| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Thanks for sharing that. Also, an operational battery in good condition should show at least 13V, 13.4V fully charged. | ||
| Dstroj |
OK...putting this in here because it seems to fit...I'll be brief. Problems started around Springtime where my bike (2000 X1 w/K&N filter in stock airbox, PC3, Daytona Boss muffler) was getting jittery from time to time. Eventually it got so bad I didn't want to ride anymore. Tore it apart and found the TPS lead to the PC grouding out...also added high perf O2 sensor...fixed somewhat, ran better but never like when it was new. Been jittery when trying to maintain constant RPMs at all levels, sometimes sounds like it's running on one cyl during idle at startup. New plugs and wires, gas types, oil, tranny fluid multiple times--nothing helps. A friend of mine at an auto shop figured it could be the coil so he tested it at .9Ohms on primary and 12.6KOhms on secondary. Problem solved? Any damage to anything if this is the case? (I've been thinking about the Race ECM also...worth it?) Thanks a bunch! This is my first bike ever ridden and owned and I love it to pieces...10000 miles coming up soon. My friends on their imports think I'm nutz, but it's just too much fun to ever part with. | ||
| Blake |
Dstroj, I'd toss the PC3 and try a straight race ECM. You will need to have the race ECM calibrated for your bikes TPS at the throttle fully closed (idle screw backed out fully). Factory and dealers call this procedure "rezeroing the TPS" even though it is actually a resetting of the ECM whereby the TPS is never touched or adjusted. You might also check for intake leaks (spray WD40 or other similar aerosol liquid around intake manifold seals with engine at a fast idle, drop in idle indicates a leaking seal). The race ECM is a total engine control module affecting timing/advance curves where the PC3 is just an EFI augmentation module. From what I understand proper mapping of a PC3 can require days on a dyno. Buell has already done that work for us for mildly enhanced engine performance kits; the race ECM should be the first step. With more radical performance modifications approaching 100 RWHP, the PC3 may be beneficial. | ||
| Rempss |
Dan - See starting: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3591.html?1030368571#POST118621 Based on Blakes info, get the Race ECM. You are nuts. Jeff | ||
| Ocbueller |
Dstroj, Sounds like the classic intake seal leak. I'm about to replace mine. Nice X1 by the way. | ||
| Barryx1m |
Can anyone who has had a Head Temp Sensor fail provide the symptoms that existed? My X1 is running too rich and I was wondering if a faulty HTS could cause this. Does the HTS operate as an on/off switch, in that a cold engine/sensor sends no signal until it reaches a certain temp? Bike runs great until fully warmed up... Already replaced 02... | ||
| Blake |
Barry, Lets start from square one on this... You say your X1 is running too rich. What makes you say that? | ||
| Rempss |
The ETS is a thermistor, the ECM send 5+- volts to it, ETS then grounds to the head. It reads high voltage when cold - higher resistance to ground, lower voltage when hot - lower resistance to ground. Not an on/of device. A good ETS should read 33761-74328 ohms resistance between the connector and the body of the unit at room temperature (60-90 degrees F). See the service manual for more info. Manual shows black smoke / fouls plugs (rich) as - engine temp circuit, clogged air filter, improper TPS adjustment, leaking injectors or improper fuel pressure. Again see service manual for diagnostics. But, do let us know what makes you think rich mixture? Jeff | ||
| Joel |
Barry My ETS went bad at about 2000mi. Main issue was after warm up if left to idle more than a moment it would cough, sputter and buck for the first 100ft or so. Plugs were black and it puffed black smoke coming off idle. Dealer replaced it under warranty. Life is good now. Joel | ||
| Barryx1m |
No longer running rich, had all the symptoms...black plugs, stumbling (not popping) under hard acceleration in higher gears.. well as fate would have it, I snagged an almost new buell race exhaust cheap this weekend. The apparent rich condition is gone and the bike accelerates hard and clean, I love it! But In the would of Buell not all good things last forever! It has developed a noticeable stammer at steady speed around 3000-3500 RPM, almost like a vague sporatic misfire, but under hard throttle no problem. I think the plugs DPR8EA-9 may have fouled from getting stuck in traffic this weekend. Any ideas? | ||
