| Author | Message | ||
     Lake_bueller |
Short story... Just finished a top end rebuild on a 1998 S1W. In the process of tearing down the motor, I broke the oil pressure sensor and the wire connecting the plug. I replaced the sensor and fixed the plug with a splice. Everything worked perfectly for the first 400+ miles. Now the oil pressure light is flickering. But ONLY when the bike is in the upright position. I've checked the return oil flow in the tank and it seems to be okay. I've cleaned the connection at the sensor. Any ideas? I'm a little worried to go too far until I get the problem solved. I spent too much money on this rebuild to start over. Thanks!!! Dennis | ||
| Xldevil |
Hey. Which oil filter do you use? I had a similar effect on my Cyclone,when I used an automotive oilfilter.I changed back to HD Dyna oilfilter(the long one) and had no more control light flickering. Ralph | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Never thought that it could be the filter. I used a Fram motorcycle filter. But with the new break-in, it's due for a changing (about 500 miles). | ||
| Al_lighton |
I've seen it many times where the oil light flickered when the oil was on the full side of things...when the oil level went down in the oil bag a little, the flickering stopped. I've even seen it where all that was necessary to get the flickering to stop was to remove the oil tank lid. | ||
| Old_bird |
Is the light flickering all the time? Or sporadically? How many miles on oil pump and gears? I have a friend who flicker was due to a short in the wiring. My own case was worse. The oil light on my 95 xl began a sporadic flicker after a top end rebuild at 41,000 miles. Oil temp was normal and seemed to be circulating. The mechanic insisted my oil pump was fine because there was oil in the top end (removed rocker cover and started it). To make the story short, the indy still insisted the oil pump was fine at 55,000 miles despite major damage that IMO was due to lack of oil. When I pulled the oil pump, the gears were irregularly worn, the gerotors were out of spec and would catch when turned by hand. Really ticked me off as the heads were done by Wes at CycleRama and ran great. Oh well, I just got the engine back after a total rebuild (by NHRS) and I'm doing the final assembling myself this time. Hopefully your problem is something simple like a short but I urge you to find the problem before you put too many miles on it, even if you have to pull the oil pump to be sure. Hope this helps. Bird | ||
| Ceejay |
my oil light would flicker, and then began to stay on, I pulled the cam cover as I knew the drive gear was in need of attention, I had checked it earlier in the year, and it showed some bad wear/knife edgining. At first I thought that this was causing the problem but later found out I had some front cylinder scuffing which I think may have been creating the issue/symptoms...I always thought that the light came on due to underpressure, but it might be more of a flow indication. | ||
| Old_bird |
I think I need to clarify my previous post referring to headwork I had done by Wes at CycleRama and why I used somebody different the second time. The headwork done by CycleRama was top-notch. It was in no way responsible for my problems (caused by a combination of a failing oil pump, a local mechanic who kept telling me I didn't have a problem and my own stupidity for not insisting that I had a problem and it be fixed.) Wes redid a set of 883 xl heads with small valves. The heads flowed to 7,000 rpm with those small valves. While it wasn't a hp monster (77), the hp climbed to 6,700 rpm and held until the rev limit of 7,000. The throttle response was incredible. I am very happy with the work Wes did. Again, Wes is in no way responsible for my problem. When I saw the extent of internal damage due, IMO, to a failing oil pump, I really agonized over what to do. I considered options from rebuilding her as she was to an 88" to a one-off short stroke 1,000 cc xl. I eventually chose another shop because it also has an excellent reputation and provided me with a complete package of powdercoating, lower and upper engine rebuild, and some custom machining. I apologize for not clearly stating that Wes did excellent work for me, that I am very happy with it and he is no way responsible for my problem. Lakebueller, I apologize for hijacking your thread. As I made an unclear statement in your thread I felt I should best clarify it here and apologize. Good luck with your oil light flicker. Hopefully it is something simple. Bird Ibettergetbacktowork division | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Thanks for all the input guys! I'm not sure if I have solved the problem or not....but the light is off. I replaced the Fram (was planning that anyways) with an AMSOIL filter. Also changed the oil and cleaned the sensor. All seems to be working well right now. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it was a bad filter or dirty sensor. | ||
| Mxer83 |
Is it possable that the splice you put in is not good & could be of high resistance? kind of far fetched but you never know? maybe check wiring with an ohm meter? | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Light started flickering again this weekend. I traced the source to a wire short somewhere by the starter. I'll need to start pealing back the wiring harness this week. At least I know it's not a terminal failure  |
