found some aftermarket wires...a bit pricey but better than nothing. | ||
| Ezblast |
Denso Iridium IX27B - leave gap at.035 per instructions from Nallin. They work great and he highly recomends them. Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Buellhowser |
Help needed! '99 S3 left me stranded over the weekend. Failure mode: Exited freeway, stopped at red light, engine died; bike was running quite well beforehand. All electrical (lights, etc) seem to function normally. Every 10 times the starter is activated, bike will start for 5 seconds, then die. Cracked open fuel cap to vent any pressure, no change. Shorted side stand switch, no change. Shorted clutch safety switch, no change. Trucked bike home. Installed new battery (on workbench waiting), no change. Plugged in stock ECM, no change. Reinstalled race ECM. Activated starter a dozen times, bike starts, observed bike losing spark after running for 5 seconds. Observed trouble code "33" (fuel pump) stored in ECM; doesn't explain lack of spark! Wiggle tested virtually all connector housings, no change. Resistance values for coil seem to be within spec. Fuel pump audible when ignition turned on, but I am unable to pressure test. So, what would cause a fuel pump trouble code AND kill the spark?? I'm leaning towards either the ignition switch or intermittent in wire harness. The parking light position hasn't worked in 3 years, but bike has always worked when in "on" position. ANY IDEAS? I'm scheduling an appt. with Modesto this week, warranty expires NEXT MONTH! Thanks in advance. | ||
| 99x1 |
"parking light position hasn't worked in 3 years, but bike has always worked when in "on" position." The ignition switch is easy to bypass - disconnect it at the plug, and using 1/4" push-on terminals/wire - short the three wires together (I carry this taped to the underside of my seat). The main circuit breaker may also be opening (it is a thermal breaker) after it is on for a while. Good Luck... John  | ||
| 99x1 |
"So, what would cause a fuel pump trouble code AND kill the spark??" Bank angle sensor? If the bike tips over more then 55 degs, it shuts off fuel pump and ignition.... John | ||
| Buellhowser |
Thanks for your input 99X1. Decided I've donated enough of my time to this, and took it to the dealer today. May as well take advantage of the warranty, all 30 days that are left of it! I'll post the solution in case anyone else runs into a problem similar to this. | ||
| Buellhowser |
Turned out to be the cam position sensor. Not sure if there is a trouble code for this or not, and it doesn't explain the fuel pump trouble code. In any case, that's why it wouldn't run. Hope this helps someone out someday. | ||
| Sparky |
Cam Position sensor failure is attributed to cam sync failure code 56 in the Firebolt SM. I don't know if this code is applicable to the 99 S3. SM sez, "The code occurs ... if the ECM receives an extra, missing or unexpected signal from the cam position sensor and the bike may continue to run, not run normally or stop running." Seems like it could signal the fuel pump to stop, causing the code 33 for fuel pump. Kudos to Modesto Buell! Sparky | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have a timing setting question.... I have a 2000 M2, and just finished replacing the oil pump gear and a bad #4 cam, which of course required taking the timing plate apart. I am reassembling now. I think this bike has always been a little off on timing. Even with good gas, and a 200 main and 45 low speed jet, I still get occasional pinging on hard acceleration. I suspect this is caused by the timing being just a shade off (and probably by carbon deposits on my engine from running rich for so long, but I don't know what I can do about that now). Anyway, on reassembly, I put the plate exactly back where it was when I took it apart. I did not bother to do the static timing procedure called for in the manual, and want to jump straight to the dynamic timing. So my question is am I better off with the timing light and removed bolt over the timing marks on the flywheel and just setting it? Or should I forgo the timing light, and just warm up the bike and drive it around and mess with the plate until I feel / hear the engine running well and not pinging? I am open to either approach. Or should I just leave it alone until I get to a dyno, and do it correctly then? I read through the manual and did not see a value for timing, are there two marks on the crank, one for each cylinder, and I just throw the light on either plug? Or am I missing something, and there is supposed to be some sort of setting for the timing gun? I also seem to recall Aaron saying you can run the engine with the plug out and not putting in the Harley clear plug... it will make a little mess but it will function long enough to set the timing. Am I recalling correctly? Thanks everyone, Bill | ||
