| Author | Message | ||
     Hugh_jass |
Can anyone offer any tips on removing the front pulley? I know that the threads are left hand and I have been using an impact to try and remove it with no luck. I'm almost ready to take a torch to it. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I've successfully used an electric impact wrench that doesn't have much torque at all but if I just let it rattle away for a while, it does the trick eventfully. | ||
| Prior |
A little heat followed by a few knocks on the nut with a drift punch should help to loosen it up. If it's never been off before, it'll probably take some work. Heat, a knock or two and then try loosening again. Rinse and repeat. (Message edited by awprior on March 23, 2006) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Try running impact to tight and then loosen to jar the rust,thread locker,etc loose. | ||
| Xldevil |
You have to heat it!!!!! Not only a little. Remember,Locktite red is used on this thread. The thread has to be hotter than it becomes during engine operation. Once the nut is well heated, it is no problem to remove it.You will not need any impact. (Message edited by xldevil on March 23, 2006) | ||
| Blake |
Try a bit of WD-40 and ensure that you have good pressure in your compressor tank. A good air impact wrench set to maximum should have no trouble removing that nut. You did remove the plate washer that captures the nut, right? | ||
| Blake |
I'd be very wary of banging on the nut with a drift punch. The bearings are not intended to take severe impacts like that. The torsional impacts of an air or electrical impact wrench are actually gentle on the bearings. | ||
| Hugh_jass |
Thanks for all the responses. I was unsure about using heat because I didn't want to cook a bearing or anything. I work for a railroad and we have a 3/4" hydraulic impact on our truck I'm gonna use that tomorrow. If that doesn't take it off, I'll try heating it. Also, can anyone recommend any place that sells a chain sprocket for a '96? | ||
| Xldevil |
Hey. Do what ever you want, but heat does the trick. Locktite red needs heat to be broken,otherwise potentially something else will be broken by your power impact. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Loctite says on the package that heat is required or recommended to release the red - it specifies 500F as the release temp. I have one of those handheld propane torches like the crackheads use. I've used it for warming up nuts and bolts. Those torches have a pinpoint flame so the heat is easy to localize. Playing that torch around the big locking nut until it was way too hot to touch would work and it would not be enough to cook the seal or bearing. If the next question is "How do you judge the temp?", the answer is a use a Tempilstik crayon. Jack | ||
| Xldevil |
Hugh,did you and how did you mange, to get the sprocket nut off? | ||
| Hugh_jass |
I did manage to get it off. My truck at work has a 1" drive hydraulic impact on it. I used that and it came right off. | ||
| Zenbiker |
What is that rubber 'plug' in the center of the shaft, can anyone elaborate? | ||
| Firemanjim |
It is a seal to keep crud/moisture out. Look here in manual http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/BU6b.pdf | ||
| Manufromparis |
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| Kiwicris |
Thats what i like to see Manu - if at first you don't succeed, try a bigger "mer" . . . as in "hamMER"! ! ! ! On seeing the powerbar (and getting a giggle),and the Manu part of your on-screen name (before I checked your profile), I had you pegged for a New Zealand Maori. Manu is a Maori name and in New Zealand, when someone uses "rough-as-guts" or McGiver" methods to get mechanical stuff done - like a 20 foot long powerbar - it's called "being a Maori" or "That's pretty Maori" . . .very UN P.C. of course !!  } | ||
| Bluzm2 |
If you look closely you will see the other half of the the "secret" pulley removing tool. The Pulley Hold Down Clamp. They work VERY well! Brad |
