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Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 - 12:22 pm: | 
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Technoresearch has lowered the price on the VDSTS SW. The new retail price is $195 instead of $285. Available here. They have also released a new version of the SW (2.77-C) that will appear on the Technoresearch Downloads Website later today. The new version has better connectivity and connectivity reporting. Once you've told it to connect, it will keep trying. For instance, if your kill switch is off, it can't connect, but as soon as you turn the kill switch on, it will connect automatically. I've tested it and it seems to work well.
Very important: If you already have the SW installed, use the uninstall feature (start-->programs-->VDSTS-->Uninstall VDSTS) to remove the old version, delete the subdirectory that VDSTS was in, and THEN run the set up for the new version. If you do not delete the directory, srange things may occur.
Beyond the connectivity issues, I've heard of some issues with successful TPS resets that have to do more with the procedure than the SW. I've written the following procedure that is wordy but thorough. If you follow it, you won't have any TPS reset issues.
Resetting the TPS using VDSTS SW
by Al Lighton, American Sport Bike
This document explains in detail how to use the VDSTS Software to reset the TPS on a Buell. It is not a comprehensive manual for VDSTS, and it assumes that you have successfully installed the SW and are capable of communicating with the ECM.
One note first about connectivity. If you can not communicate with the ECM, contact Technoresearch for assistance. I’d say that 80% of the cases where connectivity was not happening was when someone was using a substandard USB to RS232 adapter. The Radio Shack unit will not work, and some others won’t either. But the Keyspan will, as will many other reputable units. In other cases, connectivity didn’t work because of COM port conflicts, or in some cases, a defective cable.
First thing to understand is that there are two communication modes for the ECM, the normal diagnostics mode, and the active test mode. Not sure if Buell calls it this, but the semantics aren't all that important. What is important is that you have to be in Active Test mode to reset things like the AFV, TPS, Clear DTC's etc, and you have to be in Diagnostics mode to do the normal monitoring stuff (i.e., monitoring tach, throttle position, temperatures, etc).
The Active Test mode is entered by pushing the "button" (the icon at the top of the screen) that looks like a screwdriver. The Diagnostics mode has a few different presentations, Gauges, strip chart, or bar graph. But once you've selected the correct diagnostics mode, you still have to connect to the ECM. There is a button at the top for connecting (an icon that looks the right side of a desktop computer with a black line representing the cable coming out of it). If the ignition key and run switch are in the run position, you click that connect icon and the ECM will connect and start communicating. Connection status is displayed at the bottom of the screen.
Go to Diagnostic mode, go to the bar graph display, and configure three of the bar graphs to display Throttle Position, Throttle (Volt), and Throttle (%). Do this by clicking the Channels/Mode "Ch" icon button at the top of the screen and assigning three of the bar graphs to these functions. Connect with the ECM, and you should be able to see the throttle position responding to you opening and closing the throttle.
Some notes about what you are seeing. Throttle (volt) is an absolute reading. There is a Throttle Position Sensor potentiometer (pot) on the end of the throttle “butterfly” shaft, and the ECM is reading a voltage that varies depending upon the position of that pot. Depending upon how the shaft is attached to the pot, and the calibration of the pot itself, every throttle body will display a slightly different voltage when the butterfly is at any given position. This is why a TPS reset is mandatory any time the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor is removed or changed.
Throttle position and Throttle (%) are positions relative to the zero point for the throttle butterfly. The purpose of a TPS reset is to tell the ECM what voltage is at the pot when the butterfly is completely closed (i.e., 0% open). The ECM is then capable of calculating the exact throttle position based on the offset voltage from the absolute voltage reading that it read when the butterfly was fully closed. Throttle position is the measure of the angle (degrees) that the throttle butterfly open between 0 and 85.
The first step of performing a TPS reset is to back the throttle stop screw off until it no longer is touching the stop on the butterfly shaft. The easiest way to check if the throttle stop is no longer engaged is to turn the throttle grip to zero and force it there gently. If when you start to open it, you can feel it gently sticking, this means that the butterfly is wedging in the throttle body and you have achieved absolute closure.
Activate the VDSTS SW, and put it in bar graph diagnostics mode. With the throttle screw backed off completely, force the throttle closed so that it gently sticks as described above. Note the Throttle (volt) value each time. It should be within .01 volts each time you do this. If not, there is something wrong with the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor.
Click on the Active Test Mode. You will see a button that performs the TPS reset function.
Before you actually reset your TPS to zero, I recommend that you perform a test of the TPS reset procedure in order to confirm that the TPS reset is working properly. This is optional but may save some headaches if things don’t seem to be working right later. Hold the throttle in the 1/3 open position, and then execute a TPS reset in the Active test mode with it held steady there. The throttle should be held steady while the duration count decrements. Once you get a PASSED message, go back to Diagnostic mode, put it in bar graph mode as per above, and slowly open the throttle. If the Throttle Position bar graph remains stationary until you cross the threshold position that you held the throttle at (i.e., 1/3 throttle) and only then starts climbing, THEN you know that both communication modes are working correctly and that you have successfully set the TPS.
