| Author | Message | ||
     Pinkpank |
So do electrical questions (i.e. voltage regulator) belong in the "Engine - Electronics and Ignition" or in the "Electrical - Starter, Lights, Switches, and Guages" section?!? I'm just trying to confirm that the part number "Y0302.F" that I just ordered for $78.26 really *IS* the voltage regulator for my 2000 M2 Cyclone. These sub-boards are pretty slow . . . ;-0 TIA | ||
| Aaron |
My '00 M2 parts book lists 74567-98Y. Could've been superceded to the new number though. The factory regulator is a shunt style unit, excess juice from the stator is shunted. Series type regulators are available aftermarket that block, rather than bypass, the excess juice. The idea is to reduce the load on the stator, thus making it live longer and reducing the load on the engine. I cannot, however, find more power on the dyno with a series type regulator. I can't find more by disconnecting the stator for that matter. | ||
| Pinkpank |
Hey Aaron, Thanks - yeah, I looked up the fancy series regulator / battery tender from Crane (http://www.cas4.com/Electrical-Ignition/voltage-regulator-crane.html), but at over $100 more, I just went with the regular unit. Odd - Sport Twin wanted $107 plus shipping, but I would have to order off their site (could not locate the regulator other then by calling), and my local dealer quoted me $89 the first time around and $78 when I called back to order. Weird stuff. Last time when I ordered the "high" seat, it NEVER came in (waited a month or so). Is that typical confusion with Buell parts?!? The part number is supposed to be a "superceded" one, yes. Maybe my original dealer quote was for the original. Oliver | ||
| Libnosis |
Pinkpant Here's a good example of Buell part anamolies. I was quoted prices of $146 and $89 on a voltage regualtor for my 1998 S1W from different dealers. When inquiring about the difference in price, I was told the $89 one was for an M2 that had a different connector for the ground wire. Needlesstosay I changed the connector and kept my cash. lib | ||
| Hauck |
Would anybody know the benefits of having a single fire verses a dual fire? I know on the dual, a spark is wasted each time, but is there some down fall to this? | ||
| 99x1 |
Single fire is "suppose" to be smoother then dual fire, as unspent gases can ignite on the exhaust stroke - adding some vibration. (IMHO, this is probably in theory only.) The dual fire has some advantages in that the secondary of the coil is connected between both plug gaps, and the plug on the exhaust stroke takes quite a bit less voltage to fire (no compression) allowing a greater build up on the compression plug. The spark really isn't "wasted" unless you have two seperate coils. | ||
| Peter |
From the Daytona Twin Tec site.  PPiA | ||
| X1glider |
Good one Peter! | ||
| X1glider |
Twin Tec is who makes the ignition that Headquarters puts their name on. So, far it's been reliable. Brian Nallin was supposed to make a custom amp for me, but since he's moving...  | ||
| 99x1 |
From http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdignitionmodules.htm "No difference in horse power has been seen between a single and a dual fire engines in testing of 1994 stock 80 CID motors by Bike Tech using the same ignition and coil to test both modes." Maybe with high overlap cams it makes a difference? It would be interesting for someone to do Dyno charts with single vs dual..... John | ||
| Aaron |
"It would be interesting for someone to do Dyno charts with single vs dual..... " I've beat the snot out of a few bikes doing that. I'll post results when I get time. | ||
| Peter |
Has anyone tried a V Thunder ignition system? Any reports? Good, bad, ugly.....? PPiA | ||
| Aaron |
Yes. This was the ignition I first used on the RR1000. The first one was bad right out of the box, motor wouldn't rev past about 3500rpm. Fortunately, I had purchased a backup. It went bad during the first tuning session. By then, I had the warranty replacement back from the first one. It failed in the second tuning session. I put a Dyna 2000 on it and sold the warranty replacement units on E-bay. FWIW, when I sent the pair of bad units back to Comp Cams, they called me and said they checked out okay. But neither was working for me, and the Dyna worked perfectly. Not everyone has had trouble with them. Perhaps the electrical noise on that bike was causing them grief, I don't know. I just know the Dyna worked indefinitely and the V-thunders worked for awhile. | ||
| Ralph |
