| Author | Message | ||
     Anon_R |
Bill, There are few people on this planet that know more about that belt system than the above poster. Listen to him. R | ||
| Court |
Agreed | ||
| Buellfan |
I'm just remembering some pages from a Gates toothed belt application manual I saw. They had a whole chapter about belt handling and things not to do with toothed belts. They had photos of coiled belts, belts hanging on a peg, and belts being twisted lots of different directions all with the big red “X” across each photo. It made me wonder about the old Ford Escort timing belt I replaced, and glad that I never saw the guy I sold it to again. According to what I remember, it's not the force it's the radius of the bend or twist. Bend them over a small enough radius and some fibers will snap. A 90 deg. twist over a long enough free span may not be too bad, a 90 deg. twist close to a sprocket will fracture some of the kevlar fibers for sure. The stuff is incredibly brittle and will fracture very easily if bent too much in a small area. You’ll never be able to break the entire bundle by hand, just create a week spot. If it were me, I wouldn't do it, or go far from home after a twist like that. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hey... I know when to retreat! RETREAT! OK... no more bending my belt  Thanks! That does beg the original question though. If I follow my manual, I believe my belt ends up WAY too tight. Maybe I am wrong, or doing it wrong. The only really good adjustment methodology was (Henrik I think) removing the rear suspension and adjust the belt for no tension throughout the entire swingarm travel. Thats a LOT of work for periodic maintenance. So the "no 90 degree bend" approach being bad, that brings me back to "just loosen the thing till its barely slapping the top of the swingarm"... which can't be great but beats mangling bearings when the belt becomes my rear suspension the first time I clobber a pothole... I remember Blakes math for that, and the stresses quickly reach the absurd. Is the manual (unloaded bike in neutral and 10 pounds of force and a 1.5 inch deflection or something like that) really reliable? Bill | ||
| Redstripe |
Thanks for the input, Guys. I was aware of the "twist it 90 degrees"-rule through Harley-friends. Won't do that, then... The belt is rather loose as it is, actually. Yet with the suspension weakening in time -the rear spring'll have to be replaced- even like it is, the suspension has so much travel; it's pretty tight sitting on the bike. Ever noticed the two scuffed spots on the rear mudguard of x1's? As it is, I WON'T ride it with a pillion. First let's fit a Hyperpro-spring, and hope that takes care of things. Would be nice to be able to adjust the belt Yourself, though? | ||
| Henrik |
Bill: I don't do the whole suspension removal for general maintenance. Do it once and take good measurements: deflection and axle location in swingarm. Now you know how far the belt should deflect with your particular suspension set-up/swingarm angle. So for following tension checks, you just refer to your notes binder ('cause you got one of those - right ) and adjust until you have the correct (as measured previously) amount of deflection. Henrik | ||
| Duck |
I just lost my drive belt. (51,000) Does anyone know what these things run?? I have 00M2. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Duck Have a 97S3T original belt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tomorrow when "i" return home it will have over 53K......................................... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Hootowl |
Duck, They run almost $200. | ||
| Blake |
Belt tension spec is 1.50"-1.75" total deflection with suspension fully unloaded and ~10 LB force applied at midspan. | ||
| Duck |
Thanks Hoot. I found out it will run me $175. I didn't realize they were so much. It's the labor that will kill you on the belt replacement though. $273. I lucked out though as my dealer is giving me the 50,000 mile service free and that means no labor to put the belt on. Buellistic, I'd give that belt a good inspection if I were you. I had just about the same mileage as you when mine went yesterday. | ||
| Hootowl |
Yeah, I got sticker shock too. Free 50K huh? That's great. Wait...50K? On a 2000 M2? What, do you sleep with that thing? Jeff | ||
| Reepicheep |
Blake... when I do that, it still looks way too tight, and feels like it binds up when I go over something that really stresses the suspension. I played around with some ratcheting cable straps to see if I could get the swingarm squoze down to being in line with the sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle (should be the worst case for belt tension). I could not quite get there (did not want to hurt the seat or any body work) but as it got close it looked way too tight. Its hard to tell though, and I was worried about something falling over or going "sproing" and removing a finger, so I could have had something wrong. Henrik... when you pulled the shock and manipulated the swingarm, how did the net result end up looking compared to the "official" setup procedure? Bill | ||
| Rempss |
Bill, Last time I used the word "squoze" a friend of mine tried the say it was not a word. I will be using this board as proof of my intelligence. Thank You, Jeff | ||
| Hans |
