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Pinkpank
| Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 10:58 am: |
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Quick charging system question . . . . Had some problems starting the "new" 2000 M2 Cyclone - felt like the battery was low, every time. So I hooked it on the charger, and after 4 hours at 1.5 amps it started fine. Problem is, I can't figure out WHY the battery was dead even after a reasonably long ride. Do these bikes tend to lose their alternators (or generators or whatever they have)? I hooked up my trusty VOM and found that the battery was at 13.4V while charging, dropped to 12.3V when the charger was disconnected and the lights/ignition are on, but only came up to 12.4V when I started the bike. I saw no increase in voltage taking the engine off idle. Is it normal for these bikes to only show 12.4V when the engine is beyond idle? As soon as I shut if off, the battery dropped to 12.3V again, so I know there is SOME charging going on, but I suspect it's not enough. Thanks for any advice and/or numbers off somebody else's M2 . . . Oliver oliver@pinkpank.com |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 12:40 pm: |
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Check the AC output of your stator, and the DC output of the regulator. Losing a stator is not unheard of on the sporty motors. Happened to me a few months ago. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 01:19 am: |
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Oliver: Like Hootowl said, you need to check the VR and the stator output. One real common issue is the 2 pin plug right at the oil pump is not secured with a wire tie after the new front header support is installed. Another issue is that the VR bracket might not be grounded properly after the header support change. If you need the tests for the VR and stator let me know and I'll send you the PDF file. Later Neil S. |
Pinkpank
| Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 02:04 am: |
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Thanks - I'll check the VR and stator outputs independently. Neil S sent me the PDF of the electrical stuff, I'll dig into that, too. Always a pain to get a "new" barely used toy and find these types of glitches . . . ;-0 Oliver |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, October 20, 2002 - 12:19 am: |
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In case anybody needs a headlight, here's a website. http://www.webparts.com/cycles/productdetail.cfm?ID=1147 |
Pinkpank
| Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2002 - 05:26 pm: |
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So do electrical questions (i.e. voltage regulator) belong in the "Engine - Electronics and Ignition" or in the "Electrical - Starter, Lights, Switches, and Guages" section?!? I'm just trying to confirm that the part number "Y0302.F" that I just ordered for $78.26 really *IS* the voltage regulator for my 2000 M2 Cyclone. These sub-boards are pretty slow . . . ;-0 TIA |
Chainsaw
| Posted on Sunday, October 27, 2002 - 01:38 pm: |
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Kuryakyn Neo-Pods Has anyone out there tried these? I'm leaning towards putting some blue one's on the XB. I think they would do very well to improve my bike's visibility at night, and daylight around here is wanning fast. I have a couple of concerns, one being the geek factor. Would it look cool, or more like I'm trying to look like one of those Focus-Neo-Acura thingies? My other concern is wiring, like how much extra I'm gonna need. Best I can tell is I can go 9 inches from the power switch in either direction, but the online literature is not entirely specific. Any firsthand knowledge of these puppies would be greatly appreciated! |
Ccryder
| Posted on Monday, October 28, 2002 - 10:03 pm: |
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Chainsaw: I hadn't seen those before but they look pretty neat. Wiring on them should not be too much of an issue depending on where you want to put them. You might also want to look at: Radiantz Boogey Flush LED Check these out. Neil S. |
Chainsaw
| Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 11:10 pm: |
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Thanks for the heads up! The Neo-pods look pretty good...hmmm...winter project... |
Lake_Bueller
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 04:40 pm: |
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Lighting question....Is there a guideline (or law) as to how bright a headlight must be? I'm looking at a customization job to the front of my Buell. Something small yet powerful is my ultimate objective. Oh yeah...I live in Wisconsin (if that makes any difference). Mennis |
Muleheadjoe
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2002 - 06:50 pm: |
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My '01 Blast has a short circuit ... the fuse for the turn signals keeps burning out (I've gone through a box of 15 fuses already), and a circuit tester found current in the frame ... Local dealer charges $75/hour for labor, minimum 1.5 hours labor for non-warranty repairs, so I am HIGHLY motivated to fix this one myself. Where to start? I have no real experience with either electrical or general motorcycle repairs, however circuit testing seems to indicate that the short is somewhere between the front turn signals and the fuse box. But I can't see where the wires go ... do I have to take the fuel tank off to access the wiring harnesses? Anybody got experience in chasing short circuits? Please post any responses in this forum, I'll come back here to soak up your wisdom. Thanks! |
Hootowl
| Posted on Saturday, November 02, 2002 - 01:30 am: |
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Check for water/corrosion in your turn signal flasher. It is NOT a sealed unit. |
99x1
| Posted on Saturday, November 02, 2002 - 04:22 pm: |
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"the fuse for the turn signals keeps burning out (I've gone through a box of 15 fuses already), and a circuit tester found current in the frame ... " Connect a 12volt bulb across the fuse terminals instead of a fuse. Disconnect stuff and/or move wires until the lamp goes out. Good luck... John |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2002 - 10:05 am: |
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Had my '99 X1 ignition switch go flakely - drilled it apart and there is evidence of burning at the contact plate (plastic melted underneath). It appears all the power (except for the starter) goes throught the key switch - unlike most bikes which have at least a headlight relay (that also turns the headlight off during starting). A search shows other X1s have had burnt / intermittent switches. When adding stuff (like electric vests), it might be best to connect at the battery (fused of course), rather then add more load to the key switch. [rant] The design of the X1 electrics is strange - while waiting for the engine lamp to go out prior to starting, the lights, fuel pump, etc.. takes the "top" off the battery - making it harder to start (and harder on batteries) then it should be. [/rant] John |
