| Author | Message | ||
     Suaverider |
After messing with alignment, I have come to the conclusion that my front pulley may be worn. My rear pulley has nice square teeth slightly keyed. The front pulley seems to have more rounded teeth. The teeth are straight (not slanted in one direction). Also no matter how tight the belt is, you can push the belt right into the tranny with just one finger. There is also a bit of black dust on the case. Perhaps it has been tracking poorly for a while. What do you think? Could this be the cause of my belt alignment problem? The bike has only 6500 miles on it. I bought it used. If so, what do I need to know to replace the front pulley. Any special tools or tricks? Is the pulley just a standard HD XL type pulley? Are there any seals or bearings to replace? Thanks for any info. | ||
| Jackbequick |
You'll need a large (around 1-7/8" or so) socket (3/4" drive), I can get you the actual size needed if you want it. I defer to anyone that has removed one (I have not) but I think you can put the bike in gear and use a locking bar on the primary drive side to lock the primary. The best way is probably to use a big air impact wrench. I tried to break mine loose with a 1/2" breaker bar (adapted to a 3/4" drive socket) and using a 3 foot long pipe cheater on the breaker bar. The nut (left hand thread by the way) did not give up but I did. I thought my breaker bar was at risk. I was going to round up an impact wrench but before I got back to doing it, I found the noise I was looking for was somewhere else and did not remove the pulley. That nut has a very high torque and somewhat unusual method of mounting, setting the torque, and locking it. I'd recommend you get access to a SM for the details. I have a '00 M2 also, email me at jacker at midmiane dot com if you want some help with the details. There is a seal and bearing behind that pulley that I would replace if I had it off and that requires pulling the transmission (out from the primary side) and using either a special tool or a lot of cunning. That bearing is a high failure item on M2's that were run with the drive belts adjusted to factory specs. That belt is best run much looser than is recommended in the SM (details are in the KV). If the bike is a keeper a SM (along with the BadWeb KV) will reward you many times. Try Daves at H-D or Appleton on the sponser page to get a SM (and parts book?), his prices are about as good as you can do short of getting luck on eBay or something. Jack | ||
| Bomber |
I gave up trying to remove the from pulley with hand tools, and got an electric impact wrench (from Sears) -- zippobang, two minutes later, puller was off! I've since used the impact wrench for many tasks, so it was definately a good addition to the tool kit! no air in my garage, except when I'm talkin, of course ;-} | ||
| Mikej |
How much was the electric hammer wrench at Sears, and do you think it would work for the large main primary nut? Don't need one yet, just planning ahead and collecting data points. | ||
| Bomber |
er -- bout $35 on sale round Labor Day (and why Sears would mark a celebration of a distinctly socialist holiday is a conundrum, to me, at aleast) -- Wobblies Unite! I think it may work on the primary nut, but, in the spirit of full disclosure, I've not tried it on that application you know where it is, Mike, and are welcome to use it whenever |
