| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Hootowl... been there, done that. I am batting a solid .500 on putting on those primary gaskets (2 non leakers in 4 attempts). I blew the first one just trying to line things up by hand. Cutting up a wooden dowel and putting the pieces in a pencil sharpener, and threading those into the holes and sliding both the gasket and the primary over them, and replacing them one at a time with the bolts solved that problem. I have heard coating the gasket with a thin layer of grease to hold it in place would probably work well as well, but I like my gaskets clean and dry on installation. Second failure was when I had to pull the primary cover a week or so after a previous pull (forget why). I figured I could sneak by without replacing the gasket (it came off fine). No such luck, it lasted a week when I reassembled then started leaking from the bottom... Lesson learned. | ||
| Hootowl |
This is the first failure I've had. And the first time I tried to put it on without the dowels. Serves me right. I knew better. | ||
| Road_Thing |
I use cut-off bolts instead of dowels, clean all gasket surfaces with lacquer thinner, and stick the gasket on with Gaskacinch. Works every time. I find that a couple of twists of teflon tape on the primary adjuster stud stops that little seep, too. r-t | ||
| Hootowl |
R-T, I was going to use bolts this time since I seem to have lost my dowels, but there I was at Sears exchanging my broken 3/16 allen socket for a new one when I saw this bucket of dowel, so I went for it. | ||
| Ron |
My 2000 S-3T has for some time now "clicked" or made a somewhat crisp sounding "Clunk" When I let the clutch out in 1st gear only. It is particularly noticable when the bike is already moving such as in slow speed parking lot stuff when you pull the lever in and let it out for menuevering and turning. That is, when there is no load - your just using the clutch and throttle to help with tight parking lot turns etc. During a normal take off when power is applied there seems to be little or no "clunk". Does not happen in any other gear. I am using Amsoil 20-50 in the primary as per their recommendation. It did the same thing with Sport Trans fluid and Redline Shockproof Heavy. I Run the drive belt on the loose side. This afternoon it began to sound a bit worse. Any ideas? | ||
| Hootowl |
Have you checked the tension on your chain? | ||
| Hootowl |
And checked for a broken tensioner? | ||
| Ron |
Did all the above. Just changed out the shaft seal with the new type and also the new tensioner. Was very careful about adjusting the chain but will look at it again. It did make the "clunk" however even after doing the adjustment. But I will re-check. This is what has bothered me so much about it. I have been really careful about the adjustment - checking it every 3 - 4 " to account for chain stretch etc. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Ron, My 2K M2 made the same noise, I changed the CRACKED stock tensioner and all was well. Probably a combo of the loose chain and the defective tensioner. If you haven't changed the tensioner, you need to. Very easy fix, cheap (less than 25 bucks for gasket, tensioner and fresh tranny oil) If the old style tensioner lets loose, it's gong to cost MUCH more. Brad | ||
| Mike_E |
What would cause transfiuld to be blowing out the vent line? It does not looklike I am loosing oil from the engine just having brown foamy puck coming out of the vent line. Maybe just a little oil in sneaking by the primary seal? If so how do I check this? Or could I have just put to much transfuild in it? I am using Mobil 1 and this has happened a few times now. So if I did over fill I think it would stop at somepoint. Any ideas? Mike E | ||
| Andrew |
Last time I saw brown foamy muck, it was water mixed into oil. Been in the rain lately? | ||
| Rall |
Mike E, I would bet it's your primary seal. My S-1 did the same thing. Changed the seal and all is well! Mark | ||
| Ron |
I recently changed the crank seal with the new style and my vent puking stopped too. It does not seem to take very much oil getting by that seal to result in an overfull condition in the primary case resulting in puking out the vent hose. | ||
| Mike_E |
Adrew, Ya I was in a nasty storm a little while back, but where can water get into the trans case?? Then next question is how to flush it all out? change the fuild a few times? Mike E | ||
| Annony_Mouse |
a quick quess would be your servicing dealer messed up the quad ring or inspection gasket. just an opinion  | ||
| Jmartz |
Baker 6-speed owners! Having put a Baker 26 tooth trans pulley on my bike it seems like now I need the 6th speed. Can someone mention how the trans group is doing and whether it works well... jose | ||
| Aaron |
Love mine, so much that I'm now getting one for the M2 as well, along with the 26T front pulley. That combo should put my gearing right where I want it  | ||
| Jmartz |
So Aaron, it is a product that works, right? If the 26T pulley is anything to go by, these people make quality stuff. I plan to get at Biketoberfest whe they usually give a 10% discount. Thanks, Jose | ||
| Aaron |
Well, I only rode the 6-speed equipped S3 a couple hunnert miles before tearing it down, but yeah, it worked great. Shifted nice and had six gears and didnt break, so yeah, I'd say it's a product that works. The bike was geared a mile too tall presumably to try to tame some of the 100 incher's torque, but it'd still power wheelie in 3rd. First was downright dangerous. I think, though, that the 6-speed/26T combo will be just the ticket for the M2, recovering some of the torque that I lose to the altitude, and be a good match for the way this motor is set up, i.e. hp instead of torque. | ||
