| Author | Message | ||
     Shooter |
Hey everybody,for those of you who remember me and my S-3,my ride-ability issues remain after 30k plus miles...but now its gotten so bad I can't commute on her any more which sucks.Help me stay out of the stealership!! first question: If I am using the check engine lamp method (blink blinkey blink) of troubleshooting, will the code clear immediately after the issue has been resolved, or must you re-start, run the motor closed/open loop, check the codes again? I have 4 codes registering, and its getting a little frustrating to keep putting the tank on and off not to mention the tail section... The codes I have are: 13: 02 sensor 15: IAT sensor (this code has been set on my bike for 25k miles) 33: Rear Fuel Injector 34: Fuel Pump The FSM says start with the lowest code. O2 sensor: replace with Bosch unit, ran better for about a day. Checked wiring for continuity, good.Replaced with OEM Buell unit I found in the garage, code doesn't clear. IAT sensor: This code came in at about 5k miles.(30K on bike now) Replaced it twice, checked wiring for continuity o.k. Never seemed to make a difference. Fuel Pump: This is a new one...replaced filter, check output, all good. Rear Fuel Injector: Also a new code. Checked resistance of injector, good. Checked for fuel spray out of the spark plug hole,good. Checked coil resistances, pri and sec., good. Checked spark plug wire resistance, good. Plugs appear to be ok, replaced. Symptoms: Really bad misfire under load, backfire thru exhaust , getting worse. any and all suggestions appreciated. | ||
| Chief |
Really bad misfire under load and getting worse sounds like your battery may be going bad to me. I had these same symptoms in my x-1 when my battery took a dump. The battery had enough umph to start the bike but under hard load things didnt sound so good. I would also check for any cracks in the exhaust header near the head, I had some and it caused a small intermittent backbire under load. | ||
| Buellistic |
Replace "BATTERY" every two years and keep battery on trickle charger when not riding, WORKS FOR ME !!! | ||
| Shooter |
Replaced the battery yesterday, because the 2 year old Odyssey I had in there was interfering with my being able to troubleshoot the bike. I do not believe it was casuing my issues, becasue it was reading over 13 vdc when the bike was running and acting up. btw, don't believe the hype on those Odysessy batteries.It never had the CCA a oem battery had. I hate to admit it , but sometimes OEM is better. I am real tempted to replace the ecm, but I do not like shotgunning parts at a problem. Question about the ecm trouble codes...are they initiated when a value is out of range, or when reference ground thru the sensor is lost, or both??? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Shooter, When running above idle, the battery should read slightly above 14 volts. If you are only at 13V, that could be a problem with the battery or the charging circuit. Brad | ||
| Shooter |
Brad, thanks for the reply, and your correct. The voltage was climbing , so I assume the the stator and voltage reg. are good. | ||
| 99x1 |
I think you have to start with the first problem (the IAT), as it may be causing the O2 problems. You may be right in suspecting the ECM - it has a regulated reference voltage that it puts out to the sensors. If you put a meter right on the IAT pin going into the ECM, and then alternately put the IAT in iced water and boiling water, you should see the voltage change with temperature. Common problem on the tuber FI bikes is the fuel injector wiring rubbing on the throttle cables - causes fault when throttle turned. The front and rear injector are the same, and can easily be swapped. The O2 sensor can be checked with a propane torch (search KV). Check the FI ground connection (rear of tank on frame). The injectors and coils are fed 12 volts to one side, and the ECM closes the ground side to fire them - check the positive side is near battery voltage. Stock ECMs are cheap on eBay - currently there is one at $0.99.... | ||
| Blake |
Fuel showing up in the combustion chamber and out the spark plug hole is not a fool-proof confirmation that your injectors are operating properly. Suggest replacing injectors. Suggest verifying static timing. Need more info on behavior of engine. How does it idle, cruise, accelerate (part throttle versus wide open throttle), are symptoms consistent versus engine rpm or worse in some areas versus others? I also second concentrating on the IAT circuit. | ||
| Shooter |
Blake thanks for the response... Bike starts, idles and pulls fine when cold. Isssues begin after bike is up to temp (10-15 minutes into my ride) After it's warm, it will not idle, backfires thru the exhaust under load and misses at cruise. I have already replaced the cylinder head temp sensor. | ||
| Shooter |
ok, spent some more time on the bike and found that the + voltage wire to the IAT sensor was open at the connector inside the airbox...did a patch job with solderless connectors and bammo...all 5 codes are clear for now. Will be riding to work this morning, hopefully all is good.Thanks for the advise. | ||
| Blake |
Excellent! Way to call it John (99X1)!   | ||
| Shooter |
4 days ( 8 cold starts) later, it's still running well and not spitting out codes. I hope this thread wil be helpful to somebody in the future.Does any body know a source for the oem style electrical connectors? |
