| Author | Message | ||
     Oldog |
Ok: is there an alternative to the [ less than wonderful ] torx fasteners on the isolators? I am trying to remove the swing arm for bearing service, as you might guess its not going too well.  I am NOT going to put that type fastener back in the bike, not happining! I have time and budget constraints and I have purchased 2 tools both now slip on the fastener. The LH bolt can not be turned any more, after moving 1/4 trun, the head looks ok I have a 20" flex head ratchet, I am getting out MY air comp and 1/2" impact tomorrow, IF that fails the sawzall or drill will be employed. Can any one tell me about the allen head bolts that were employed formerly? are they available any where? OR what grade are the new POS bolts also what grade are the self locking nuts that that must be thrown away on the side plate and tie bars,  the RH side came out with some effort, the metal in the head is starting to "pile up" on the "left side" of the driving tool cavity the tip of the torx driver is starting to deform ( tip on left removed this bolt ) tip on right is starting to deform. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Old, The old allen head bolts are the wrong length. Too short if memory serves. I just deal with the torx, they don't have to be changed very often. The rear iso's should last 30+ thousand miles. I just replaced original S2 rears at about 32000 and 10 years! Of course YMMV. Oh yeah, a hand 1/2" impact driver really helps. Brad (Message edited by bluzm2 on October 28, 2005) | ||
| Smoke |
tool quality also makes a difference. i've had quite a few auto-zone type torx tools deform and damage the bolt head and a quality tool pull the bolt afterwards. i generally put the tool in the bolt with an extension and hit it pretty hard on the end of the extension to seat the tool and shock the threads. works sometimes, and bring out the heat. good luck, tim | ||
| Buellistic |
Oldog: ISOLATOR BOLT(screw) PN 3457Y which are 1/2 inch ALLEN thread 5/8"-18NF ... Do not know the NEW BUELLschitte part number, BUT the PARTS TECHNICIAN will cross referance and tell you this has been up-dated to what you allready have ??? BUT SITCK TO YOUR GUNS AND DEMAND THE PART NUMBER BOLT YOU WANT !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Loki |
for a little xtra grip action... dip the tip of the driver in comet. Leave the cleanser dry when you do this. Old trick for the stubborn items. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Very good point Loki, you can even buy a tube of screw grip stuff now. It's a paste of a fine abrasive, just put a dab on your driver and have at it. It does work, I've used it on partially stripped screw heads and walked the buggers right out! I've never used it on a torx but it should work well there too. Probably work on allens also. Gotta remember to give it a try. | ||
| Oldog |
Thanks all: Brad I wish it were just stubborn, like the old jap bikes and the plastic phillips head screws this could rapidly degrade into an extraction due to messed up head, at just short of 15 k the Steering head bearings were bad due to sand, and the arm has a notch in its arc of movement, So because of local conditions the service interval is shorter. The bolt has loosened and stopped turning. Right now the motor is hanging from the front mount one tiebar and 2 jacks I am a dainty 230 lbs of mass centeralization with a long bar to pull with I will try striking the tool to seat it, I would rather not ruin the isolator if I can avoid it soo heat, or the saw is the last resort the "new improved" bolt is 3/4" long and has a lok patch on it I just need to know the grade, bolts are not magic but using the right type is crucial I will not put a torx back in the hole, I will buy the best bolts of the proper size and use locktite red if lok patced bolts are not available. There is no advantage to using the torx head bolt that I can think of | ||
| Fusa21 |
Oldog, I have asked your same question a few times for my Racebikes, an S1 and XB. Usually most bolts that have a fair amount of stress put through them are Grade 8. If you switch bolt head application, I would stick to an allen... 1/4" seems to be ideal. It is large enough to get a solid feel on the socket with the extension. As for tools, sometimes money is well spent on something that is designed to be better quality. A Snap-on or MAC tool is a must when dealing with Torx bit sockets. I have had a fair number of T-27 bolts ruined by Craftsman and Husky tools. Keep the knuckle bustin' to a minimum. | ||
| Oldog |
All: I deployed my air compressor, and 1/2" drive impact gun, bolt is out Called Al at American Sport Bike new isos' on the way, with socket head bolts new bearings and fresh rear isos X1 iso & swing arm is not too bad a job with a hoist, and a way to remove the torx} I just finished the inlet gaskets for the manifold // throttle body, Al has got this majic wrench 15$, remove the head steady and tie bar on top not a bad job, except getting the throttle body off of the manifold, the seal rings are REAL TIGHT at this joint! I had to use a 24" pry bar to get it out! | ||
| Henrik |
Glad to hear you're making progress Jim. Keep up the good work.  Henrik | ||
| Oldog |
Hi Henrik: any one with a 99-02 with the cast aluminum swing arm, be careful with the dust seals I tried to install them today, as Bomber would say I made "a NEW mistake" today. There are now 2 bent seals and nice burrs in the mouths of the bearing bores where the seals go. Soooo got to have American Sport Bike [ Al Saves myButt ] send me some more, The swing arm can not be fitted with zirks for in place greasing, also because of the way the arm is made water will find its way in and get into the bearings. If you have never had this part off of you bike You are in for a shock when up pull it, if it were much lighter you would put a hammer or large wrench on it to keep it from floating away. When working on this area of the bike, spend the time to read over the procedure for service work in this area, Note the X1 99-02 have a removable side plate on the right side, I can not tell you if the M2 and St3 have this feature if not you have my sympahties that has to be a bear of a job with out it...... I will be doing the oil pump gear soon as I can I won't be able to make my original dead line, I messed up and got behind .. Oldog.. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Eveybody should know by now that you can put a ZIRC FITTING in the OLDER MODEL swingarm to grease the bearings ... "BUT" the models with the ALUMINUM SWING ARM you can not as they are hollow inside ... Those that have these should drill a small hole in the lowerest part as they fill up with water !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Prez |
i have a 2000 x1 ..and my derby cover is held on with torx plus bolts... not torx..that may be the problem.. the other problem i ran into is,i cant find any torx plus bits anywhere but snap-on..and my local snapon guy says i have to order the whole set..i dont need the whole set..i need 1 bit..that's all... so i am also removing these bolts and replacing them with something more reasonable... | ||
| Bomber |
grin -- Dawg -- I made a smiliar mistake when doing my rear isos last winter -- they really are thin lil dealios, ain't they? good work, btw -- keep pushing, brother, and you'll be done in no time at all! |
