| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
Hootowl: I neglected to mention that the differences in weight were minimal, a pound or so between steps. So don't despair, its not that big of a deal, in fact, I run a set of those PM's that came on my bike. They are bent, peppered with road debris and hurt more than once from the tire changing process but still shine when you clean them. I installed a set a Marchesini magnesiums on my buddy's 916 and those are really significantly lighter. This set was the DOT type a bit heavier than the racing version. $1800, not for the faint of heart... | ||
| Henrik |
Dan: I'm running EBC green pads on my S2 (now with 2000 rotor). I have EBC HH on the S3 (also upgraded rotor). I'm not sure if the HH pads are sintered (I think so), but I believe you can run any kind of pads you'd want on the newer rotors. You may be giving up a bit of "life span" with sintered pads, but may in return get a bit more bite - which is a good thing IMHO. Henrik | ||
| Buelliedan |
Thanks Henrik  | ||
| Xgecko |
Anyone have any experience with the Ferodo brake pads that ASB sells??? My brakes though they have a good bit of life left are making very weird noises | ||
| Jmartz |
Xg: I am experiencing the same problem, a kind of humming/scratching sound when the pad is rubbing. Does not seem to be pathogenic but I hate it too... | ||
| Henrik |
All you need to get rid of the scratching sound is to get *perfect* alignment of the brake caliper in relation to the rotor. Lots of time and super-thin shims (punch them from a coke can or such). I started the project, but decided that I could live with a bit of noise pushing the bike around  I've heard that street pads are supposed to just "feel" the rotor (not drag, mind you) in order to keep the pads warmed up and ready for action, and to keep amount of water on the rotor down in the rain. All for better braking in street riding situations, where you're not expected to be hard on the brakes all the time (Litle do they know  ) Of course, since I can't remember and check my source, this could just be an "urban myth". Can anyone comfirm/deny? Henrik | ||
| S2pengy |
Got the green EBC's on my updated rotor on the 95 and I think it has better feel than the stock pads on the 96...  | ||
| Chucks1w |
Hey Big, if it's not too late take a good look at tha Avon Azzaro. I can't say enough good about them, they are night and day differance over the stock dunlops and have the duell compound you asked about. Great in wet weather and my wear pattern extends all the way to the side wall so there is traction galore. I love em! I'm not sure about the milage cause my speedo quit about a year ago but I had 7000 miles on them then and I'm guessing at least a couple thousand more since. I'm getting ready to replace them at the end of the riding season which is pushing it a bit but hey, I like to live on the edge. Also I don't know the science behind it but even though some people run wider tires experts I've talked to recomend staying with the stock setup, there is so many varibles in the engineering it probably won't benifit you in the long run. Do yourself a favor and replace tires in pairs. Good luck. | ||
| Rick_A |
I gots a new rotor and pads. Sure makes 'er look different.   | ||
| Rick_A |
Wheel weight...there are two types of PM's available. The heavier street type used on Buells, and a lighter race type that is not recommended for street use. I talked to Reg Kittrelle about the Marchesini Magnesium wheels he put on his S1 ages ago...he basically claimed they made a significant difference in handling compared to the stockers. It's 4 pounds less unsprung rotating mass on both ends. I'd call that a big difference. | ||
| Jmartz |
$1800 in gold or black. Rear rim width is 5.75 so expect some issues. I also doubt the speedo drive will work (although most of us are now enjoying the electric age, as we should...)... | ||
| Rick_A |
BTW...if you upgrade to the new style brake rotor you're putting on about a half pound...and you can feel it. | ||
| Pj1 |
On Saturday on my way through the backroads of Vermont I had the front brack seize up. I stopped for about 15 minutes and everything worked fine for the rest of the trip (9 hours through the mountains of Vermont.) Has anyone had this happen before? | ||
| Steveb |
I only had it happen once on a '86 Suzuki due to a burr on the brake lever or perch. (can't 'member which) Anyway, the plunger didn't return enough to uncover the bleed hole in the master cyl. With very little riding, the pressure would build up and stop the front wheel. I had to bleed off pressure to ride on. I also don't know why the pressure wouldn't push the m/cyl back out, but it didn't. I suppose sand or a twig could cause the same thing. Freekie. | ||
| Awprior |
Is there a good way to polish the cast wheels, swingarms, trans cases etc on Buells? I've tried Mothers, but it seems to leave a heck of a lot of cream in the rough areas. I've heard of acid stuff for aluminum, but am sort of skeptical. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Alex | ||
| Archer |
what are the dimensions on the stock wheels??? someone e-mail me please rsmith@republichd.com | ||
| Archer |
anyone heard of people putting buell rear wheels on sportsters???? | ||
| Jmartz |
