Author |
Message |
Ap_sand
| Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 06:46 pm: |
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Ok, despite everyone’s warnings and admonitions I managed to over tighten and break the housing for the choke cable. Is this a big $$$ part and is there a better place to get it than my, 20% over list price, dealer? |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2006 - 08:02 pm: |
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Try our generally 10% or so under list guy, Dave at Appleton on the sponsor's page. I'd probably try gluing it back together with a CA glue. Jack |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, April 13, 2006 - 09:58 am: |
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call daves -- last I paid list for it, it was around 10 bucks or so (three years ago) -- I couldn't get glue to hold the housing togegher, but was successful at immobilizing the cable within the housing |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Thursday, April 13, 2006 - 03:51 pm: |
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Well there you go, another theory shot to hell! I guess that is why they started called that en "enrichener". Every time someone gets a little heavy handed on it the company gets a little bit enrichened. Jack |
Jayvee
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 12:32 pm: |
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I just did the same thing, it was $11.94 at Dudley-Perkins HD in San Francisco. I zip-tied the broken cable to the mount, but it just irked me too much leave it like that forever. I just bought the cable but haven't put it on yet. Which brings me to the main point, the Service Manual doesn't say how to replace it! I read through the whole book twice. Is it that self-evident? I haven't taken the tank off yet, but it looks like I have to at least do that, to get access. Do I have to remove the carb? How is the cable end held in? |
Jackbequick
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 03:14 pm: |
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The carb has to be removed with the enrichener still attached. I had my carb off and cleaned it up but don't recall if the enrichener was removed from the carb to do that. But at any rate, removing the carb from the bike is probably a necessary step. It might be a good time to consider replacing the carb to manifold gasket and the manifold to cylinder head seals while you have the carb off. Its been said here that replacing those every two years or so is a good idea for preventing vacuum leaks. Here are a couple of good links for modifying and tuning the CV-40. The first link, the mod for the larger low speed jet and exposing the low speed mixture screw, has a history of performing miracles on starting, warm up, and low speed smoothness on the early tubers. I did the #45 jet on my M2 and was very happy with the results. Set the mixture screw at 2-1/2 turns and that was it. http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/carbadjust.htm Jack |
Ap_sand
| Posted on Friday, April 14, 2006 - 04:06 pm: |
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Thanks everyone. Contacted Dave at appleton and he's got one coming. Yes, I know for sure you have to remove the carb to install it. I've had that sucker off half a dozen time in the past few weeks. First to jet the original CV-40, then to replace it and jet a new HRS-42. I shoulda known better. Just one more tweak... |
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