| Author | Message | ||
     Girders |
Anyone know if the new XB9S headlamps can rotate inside the housing. Say if one was wanting to put them vertically?!?! one quarter of a turn is all thats needed! | ||
| Blake |
Girders, The lights are mounted in a frame that would not appear to facilitate being rotated 90o. That's not to say an inventive mind couldn't find a way to accomplish such a transformation, just that it might require some significant design and fabrication to do so. | ||
| Girders |
I talked to one of the techs, at harley they said no but I looked in our service manual here at work, they have the back exposed, and the way it looks, that if you can find that point that fixes the lenses you might be able to turn it?? I think I'd be better of leaving them as is! I need to get it running before I worry about lighting. | ||
| Paisan |
Hello folks! Has anyone here put a tach on their M2 that wasnt a factory item? I am talking about buying one from a Harley catalog like j&p and mounting it. Any knowledge, ideas, suggestions? This tach is gonna run me about $60. I can fabricate brackets and such. thanks | ||
| Buell_Brener |
Does anyone have a suggestion for an extra bright head light replacement bulb for an X1. I suppose you could simply drive with the high beam on during daylight hours but it seems like you would go through bulbs faster? Regards | ||
| Aesquire |
Running the brights doesn't hurt and is a good idea in daytime for the visibility. You usually burn out only the filament you use most anyway. 55/60 high/low is stock. 55/100 or 80/100 bulbs are available. (off road use only) It's a standard H4, I recommend the heavy duty or motorcycle models, but you can get funny colors too, if you like. | ||
| Rick_A |
I found some sweet, tiny, 4-LED chrome amber signal lights at a local shop. I'm amazed at how bright the little suckers are. They were very inexpensive, too. Best of all...I've got front turn signals again! | ||
| Bomber |
Paisan . . . .if memory serves, there's a write up of a solution just like what you propose over on ATC | ||
| Paisan |
bomber.... how do I get over to ATC? Can you mail me the link?thanks | ||
| Roc |
Can anyone direct me to the Buell information sheet about converting the S1 to the Blast battery? I can't seem to find the information anywhere. I also think the kit I bought is incomplete. Can someone direct me to a place to buy a load tester with an induction pickup? None of the local auto parts stores had ever heard of such a thing. Thank you, A frustrated Rocky | ||
| Roc |
Maybe I should be more specific. I'm trying to troubleshoot my S1's charging system and I am half way down the flowchart in the service manual. I am asked to preform a total current draw test and a current output test - both of which require a load tester with an induction pickup. I don't know much about electronics diagnostics, but I can generally follow directions. Can I do this with another/other tools? Thanks | ||
| Blake |
Where are all the electrical guys when you need them? Seems like an actual ammeter/multimeter would do the job. | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Roc, If you have the time I'd take a look here before you get to involved. Make sure you read all of this small article and not just the first paragraph. Cheers, -JW:>  | ||
| Rick_A |
Right...you really shouldn't need a load tester though it'd be nice. Before anything test the battery. Charge it up and see if it holds a charge...record the voltage then load test. There's a couple ways to do it. One is to disable the ignition and use the starter as a load tester. Just crank it continuously for 15 seconds. Another is to put all your lights on (blinker, high beam, brake light) and hit the horn at the same time. Sounds silly but it's supposed to work. Battery voltage drop after this should not be less than 1/2 volt. If the drop is more the battery is only surface charging and needs replacement. After that a voltage drop test can be used to determine the integrity of most energized circuits. Simply connect your test leads in series anywhere you want to check...starting from the battery. Generally there should be less than a .2V drop across any connection and less than .5V over any complete portion of a circuit. Do this across a load and what you're reading is the voltage used by that load. Charging system testing is easy, too. Just connect the leads to the batt. and check running voltage. Compare this to the specs. Just remember as a precaution that you never make or break a circuit while energized. May not be much but it's a good start. | ||
| Hootowl |
Roc, The average meter you can buy at Sears only reads in the milliamp range, and even the more expensive ones only go to 10 amps. Inductive ammeters can read higher values because the current doesn't have to go through the meter. They calculate the current from the magnetic field. Sears sells them, don't know how much they are. Also, beware of the load test as the be all end all of battery indicators. I had mine tested. It passed with flying colors, but still wouldn't hold a charge. Rick is spot on with the horn suggestion. They suck up a lot of juice. | ||
| 99x1 |
IMHO, buying load testers ,inductive ammeters, etc, is more expensive then replacing parts. The battery can do strange things, and about the only other part is the regulator/rectifier. If you have something strange like one diode burnt in the regulator, it would be difficult to find without an oscilloscope. Maybe check the wiring (see attached diagram) and swap the battery and regulator.  Good luck; John | ||
| Roc |
Thanks for the help guys. My girlfriend actually has time for me today so I will have to work on this next week. | ||
| Blake |
Rick, "Generally there should be less than a .2V drop across any connection and less than .5V over any complete portion of a circuit." The <0.2 V drop across any connection makes sense, but less than 0.5 V over any complete portion of a circuit is making sense to me. A circuit running on a 12 V battery will always have a 12 V drop across entire circuit (yeah I know it's really 13.4 V). You must mean exclusive of the load. Are you talking about the supply and ground portions exclusive of the load? | ||
