| Author | Message | ||
     Tim |
Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't you supposed to always remove the negative lead first?(For future reference) | ||
| Roc |
I have a '97 S1 with the Nallin treatment and a race ignition. I have had some detonation/preignition above 4k at WOT. I've chased this with jetting up to a 205 main and it has not improved so I am looking at ignition. Is there any reason this bike should not have a V.O.E.S switch? The barb on the back of the carb is blocked off and the switch is no where to be found. It seems like the removal of this switch could be causing my problems. Help  | ||
| Aaron |
VOES is a good thang but I doubt it has anything to do with your problem ... the switch would be open in that situation anyway (wot above 4K). Is the VOES input to the module grounded or open? Grounded = aggressive curve, open = normal Best bet, get it on a dyno and set the timing there. | ||
| Gcpoland |
Or save yourself some money and get some riding in, by setting your ignition timing using your oil temp as a guide. You will probably find that you have a combination problem, not solved by any one thing. Gary | ||
| Roc |
I think it is grounded. I'll monkey with it some more and try to schedule some dyno time. | ||
| Lesco51 |
Has anyone had any luck with getting the ThunderHeart Ign system to work with the aux rev limiter and how did you do it? | ||
| Jmartz |
Roc: Retard the timing 4 degrees and try it. | ||
| Roc |
Jmartz - It seems to be pretty happy with 1.5 degrees of retard, maybe just a bit of ping above 6k. At 4 degrees, the max retard, it didn't seem to happy in the driveway so I tried 1.5. I will try just a bit more and let you know. Thank you all for the help  | ||
| Aaron |
Each mark on the timing plate is 5 degrees. Even the little marks. | ||
| Roc |
Aaron - oh!  - Um, so you still think I should have it dyno tuned? Then I retarded the timing 7.5 degrees, and later I tried about 8.75 degrees. For the record: some popping like it was a bit lean around 1/4 throttle but nice other than that. I think I will advance a bit tomorrow. Thank you all. | ||
| Peter |
Help, Does anybody know what is meant by a 3 ATM MAP sensor? PPiA | ||
| Sarodude |
Peter- 3 Atmospheres? For a serious forced induction type application? -Saro | ||
| Sidewalk |
Really, that is like 28 PSI boost. Sweet! | ||
| Peter |
Thanks Saro, I thought it might mean that too, but I'm not sure. PPiA | ||
| Steveb |
Sorry, double post -- my first post disappeared. Aaron or anyone else, Do you know the difference between the "Race" module and the "Lightning" module. I ordered the "Lightning" module in error and would like to know before I install it. Thanks for your time and knowledge- Steve B | ||
| Aaron |
My race kit module says "Lightning Series" on the side. What's the part number? Does it have curve code, i.e. "Q"? | ||
| Steveb |
Aaron, I have ordered the "Lightning" module p/n 31652-96y which has been changed to N0306.9A I should have ordered the "Race" module p/n 32680-96y, the Q curve. I don't know how the first module compares to the second module. TIA, Steve B | ||
| Gingerbreadman |
Help!I hit the starter on my 99/x1 with a two week old race ECM and the bike backfired, then started. So I shut it off and restarted it, then shut it off again. I wiped up some oil that had been spilled on the wires to the ECM thinking it may have been the problem. When I went to restart again, nothing!I now have no spark & no fuel pump.After reinstalling the old ECM(stock) the bike starts.What are my options now? New ECM,reprogam this ECM? This bike also has V/H & hand made force style intake with K-N filter.  | ||
| Jadow |
I want to apply some High performance work to an X1..I know there are plenty of black boxes in the market to fool the fuel system...but what do you do with the Ignition timing. Yes I know the Race ECM is the first itme on the list with the better curve and higher rev limit..but I want more control..any one with suggestions or products? just wondering about Big bore, more compression, stroking, and then there are the Max T 4 valve heads...which want 25 degrees advance..any one know what Hal's HD/Buell uses with the race Firebolt? | ||
| Spiderman |
Hey guys i need an answer fast. My bike was on the dyno this morning and started sputtering and cutting out we hooked up the voltmeter and the voltage would drop from 13 to 2, 5,9 etc. Does any one have any idea what that could be voltage regulator, stator, coil????? any answers will be appriciated. Thank in advance. | ||
