| Author | Message | ||
     B2m2 |
MikeJ & Ara: thanks for the info. I guess my greatest heartache is that the tire has only 600 miles on it. It looks like my most economical option (since it was only a nail hole) is to patch it on the inside and try not to ride it over 140 mph. Ha, Ha. Thanks again!! | ||
| Bykergeek |
Anyone using Dunlop D220s ? My Firebolt is almost at 3000 miles and I would like to see a few more miles between rear tires (currently Buell OEM D207 ZR). No chicken strips but I don't think I ride'm very hard (comparitively). Most of my riding is Sport/Tour oriented. | ||
| Noface |
I've got the 220's on my Firebolt. They work pretty good, and I like them so far. I can't really tell any difference in cornering performance. But then again, I don't drag my knees. Yet! Jody | ||
| Iamike |
Don, I have switched back & forth between the 205s & 207s. I usually got 7-8k with the 207s, on the 205 I had one rear last me 5k & the next, 9k (go figure). I don't keep track of what type of riding I'm doing at the time but that must be the difference. I just put some 220s on and they seem to have a little more tread than the '5s. I haven't done any real hard conering yet but they do roll over nicely when I lean. On most of our curves around here you have to be doing 80-90 to get any good lean going on. At that speed those steel curve markers just say ouch! | ||
| Bykergeek |
I ordered a new Bridgestone BT020 for the XB's rear from Chaparral ($103.95) this week. If it handles anything like the BT56 that came on my Triple and I can get almost 5k miles out of it, I'll be thrilled. | ||
| Jdbuellx1 |
Something strange happened today, after a good hard aggressive ride, my rear rotor started to tic very loud after I parked it, it sounded very similar to the noises that an engine would make when cooling down. I've never heard it do this before and was just wondering if this is normal or if it is something I need to investigate more thoroughly. A friend of mine recently told me that a friend of his had the rear brake lock up at 100mph on a X-1, don't want this to happen to me! If anyone could help me out here I'd appreciate it. Justin | ||
| Jdbuellx1 |
Bykergeek Don't go to plad. (In reference to your top speed of ludicrous in your profile, I gather you got that from Spaceballs. Funny, that movie always cracks me up). | ||
| Roc |
I managed to bend my front wheel today, a Marchesini that came on my S1. Are there any other bikes that come with this wheel? The left side of the rim is bent out maybe ¼”, any chance of a repair? | ||
| Josh |
Roc, MC Wheel fixed my rear PM wheel for me. Certainly not show quality but it's balanced and looks ok. Josh | ||
| Josh |
Blake sed: >Dot 3 and 4 are mixable with each other. DOT 4 has superior properties. Use DOT 4 or fluid rated for DOT 3&4 or DOT 3/4. For those late to the conversation, my RS manual says the bike has either DOT3 or DOT4 and I asked if I could tell what I had. Update to the story: the front brake reservoir cover says "DOT5." Ahem. So any way to tell DOT3/DOT4/DOT5? Anyone know what the 92 RS ran in its system? I'm beginning to suspect I have a very late RS and it's running several '92 parts. | ||
| Blake |
Josh, Try DOT 6!  Seriously though. Take a small sample and mix it with DOT 5. If it mixes, it is DOT 5. If it stays separated like oil and vinegar, it is DOT 3/4. DOT 5 is usually a purple color, but it does fade with age and/or exposure to moisture. Also, water will combine with DOT 3/4 but not with DOT 5, which is silicon based. | ||
| Josh |
Cool. Thanks. | ||
| Josh |
Blake, Thanks for the tip. Update to my update. Aaron's RS runs DOT3/4. The 92 RS/RSS manual says DOT5. Mine runs DOT5. Henrik, I'm doing your bleeder trick. Only found a 5cc syringe so I used a MityVac to flush/fill, then the syringe method to bleed. Worked good on the S3. The RS is taking it's sweet time. Might be just the inferior HD master cylinder. Thanks, Josh | ||
| Kaese |
I have had my 96 S2 for about 2 weeks now and the rear brake lever does not return to the neutral, not on position. The beast has only 10K miles and I am almost positive the fluid has never been replaced. The fluid is not clear, but a light brown color. I find myself using the rear brake as little as possible, which is not a good thing. Since replacing the DOT 5 fluid is the first logical step, and bleeding the brake is a pain, should I get a rebuild kit for the master and caliper to save myself the agony of bleeding the brake more than one time? | ||
| Blake |
Nah, just disassemble, clean and reassemble. You shouldn't use the rear brake much anyway.  | ||
| Ncbueller |
All Right All You Buell Experts Who knows what UJM bike the Nissin Caliper and master cylinder was sourced from? We want to upgrade to Dual Front Disks, but do not want to spend the $ that Brembo, Torjan Horse, and other want for the upgrades. There must be a donor bike out there somewhere that will provide what we need. Thanks | ||
| Buell_Freak |
Can someone help me with the brake bleeding process. I can not get a firm lever. I have heard of bleeding the brakes thru the bleeder up. How is this done?? Please help.. I am not quite sure if this system is alot different than a cars, but it seems to be. Thanks, Kevin | ||
| Josh |
