| Author | Message | ||
     Pjd2ss |
Just picked up my new (to me) XB9S. I'd really like to remove the exhaust header and have it coated. But it sounds like this might be a real bear? Do you really have to drop the back of the engine to remove the header? Any tricks or tooling that can make the job easier? | ||
| Rr_eater |
PJ, it is really not all that tuff to rotate the engine down to remove the rear bolts. Its a scary sounding job, but once you do it, you will be like "well that was all??" Basically, remove everything on top, air box cover, inner air box lid, lower airbox cover, and the rubber velocity stack from the throttlebody. Loosen and remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever. Remove one bolt from the upper lateral torque link (take the one out from the engine mount side). Then remove the muffler slip-on. At this point, either a pair of axle stands (What I use and prefer, way more stable) or rear swingarm stand is needed. Set the bike up on the stand. Now you will need either a screw jack or floor jack, and place it under the crankcase, with just enough support to take the weight off the engine mounts. The remove the forward engine cage, or "V" bracket some call it, by the 3 allen bolts, and just let it hang on the motor. remove all the left scoop and right side plastic cylinder covers. Remove the outer bolt on the right side lateral link above the right foot peg. NOW VERY CAREFULLY, jack up the engine a little, to unload the forward engine mount "jesus" bolt, the large one under the tripple tree. Once broken free, it should turn easily, if NOT, then either jack or lower the engine a TAD untill it loosens up, and spin it all the way out. Once that is done, the engine is "free" so to speak, so VERY CAREFULLY lower the engine forward VERY slowly, watching and listening for any binding or anything catching ANYWHERE. It will only need to go down about 4-5 inches, and the rear header bolts are easily accessed then. The rest is pretty self explanatory. Installation is reverse of removal, literally. YOU REALLY NEED a service manual though, so you have all the torques right there for installation. And dont forget the anti-seize on the "jesus" bolt. Get the service manual, and it is a piece of cake man!! Bruce | ||
| M1combat |
Yeah... Get the service manual and only use it for the torque specs. It indicates that you need to remove a good deal more stuff than you actually do. One thing you DO need to do is loosen the coil... It's easy, only two bolts. You don't need to remove the plug wires though. All the wires that come from the tail section and have plugs right behind the Vstack... un-plug them. Loosen the clutch cable (on my "R" I didn't actually have to remove it at either end but keep reading) at the adjuster right in fron of the engine. Loosen it as much as you can. As the engine rotates, the cable will catch on the front of the primary cover, push it to the side of the primary cover and you're good to go. Keep an eye out for it while lowering the engine. Actually, like rr_eater said... Keep an eye out for anything that starts to bind  . Go slow. It's really not very difficult. I've swapped a header by engine rotation and I've swapped an O2 sensor by going in from the top... If I had a jack with me when I swapped the O2 sensor, I would have rotated the engine again in a heartbeat. To note... Swapping an O2 sensor in a parking lot in the AZ sun with just a T27, Crows foot, 3" and 6" extension, wobbly and ratchet CAN be done... But don't try it unless you NEED to... | ||
| Mxer83 |
thanks for the info guys, I had a minor crash on my 2003 xb9r, I dinged the headers up a little bit but found used ones to replace it. This bike is going to be a track bike so I figure this is a good way to learn motor rotation, thanks again, Greg |