| Blake |
Barry, You are out of control amigo. Fix the problem, then add performance parts. You are risking the health of your engine to do otherwise. Sounds like your bike might benefit from an evaluation by an experienced technician. | ||
| Rempss |
Had a friend once who had an oil leak on his driveway from his truck, he fixed it by parking in the street. Barry - Go back to "problem" ground zero and fix the problem. Start from day 1 with your bike and tell us what happened along the way. What have you added, how many miles, what changed just before the "rich" problem, has it always run bad/good, any trouble codes-present or historic, etc.? No one but a higher power could recommend a plug change with these bits of info. Do you have a service manual? Help us help you. Jeff | ||
| Barryx1m |
Perhaps As a newly frustrated X1 owner, I should provide a little bit more background or maintained a more consistent thread throughout these forums. As I have owned, built, and/or worked on all my various and numerous bikes over the past 20+ years, and only once have I taken one of my bikes (a Honda CBX) to a dealership for service! Admittedly, none of my previous bikes had a pumped up fuel injected sportster motor wrapped in a semi-exotic race inspired chassis with little or no dealer support. I am just now learning what dealer support means as a buell owner …. First off…unlike many posts I’ve read, I would never install performance parts as a solution to a problem other than a lack of horsepower. Normaly I wouldn’t make multiple mods at the same time, unless already tested by myself. But since my X1 has a “brain” and the BUELL race kit is also available from my closest dealer, a mere 75 miles away, It seemed reasonable do a final performance upgrade for the season. So the kit went on and the bike ran great , no more misfire or stumble, much to my surprise! But, as I said in a previous post that didn’t last long. I later ran the diags and retrieved an error code 24 - Front Coil failure. Which might explain what seemed to be a rich condition all along. I wasn’t asking for a solution to a problem, so much as presenting information that was confusing and in contradiction of what I had been told or observed. If it weren't for the mis-information and/or advice from dealers and owners regarding DDFI flaws, problems and solutions (including but not limited to: a complete carb conversion) I would have done a coil test/swap early on. Hell, I've got a box full of spare HD coils! (And yeah… I know the difference between a single or dual fire ignition) "Sounds like your bike might benefit from an evaluation by an experienced technician." As for this statement, Is this a jab meant for me or Buell service in general, or is it just a sad and yet comic oxymoron, that is somehow only too true? | ||
| Rempss |
"I later ran the diags and retrieved an error code 24 - Front Coil failure." ?? My response was only to start somewhere and run through a logical step by step diagnostic procedure until the problem is solved. Always from A to B to C ... None of these ideas are motorcycle specific, they can be adapted to any number of items. Mine are: - Sit down and re-live what I have just done and how the bike responded / what did I do what did it do - Visual check of easy to see components, any chafed wiring, wiring touching the pipes or other hot areas, visible liquids, unusual smells - Then down to trouble codes if any exist, follow the step by step in the manual and solve all those - Connector checks, sensor checks, nuts, bolts, wiring in less exposed areas - Ask questions here with a brief description of problem, and where I am in the diagnosis procedure - Give up burn bike collect insurance money buy XB9S Us, in reading your thread, saw a logical diagnosis up-side-down, with a modification thrown in to boot. Going back to your original post it seems like a stab at a fix instead of a sit down and think it out. You ask how the ETS works, and yet it is suspect? When did your check engine light come on? Fifty run cycles deletes as long as it doesn't show up again. Lacking any other information to go on; the advice to have it looked over by a professional seemed to be well based. Now that we know the real story, hope to hear the real problem and fix soon. Don't listen to Dawg, DDFI is like the rest of your bike, unrefined. Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Barry, Glad you found the problem. Advice was not intended as a jab. DDFI related problems can be very difficult to diagnose, thus the recommendation to have an experienced Buell technician look at it. You did ask for advice right?  | ||
