| Author | Message | ||
     Bads1 |
Bull you'll have everything in front of you it will all plug in. | ||
| Hootowl |
Roc, I had the same problem with mine. Passed all the tests, except the output test. My stator was shorted to itself, right where the lead wires enter the coil. A stator will run you about $125. | ||
| Hootowl |
Ryan, The sensor on the tubers is supplied with 10 volts. The sensor on the XBs is supplied with 5 volts. Same sensor. I built a 5 volt regulator out of $3 worth of parts from radio shack, and have had good luck so far. It has only been 4 months though, so too soon to tell. This is all in the KV, search for "filter" and "sensor" Jeff | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
I just spoke with one of the parts guys at Chicago H-D, and he said that the current part number for the speed sensor for my 2000 M2 is 74431-01A. Is this the updated part to replace 74431-01? Thanks, Ryan | ||
| Bull |
Thanks Bads1, I'll wait for the things to arrive and then we'll see about the "plug and pray" business.. with my luck, you never know where it ends :-) /Jonas | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ryan... do yourself a favor and add the filter Hoot describes. Plenty of info in the knowledge vault. I was able to find the 5v regulator he discusses there at some but not all Radio Shacks, but all of them should have the adjustable regulator. If you are not comfortable building the part, I will be happy to build it for you, just send me the sensor. I think they updated the part once, but I think that just added thicker wires. This solves one failure scenario (cable too tightly or with not enough free play) but not another very common scenario. The drop to 5 volt does seem to resolve it. Also (2kM2) make sure you have updated your front exhaust mount, replaced your primary chain tensioner, swap the low speed jet for a 45, and periodically inspect your oil pump drive gear (but don't rush to replace it unless you are pretty sure it is in bad shape, it is easy to check, but a lot of work to replace). Bill | ||
| Sarodude |
Does anyone have an affordable and easily implentable Hazard setup for a bike like the Blast? I assume it's switchgear and electricals are generally similar to all post S2 Buells. -Saro | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
I've got the new speed sensor on order, along with a tach kit. I'll definately take the advice on putting the filter in. I appreciate the offer to modify the speed sensor for me Bill, but I think I should be able to handle it with the directions I've seen in the KV. Since I purchased the bike used last fall with 4750 miles on it, how do I tell if it already has the updated front exhaust mount and primary chain tensioner? Probably no need to worry about the jet as the previous owner put on a White brothers exhaust and had the carb re-jetted. Then again it wouldn't hurt to have a look at what is in there someday. Ryan | ||
| Hootowl |
Ryan, The updated exhaust bracket looks like an inverted "Y" and the voltage regulator will be mounted with the fins horizontal. The only way (without a borescope) to check the primary tensioner is to pull the cover. It's worth your time. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Ryan... what hoot said (I sure say that a lot!). The primary tensioner has a metal backplate with a bolt connected through it, and a thick nylon (or something) shoe. The backplate generally splits on one side of the bolt, which then looses tension. It will eventually break apart completely, with big metal parts being loosed into your transmission, though I don't think anyone here has actually sustained damage from this, but there is no reason it could not. the problem is that the bolt is threaded into the case as well, and that while you can get to the primary chain without removing the primary cover, you cannot get to the primary shoe. It is therefore nearly impossible to tell that the backplate split. The only way you MIGHT be able to tell is if you are doing normal tension adjustments, and note that you suddenly had a MAJOR shift in the adjustment necessary for the primary chain tension. It might also be possible to manually load the primary chain through the inspection cover to a known load, and look at the deflection. I would imagine the split backplate would have a greater deflection at a fixed chain pressure then a good backplate. Actually, now that I really think it through, you could probably adjust the tension as per the manual, and look at the amount of the bolt that is sticking out the bottom of the case. I bet that the difference between a broken tensioner and a good tensioner is enough to be seen by eye, though there are a LOT of variables involved that could mess this up in theory. I practice though I bet it could work... Everybody go out and count then number of threads exposed beyond the nut on the tensioner sticking out the bottom of their engine, we can probably make some statistically reliable generalizations that might help. Another easy test is to shift gears  If it no longer shifts, and you are 50 miles from home, and you just heard a loud crunchy noise from the primary, you probably have the old shoe  But figuring all that out would be more work then just pulling the silly cover, which is not a bad job at all. And it would also only tell you that your tensioner *might* not be broken yet, not if it is the new style or old style, nor if it is about to break, or has broken but is still nice and captive and nice and snug, or if it has spit completely and left the shoe and the bolt is now resting against the back of the nylon piece. Bill "Finding really long winded ways to say 'Hoot is right' " | ||
| Hootowl |
That part is only $15, plus about $7 for the gasket. If you're careful, you won't have to replace the shift shaft seal, but as long as you're in there...Easier to replace it than to take it apart again. | ||
| Rick_A |
I saw something today I've never seen before and will likely never see again. This guy was testing an ignition circuit...put on the positive battery lead...then picks up the secondary ignition coil lead and places it on the negative battery terminal...turns the ignition key to on and BOOM! The side of the battery instantly burst throwing acid everywhere...luckily nobody was close. This guy stood there in shock with his mouth open for ten mins holding the coil lead. It was a very inappropriate response but I couldn't stop laughing. Nothing really got injured but the battery and his pride, luckily. | ||
| Road_Thing |
Sounds like a shorted coil to me...lucky nobody got hurt! I've seen three batteries explode in my years of messing with moto-toys, and I've been impressed by the force of each explosion. A word to the wise: the overflow tube on a lead-acid battery, when full of hydrogen gas, makes a dandy fuse. DO NOT strike an arc near one! Never mind how I know... r-t | ||