Hey Kevin, Long time no see. >>> I actually like bleeding brakes - after finding "The Way" (pun intended). Get a 50 cc syringe and a 5-6" piece of clear plastic tubing; I.D. should fit the tip/nipple of the syringe and the bleeder nipple of course. Attach the tubing to the syringe, making sure the fit is air-tight (a skinny wire tie cinched tight around the hose/nipple will help). After completely draining the system, remove the bleeder nipples and wrap the treads with a few wraps of teflon tape - explanation follows. Fill the syringe with new brake fluid. Make sure the keep the hose submerged in the brake fluid while filling; if it starts "slurping" you'll get lots of little bubbles in the new fluid = more air to bleed out of the system after filling. 1) Put the wrench on the bleeder nipple and a rag under it. Flip the syringe/hose so the hose points up; press syringe piston to expell most of the air and completely fill the tube with brake fluid. Slip the hose over the bleeder nipple trying to avoid air in the hose. Hold the syringe above the brake caliper - any air remaining should rise to the syringe itself. 2) Loosen the bleeder nipple and inject fluid into the system until you see the fresh fluid in the reservoir - fill it half way. 3) Now, here's the real trick; without tightening the bleeder nipple, pump the brake lever - it will pump fluid back into the syringe. Don't pump more than there is always enough fluid in the reservoir to prevent pumping air into the system. Keep alternating between injecting fluid from the brake caliper and pumping it back out with the brake lever. The flow will carry most of the air out either at the brake caliper, where it will rise in the syringe so it doesn't get injected back into the system, or out into the reservoir. The teflon on the bleeder nipple threads will keep fluid from seeping out and air from seeping in around the treads. 4) Tap the brake line to dislodge any remaining bubbles and pump back and forth a few more times to flush them out of the system. Tighten the bleeder nipple. 5) Sometimes air will get trapped in the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. As Blake said, keeping gentle pressure on the brake lever and loosening the banjo bolt a hair, until fluid seeps out, may get rid of that air. A good investment is a banjo bolt with a bleeder nipple in it. That way you can use the syringe to flush that part of the system as well. 6) put the lid on the reservoir and let the bike sit overnight. Tap the brake lines again and repeat step 3), but make sure you pump from brake system to syringe as the first step. Air trapped at the top of the caliper will be pushed out. Air trapped at the master cylinder will stay where it is for this first pump -gravity, don't ya know. All this sounds laborious and time consuming, but once you're set up, it'll take less than 15 minutes to do a dual caliper front brake set-up to perfection. Henrik >>> Note I could only find a 5cc syringe and neglected to hit up Henrik for a large one when I saw him last. So I used a MityVac to change the fluid (using their method) then used Henriks to bleed. Worked great. Take care taping the threads. Josh | ||
| Henrik |
Funny you should mention it - I've got one in my bag for you as I type - great minds and all that Henrik | ||
| Court |
>>>>I've got one in my bag for you as I type - great minds and all that If you had a SUPERIOR mind, you'd bring TWO | ||
| Ocbueller |
Kevin, Walk away from it for a little while, when you come back you should feel an improvement. It may still require some more bleeding after that. I also have a vacuum pump I use occasionally. Cracking the joint at the master cylinder and hose can also be used to bleed. SteveH | ||
| Buell_Freak |
Thanks Everyone... Josh the quick reply's are awsome. Thank you..... I was semi put down when my wife after asking me how I figured it out and I told her I just tinkered with it until it worked, saw the print out of this page on my bench and did the evil chuckle. Any way the front brake is right now, as soon as the indicator clicks it is firm. Steve...you have got to check out the new place sometime when you are free, I have work space after all this time. Kevin D. PS Mouse won't leave me alone about he muffler account. Calls it Buell crap!!!!! | ||
| Buell_Freak |
sorry "THE MUFFLER ACCOUNT" | ||
| Henrik |
Can't remember where the wheel balancer discussion was going on, but here are some of the links I found when I was looking for one: http://www.klsupply.com/wheel/WheelTruing/ http://www.wikco.com/mcwkbal.html http://www.tireqwik.com/tireqwik/body_balancer.html http://www.spec2.com/shop.html http://www.handyindustries.com/swb.asp http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store (look for "Tire Tools" The TireQuick site has some pretty good info on what you need and "how to's" for DIY tire changing. Henrik | ||
| Mrossi |
Hi everybody out there, After NCbueller, me too would like to upgrade my '00 X-1 to dual front brakes and I was told by my local HD shop that the Nissin caliper is identical to the Kawasaki GPZ 750 '92 or '93 mod ; can anyone out there confirm it ? And also would I need to shim it or modify in any way ? They also expressed some doubts that the stock pump would handle 2 calipers, also confirmations. As for the disk, a stock right disk reversed would do, I suppose. Thanks for any advice M. Rossi | ||
| Henrik |
*If* the kawi calipers are identical, you should be able to use the same master cylinder bore as the Kawi set-up. Compare what you find with the stamping on your Buell MC and that'll give you an idea. Henrik | ||
| Brentx1 |
The cylinder bore is crucial, and the stock master will NOT accomidate dual disks. It will work, but not as responsive as if you had the correct bore. | ||
| Jmartz |
I'm considering replacing the wheels on my S1. They are PM's and have quite a bit of rash, dings and a bend. I hear Marchesine has discontinued wheels for Buells. What other alternatives are there? | ||
| Buelliedan |
The new Buell wheels are made by Castaloy. I think they are out of Australia. Just search e-bay under Buell. There are always one or two sets of Buell wheels available for reasonable prices. Heres a set not too badly priced: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873096091 | ||
| Jim_Sb |
Marchesini Hub Failure? Got a new Sportec M-1 for the rear of my S2 today. The mechanic mounting the tire noticed both my outer and inner bearings were loose inside the hub. The bearings themselves looked fine and appeared fine. I can't imagine why these bearings would be loose inside the hub. He indicated they should be "press fit" bearings, and should not move around or come out so easily. As a result when the wheel is mounted on the bike it has a bit of movement. Not good. Anyone else hear of this happening to a Marchesini wheel? My '96 S2 has only 9,300 miles since new (I bought her a year ago with only 3,100 miles). Any good ideas? Jim in Santa Barbara Depressed about my wheels... |