No problems with the V-thunder for me. I've got about three thousand miles on mine. At this point I doubt a problem will arise considering how fast Aarons went south. bighairyralph | ||
| Aaron |
Okay, it's posted. | ||
| 99x1 |
Wow, excellent article! Well written, very informative - answered exactly what I asked for in the earlier post! Thanks; John | ||
| Hauck |
So single fire it is, hey, it's cheaper too. Can't beat that. Thanks a lot Aaron John | ||
| Aaron |
It's cheap for you, considering you have an X1, which is single-fire from the factory  It ain't cheap coming from a dual-fire bike, though, and the evidence suggests that it doesn't bring a whole lot to the party on a stockish bike. | ||
| Pdxs3t |
Was wondering if someone could give me some input? I have a 2001 S3T that has 3500 miles on it with a full Buell race kit. The other day the bike wouldn't fire so I pulled the 10R12 plugs. Both plugs were completely fouled (very black) but dry. What would be the best way to resolve the richness of the bike to keep from fouling plugs so quickly? Jim | ||
| 99x1 |
Aaron wrote: "considering you have an X1, which is single-fire from the factory " My '99 X1 appears to have a single coil with two spark plug leads coming out of it - (looks stock) - it is dual fire? John | ||
| Aaron |
How many primary leads? bet it has 3 ... | ||
| Ccryder |
Pdxs3t: The Fuelies have a tendancy to do this if: 1: A sensor, IAT, O2, cyl. head, or TPS gets out of range or fails. 2: If the timing or TPS was not set correctly you could get this condition. 3: I have a friend with your same make, model, and year that had the same problem. His turned out to be the inside of the race kit silencer, at the front end, had fallen apart and was blocking the exhaust flow. This info has been covered under the "Engine - Carburetion, Fuel Injection and Fuel Delivery" section right above this one in the KV section. DO a search if my suggestions don't seem to work or you would like more info. Let us know what it turns out to be. Later Neil S. p.s. knock on wood my 00' X-3 has 32k+miles and it has the same plugs (Torquemaster), and injectors for it's whole life. I guess riding a lot and rarely letting it sit has it advantages over sitting and maybe gumming up. | ||
| 99x1 |
"How many primary leads? bet it has 3 ..." Yup, just checked - there is 3. In my defence, it LOOKS like a single coil! Thanks for the response; John | ||
| Mbsween |
Pdxs3t Look at what Neil said and then check the ecm codes. If you don't have a shop manual, call ASB or Sport twin, they have them, about 55.00 I think The codes will help tremendously in diagnosing the problem. If "the mothership" is listening give us some G**Damn software so we don't have to guess how many blinks we just saw! Search for my posts, I had the same problem. For me it was a bad engine temp sensor. Plugs fouled every 50 miles or so (of course the dealer would take it out for 5 miles on new plugs and declare it fixed, but thats another story) Good luck , keep asking if you need help. Matt | ||
| Pdxs3t |
Neil and Matt, Thanks for your input! I will check into all that you suggested. Will post the results as soon as I get it fugured out. Jim | ||
| Aesquire |
Has anyone used the S&S Intelligent Ignition system? The anti knock feature looks ideal for our application. | ||
| 99x1 |
I currently have the battery out of my 99 X1, and when getting my auto serviced - the mechanic put an adapter into the cigar lighter to keep the computer(s) memory ok when they disconnected the battery. So... Is it OK to leave an X1 (fuel injection/ECM/odometer?) unpowered for long periods? TIA; John | ||
| Peter |
John, I think they mainly do it in cars so as not to lose the security code/s in the radio etc. PPiA | ||
| Reepicheep |
The important bits are probably in flash ram, which is *"burned" into the chip. It will stay there with or without power. The only real risk to it is the stray subatomic particle, which almost never happens, and in that case power won't make a difference. (* OK, it's not really burned, but thats what they call it. Rather, a higher voltage is applied, the bits are set, and the higher voltage is removed. The device then runs normally on a lower voltage and the memory can be read, but not written. It can be rewritten later by reapplication of the higher voltage. This cycle can be repeated hundreds to thousands to millions of time, depending on the type and quality of the underlying media.) | ||
| 99x1 |
Thanks for the responses - I'll leave the battery out for the winter. Un-related: Has anyone turned the tilt sensor on an X1 90 degs so it would stop a wheelie at 55 degs? :> John |