If that worked correctly, shut the throttle and gently force it closed at the throttle grip. Execute the TPS reset, and wait for the PASSED message to display. Go back to Diagnostics/Bar graph display mode. Slowly turn the throttle stop screw up until you get a Throttle Position Reading of 5.1. Start the engine, let it warm up to an indicated temperature of 320F, and adjust the idle to 1050 and you're done.
It is EXTREMELY important that the throttle plate is fully closed when the TPS is performed. Even slightly open will make the bike run poorly. The throttle butterfly must be made to gently stick in the closed position when the TPS is reset or you will not get proper engine operation.
(Message edited by blake on January 10, 2006) |
5liter
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 - 04:32 pm: |
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Al Lighton:
Thanks. Mine DEFINITLY needed the Keyspan adapter. After I got that piece I could do the TPS reset. |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 - 11:39 pm: |
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Someone asked me for a list of compatible USB to RS232 converters. Fact is, I have no idea. My laptop has a genuine RS232 port on it, so I haven't had to use the USB adapter.
But it sounds like a good question for here. If you are using an USB<-->RS232 adapter, and it is working well for you, can you please PM me with the manufacturer and model? If you have one and it wasn't working, and it was fixed by changing to a different brand, can you send me the manufacturer and model name of the one that wouldn't connect? I'll compile the info and post the good and bad ones here. Not as scientific as a comprehensive test of USB adapters, but more helpful than nothing to go on at all.
Thanks,
Al |
2k4xb12
| | Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 01:54 pm: |
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Hey Al, How about a step by step for the PDA version... |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 12:01 am: |
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I'd happily write one if I had a PDA....
AL |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 11:10 am: |
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As a tuber guy I don't mess with my ECM but I have messed with RS-232 serial connections to iPAQ and Palm PDAs. Those, and most other PDAs, have a RS-232 serial pair in their charging cradle or hot synch connector. Here is a place where you can buy serial adapter cables with a DB-9P serial connector on one end and a proprietary PDA connector on the other.
If you want to make up your own cable, that company also sells some some connectors for the more common PDAs and also has the pinout info on their support page. I've bought some of their stuff and the quality was good.
Maybe you guys need to take up a collection and buy Al a PDA and a newer laptop (with no DB9P serial connector) to give him the incentive to figure all this out. :>
Jack |
2k4xb12
| | Posted on Sunday, October 16, 2005 - 11:45 am: |
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Jack, Every time we make a purchase from Al, we're contributing to his collection...
 |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 12:09 am: |
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I'll likely get one, but so far I haven't had much of a need for one. They're good if you travel,but I spend most of my waking hours at the shop and don't travel too much (except I'm in Florida now on Vacation at my dad's place).
I'd bet that 90% of the procedure I wrote is identical on the PDA. The Icons may look a bit different, but I'm sure the connection modes will be the same and the procedure certainly would be.
I've got some testing I'll be doing at the end of the month. I'll buy one to use with that.
Al |
Dave
| | Posted on Friday, October 21, 2005 - 03:40 pm: |
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Thanks for the documented procedure Al. I just did my XB12X w/out the maintenance manual using the technoresearch software. One area that caused confusion for me was the remote idle adjustment thumb wheel location on the XB. Your optional procedure of zeroing the TPS at 1/3 throttle illustrated the theory nicely.
A couple suggestions:
- Keep terminology the same throughout. Is the "throttle stop screw" the same as the "throttle screw" and the unspecified item to adjust the idle? (I hope so or my ride to work this evening may be interesting!  ) I took the air box and all off looking for separate items because I recall seeing a throttle stop screw on earlier FI.
- Could you clarify the throttle position reading of 5.1vdc? That's just an initial setting till idle is adjusted with engine at 320F?
Thanks
DAve |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Monday, January 09, 2006 - 09:27 am: |
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PDA update:
I have a PDA now, and have successfully used it for resetting several TPS's. A separate step by step really isn't necessary, the procedure is virtually identical to the method outline above. The screen shots and menu picks are a slightly different than with a laptop, but it seemed intuitive enough when I did it (even for a PDA newbie). The difference between Diagnostics mode and Active Test mode is governed by the ECM itself, so the PDA version is similar to the PC version in that regard. You put it in Diagnostics mode to monitor the engine stuff, and you put it in Active Test mode for TPS, AFV, or DTC resets and other non-operating bike tests, for either platform
Technoresearch used to sell the PC version separately than the PDA version. Then they included both. Giamberto told me they were planning to split them apart again. Not sure of the details of how that works yet, since the SW is (and always has been) downloadable from the web. I think the dongle in the cable might become platform specific, not sure. I know the one I have, and all the ones I have in stock, work on either platform, And the folks that have bought them were buying the capability to do both. So I'm not sure how he plans on stuffing that genie back in the bottle. Giamberto did say that owners of the SW on one platform would be able to get the SW for the other platform for $60. |
Therenardo9r
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2006 - 07:23 pm: |
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HI Al
Also have a Pda due to my work .... what sort of device do you use to hook up your pda to the ECM (I have bought both vdsts and DL from Giamberto)
Is it an external blue tooth add on that hooks up to the rs232 cable including a battery ? |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2006 - 01:45 am: |
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Nah, much simpler. WHatever brand your PDA is, you need to find what they will likely call a "Serial Synch Cable". It will have the proprietary docking connector on the PDA end, and the RS-232 connector on the other. You attach it to the dongle on the cable that has the bike diagnostic connector on it. No bluetooth required.