| Road_Thing |
"...a little mess..." Yup, and the surface of the sun is "a little warm," too! r-t | ||
| S2pengy |
1995 S2 Ignition Unit Mod First a disclaimer, just because it worked for me I will not guarantee anything period.. Also read through all of this before attempting anything.... The original 1995 S2 ignition unit is pretty anemic compared to the 1995 Calif. or 96 units, the difference being that the 95 is a seven pin unit with a M curve (#32433-91A), the 96 unit is a 8 pin unit (only 7 sockets are used) and is a Q curve (32465-95A [or N0306.9 also know as the BHP4 used in the later tube framed Buells])... ******Note; The wiring color coding is the same for the 7 & 8 pin ignition units. This mod also helps eliminate some of the ping in these bikes and increases acceleration without the race or screaming chicken (eagle) modules that top at about 6800 RPM.. This mod appears to increase your available RPMs by making the red line a little higher but has the automatic retard and redline feature at about 6250 RPM... The Q curve units are becoming quite easy to find for reasonable money due to so many people going to the race or screaming eagle modules so the question became how to adapt the later unit to my earlier wiring harness... I have heard that adapters were available but the only ones that I have been able to locate were backwards for my needs i.e. putting an 7 pin unit on a 8 pin bike harness... I then looked into changing the connector on the bike wiring harness while this would provide me with a better connector none of the local hardley shops had the parts needed (7 male pins [they are a different size OD ] and the deutsche connector pieces). The option I was left with was changing the female pins on the ignition unit which turned out to be quite easy.... You will need 7 female pins Harley part number 74539-77A, I would recommend getting a couple extras. 1. First remove the tank cover and aft body fairing. Disconnect the tail wiring harness.. If factory saddlebags are installed watch for the spacer washers. 2. I recommend disconnecting the battery... 3. Remove the old 7 pin ignition unit and unplug the connector from the body wiring harness... 4. Note which wire color goes in each hole and write it down. 5. Using a metal pick push all the female pins back out of the connector. 6. Dissemble the deutsche connector; A. Remove the thin orange accordion seal. B. Pry where the accordion seal was and pull the orange connector away from the body. C. The pins can now be removed from the body by releasing the clips. D. Slid the pins through the orange seal block. 7. Cut the old female terminals off as close as possible and strip the wires for the new connectors.. HD part number 74539-77A.. There are two sets of tangs to bend over on these terminals, one crimps on the stripped wire the other holds the wire insulation... 8. Now install the female pins in the 7 pin connector making sure to get the correct color wire in each slot, check the bike wiring harness if in doubt... Pushing the pins in can be a bit of a bitch but you want the terminals flush in the connector where it mates up with the male pins...A small straight slot screwdriver works well for this but be careful. 9. Install the new ignition unit on the bike and plug in the connector to the body harness... 10. Hook up the battery. 11. Install the aft body fairing, watch out for the tail wiring harness routing (don't forget the saddlebag spacers if installed)... 12. Install the fuel tank fairing (turtle shell). 13. No you are not done yet... The bike has to be retimed for the new ignition unit using the 96 specs to match the ignition unit.. Instead of the single dot in the center of the hole as viewed with a timing light at 1650-1950 rpm with the VOES switch hooked up you now use the double dots in the center of the hole at 950-1050 rpm with the VOES switch hooked up.... Cost... $5.00-$40.00 for the ignition units on ebay HD #32465-95A or Buell #N0306.9 also know as the BHP4 . $1.00 each for the connector pins HD # 74539-77A | ||
| Tigerm2 |
Hi, I have a '97 M2 Cyclone. Love it to death, but I've had a problem I'm not sure how to tackle. I'm losing the charge while I'm riding. I'll trickle charge the bike overnight, then go out riding and after just a couple of hours I'll take a break and shut the bike off. When I want to get going again and hit the starter button, all I get (if I'm lucky) is a clicking sound (sparks), the motor isn't turning over, and now it's time to push-start the thing. If I ride for longer clips at a time, my signals will no longer work and my headlight is so dim it's casting a shadow in the daytime. I plan to test some things with a volt meter, but I don't know where to start and I'm trying hard to avoid having to take the case off to repair whatever. Any advice is helpful. Thanks. -Tiger | ||