| Jmartz |
The thing that I always fear is that the tolerances are wrong. Many times I've bought and item that I can't use beacuse it just won't fit. Like for example, a Jim's roller tipped rocker set had a bad unit built too short. It was very sloppy in side play. They replaced it but it cost me time, money and aggravation. That was ca. $400 but the Baker is $2300 and it would send me thorough the roof if the main shaft is too fat to fit into the 5th gear needle saddle or some other shit like the shift mechanism is for the reverse pattern or some other crap. You are right about gearing, it is so important. Take for instance the 916 format, 1st is so high that they are unable to "drag race". I raced this kid on a 748 6 or 7 times between traffic lights at Daytona. He could not prevent doing wheelies. Another problem is the 1st to 2nd (2000 up) and 2nd to 3rd (pre 2000) where the Buell trans clunks and it is impossibe to smoothy transition. Baker has weakend (made higher) the 1st gear so its matching speed on transition to 2nd might be more appropriate. Freeway driving will also improve as well top speed. I keep hearing of people with fantastc engines that have lackluster performance when compared stockers. Its all in the gearing. For a 100 HP stock motor the 26/6-speed is a wonderful combo. Don't know what would be best for your 155 HP S&S but the geraing has to get higher overall to put the extra torque into forward motion. It would be nice to develop some sort of "measure" to optimize gearing based on on "optimal" acceleration. | ||
| Blake |
JM, I think it all comes down to how you want to use the bike. Drag racing is a lot different than roadracing is a lot different than touring long distance is a lot different than land speed racing. | ||
| Jmartz |
Blake I agree with your assesment. My gearing concers dealt mostly with getting the most out of your modified motor in "street" use. | ||
| Aaron |
Jmartz, I put the Baker 6 into my M2 last night (thanks ASB!). It was a pretty straightforward job. Instructions are excellent. The most time consuming thing was the case clearancing, but it wasn't hard, just slow. They provide a steel template that you bolt in place to make it easy. Make sure you have a good die grinder and a rotary file for it. There's also a small amount of clearancing you have to do on the pawl arm, easily done with a bench grinder. Everything fit fine. Neutral light still works. They had included a couple washers with a separate instruction page telling me to put them under the front sprocket and clutch basket, the implication being that without them, the clutch basket might hit the trap door. That 26T pulley is amazing. Like it wasn't light enough being an all-aluminum construction and a small diameter, they had to put lightening holes in it too! The thing is just featherweight. I also put in a new medium-duty clutch spring while I was in there. That heavy duty one that Barnett sells is just too much for a street bike, IMO. Rivera/Primo offers this medium duty version and it's much more livable. It should be stout enough, this ain't a real high torque motor. | ||
| Gcpoland |
You might want to keep a close eye on that aluminum pulley. I had 3 out of 5 come back to me wit premature wear. 1 was from a belt that was to tight, but I can't explain the other 2. Spooked me enough, so that I only use Andrews steel now. Just a heads up, that you might want to keep a closer eye on it than normal. Gary | ||
| Aaron |
Yeah, that occurred to me ... aluminum hub on a steel shaft? Hmm. Not saying it can't work, I really don't know, but yeah, it's definitely something to watch. The BDL pulleys, which are aluminum with a steel hub insert, are proven units. But I don't think they offer a 26T front for an XL. Baker seems to make good stuff, though, I've been happy with everything of theirs I've used, so I'll give it a try, what the hey. Did the failures you saw occur on the hub or on the belt part? | ||
| Jmartz |
I've put over 1000 miles with several wheelies and many full throttle shifts. The pulley has not complained. It gave a lot on tightening though. AAron... did you or didn't you install the washers? Jose | ||
| Aaron |
Yes, I installed them, I just passed that info along because of your concern about fit. Apparently they had some kind of an issue affecting some percentage of installations, but they took care of it. Seems like a pretty well engineered & executed product to me. | ||
| Gcpoland |
The too tight belt was tooth wear, but the others were hub related. Just decided it wasn't worth the risk any more. I have been impressed with Baker's parts for the most part. I know his gear sets are made by Andrews, I am not sure who makes his other parts. Both he and his wife are stand up people. My comment was only a heads up, because of the problems I had seen. I might try one, but wouldn't put it on a customer's ride again. Failure was between 5,000 to 9,000 miles for referance. Gary | ||
| Aaron |
Thanks for the heads-up, Gary. | ||
| Jmartz |
Well Aaron you'll have to put some miles and tell us your experiences. Since the design is essentially the same there should be no reason for failure other than poor manufacturing. Baker and Andrews make fewer units than HD so they might have more time for OA/QC. I'm very eager to get one. As I said I'll wait till Biketoberfest when they usually cut 10%. BTW did the CH rub against the trap door? Why not just clearance the door or the edge of the hub? More work but a better result. Did you get the regular or reverse shift pattern and did you get the leak or sealed door? I know that last one would not make any difference in a stock case but I've thought of getting the sealed door for when (and if) I acquire a set of S&S cases. |
