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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Wheels » Archive through October 03, 2005 » Wheel troubles « Previous Next »

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Rick_A
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2003 - 12:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It seems like my front wheel bearings are going away...big time. My inductive speedo sensor started reading erratically and the front rotor buttons started scraping on the protruding end of the bottom caliper mounting bolt on hard stops today. The only explanation I could come up with is the bearings. Just another problem to add to the long list. Lately my Buellin' luck has not been good...and in the mean time I have to ride this thing 'till I get the time and parts
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2003 - 02:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bearings are damn cheap. Please be damn careful riding it until you get them replaced.
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Rick_A
Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2003 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As a temporary measure I filed that bolt down so it doesn't protrude...now to find bearings and hope this shop finally gets me the work stand they promised. Hopefully I'll have 'er back in shape this weekend
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Rick_A
Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2003 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An update...it looks as though the bearings were not the problem. I jumped the gun a bit. Just before the scrapage problem I had a near violent highside+violent tank slapper at a moderate speed. I basically saved it...but apparently the fork tubes had enough lateral force on them to slide the right tube inward on the axle...cocking it ever so slightly, despite the pinch bolts being torqued to spec. I loosened 'em up and everything straightened out. My brakes started working much better, too...they got crappy after the little incident. The speedo pickup was erratic 'cause a wire frayed...and I'm buying wheel bearings anyway 'cause they are damn cheap.

So...the main thing is I need to figure out why I can powerslide controllably through right hand turns and not left!
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S2pengy
Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doing a tire change on my 1996 S2T and had a hell of a time getting the axle out..... When I finally got it out I found the axle and the spacer between the wheel bearings to be very badly corroded... I feel this is because of the holes in the spokes which is common to the Marchesini and Castalloy wheels... The spokes are hollow and open to the axle area so any moisture that gets into the spokes is trapped and can start a problem... My 1995 S2 came with plugs in these holes and I have not had this problem.. I plan to plug the holes in the 96 now....
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Davefl
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have always coated the axle with fresh grease before installing. On all of my bikes I have never had a problem with rust on the axle. I doesn't take much and it is cheap.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use anti-sieze on the axle, though it makes a mess when I pull the axle. Never had a problem with it sticking (after 20k miles and plenty of heavy soakings).
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S2pengy
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have always put water grease on mine but the problem stll happened, soooo as I said I think the problem is the open casting holes which could be setting up long term corrision inside the wheels as well.....
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S2pengy
Posted on Monday, July 12, 2004 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whoops
Ment to say I always use water proof grease on my axle....
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try the Anti Sieze. I think thats what the manual recommends anyway...

I have a heck of a time getting the stuff off my hands or rims for anything, even with soap and solvents. I can only assume it sticks to the axle as well.
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

anti sieze is great stuff, except when it comes to getting it off your hands and clothes and all . . . I've been using it on axles for, well, quite some time, and it's never let me down . . .it's also great for areas that tend to gall (for instance, steel sparkplugs into an aluminum head!, but be careful there, as the stuff is a hell of a conductor!)

water proof grease isn't very, in my experience, and a jar of anti seize will last for a long long time
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Aesquire
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anti Sieze is now available as a crayon. It still sticks to hands, clothes, etc. It is a bit easier to apply though. Nifty, & it also comes in a high temp spark plug version.
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a crayon? wow!

what color? Parkway Blue?
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Bluelightning
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have also found that 3m makes a non conductive anti seize that works great on spark plugs.
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Bomber
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2004 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

now THAT would have saved me a very long afternoon in the Entroy Lab, Mk 1 (which was actually a grvel parking lot outside the builiding I lived in)

any reason why you'd WANT conductive antiseize? or would non-conductive work in all applications (not like I need another nasty-stuff containmenet vessel on the shelf)
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