| Spiderman |
PS it is not a broken ground wire i just checked that. | ||
| Blake |
Check ALL wires connected to battery including the small ancillary one(s). Where did you check the voltage? If at the battery, that low voltage would indicate a severe short circuit somewhere, possibly in the ignition system. Could be your stator is shorted. Check its output per service manual instructions. Also make sure your plug wires are not arcing to ground. Saw that once when my bike was on the Nallin Racing Dyno. Make sure the boots are in their proper place and each wire properly attached to its spark plug. | ||
| Spiderman |
We did check at the battery she is on the bench now getting the once over stator, regulator, etc. Hoping it is just the regulator. | ||
| X1nut |
Spiderman, I've seen more than one Buell with the exact same symptoms. Turns out the plates in the batteries break off and short out. If you have an extra battery around, it might save you a ton of headaches to try it out. | ||
| X1nut |
If there were an external short big enough to draw the battery down to less than 10 volts with the bike running, the wires to the battery would get extremely hot. Is your tach bouncing around all crazy-like above 3000 rpm? | ||
| Spiderman |
Don't have a tach it is a 2000, But.. i fixed the problem or so i thought. We foud that the positive cable was lose. Hooked it up every thing worked fine. Told the tech check my bat. make sure it can hold a load and that it is not shorted out, said he did went drag racing this afternoon next think i know everything shuts off and i'm pushing my bike back to the pits. Luckely (not for him) my buddy blew off his derby cover (well it fell off) so i took his battery. That tech is gonna get an ear full tomorrow. Thanks for all your responses guys!!!! | ||
| X1nut |
Spidey, Having been a mechanic for so long, I know strange things can happen w/electrical problems. Your battery may have checked out fine with the engine off. A lot of times, the plates won't touch until the engine vibes are just right to shake them together. Then, when you shut it off, they go back into place and everything seems fine. Your tech may not know about this, and could have been fooled by the battery. My advice for this is just to replace the battery every two years just to be safe. | ||
| X1glider |
I have an open loop fully programmable 3-D mappable ignition that determines what timing to use by reading rpm and manifold absolute pressure. The timing can be modified anywhere in the 3-D map. It does multi-spark and cylinder offset as well. The software resides on a laptop which plugs into the data link. Unfortunately, the software can't analyze what is going on with the ignition timing. It is only good for altering the map. Who knows the best way to determine wether ignition timing needs to be advanced or retarded anywhere in the rpm scale? I've tried using my ears in different riding scenarios, light, med and hard acceleration and deceleration and cruising. I've been trying to determine what to do by listening to the snap, crackle and popping when closing the throttle quickly after revving up to 7000 rpm. Is there something a dyno can indicate to the user? How about looking at cam timing specs to determine which way to adjust? Cylinder offset? How to tell if it's necessary and which way to adjust? This is a toughie! I'm also wondering if the multi-spark would help ignite more fuel in my problem overly rich area in the A/F curve. Hopefully this module will make dramatic improvements in rideability and reliability with a side benefit with a little more power being found. I just have to figure out how to properly use this tool. | ||
| Blake |
Sounds like you need to visit Nallin Racing and spend some time on "The Pump". | ||
| Daveyngoliath |
My son was riding his 2000 M2 last week and said his speedometer started jumping back and forth, And started running crumby. I checked the battery and it has 12+ volts in it. Picked up a service manual, and started testing everything and checked for bare wires. I had the battery disconnected and as a fluke I checked it a few days later and it had only 8 volts in it, All it needed was a new battery. I thought I might pass it on if it helps someone else. |