Aw.: I repolish my polished aluminim parts using a 14" spiral sewn buffing wheel. For smaller intricate work I use a 3 inch down to dremel sized attachements. Cleaning with "muthers" is fine but that will not restore the luster if oxidation has occurred. The PM wheels, for example, are subjected to incessant impacts from small stones and other particles. Nothing short of removal, detireing and hand sanding with wet 320/400/600 and repolishing restores this natural wear and tear. The engine cases and rocker boxes (if you own a pre '97 model) do not suffer as much as wheels and mothers polish often times is sufficient. Once the patina of oxidation sets in only the mild abrasion of a polishing wheel/compound combo brings the luster back. Thats why I envy those with painted (powder coated) engine sides and wheels. Manitenance on those bikes is a lot easier. On the minus side if a scratch occurrs that is it for a painted surface. You'll be looking at that scratch till the day you get rid of the bike or replace/repaint the part. On the plus side, polished surfaces can always be brought back with filing/sanding/polishing provided the damage is not severe. | ||
| Ara |
Jmartz, what kind of polishing compound do you use with the smaller wheels and Dremel wheels? | ||
| Jmartz |
Ara: Rouge, a red stick with abrasives in the 800 to 1000 range. This produces quite acceptable results after a 600 wet sanding prep. If you have two wheels (I do not) than you can finish the job with the white "coloring" compound. This one is in the 2000 range. You need to clean the parts well (I use soap and water) to remove the previous grit that you absolutely do not want in your finer wheels. | ||
| Ara |
Thanks Jmartz, I've used the white but wasn't sure about the red. Good to know. | ||
| Bomber |
all . . . .my Y2K Ma Duece never had a read brake woth mentioning . . . . . .even worse than most (and out scoots are not know for having very useful rear brakes . . . . . .) I finally (after a couple of dealer looksees) found the problem . . . .the forward mounting bolt threads into the caliper, and then has a necked-down length that slides in a bore on the mounting braket, or it's sposed to, anyways . . the sore on my braket was packed with grunge/swarf (coulda been original machining gunk, for all I know) . . . . . at anyrate, I cleaaned the bore out with a .22 bore brush and brake cleaner . . .the read brake is still nuthin to write home about, but it does funstion enough to help with low-speed maneuvers, and for sttling the bike in turns (yeah, I'm an old, er, middle-aged, ex-flattracker) . . . . | ||
| Burton4551 |
I am stuck at work and not to sure what air pressure I should be running in my tires. 99 M2, with metzeler tires. Just not sure. Is there an easy way to tell from riding if they have to much air or to little in them. Thanks for any advice! Ride safe! Luke | ||
| Blake |
Front should be from 32 to 36 psi depending on load. Rear should be from 36 to 38 psi depnding on load. Too low pressure will result in accelerated wear and possibly unven wear or "cupping", especially for the front tire. | ||
| Awprior |
It's time for me to get a new set of rubber. I looked through all of the discussions in the KV as well as reading a few articles, and am thinking of going with a set of Dunlop D220s. I'd also like to go with a 180 rear. Will this fit on a stock rim, and what is the proper size to get? Stock tire is a 170/60ZR17. The only 180 I could find on Dunlop' site is a 180/55ZR17. They do have the stock size in a 220 though. Will the 180 above fit, or should I go with the stock size? Thanks, Alex | ||
| Leeaw |
Awprior, Unless you have PM wheels, stay with the 170 tire. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My 2000 M2 (no PM wheels) apparently came from the factory with a 180 on it. It looks a little cooler on the back wheel, not much difference in handling, probably just a shade worse with the 180. It really fills up the rear hugger, enough that when I picked up a screw it only stayed in half a rotation before getting ripped right back out by the hugger (putting a notch in it). Whack... ricochet tinkle tinkle... woooosshhhhhhhhhhh. On the upside, you can coast almost 3/4 of a mile until you get to the first turn off, including a pretty hard left hand turn, even with a big screw hole in the tire. I would only get the 180 if it were a lot cheaper or was the only available in that size for the tire you want. | ||
| Blake |
Speaking form first hand experience now... Going with a 180/55 rear tire when the same model tire is available in a 170/60 is silly in my opinion. You end up with a tire that is a mere theoretically 0.4" wider than stock, and in actuality, for a D220 or D205... only 0.08" wider than the stock 170/60. Don't believe me? Check out the Dunlop data. Surprising eh? You will also have a rear tire that is now squeezed and distorted so that you will never have a chance to use the entire tread. Thus your rear tire will be left with artificially wide "chicken strips" indicating to others who might notice a severe case of trepidatious corner carving. I had to put a 180/55 race DOT on the rear of my M2, as no 170/60's were imediately available. The tire performs fine, but even after lowsiding, the very edge of the tread is left unused, and that just plain sucks! | ||
| X1glider |
Yep, I looked at al the mfrs and nobody makes a 170 race DOT. All the really sticky rubber comes in 180 and sometimes 190. However SV owners can find good 160s. I decided when the time comes, I'll go with the Dunlop 207ZR. That as sticky as it comes. My worry with squeezing a skin onto the rim is the bead rolling off, not the change in the cross section's arc. However, having a 120 up front will allow us to put good rubber up front. For me it would be the D208 series. Even tho the 207 ZR is not as sticky, they won't be too far off for a match. Any new news on the repaving at OHR Blake? | ||
| Suzypoozie |
I am due for a new set of tires and brakes. Tires: I am going with Metzler Sport. I haven't seen this tire, but was talked into it by a Michelin dealear who is getting me a "great deal". Brakes: I planned on going stock. Any opinion against/for either of these? |