Chainsaw
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2002 - 12:27 pm: |
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Lake Bueller: I believe a 55 watt low beam and a 60 watt high beam is 50 state legal, and OEM. I would recommend a non-sealed beam headlight (changeable bulb), as it is easier to find a replacement bulb than a replacement light when you are in BFE. |
Rick_A
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2002 - 01:48 pm: |
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uhmmm...would two 30 watt halogens do it? That's 60 watts all together |
Robbchap
| Posted on Wednesday, November 06, 2002 - 01:46 pm: |
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Hello I recently taken the stater off my S1W so that I could paint it and the inside magnets and gear asembly kinda fell out. I can see easily how it fits back together but I cann't hold back the brushes and at the same time put back in, the insides. Does anybody have experience with this? |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2002 - 11:52 pm: |
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HELP!! I was winterizing my S1 today, and after changing the oil & washing it, started her up. After running for a couple of minutes, the starter started engaging, 5 seconds on, 5 seconds off, etc. as I ran to shut her off. I flipped the kill switch back on, and the starter engaged again! I let her sit for a few minutes, and she seemed to return back to normal. Gremlins?? Has anyone had a similar experience? And if so, what was the solution? (Al Lighton, are you lurking? I seem to remember you having a similar problem a while back, but don't remember the fix!) Any help, as always, is GREATLY appreciated! Hogster |
Al_Lighton
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 11:09 am: |
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Michael, Mine stayed engaged during a short ride from the gas station, and stayed running even after I'd shut the engine down. But it didn't re-engage at any point after I got it stopped. And it hasn't done it since. However, I did receive the following from a badwebber, you may find it helpful: "Disconnect the battery, remove the three screws from the end of the starter. remove the plunger. clean the two contacts under it with emery cloth. Clean the bottom side of the copper washer on the plunger. You will find burn marks on it from where it stuck." Since mine hasn't done it since, I haven't done any of that. Hopefully you will be as lucky as me and you can just ignore it! Al |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2002 - 11:21 pm: |
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Thanks Al, sounds like something to add to my list of winter projects Mike |
Madstuka
| Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2002 - 07:13 pm: |
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My son accidentally knocked off my right rear turn signal while riding his bicycle. It was broken off, but still worked. I found some nice Lockhart Philips replacements but I haven't been able to get them working. The front turn signals stopped working when I removed the rear left signal. Is that normal or did I somehow screw something up? I checked the fuse, its good, and the taillight is operating properly. Could it be the flasher? Pat |
Skulley
| Posted on Saturday, November 30, 2002 - 12:23 am: |
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Has anyone tried to mount a XB9S headlight assembly to a tuber yet? |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 06:44 am: |
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Anyone had this problem ??? turn on key ( 00 X1) hear fuel pump kick in, all the lights work. I push the start button, and nothing, not even a click. This has happened 3 times in the last month. Any input would be appreciated. Steve |
Road_Thing
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 08:39 am: |
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Steve: Check your starter relay! r-t |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 09:51 am: |
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r-t: I checked the relay and it's good. If it would do it all the time I'm sure it would be easier to figure out. All I can think of is a bad wire someplace so I thought someone here might have had the same problem. Oh well I'm gonna strip it down anyhoo, so I will chase some wires down then. Thanks |
Road_Thing
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 10:08 am: |
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Steve: When the relay on my S1 went bad, it failed intermittently for a couple of weeks before it quit altogether. Good luck! Any little Steve-lets yet? r-t |
99x1
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 11:26 am: |
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>turn on key ( 00 X1) hear fuel pump kick in, all the lights work. I push the start button, and nothing, not even a click. ------------------------- If the sidestand is up (closed), the ignition relay can operate (power to fuel pump), but the starter relay still needs the neutral switch or clutch switch to operate. With the side stand down and key switch on, check if the pump starts by pulling the clutch lever in while in gear, or selecting neutral on the gear box. If the diode is open the neutral lamp will still work, but not operate the start relay. The clutch switch is not sealed and is kinda flimsy (IMHO). Good luck; John |
Roadrunr
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 12:25 pm: |
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No mini me yet r-t, should be about a week we hope.... Thanks for the input guys. Steve |
Sparky
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 04:40 pm: |
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Make sure the blade contact connector (small gauge wire) is connected at the starter motor. That is the wire from the starter relay. It can be pulled out indavertently causing nothing to happen when you push the start button. It happened to me twice, you should verify it's seated. Sparky |
V2win
| Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 07:59 pm: |
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Runner, If I had to pick just one thing, I'm with Road_Thing on this one. Same thing happened on my S3T. After about a month, it failed altogether, thus allowing me to find the problem and make a final fix. |
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