| Buelliedan |
Tiger, Sounds like either your voltage regulator or your stator has went bad. Voltage regulator is easy to fix, stator requires a bit more work. | ||
| Tigerm2 |
Buelliedan, Thanks for the feedback. Would you happen to know the location of the regulator and/or the stator on the bike? I guess a manual would be helpful. Maybe I should go buy one. :-) -Tiger | ||
| Buelliedan |
Tiger, The regulator is located at the very front lower engine case of your bike just behind the front wheel next to the exhaust pipe. Its a finned aluminum looking device. The stator is located inside your primary case and requires big sockets(1 7/8) to access it. | ||
| Blake |
Definitely get a service manual. | ||
| Tigerm2 |
Thanks all for your help. I'll let you know how it goes. -Tiger | ||
| Tigerm2 |
So, I found a website that has an S1 manual online. http://www.ukbeg.com/frameset.htm - click on Downloads, then select S1 from the drop down and click "Go to". There are several .pdf files and it's quite complete. -Tiger | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Tiger M2, yep it's complete. It used to be on the "old" Buell website. It's for the 96 S1 with appendix for the 97 model year. It is an essential download. But it's very thick when printed out! Regards Steve www.ukbeg.com steve@ukbeg.com | ||
| Pwest |
Question for ya. I am having the same problems as Buellhowser, bike runs fine then dies without warning. sometimes when hot sometimes wile worming up. Ive got new plugs, wires and coil but still the same thing. I was told about the cam position sensor which sounds like it could be the culprit. Is it something that needs to be replaced or just calibrated. any help is appreciated. PAT 02M2... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Pat... if you do pull the cam position sensor, check the oil pump drive gear while you are in there. Your profile does not say how many miles on the bike, but as it is a 2002 you are probably fine, but after 12k miles mine was worth replacing before it failed. You can inspect the sensor pretty easily as I recall, drill out the rivets and remove a couple screws (carefull, they are soft metal and it is easy to strip the heads). but to actually replace the sensor, I think you might have to pull the cam cover.... though it might be possible to get the wire worked through there with the deutsch connector removed, which would save a TON of work. Thinking back to it, it is probably possible, and definitely worth looking hard at, it would save you $40 or so in gaskets and a days work. Regardless, you will need a couple of special "Harley Rivets" to put the cover back on. You can ride it without these if you just tape off the holes temporarily to keep water out. There is not much to go wrong with it, it is a solid state device. It would be easy enough to clean off, and if if just came "unglued" and is flopping around in there it would be easy enough to notice, but I doubt that is the way they fail. If you do decide to replace it, and you do have to pull the cam cover, its a lot of work. You have to remove both rocker boxes to get the cam cover back on. If you go down this road, make sure the oil pump drive gear is in really good shape, it is only a $15 part and at that point you are only two bolts, one gasket, and two hose clamps from replacing it. Even if it only bought 5000 extra miles or so, I would probably replace it at that point. Bill | ||
| Jerbuell |
I've a X1-2K. I keep loosing 1 cyl (the front one). It often happens on high RPM. Have anyone had the same kind of problem? Where should I start to look for the solution to this problem? Thanks! | ||
| 99x1 |
" keep loosing 1 cyl (the front one)" IMHO, when you lose the cylinder, shut down, and remove the spark plug. Check if it is wet (ignition problem) or dry (fuel injection problem). Good luck; John | ||
| Joebuell |
Need some help. The X1 died on Sunday. Basically it just fizzled out. All electronics went dead. I jump started it and it ran like crap for about 1 mile then died again. After an hour sit the lights would come on but barely, and the starter definately wouldn't turn. CLICK< CLICK< CLICK< !!! I put a new battery in and tested the volts at the terminals. 12.7volts. Then I started the bike and tested at the same spot while running and got 12.55 volts. Now for the "sucky" part. I reved the motor to 3 grand while keeping the probes in place and got 12.5 - 12.6 volts. No real change. Question is: Shouldn't I see about 13.5 to 14 volts at the terminals while revving? And if so where should I start looking next? This is my first charging system problem on a motorcycle and the bike runs great right now. I just dont want to suck the battery down to nothing while 65 miles from home again. Thanks in advance... Joe |
