| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber |
oh, good . . .. I"m finally best at somthing ;-} in my defense, it was, er, a little altered out that night, if I remember correctly | ||
| X1glider |
Who knows of aftermarket stator manufacturers? I checked the sites for crane, spyke, accel and compufire. Nothing for my pig. Any others? Archer: do you happen to have an OE stator for a 2000 FXDX at your store? I checked Mancuso already, which is closer to me. Zip. The ones they have on order, it turns out, are on back order. | ||
| X1glider |
Jeff. Same issue, now that I have read further back on the posts. I got a bunch of good measurements yet I am not charging. Digging in deeper I found a couple magnets that came unglued. It seems the magnets simply slide over against another when the adhesive gives way and not turn into the destructive shrapnel you are afraid of. Better break down and tear it apart, man. | ||
| Hootowl |
Mancuso has my stator for $123.00 I wonder if the epoxy over cured from the heat and that's why it failed. Why don't they rivet them on anymore? I've got the primary cover off, the sprocket lock attached, and the breaker bar on the crank sprocket, but I haven't removed it yet. I'm going to check the stator wires now that I can pull them out before I go any farther. I'd go ahead and pull it, but I don't have a 200 ft/lb torque wrench handy to put it back together. I'll find out tonight what's wrong. If it's the stator, I'm picking it up tomorrow on my way home. If it's the magnets, I guess I'll JB weld them back on  I can't imagine that it would be. I have ZERO output. If the magnets were all in the wrong place, I'd still get something at the output right? Even a few volts. The field is still there, and I'm still rotating a coil in it right? For those of you with weak hearts or no sense of humor, the JB weld thing was a joke. | ||
| Hootowl |
OK, I yanked the stator. Had to loosen the starter to get the damn wire harness out. One more gasket to buy. After I got it all cleaned up, I noticed that the insulation on the wires at the point where they attach to the windings is cooked and flakey, and about half the wires in the strand are broken. I didn't see where they are shorted together, if indeed they are, but with the insulation all baked off like that, it wouldn't surprise me if they were touching. So did the heat (from a bad regulator?) cause the baked insulation and the short or did the short cause the baked insulation? Guess we should ask the chicken 'cause the egg can't talk. Well, I guess the chicken can't either, so I'll never know. One good thing has come of this. It gave me an opportunity to put the new detent plate in. I wanted to put the Baker shift kit in it the next time I had it all apart, but oh well. I just want to get back on the road. I've been riding my wife's Blast. My legs are too long for it. I'm sitting my tailbone. I have gotten used to the riding position though. It's quite comfy if I can ignore my ass. Should have gotten the taller seat. The magnets are intact. | ||
| Blake |
Thanks Hoot, for sharing your diagnosis. got any pics? ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Reepicheep |
HootOwl... If you did not yet get a 200ft/lb torque wrench, you don't really need one. I have a 2 foot breaker bar, and I weigh 220 pounds. I simply stood on the breaker bar just shy of 1 foot out from the center of the socket. Viola... 200 foot pounds. ( your weight x (distance from socket in feet) ) I would only use this technique for those monstor torques of 150 foot pounds and up... Bill | ||
| Hootowl |
Thanks Bill. I had to stand on it to get it off. Makes sense that I should stand on it to put it back on. One less thing to gather up before assembly. | ||
| Fpatton |
Howdy - I'm having a problem with my 2001 M2 (1600 miles, bought new in May), and hoping somebody has some ideas about what might be happening. Every so often (maybe once every couple of weeks), the engine just shuts down while I'm riding. The starter works, but the engine doesn't kick back in. Plenty of gas. I've read the posts about possible sidestand switch, neutral switch, or clutch switch problems, but I'm not sure the symptoms quite fit. Once the engine has shut down, it doesn't matter whether the bike's in neutral or not, has the clutch in or not, or has the sidestand up or down. If the sidestand or clutch switches had failed, I'd expect it to start in neutral, which it doesn't. If the neutral switch had failed I'd expect it to start with the clutch in, which it doesn't. The first couple of times it failed, I thought maybe it was a fuel problem, as I was running low, but no such luck. This last time, it happened in the parking lot at work (what luck!), so I ran in to get a paper clip to start shorting switches. By the time I got back out, it worked fine. Am I missing something obvious? Any ideas? Thanks! Fred | ||
| Hans |
If you fill her up too high the valve in the tank vent closes and sticks and you have to blow it through from the outside. Same when the bike is tipped over. ???? Hans. | ||
| Blake |
Yes, it could be a malfunctioning fuel tank vent. Try popping the cap next time the problem occurs. If you hear air rushing in as you do so, and/or the bike then starts and runs fine, there's the problem.  | ||
| Scottcolbath |
Is the tail light bulb in my S3 some common bulb I can pick up at Autozone, or is it some special bulb? I looked at it last night and the numbers don't match up with anything at the car parts store. Also, the previous owner of my bike (or the dealer who worked on it) stripped the holes for the tail light lens. Any suggestions on how best to correct that problem? Thanks, Scott | ||
