| Author | Message | ||
     Jim_Sb |
Gentlemen, here's where the saga stands.... Called Glendale Buell (where the bike was originally prepped and sold, and where I took the bike upon purchase a year ago to make sure it was up to snuff on recall items). They suggested calling Buell Customer Service (BCS). Called BCS this morning, after being on hold quite some time (15 - 20 minutes) finally got a machine asking for my name, phone #, VIN #, description of problem. Did not get called back. Put the S2 on my lift, pulled the wheel and took it to my local Indy HD guy (he always seems to have a good idea or two, although he finds Buells difficult to work on). He pronounced the hub too far gone for knurling or 'mottling'. He suggested a visit to a machinist in town... Machinist Joe, after examining the hub, recommended machining the hub out and sleeving the hub back to the proper press fit size. So that is my current plan. I picked up 2 new bearings locally (at Joe's request) and he has everything. Joe indicated he has done this to many motorcycle wheels in the past and he says I will be pleased with the results. We shall see. As a side note the new Castalloy wheels are appealing cost-wise since they cost about 55% what the Marchesini's do, but Buell's web site specifically says they are for the newer Buells only. Perhaps they won't fit an S2? PS. Joe charges $100 for this work. Seemed reasonable. The fact that he's about 5 blocks from my office is unbelievable. Hope it works. I'll try to get some digital pics in case anyone else runs into this problem. Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Here's a pic of my repaired rear wheel hub.  Jim in Santa Barbara | ||
| Hans |
Jim, Thanks, looks better than new. Hans | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Anyone know the formula or paint code for the white Marchesini wheels? This one needs to be repainted. Or the formula for the paint on the white frame? | ||
| Bads1 |
Jim I posted for you on bodywork, paint and frame.Info on your white wheels and frame there. | ||
| Crazymike |
Time for new tires. Any known problems with using a taller profile? Say a 120/80 or 120-90? Its no problem to raise the front fender. Slightly slower steering would suit me fine too. | ||
| X1glider |
Mike: Even tho air pressure is what supports the weight of the bike, the taller sidewalls will make the carcass flex and distort when called upon to turn. Very unstable, vague steering feel, and unsafe. Sounds to me like all you are trying to do is increase the tire's diameter and therefore circumferece so you can get some more mileage out of a tire. Don't be a cheap bastard. The one thing you don't skimp on is tires. It's not worth your life. Especially when you have to dodge tumbleweeds, roadrunners and rattlesnakes every day in AZ! | ||
| X1glider |
Jim, can you "feel" a difference with the repaired hub? It's an issue I've never experienced. $100 sounds good compared to a new wheel. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
X1glider, haven't mounted the wheel up yet. We had to pull the rotor and sprocket to machine the hub. Rotor bolts wouldn't come out until we persuaded them to move with a center punch. So they're toast. Went to SB Buell to buy or order new rotor bolts and their computer said "that part is discontinued". They suggested a hardware store. No joy to date and I've been to Honda / Kaw / Suz / Triumph and of course HD / Buell. I'm looking for a Duc dealership next... My bike is down because I can't find 4 metric countersunk bolts. Sheesh. | ||
| Mikej |
Jim, "Call Modesto". I think they lead the country in wheel fixes under warranty and should have a ready stock of those bolts you need. Or try a shop that sponsers a race team like Hal's or someone closer to you as they should have the bolts in stock as well. ps, let us know if you hear anyting about why the newer wheels are not listed as applicable to the S2's, thanks. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Thank you, MikeJ. Chris Matty came to the rescue (again), turns out the part # has been redone. Old Part # for S2 countersunk rear rotor bolts: #3495Y. New part #: #A1025.5CZ They are in my possession and I will be riding my S2 again SOON.  I'm not sure why SB HD/Buell didn't show the new part # on their computer - but I will mention it to them so they will know to check that next time. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Here's the final chapter in the rear hub saga.... Had tire mounted. Rotor went on just peachy. Sprocket would not go on at all. Turns out the the hub was spread just enough from the loose bearing that when we removed the sprocket (which took a gentle nudge with a rubber mallet) the outside diameter of the hub expanded slightly (at least that's our theory). It could be seen visually as the OD was greater the further away from the center of the wheel. After a quick debate I took it back to Joe the machinist who machined the OD of the hub to perfection - he charged me another $20. So, for $120 plus $30 for 2 new bearings my wheel is back on the bike. I very carefully set belt tension (it is looser than before) and I aligned it as well as I can - for now it seems to be tracking nearly perfectly down the center of the sprocket. Anyway, rode her today and she felt great. Really great. She has never felt better. Thanks to all for the advice and encouragement. | ||
| Cowboy |
?????? I rode a while this A M Temp. in mid. 30s.I rode all summer on my metzlers and was very happy with them. this is my 2nd. set geting great milage and handled ok. This A M I seemed to be having a traction prob. Is it just me or has any one else noticed this problem at this temp. | ||
| Budo |
