Author |
Message |
Ryker77
| Posted on Friday, December 23, 2005 - 08:43 pm: |
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I had my heads repaired and are using different gaskets. Unknown what the old head gaskets thickness was. So I'd like to check and if required adjust the pushrod length. Anybody able to give me some tips. Zippers pushrods. |
Xldevil
| Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 07:43 am: |
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Hi.I asked that already. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/90184.html?1117419733 Regards,Ralph |
Ryker77
| Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 10:02 am: |
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Thanks, ralph. Now I just need to find out what kind of lifters I have. Once again I must remind people how much of a head ache it is when you buy a "built" bike without solid sales receipts. You just don't know what you have. |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 10:40 am: |
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Ryk,you would probably have been fine.These are hydraulic lifters and have quite a range of adjustment,unlike a solid where valve clearance is set in thousandths.Seems as though each manufacturer is a bit different on adjustment recommendations so check with Zippers.It will depend on the thread count how many turns to give it.Other than keeping the tubes out of the way it real simple. |
Pammy
| Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 01:20 pm: |
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Push Rod Adjustment: Step 1: Turn the motor over until the front exhaust valve is fully opened. Adjust the rear exhaust pushrod to mfg specs. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and make sure the push rod will spin. Step 2: Turn the motor over until the rear exhaust valve is fully opened. Adjust the front exhaust pushrod to mfg specs. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and make sure the pushrod will spin. Step 3: Turn the motor over until the front intake valve is fully opened. Adjust the rear intake pushrod to mfg specs. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and make sure the pushrod will spin. Step 4: Turn motor over until the rear intake valve is fully opened. Adjust the front intake pushrod to mfg specs. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and make sure the pushrod will spin. Typically the goal is to compress the lifter about .100. (they usually bottom out at .200) This method will insure that you don't bend a valve. If the pushrod doesn't spin after 15 munutes, DO NOT move on to the next step. |
Ryker77
| Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 08:00 pm: |
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edit: I've got zipper push rod covers with NRHS adjustable push rods. Pammy: what would "mfg specs" be? and thanks for the steps to follow. Does anybody know the thead count for NRHS push rods? |
Xldevil
| Posted on Saturday, December 24, 2005 - 08:42 pm: |
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Does anybody know the thread count for NRHS push rods? NRHS maybe? |
Ryker77
| Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 10:38 am: |
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you think But with it being Christmas I doubt they are anserwing emails or taking phone calls. |
Rocketman
| Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 12:32 pm: |
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The thread count is not that important. It's more a reference point. You do it by feel. I found better results with the rocker covers removed. This way one can feel the play in the rocker movement at the pushrod end. Just going by pushrod rotation alone I found after waiting ten minutes or so that the free play became too slack for my liking, going by the feel of the rocker at the pushrod end. No matter what the thread count is or what free play is felt at the rocker (to a minimum - you don't want a noticeable gap), as long as you have just enough slack for the pushrod to rotate after the 10 - 15 minute wait, then the valve is seated and is good to go. Don't confuse the issue so much by counting. Rocket |
Ryker77
| Posted on Sunday, December 25, 2005 - 03:26 pm: |
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thanks for the tip, rocket. What I'll do is follow Pam's advice. The pushrods were allready set before I took the heads off. so the only thing that could have changed is the .040 head gasket. I'll put the lower rocker box on front head and do that one first. I can feel the push rods on the rear cylinder to find top of the rear cam lobe. then adjust the front like Pam said. Thanks for the help guys-- and Pam. Don't want to jack the bike up over something so simple. Yet so important. |
Ryker77
| Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 02:50 pm: |
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--- I "Turn the motor over until the rear exhaust valve is fully opened. Adjust the front exhaust pushrod to mfg specs. Let sit for 10-15 minutes and make sure the pushrod will spin." I was able to spin the push rod without waiting for the lifter to bleed down. the same thing for the front intake valve. Is that good or do I need to lengthen the pushrod? |
Rocketman
| Posted on Tuesday, December 27, 2005 - 03:37 pm: |
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The lifter hasn't likely pumped up, which is normal. The time is precautionary. The trick is to get the pushrod as close to tolerance as you can so as it still rotates, but not to slack. Rocket |
Wman
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 07:59 pm: |
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I'm trying to make my M-2 a little more stock, pushrod adj. ever 1000 mi. is getting old. I have S.E. 563 cams,crane push rods,hydro-solids and S&S 1:6 rockers. Does anyone know if stock push rods with stock or any other type of(S.E. mabee) hyd. lifters will work with the S&S rockers? |
Buelldyno_guy
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2006 - 08:32 pm: |
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Pam's method is correct, but the back lash within the lifter is the issue. All Zippers lifters do not have the same lash inside the same goes with HD S/E Hydro Solid. ... Zippers has a web site and you can down load the specs if you have the P/N? . ... If you are still running stock lifters then Fireman Jim is correct. ... Ether way the idea is not to have the lifter bottomed out when it is correctly adjusted. ... The the oil pressure acts as the cushion and self adjust. ... One way to eliminate all this is to have one piece (Smith Brothers Push Rods) made following getting the length correct. ... Terry |
Pammy
| Posted on Monday, January 09, 2006 - 06:58 pm: |
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Bdguy, you are right. I should have said "adjust from ZERO LASH to mfg specs". I actually typed up a direction sheet shortly after my post above because I thought that would be good to send with all our top end and cam sales for the end user to follow. And in the directions, I made up, I did put "from zero lash". I just didn't think of it when I was making that post. Wman, hydrosolids have a different adjustment procedure. You may be adjusting your pushrods wrong for those lifters. With solids or hydrosolids, you are supposed to check them at 2k intervals. If you are having issues maybe you should switch to stock lifters. |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, January 19, 2006 - 06:47 am: |
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WMan, Further to Pammy's good advice, I happened to be in communication with the folks at Revolution Performance and so ran your question by them. Got the following answer. Marketing included.
quote:As long the total stack height is within approximately 0.040" of stock you can use the stock pushrods. The rockers are not a factor. You will need to go with a lifter other than the hydrosolid. (here's the marketing part) We have a GREAT new lifter that we just released, 23 grams lighter than the hydrosolid and less than half the price. Brian Nallin
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Wman
| Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2006 - 06:25 pm: |
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Bake and Pammy, Thanks for help and as always BadWeb is the place too go for help. The marketing part works as I am going to talk to R.P. |