| Rick_A |
Are you talking about the supply and ground portions exclusive of the load? Yessir. It gives you a good idea of the physical integrity of the wiring. There's easy ways to test rotors, stators, rectifier/regulator, too...but when it comes to that the service manual is a pretty good source. | ||
| Roc |
Jim - I think that aricle you had the link for is the ticket. Seems to allow me to do everything the service manual asks, but with only a multimeter. Thanks to all for their help. I'll let you know how it all turns out. | ||
| Slasher |
hi guys i have been offered a new screamin eagle coil and plug leads from a sportster both are un used as i am not well up on this side of things will they fit a 1998 s3t and are they of any benifit over the standard items | ||
| Blake |
The coil will fit. It is rated for a higher voltage output. Not beneficial unless you are running higher compression and/or high performance heads/exhaust that pack more charge into the combustion chamber. Not sure if the plug wires are the same length, other than length, they should work fine. They will not work on a DDFI bike though as the leads on the coil are different configuration. | ||
| Kcbill |
The plug end will not fit correctly. They are straight at the plug. Buells have a 90 degree elbow.You can maybe make them go on but with the way the bikes vibrate they would concern me in that they will rub threw with time. Could become a reliability issue. | ||
| Bull |
Hi All, I've just bought myself a complete instrument panel with a tach from a 01'M2, which I will fit on my M2'99 (I gave up on digital instruments..). Now for my Q, how do I wire the tach?? I haven't got the things yet (as they are in the shipping loop) but my guess is that I wont get the harness. I know that this issue has been adressed before but that covered the tach kit for M2's! So, do I have the harness "parked" somewhere on the bike or do I connect via the speedo or... Please enlighten me! Thanks in advance! /Jonas | ||
| Ryan_M2 |
I just had the speed sensor fail again on my '00 M2 after only 288 miles. It was part number 74431-01 (the main difference from the previous one was a shorter cable) and I bought it last October 31st. The warranty info on the back of the receipt conveniently states that parts are only warranteed for 90 days, and that electrical components are excluded anyways. I searched through the archives last night, and the most promising info seemed to be another updated part number that might have become available in January. Does anybody know if the new speed sensor is available and what the new part number is? Also, do these seem to be lasting any longer? Thanks, Ryan | ||
| Blake |
KCBill, I think my front Buell plug wire (at the spark plug) is straight. The rear one has a ~120o bend. | ||
| Roc |
I've been checking my charging system and it seems to be the alternator. The battery tested ok. The voltage regulator passed the bleed test in my service manual. The alternator seems to put out 1.5-1.8 volts between 1000 and 3000 RPM - oh, that isn't good. Following the instructions in the link posted by Jim Witt I checked the stator for resistance, it was around .2 ohms. I also checked the stator to see if it was grounded, and it was not. How else would an alternator fail? | ||
| Rick_A |
Did you start with a known good battery? If your stator resistance is good and it passed the insulation breakdown test, it is good. Did you test the AC output? If a DC output test is done with the battery in place...if the battery is charged the regulator shunts to ground and will show little to no output at that point. Do a test directly at the stator AC output leads (meter set at VAC of course) and you'll get a real reading. The other thing is the checked portion of the rectifier/regulator. It's an easy test if you have a multimeter with a diode test function. The bike uses a full wave rectifier. There are 4 diodes...and there's only 2 same colored AC output leads going into it...coming from the stator. First disconnect the rectifier/regulator. Test the leads in forward bias from the case to each lead, then in reverse bias from each lead to the case (using a bare area). The meter should read .3 to .8V in forward bias, OFL (open) in reverse. There is one rectified DC output lead that is the same color as the other two. Do the same test using this lead and the AC leads. That's 8 tests altogether. If it isn't reading all OFL in one direction and .3 to .8V in the other, it's junk. Probably the best test of overall charging system integrity is the amperage draw test...but that one's a bit tricky. | ||
| Roc |
The battery is a new Yuasa YTX12-BS. It will: take and hold a charge, start the cold bike 6-8 times, allow me to ride around for maybe 15 minutes, and then fail to start the bike when I shut it off. I've been through this probably 3 times with the battery. Les Schwabe, a local tire/battery shop of good repute, tested it for me and confirmed that it was good. The AC output leads, with the multi-meter set to VAC, reads between 1.3 and 1.8 volts with the engine RPM from 1000-3000 RPM. However, the stator resistance is around .2 ohms and it does not test as grounded against the case. | ||
| Bull |
Hi All (again..), I've just bought myself a complete instrument panel with a tach from a 01'M2, which I will fit on my M2'99 (I gave up on digital instruments..). Now for my Q, how do I wire the tach?? I haven't got the things yet (as they are in the shipping loop) but my guess is that I wont get the harness. I know that this issue has been adressed before but that covered the tach kit for M2's! So, do I have the harness "parked" somewhere on the bike or do I connect via the speedo or... Please enlighten me! Thanks in advance! /Jonas |