| Evomx |
After a few temporary fixes using contact cleaner, the front brake light switch on my '98 M2 has given up. I stopped at the dealer tonight and they couldn't find it in the parts book and said I'd have to get the entire front master cylinder... umm, no thanks. I did some searches and saw where several of you have had the switch fail, but no remedies. It looks like a part that might even be available at an electronics store. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks! evomx | ||
| Dave |
The parts breakdown may have it listed in the index under 'switches, handlebar'. For a '99 S3, it's on page 55/56 index 23, part # 71776-96Y. It looks to be the same part # as your M2. DAve | ||
| Evomx |
Dave, Thanks for the info!!! evomx | ||
| 99x1 |
"several of you have had the (front brake) switch fail, but no remedies" I haven't tried purchasing one yet, but it appears the switch is also used on some Kawasakis (Concours, ZX), and is also available from Emgo. Motorcycle salvage yards should have a couple of smashed Ninjas?  Kawasaki ZG1000  Emgo John | ||
| Rick_A |
I have this battery powered light for my Sigma speedometer. I got tired of the frequent battery replacements so I headed down to Radio Shack and got me a resistor. I drilled a small hole for my leads through the battery cover, soldered wires to the battery contacts, replaced the cover, put a dab of RTV on the hole, and hooked the thing up to the lead for my non-existent headlight position lamp. No more changing batteries!   | ||
| Rick_A |
Well, I had my 3rd tail light break today. What a hassle. The bosses for the lens broke and who knows where it went. My mighty LED bulb lost a row of lights, too. I thought it was a bit dimmer. So, instead of paying the ridiculous $35 for a new tail light I bought a sturdier, though similarly sized light at work with a metal backing plate for $5. It has a 3 month warranty. Hopefully this one survives. | ||
| 61bsaa10 |
I had three 15 amp ignition fuses blow on a ride this weekend before I finally loaded it up and took it into Santa Cruz, CA H-D/Buell. Anybody else out there have a similar problem with their new XB9S? Will post what I learn from the dealer. My bike is 2 months old with 600 miles. Ray Weber | ||
| Jdbuellx1 |
Evomx, Take your switch to your local Honda or Kaw shop and have them match one up with it, I got one for a honda for around $11.00. Beats paying $60 for the whole master cylinder!(ran into the same problem at my dealer) | ||
| Jdbuellx1 |
Does any one out there use one of those converters on there rear turn signals to make them running lights and brake lights? If so I was wondering what would be the best kind and if my load equalizer would cause any interference? | ||
| Rick_A |
Does anyone know of a heavy duty 1157 or 2057 bulb? With my new tail light I can't use a LED anymore 'cause the light is orientated sideways. I'm burning a bulb a day! | ||
| 99x1 |
The heavy duty version of the 1157 is the 198 (see Thumper). Maybe ask at an auto parts store for a heavy duty bulb, GE makes some (1157BP?). Check the voltage on your bike, (regulator faulty?), bulb life goes down very rapidly with increasing voltage. (IIRC, each volt above rated cuts life in half). Good luck; John | ||
| Rick_A |
It's not a voltage problem. I have billet rear isolator bushings that tend to break things on the tail. The tail light/signal bracket is also cracking and shaking things about. I don't have a problem with any other bulbs...and if I leave only the brighter stop light on it lasts. GE makes a few different grades but all I've seen are supposed to be extended life...not heavy duty. Thanks for the info...I'll see if I can find one. | ||
| Bomber |
Rick . . .try a truck store, or a truck stop, for that matter . . .. I've picked up a number of HD (oops, heady duty) bulbs over the years at places liike that | ||
| Mikej |
'95 S2 dash indicator light removal: Does anyone know if I can remove the individual lights from the indicator light bar assembly on a 1995 S2? I'm replacing the dash on the S2 and am down to the indicator lights. The service manual seems to indicate that I have to remove the individual wires from the main connector. But it looks to me like the individual bulbs should be able to come out of the carrier somehow. If not I'll have to go down to the boutique and get the H-D p/n HD-39621-27 connector barrel remover tool, unless the old Radio Shackle shop has something equivalent. Thanks. | ||
| Court |
>>>But it looks to me like the individual bulbs should be able to come out of the carrier somehow. The operative word is "somehow". I have done it and it's a bit of a hit and miss proposition. If I recall, I used some sort of a forcep type device, reached in and (this was 7 years ago and memory if fogged) if I recall it was a trick of getting things lined up going back in. I HATE non-funtioning instrument lights...is it anal retentive to change the ones in the cars annually? | ||
| Henrik |
S2 indicator lights: the whole housing with all the little lights needs to come out. The housing snaps into the dash, so you'll need to squeeze the housing so 2 tabs clear the dash. Then, in order to remove the individual bulb, you will need to remove the stick-on label on top of the housing, and pull the bulb out through the front of the housing. Of course, removing the label will likely bend it enough, that it will not stick flat to the housing anymore... To disconnect the individual wires, you can get a multi use pin tool. But if you look into the plug from the pin end, not the wiring end, you'll see each pin is held in place with a tab/tang, and if you press the tab back into the pin itself (any long, slim metal object will do), the pin can be pulled out of the plug. And looking at this long explanation I realize that you can probably just peel back the label, and pull the bulb leaving the housing in place ... Henrik (this explanation will likely make more sense when you have a look at the real thing ) | ||
| Mikej |
Yeah, I was looking at the real thing last night (or "this morning" since it was around 1am). Got everything apart except for the indicator light assembly. I recall from past experience that the barrel connector tabs on the pins don't have a long life when they get bent, but I may try the poke-the-tab bit if I don't like the tool price. Thanks Henrik and Court for the feedback. (ps, Henrik, see the S2 seat reply in the Parts Wanted section, but I probably need too much for it.) Note to self: find flood light for late night can't sleep garage endeavors.) |
