| Author | Message | ||
     Sgthigg |
Does a whirling sound soing from the primary area indicate a too tight or too loose chain? When at idle you can hear it over the exhaust as you give a tiny amount of gas you can hear it spin up and then disapear as revs increase... Were talking lound enought to hear it over a aftermarket exhaust pipe. | ||
| Buellistic |
"TOO TIGHT !!!" Adjust your primary chain to 3/4 inch on the tight spot, cold !!! THE FACTORY MOTORS MANUAL IS WRONG !!! (Message edited by buellistic on March 21, 2006) | ||
| Sgthigg |
Goof f in grief. Thanks for email i got from you, and this reply. Yah mine now is per factory service manual spec. Definetly whirling and when you give it about 50-150 more rpms at idle it gets faster then disapears. Not good I guess. Will put her back asap. | ||
| M1combat |
Factory setting always worked for me... Be sure to adjust when the bike is COLD and be sure to find the tight spot. I NEVER adjust the primary unless the bike has been sitting in the shade (or a garage) for at least eight hours. | ||
| Buellistic |
FACTORY SPEC. IS NOT FINE AS IT IS TOO TIGHT !!! | ||
| Sgthigg |
Got er done. Back to looose factory spec. No whirl. Just the typical rattle from down there. Thanks | ||
| Tank_bueller |
I did the same thing, and it makes the same noise. Guess I need to back her off a little. Thanks for the info! | ||
| Jessicasdad |
what about for a 2004 XB12R ??? | ||
| Buellistic |
All tube frames and XBs 3/4 inch on the tight spot, Cold !!! | ||
| Jessicasdad |
Question ... since I am ripping the cover off the do this .. is there anything else I should check or replace at this time, I have a XB12r .. thanks | ||
| Reepicheep |
Perhaps make sure the front sprocket is set to the new torque spec (240 ft lbs with loktite red). That being said, I have only heard of ones that have been removed post factory coming loose, so the factory has probably been "over torquing" them all along. You could also check the little plate that holds down the stator wires, and make sure there is not a sharp little edge there carving through the stator wire insulation. | ||
| Jessicasdad |
thanks Reep .. appreciate it ... | ||
| Dennis_c |
the primary chain adjuster in side the cover. i had 4 of them brake on me on the old tube frame buells. | ||
| Buellistic |
Dennis_c: How deep did the primary chain wear into the plastic on the SHOE ASM. part number 39975-90A ??? | ||
| Buellin_ri |
Damn I guess mine is a little to tight also! I noticed the same whiring sound (only been on it for 100 miles or less). Better fix that tonight. Its been kind of tough to find neutral also. | ||
| Jackbequick |
The other day I noticed that a handy reference for checking the chain is that the chain sideplates are 3/8" wide (3/8" high as seen through the inspection cover). So if you lift on it, the bottom edge should come up to where the top edge was. And pushed down the top edge should go to where the bottom edge was. You might actually get a little more pushing up and less pushing down because of the slight sag in the chain. I gave mine a check the other day and the tight spot marking I put on it over a year a go is still visible. It took me about 3 minutes to make a quick adjustment (slightly tighter for accumulated wear). Jack | ||
| Buellin_ri |
I did it that way and there is a whining sound like Sgthing said. Now everyone seems to think thats to tight. I just went out in the parking lot and backed it of about 3/4 of a turn (just until I get home and adjust it properly), and there is still a whine. I don't know whats up with it, if its normal (can't remember the noise before). It does have a new adjuster shoe, maybe thats making the noise??? I hate this I don't want to be picking up pieces of my motor off the road. | ||
| Buellin_ri |
Readjusted the primary last night. Every thing is a ok now. no more whine | ||
| Jackbequick |
That's good to hear. I almost wonder if some of these don't have a "personality" where variations in the "perfect" adjustment are needed. I noticed when I had my primary cover off that the clutch basket/sprocket assembly is not really ridgidly mounted. There is some movement there that might be a variable from bike to bike and in the adjustment. Jack | ||
| Hardcorps |
I just took by 12ss in for the 1000 mile service, and when I rode it home I heard what I think is the whirring sound that every one is reffering too. It didn't start right away, but after 10 miles or so! I have no wrenching skills at all! Will I be okay riding the bike back to the dealer about 45mins away? I have read how to adjust in several of the post surrounding this topic, but I still don't think I am up for the job. Please let me know? Hard Corps | ||
| Jackbequick |
That chain tightens up as it gets warm so you may be right about the source of the noise. You should be able to tell real quick if that is what the problem is. Open the small cover (5/32" allen wrench) and if you can't push the chain up about 3/8" or so when pushing hard, it is too tight. If you're not up to fixing it, call the service manager at the dealer tell them about the noise, what you suspect it is, and ask if they want to come and get it or take the responsibility for what happens if you ride it back. If you want to give it a try, it is not too hard to adjust. Put a 1/4" allen wrench up into the end of the adjuster bolt and break the locking nut loose (7/8" open end). Loosen or lower the bolt 1/8th turn or so, lock it lightly, and check the adjustment again. A little bit goes a long way on the adjuster and a little loose is better than too tight. The target is a total of 3/4" play up and down, when you can push it up 5/16" to 3/8" you're about right. The chainplate is 3/8" high and provides a handy reference. If you have time to fool with it, tap the starter a few times (finger out!) and see if there is another spot that is tighter. If you find one adjust it at that spot. Jack | ||
| Hardcorps |
I called the dealer, and they offered to come pick up my bike! Hard Corps | ||
| Jackbequick |
That's a good deal, and maybe a good dealer too. I hope they take care of you. Anyone can make a mistake. The factory specs for that adjustment are a little less than the 3/4" usually recommend here and it might not have been done in the tightest spot. I think the people that are happiest with their Buells are those that can do more for themselves and that enjoy doing it. Jack | ||
| Rackman |
I had taken my bike in for the 1k service @ just under 500 miles, then I have ridden it and started hearing a noise in the primary gear area, whining, almost grinding, and went to dealer thinking the primary chain needed adjustment, and they told me the nut on the front gear was loose, and not to ride the bike and they toot it immediately, saying that they have had 5 different cases of the nut coming loose on the crank, one bad enough the crank had to be replaced. Is this a real problem, reading here it appears to happen more than not. Isn't this similar to what was happening in the RR bikes at Daytona? Also while the bike is down is there anything that i can do to the engine, i.e. porting checking the flow, etc to pep it up without voiding the warranty? have drummer, race ecm, air filter, etc of bolt on goodies, but just would like to tweek and improve if they have to take all the way down Thanks for your input. | ||
| Jackbequick |
The flywheel nut coming loose has been an occasional (or maybe even frequent) issue and in the last year or so the torque spec has been increased on the nut. But for home mechanics doing their own work, I suspect that imperfect tightening or locking might be part of the problem. The threaded shaft and the nut need to be cleaned meticulously, degreased, red Loctite applied, and the nut immediately tightened to to the spec (260 ft/lbs?). With your low mileage, if your dealer has had that nut loose in the past their work might account for the loosening. Otherwise, it came loose from the original factory install and I'd think it should be taken care of under warranty. If there is no warranty or it is simply a case of back luck, time, and distance I guess you just have to bite the bullet and pay for the repair. I am sort of an anal retentive detail freak, I'd want to do it myself. If a dealer was going to do it for me I'd interrogate them to make sure they knew the torque spec and procedure. Jack |
