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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Fuel System: EFI/DDFI, Carb., Filter, Pump, Tank, Filler-Cap, Fuel » Archive through September 11, 2006 » STRIPPED BOWL BOLTS « Previous Next »

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Jersey_thunder
Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My wifes bike has twin mikunis on it...went to clean out the pilot jet..STRIPPED ONE OF THE BOWL BOLTS,..
not alot of room for tools on this one..any ideas?

JT
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Jackbequick
Posted on Friday, March 24, 2006 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can you tap the body out to a slightly larger size bolt? That is probably about a 3mm or 4mm machine screw, if you can find the next larger size and a matching tap, run the tap through and use the corresponding screw. Your choices will probably be something like (dia - thread pitch):

3mm - .5mm
4mm - .7mm
5mm - .8mm

Worse comes to worse, you might even be able to save it with a 6-32, 8-32 or 10-24 tap and screw.

Those screws may have been put in with Loctite in the past. I've noticed several times that bowl and other screws on those cast zinc carbs can be hard to turn when putting them back. The cause was hardened Loctite residue in the threads. I use a tap to clean the threads when I find the screws are hard to turn because I know from experience that the zinc is not very strong.

Jack
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Jersey_thunder
Posted on Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JACK,
hey guy,the head of the screw is stripped...can't get the screw out..soft white metal...

thanks,
jt
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Road_thing
Posted on Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JT:

If you can get at them with a Dremel tool and a little cutting wheel, you can grind a slot across the head of the stripped bolt and back it out with a screwdriver.

rt
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Jackbequick
Posted on Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, I thought it was the thread.

Maybe what Raod Thing said?

If you can drill straight down that centering on the pocket of the Phillips head, the screw head should fall off and you can remove the bowl cover (if I have the picture here).

Then if there is enough of a remnant to get a hold of with a pliers or something, maybe you can get the stub out. Easyouts are pretty much a lost cause on bolts that small unless they will turn like fighter tight freely.

Here are the metric screw sizes and inch drill sizes that should work (depending on the screw size) for drilling the head of the screw off.

3mm = 1/8"
4mm = 5/32"
5mm = 3/16"

High speed, light pressure, good luck! If you get the cover off and the stub won't turn, try heating it up to about 400-500F and that should get any Loctite to relax it's grip.

A bigger soldering gun or iron held in contact with the screw might work for relaxing the Loctite. Those usually get up to around 800F but you'll lose most of the heat in transfer.

Jack

(Message edited by jackbequick on March 25, 2006)
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