| Socal |
moved post to: Engine - Carburetion, Fuel Injection and Fuel Delivery | ||
| Socal |
(removed request to move post) | ||
| Barryx1m |
Coil Checked out Ok! But Voltage on center lead of Coil Connector measured only 10.2 volts, battery tested at 12.0 Volts. Shop Manual says voltage readings should be the same. Going to proceed with voltage testing ignition circuit from battery to coil. | ||
| Jerome |
A question to the aftermarket ignition specialists : do you know how the advance curves of the Compu-Fire and Dyna 2000 ignition modules compare to each other and to the stock module ? Thanks in advance for your input. | ||
| Caboose |
I've got some trouble with my D&D exhaust, K&N filtered, race ECM equipped 2001 X1. The rear cylinder doesn't appear to be firing. After a brisk ride including some wheelies (the bike ran trouble free) I stopped at a buddies place. The bike had about 2 hours to cool down. Upon starting the bike up for my departure, the bike ran through its dianostics and fired right up. It sounded like crap, and shook more than usual. No check engine light came on during idle and a few blips of the throttle. I limped the few kilometers home, the check engine light came on at this point. I pull into my garage an have a look at her. The front cylinder / header is too hot to touch and sure enough, the rear cylinder / header is only slightly warm. Pull the plugs, the rear one is wet. Installed the front plug, grounded the rear one to the cylinder and fired the bike up. The rear plug sparks away seemingly just fine. Now I'm confused??? What gives??? | ||
| Ara |
Caboose - Did you reinstal the rear plug and try again? I'm thinking that you might have had a barely disconected or broken rear spark plug wire, and that fiddling with it to pull the plug restored the connection. It's a wild guess. | ||
| Caboose |
I checked all the connections and re-installed the rear plug. The bike was still running on one cylinder. I had some new plugs in my garage, so starting with the simplest and cheapest possible fix, I installed them. The mighty Buell is once again running like a champ! The old plugs had 8000 kilometers on them. still within there service limit. I guess the plug wasn't sparking hot enough to make the combustion chamber go boom??? I've never had a plug go bad like this before. Could this be a symtom of a larger problem? | ||
| Ara |
I've had the same thing happen with a lawn mower plug. Heck, I've had bad sparkplugs right out of the box! Nothing is foolproof, I suppose. I'm glad your fix was so easy! | ||
| Joebuell |
Is it just me or do the Buell Pro Series plugs (splitfire looking type), not work well at all. I gapped them to spec and I swear that they brought power down a notch. I know that a plug isn't going to put me in the LSR books, but when it came time for a replacement I went to the BPS plugs. silly me for thinking they would run better. Anybody running NGK ? size/gap? much thanks top all responders Joe | ||
| Blake |
I ran the split fires, only 10R12 plugs Kosko HD/Buell had when I was in NJ last year. They ran fine in my stock M2. | ||
| Rick_A |
Joe, I used those for a while but they seemed to foul out pretty quick. I switched to standard plugs and have been much happier with them. | ||
| Libnosis |
A little help please? My 98S1W dies when I let the clutch out. It is like something is killing the fire. It doesn't matter what I have it tached up to, when I let the clutch out it dies. Is there a switch of some kind causing this to happen? I searched the knowledge vault and got > 50 pages of hits. I just put two new plugs in it. Any help appreciated. lib | ||
| Josh |
Check the kickstand kill switch. I'd lower the kickstand, then raise it fully. | ||
| Ccryder |
Lib: It is probably your sidestand switch. Unplug the connector and use a paperclip to jumper it. If that works then tape the sucker. Neil S. | ||
| Libnosis |
Thanks guys. I'll try the bypass thing tonight. I thought it might be something stupid. |
