| Author | Message | ||
     Luvthemtorts |
I would like to replace the semi corroded fasteners on my engine and had a question about how to go about doing it. Can you take one out, replace it with the new bolt, torque it down and then proceed to the next or will this cause leaks in the gaskets? I would prefer to avoid the headaches of taking the covers off and replacing the gaskets but at the same time want to make sure this won't compromise the seal of the existing gasket. As always, thanks in advance! | ||
| Luvthemtorts |
Forgot to mention I am leaning towards all stainless stell fasteners. I am assuming that I should use a good anti seize compund as well correct? | ||
| Trojan |
You can replace one bolt at a time with no problems. This is what I have doen on the last 3 Buells I have owned and had no problems  I would tend to use loctite rather than anti seize or you'll be replacing 'missing' bolts all the time. | ||
| Brad_buell |
Definitely use loctite on the replacement bolts, if needed. The Service Manual gives specific instructions on the type of Loctite to use for each application, as well as the torque specs for each bolt. | ||
| Luvthemtorts |
Thanks gentleman! I assumed antiseize would be in order since the hardware and cases are two different materials entirely. I was worried about binding and subsequent damage to the cases when the time comes for bolt removal. Shows what I know LOL. | ||
| Aaomy |
luvthemtorts,, on some of the fasteners " especially the derby cover and primary chain inspection cover" i use locktite on the threads and anti size under the heads, this keeps vibrations from loosening them but still allows them to be removed latter.. i keep anti size in a syringe to add just a small amount where i want it,, rather than all over me!! | ||
| Jackbequick |
On the bolts that were factory "locktited", you may want to run a tap into the hole to clean out the old LocTite. Especially those that feel "dirty" when starting bolts by hand. I prefer to use my used taps for this to avoid taking chips. A shot of air or even an aerosol cleaner will remove all the loose stuff. This will help to avoid damaged threads and bogus torque wrench readings, especially on aluminum and zinc alloy parts. The last time I had my carb off I had to clean the bolt holes to get one of the screws to go back in easily enough. It is real easy to strip a thread on the zinc alloy carb bodies. If you're going to apply fresh LocTite stay with the recommended grade (blue or red) and clean the residue off the bolts from the last application. For that, I use a small SS "toothbrush" found the with the welding accessories. On bolts that do not call for LocTite, I'll use an antiseize especially in areas where there is some risk of corrosion developing. The mixing of steel, zinc, and aluminum parts alloys along with the platings (in any) on fasteners and more exposed nature of motorcycles, makes thoughful use of sealants and antiseize worthwhile. I can remember a time when I thought it was standard procedure to have to drill out the heads on nearly every fastener on Japanese bikes and replace the bolts to remove and replace parts and covers. I think, in times past, Triumph, H-D, etc., saved us from this problem with bikes that required frequent disassembly and that were put together with fasteners that did not want to stay put. Jack | ||
| Frodo_x1 |
Anyone have an email address for Totally Stainless? All they have is a phone # and the online order form is not user friendly. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Guess they've updated their web presence. Nice place http://www.totallystainless.com/2007catalog/catalo g30.pdf That's a keeper. Z |