Bill, Undoubtedly Blake has given the right technical description with the term "total deflection" but as I understood from my manual it is the deflection measured upward from an imaginary straight line between the back of the belt laying on the sprockets. You can move the belt much more than 1.75 inch up and down then: It feels not tight at all: It feels pretty loose. It sounds somewhat strange because the free play of the primary chain is measured between maximal up and maximal down. Hans. | ||
| Henrik |
Bill: can't really give you any specific numbers since I'm running a Penske shock, that I've dialed even shorter than the "new" stock shock. In other words, my belt looks downright crazy loose I would go with a bit looser rather than tighter. Henrik | ||
| Duck |
Hoot, >Free 50K huh? That's great. Yeah, I have a great dealer. (Southside HD/Buell in VA Beach)I had my bike in for a new tire and the GM saw my mileage and said when you get it to 50,000 come on in and the service is on us. I almost passed out. >Wait...50K? On a 2000 M2? What, do you sleep with that thing? lol.........I do like to ride. My plate says NO CAR so you get the idea. I have a vehicle, but I very rarely get in it | ||
| Blake |
Yes, what Hans said. Thanks for the clarification Hans! | ||
| Lornce |
Hey Buellers, Who can save me hours of sifting through archives and just tell me the best source for 29T countershaft pullies and 55T rear wheel pullies? Thanks for any information offered. | ||
| Road_Thing |
Lornce: I don't know about the 55, but I've got a 29 I'll sell you. Ping me at the address in my profile... r-t | ||
| Buellskinner |
Any one have a source for a 30T fron sporcket for the Buell/Sportster engine? Thanks | ||
| Aaron |
Tom: I have a 26, it's made by Baker and I bought it from Tat. All-aluminum construction, even the hub. I *believe* Baker offers a 28 as well, but the web site is down right now. I don't have one. Supermax offers one but it's ridiculously expensive. I also have a 30, it's made by BDL. Without going out to the shop to look, my memory tells me it's aluminum with a steel hub. Not sure who sells it (I bought it used) but I'd ask Tat. Again, Baker *might* make one as well. Also consider a Baker 6, it opens up a lot of options with respect to gearing. Drag the thing out to Bonneville, too! | ||
| Buellskinner |
Aaron: Thanks. The 26T from Baker is readily available. Will talk with Tat about the 28T. Firemanjim told us he got his 30T from Custom Chrome. Their page was also down today, will check on Monday. Depending on the fall racing schedule we just might do that. Going to try and have somethng ready for the first Maxton event in March of 03. Will keep up "in th eloop" on the progress. Ride Safe | ||
| Rattler |
I ordered the 30 tooth thru V-twin Aaron...way to much money for that little piece of metal. Dale A. | ||
| Jasons1 |
Sorry again if this is a redundant question, but I'm having some trouble, and I'm hoping you guys can help out. I'm trying to get the front pulley off of my '96 S1. I had my dealer install a 29 tooth for me last season, and I'm replacing it with a 28 tooth from Drag Specialties. By the way, they've got 26, 27, 28, 29, & 30 tooth pulleys available in their "Fat Book". I sold my 29 to a fellow BadWeber, and now I'm having trouble getting it off. I never imagined it would be so difficult. Here's the scenerio. Since my crash last fall, the bike is up on a pair of Handy stands, both front and rear. I've removed the cover, swingarm support, two allen head screws and locking plate. Now, I've got my hands on this MASSIVE 1.875" socket. I put the bike into first gear, turn the socket clockwise (opposite thread, per the service manual), and all that happens is the motor turns over. I loosely installed the rear tire w/pulley, but as my rear axel adjusters are out at the chrome shop, I could only put it in place. I lowered the rear end down, and tried again. Now, there's more resistance, but the belt just slips. I feel bad, because I thought I could just pull this thing out and get it in the mail to him, but now I'm having problems. Any help you guys could give would certainly be appreciated. As well as any tips for installing my new 28 tooth. Thanks! Ride Safe. - Jason | ||
| Henrik |
It won't help you now, but when you get the rear wheel bolted back on, put a 2x4 through the wheel, so it rests on the swingarm and prevents the wheel from turning. Then you should be able to get the nut off. Otherwise, an impact wrench is the only option I know of. Henrik | ||
| Blake |
Jason, What Henrik said, and to clarify for those listening who may not know better, use a pneumatic or electric impact wrench, not the manual hammer operated kind. Never pound on something supported by roller bearings unless you are prepared to replace the bearings and their races. | ||
| Lornce |
Henrik, That's a nice simple solution I hadn't thought to use. Thanks, next time. This time I held the rear brake on with my right foot while I turned the nut with a socket on a 3/4" drive johnson bar. The 2' johnson bar provided enough leverage to remove the nut smoothly without jerking or shocking the shaft. Curious to see what the S1 will pull with the 29t front sprocket. Mosport track rally at the end of May. Only three months to go. Whoo hoo! I hate winter, Lornce | ||
| Blake |
You have a 2' johnson?! | ||
| Hootowl |
He uses it to get his nuts off. |
