| Author | Message | ||
     Sgthigg |
I am quickly approaching my 500 mile oil change. What type of oil should I run as far as weight? Also is there a difference between V twin oil and mobile one for auto's? I am in the south where it never really gets below 34 degrees. I eventualy want to run synthetic but I dont want to put it in now if its too soon. Its in a 2005 XB12SCG and I dont want to void the warranty with a brand that doesnt meet or exceed the Harley specs. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks (Message edited by sgthigg on November 16, 2005) (Message edited by sgthigg on November 16, 2005) | ||
| Bomber |
sgt -- I've been running mobil 1 for cars in my tuber for about 30K miles, no issues at all -- their V-twin oil was way more expensive, and not readily available you can change to synth now -- if warranty is a prime concern for you, just use HD's synth product, and all will be well the myth about changing to synth too soon is just that, a myth -- thought there are some with gazillions of trouble free miles using dino lube (sounds kinda naughty, don't it?), I'd switch to synth now -- cooler running, stands up to heat better -- no reason not too (other than cost, of course) my last bit of advice is, no matter what ya run, change it like a Chicagoa Democrat votes -- early and often | ||
| Brucelee |
M1 15W-50 is the deal. I waited until 1000 to change to syn but that was just me. | ||
| Sgthigg |
I like the analogy Bomber  . Awesome, thanks Gents. | ||
| Rocketman |
Look guys 'n' girls, we've been debating oil threads on this board for too many years and we've never posted a conclusive page where we can all follow a simple guideline as to what oils to use and when and if that's to our motors detriment. Bomber posts a massive amount of helpful stuff on the BadWeB and one could be foolish to doubt his input - and I'm not debating oil again on the BadWeB. Bomber, I don't agree with your change 'as soon as' towards synthetic policy. There is one good reason not to change too quickly and I believe, and I say this without any supporting physical evidence, that doing so could but not saying it will, do harm. Let's ask ourself if there's a risk by changing to synthetic oil too early? Can we by fact answer this question correctly? Synthetic oil is, or should be depending on quality, tougher than crude oil and that needs thinking about when 'running in'. The $64000 question is "is the engine run in at 500 miles"? The answer surely must be we don't know, or how do we know? There is a question though as to the 'hardness' of synthetic oils when used for break in purposes. I don't know who they are but some suggest that synthetic oils don't allow the motor to 'settle' in. If there's any salt in that rumour then my break in program deals with this issue where as changing to high quality synthetic oil, like we Buell owners do, at 500 miles DOES NOT. This year I changed the way I ran my motor in. Bare in mind I've run two S1W's in from new, and the second one (I still own) I've run in twice more with fresh rebuilt motors. AAC cylinders, Wiseco forged pistons, Andrews cams, S&S full crank assembly, etc etc, on both occasions, so not stock motors then. I've followed Buell's 500 mile break-in period on what oil was in there from new on the stock motors, then switched to Mobil 1 4T fully synthetic motorcycle oil. On the rebuild motors I broke them in on a high quality 10w/40 crude for 500 miles then switched to Mobil 1 4T again. I can't say I found evidence of this been the wrong thing to do when I pulled the motors down or had one of them pulled down for me (warranty) then inspected it myself. There was no wear evident from any oil problems. What this tells me is this. Why take a risk at running in at such a short mileage then subjecting the motor so soon to the rigours of everyday use. I just don't see it as an insurance policy and that's something I've been asking for since I jumped from Sportster's to Buells. I believe I might have an insurance policy now because this time around I haven't been constrained by the dealer / warranty issue / involvement. I've put this motor together with a fine tooth comb and I've worked hard physically, mentally and otherwise to understand the hardship this motor will work under with me at the throttle end. I'm tough on my bikes and I can't help that other than where I can apply my knowledge and skills on the mechanical parts. This is why this time I ran it in to my own specification. I ran it in for 500 miles on HD 20w\50 crude oil and I didn't labour the engine nor exceed 3000rpm, then I refreshed the oil. Again using HD 20w/50 crude then for the next 500 miles, up to 1000 miles total, I kept the rpm limit to 3000 and still not labour the engine. At 1000 miles total I increased rpm to 4000 max an at 1250 miles total I again changed the oil and again I used HD 20w/50 crude. This time I ran her to 1500 miles total with a 4000rpm rev and again not labouring the engine. I did at times give the motor a little bit of stick but nothing to hard. Most times I short shifted before 5000 rpm anyway. At 1500 miles I ran her to 5000 rpm until 2000 miles total and considered the motor broke in. At 2000 miles I finally changed to Mobil 1 15w/50 fully synthetic (says on the carton racing oil). It's the newer and latest grade of Mobil 1 synthetics developed for car use but the 50 weight puts it closer to Buell recommended spec anyway. Would I have continued using Mobil 1 4T fully synthetic? Yes I would but the only shop that use to sell it near me now doesn't and exhaustive enquiries tell me no one knows anyone near by that does. Mobil is not an easy brand to lay your hands on in certain parts of the UK. I'm not messing around mail ordering and to be right, 15w/50 is not THAT different from any other Mobil 1 synthetic, even the diesel and motorcycle specific variants. To sum up. I'm more confident in the engine than I would have been if I'd have thrashed her from 500 miles and I believe that using crude oil for a break in period of 2000 miles will do no harm to my motor what so ever. I don't for one moment think using fully synthetic oil from 500 mile would have done any harm either, but doing so and calling her broke in after a mere 500 miles, then thrashing the motor hard like I do from time to time would have left me with an element of doubt. Like I said, I was looking for an insurance policy and I am happy thinking I might have created one. One more thing. I hate running in periods. They're boring  Rocket | ||
| Rocketman |
Incidentally, I use to buy that Mobil 1 4T fully synthetic from the local Yamaha dealer, so it might be of interest to those amongst us who run fully synthetic oils in their wet clutch application superbikes that the Yamaha dealer stopped selling the 4T because many R1 owners reported clutch slip. Rocket | ||
| Sgthigg |
Rocket i definetly dont want another oil thread started. Thanks for the input on your motor break in period. I think it gave me a good reality check on breaking in the motor and getting a "good insurance" policy from doing so. I think im going to do something similar with my XB12. I am @ 290 miles now and I definetly will need to use some self discipline on tasking the motor after 500 miles. Thanks for your opinion. | ||
| Rocketman |
I hope it works for you Sgt. Don't worry about starting (yet) another oil thread. I just wish someone could write up here in BOLD txt exactly what is best of the best of the best. But hey I'm a realist. That would just start (yet) another oil thread LOL Rocket |