Jim_Sb, sounds like you did very with your wheel. I had a bad rear wheel on my 1998 S1W. Modesto processed the paperwork for me and got me a new wheel. The wheel was a warranty item replaced by Buell at no charge. When I did this a year or so ago Deanne at Modesto said that every fifth or sixth bike she sees had a bad rear wheel. She said that she had warranted so many wheels that Buell acussed her of stealing wheels! Glad it worked out for you. | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Budo, that's pretty amazing info. The Indy guy who helps me care for the S2 felt the wheel was defective from the outset as well. 1 in 5 is pretty serious, except that maybe Modesto was handling more than their fair share of the problem, so perhaps it was a much lower failure rate overall. Anyway, the wheel works well now. We'll see how long it lasts. And I've got the belt set so loose it sags downward a teeny bit when the bike is at rest (unloaded). Bike seems to ride quite well this way, though. As for tires, I've been running the M-1 Sportecs and they have great grip, even on cold roads (up in the mountains). They don't last long, though. The rear is gone in about 3200 miles or so. The front does better. Cafe Bill has had good luck with Bridgestone BT-010's on his S3 - I may try those next. | ||
| Cowboy |
I guess I was having a mental problem. I rode allday yesterday, in east Tex. twisties the bike was flawless. Thanks anyway | ||
| Lornce |
Good Day Buell Fans, Does anyone know off-hand how much PM and Marchesini wheels weigh? Specifically, I'd like to know which is lighter. I could go peel tires etc, but I thought I'd check with ya'll first... tia, Lornce | ||
| Littledog1 |
Lornce, The actual weights are buried in the history here somewhere, as well as in a back issue of Battle 2 Win. The bottom line is that the PMs are heavier than the Marchesini's, by about 10 oz. to 1 lb. each (I think). The rear PM is .5 inch wider though. Mickey | ||
| Lornce |
Thanks Mickey, That's sorta what I thought. Guess I'll leave the Marchesini's on the S1 for track use. One more question: are these PM wheels actually chromed aluminum or coated highly polished aluminum? Thanks for the info, Lornce | ||
| Blake |
Polished Aluminum. | ||
| Lornce |
Thanks Blake, that's what I thought. So why all the reference to 'chrome wheels'? Zit just a Harley holdover shiny stuff fixation thing? Lornce | ||
| Jrh |
Yah,like Mickey says,the PMs are heavier. Reg K. showed the 5 spoke Marchesini magnesium alloy saved 7lb.14oz. over the stock Buell style Castalloys(thats total-both wheels) Then he shaved about 2 more pounds by using Braking Wave rotors.He did'nt show what the spun PMs weigh but they're a little heavier than even the castalloys judging by my unofficial pick one type up in each hand test. | ||
| Rick_A |
Yeah...they're heavy but look super cool  IMO they're the best looking of them all...but if I had the money I'd get the magnesium Marchesini's. They come in race and slightly heavier street versions. There are race weight PM's too, but they're not recommended for the street either. | ||
| Henrik |
S2 Front Brake Caliper question: I've been spoiled by the good brakes on the S3 and the SV650, and now sorely need better braking for the S2. The front caliper is the old PM version, and supposedly there are only a few types of pads available: 1) EBC green; pretty pathetic (scary actually) 2) Ferrodo: Italian make - supposed to be good, but hard to get 3) Tat sells another brand pads, that I haven't had a chance to try yet - I forget the name. I'd been running the EBC Green until I swapped the original brake rotor for the Y2K stainless replacement. The front brake is now pretty much useless. I wrote PM asking if they knew of any other pads that would fit that caliper - they of course didn't reply. So, does anyone know of a 6-pot caliper with a bolt pattern similar to the old PM? I figure there has to be something, since all the Pro Thunder and Lightning racers were running the WP Roma forks back in the day. Has anyone had success with other brand brake pads on the stainless rotor? Henrik | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Interesting, Henrik. I really like the PM 6 pot caliper on my '96 S2. I think it works great. Fingertip braking. I have purchased a set of EBC pads from ASB but haven't needed to put them on yet. Put a new set on the rear and they have worked fine. Of course I'm used to Sportster braking which is basically the same method used by the Flintstones...  | ||
| Ara |
Has anyone got some miles on a Braking wave brake disk on a tube-framed Buell? If so, I'd really like to know what you think. Also interested in what brake pads you're using. Please ping me at seriousfun3@yahoo.com. Thanks! Russ | ||
| Henrik |
Jim: if you're still running the stock cast iron rotor, you're getting much better grip with the stock/EBC green pads than I'm getting with the Stainless rotor. Henrik | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Henrik, that explains it. I still have the stock rotor. I guess I'm behind the curve. | ||
| Dave |
At $25-$30 a go, I'm looking for a do-it-yourself tire balancer and tire changing tools. I saw this for balancing http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motorcycle-products/balancer/index.htm Any other suggestions/source for tire tools and a balancer? Is there something simpler available? DAve | ||
| Jmartz |
Dave: I have the metzeler brand balancer, Quite similar except that it uses a pair of cones that slide into the bearing opening and center. A 3/8 (or so, its probably metric) rod extends between the balancer bearings. It seems to work pretty well. Takes a bit to find the approximate balance point. |