| Fpatton |
Thanks for the advice on the tank. I'll check that out. Fred | ||
| Andrew |
scott, the bulbs are 1157 standard twin filament type. (get LED tail light bulbs). JB-Weld or another 2 part epoxy works wonders for repairing stripped plastic and metal holes. Just roll a little epoxy together and push into the hole screw it together and let it set overnight. | ||
| Wruffus |
Scott, My dealer and autozone share the same lot. I went to autozone in search of 5 manufacturers bulbs models that cross the the Osram number on my burned out taillight bulb. They were unable to match any of the numbers and eyeballed a match. A bulb that draws %70 more current. I said no thanks. Went to the dealer and payed 10 cents less for the correct bulb. I disagree with Andrew about using 1157 bulbs. | ||
| Ccryder |
Unless they have changed from my 99' they are 1157's. There are new hi-output bulbs, but they also still make the run-of-the-mill 1157's. I have a halogen rear light that has a built-in flasher that is very annoying to people behind me when I hit the brakes. Guess what? That annoying aspect is what keeps me safe and them aware of what I'm doing. Look here Kisan. Time2Ride (Yes it's nice to be back home) Neil S. | ||
| Pjmule |
My battery died on my 2000 M2 ,so I took it out and had it tested and it tested okay , so I charged it and it seems the battery is good.So how can I tell if my problem is my voltage regulator or stator?I'm not great when it comes to electrical stuff, I do have a multitester but not sure how to set it up and what to check for. Any help out there? | ||
| Ocbueller |
PJ, A basic check you can do is DC voltage across the battery terminals while the engine is running. At somewhere above idle speed you should read around 13-14 volts. If not then check further into the charging system. Others can help you out if you gotta go deeper. SteveH | ||
| Ccryder |
PJ: Do you have a meter? Do you have the service manual? If you have a meter I can walk you through the oltage reg and stator tests in about 5 min. I just did it about 2 weeks ago. drop me a line. Neil S. | ||
| Scot |
My X1 would not turn over today.It happened twice.I turned the key and kill switch on.The bike was in neutral but I had no neutral light and the check engine light didnt momentarily come on.I believe (but not positive) the odometer came on.I turned the key off and on a couple times and finally it worked.The first thing to come to mind is the ignition switch.But I'm not sure because I think I saw the odometer light up.Anybody have any ideas?Scot | ||
| Ccryder |
Scot: My X-1 did the same thing and it was the ignition switch getting ready to go south. Get a new one ordered. You deal with Modesto so they should be able to take care of you. They can order one with the same key but they need to fill out a special paper to get it keyed like your existing switch. I'm sure they know that but sometimes everyone has a brain fart. BTW: I kept my old one just in case. If it's too long you can borrow mine. Let me know. Neil S. | ||
| Ptown |
Scot Sometimes ignition problems are caused but us self, big keyring with a lot of weight that hangs on the ignition and thus wears it out, other is that to much current gets drawn from exstra lights higher voltages globs etc. that runs through the ignition switch. This is problems I experienced in the past. Best of luck and hopefully you will be rolling soon. ptown | ||
| Scot |
Thanks alot guys,after talking to a buell rider that works at the local buell shop,he told me he went through 3 ignition switches and finally ordered a switch for a sportster to hopefully permanently resolve the problem.So I have ordered a sportster switch.scot | ||
| Mikej |
That sounds like he's implying Sportster owners have lots of keys. Me, personally, just have a lot of key rings with lots of keys and my pockets jingle and jangle when I walk. It usually takes three dips into the pocket to find the right set to start the bike with. MikeJ | ||
| Scot |
I think it was more like he was implying the Buell ignition wasn't quite up to par Maybe it's the cylindrical design as compared to a conventional key hole? | ||
| Bomber |
Mikej . . . . .you're either a grandpa, a security guard, or an engineer, right? | ||
| Mikej |
Bomber, None of the above directly, just indirectly on two of them and training on the third. | ||
| Bomber |
training is a goodness | ||
| Kdraw1 |
Hey all. I'm going to ask this question again: Does the M2 tach kit (that says it is for 99-01 bikes) work on a '98 M2? I was told here on the board it does, but my servicing dealership says it won't because the '98 speedo is cable driven and the '99-'02's have electronic speed sensors. Has anyone actually used this kit on a pre 99 M2? Could I possibly use a tach, dash, flyscreen from a '98 s1? I don't know if that has a cable driven speedo or not. Thanx in advance for the help. | ||
| Blake |
Your dealer correct that a '99-'00 M2 tach kit would not work on your '98 M2 ('01-'02 M2's came stock with tachometers). He is however apparently failing to recognize that there exists specific kits to fit tachs to '97 and '98 M2's. Give either Sport Twin or the Buell Cycle Center a call. If the kit is still stocked and available, they can have it on its way to you forthwith. According to Bonzo's post the part number for your '98 M2 tach kit is... 67315-98Y. Your idea to mount an S1 dash, flyscreen, and tach with your existing speedo should work okay. All Buells through '98 used cable driven speedos; in '99 Buell switched to electronic speedos. |