The PC version of VDSTS supports multiple inputs for the bike diagnostic port on one serial port, and wideband O2 input on a second serial port. The PDA version doesn't have the O2 input because they (technoresearch) told me that most PDAs don't have two serial ports. But I told them to check again, because if you have a BLuetooth PDA, I think that can be configured so that the bluetooth dongle could be used for the bike diagnostic port input, and the serial synch could be used for the RS232 O2 input. If yes, then you could collect time correlated A/F, Throttle position, and RPM data in virtual strip chart mode on your PDA, drive back to the shop, hook up directlink, make corrections, then go for another drive. Right now the only way to do it is to strap a laptop onto your bike, a dicey proposition.
Al |
2k4xb12
| | Posted on Thursday, January 12, 2006 - 12:55 pm: |
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Al, I haven't tried it on the PC yet, but one big difference I've noticed is that the PDA version doesn't read the throttle position in volts. It reads it in degrees. Not sure if there has been a software revision for the PDA that changes that, but the percentage seems to be around 0.5* to achieve proper idle.
Just an FYI...
(Message edited by 2k4xb12 on January 12, 2006) |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Thursday, June 29, 2006 - 02:55 pm: |
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Seems I spend a lot of time on the phone helping people solve their connectivity issues with Directlink and/or VDSTS. So I generated the text below to hopefully reduce the amount of tech support time for ours (and others) customers. Like most of what I write, it's wordy but thorough. I've asked Giamberto to put this on the disc for future sales.
Solving Connectivity Issues with VDSTS and DirectLink
By Al Lighton, American Sport Bike
This document explains how to solve most common connectivity issues with the Technoresearch SW products. I won’t guarantee that this will solve YOUR problem, but it at least covers the issues that we hear about often.
First thing to understand is that there are two communication modes for VDSTS, and three modes for DirectLink. All of them are accessed with the Ignition on and the kill switch in the operating position. The Diagnostics mode uses one-way communications FROM the ECM, with current ECM status and operating conditions transmitted to the computer. This mode is used for the Gauges, Bar Graph, and Strip chart viewing modes. Once connection is established with the ECM, it remains connected until the ignition switch is turned off, or the “Disconnect Button” in the SW is pressed.
The second is the Active Test (or Active Settings) mode. This mode is mostly one way communications from the Computer to the ECM, and is used for diagnostic tests like the TPS and AFV reset, as well as other diagnostic tests in VDSTS. You initiate a test in this mode, the SW opens up communications with the ECM, executes the test, and then the computer disconnects from the ECM.
The third mode, in DirectLink only, is the reflash mode. This mode is similar to the Active Test mode in that it is largely communication from the computer to the ECM while the internal ECM map is being reflashed. Once the map has been loaded, the connection is terminated.
When you first install the SW, it is important to confirm that the program is properly communicating with the ECM. This check is best done in the first mode above. Once the first mode of communication above is working properly, correct operation in the other two modes is virtually assured.
The first step to establishing communication is to install the SW correctly. The install routines are usually automatic. Sometimes the installation for the Rainbow Key driver (for DirectLink only) will need to be executed manually. There is a file called “RainbowSSD5.39.2.exe” in the Directlink directory that you may need to run to properly establish communication with the USB security key. VDSTS doesn’t use this key, so ignore this step for VDSTS.
If your computer has a native RS-232 port (a 9 pin D-Sub connector), you can skip to the next paragraph. If your computer does not have an RS-232 port, then you need to obtain a USB-to-RS232 adapter. It is CRITICAL that you get a good adapter. The Radio Shack adapter is junk, avoid it. We have seen some issues with the Belkin, and other adapters, as well. We highly recommend the Keyspan adapter, it is well tested and we KNOW it works. If you are using any other adapter other than a Keyspan and you’ve followed the steps herein, and you still can’t get it to connect, suspect the adapter. There is nothing I can do to help you if your adapter is causing the problem. You should install whichever one you get per the instructions that come with it. This usually involves observing the proper order of when the SW is installed relative to when the USB device is plugged infor the first time. DO NOT ASSUME, READ THE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS that come with your adapter. Once installed, I HIGHLY recommend always plugging the adapter into the same physical USB port. Doing otherwise may cause it to move to a different COM port each time.
Regardless of whether you are using a USB adapter or a native RS-232 port, the next step in the installation is to establish which COM port the RS-232 port is using. Most native ports will be on COM1, but the USB adapters will vary depending upon which USB port the adapter is plugged into. To find out which port your RS-232 connector is assigned to, you need to go to the Device Manager. Find the “My Computer” icon. Where you find that is dependent upon your operating system. It will probably appear on your desktop if you are running Windows 2000, and it will definitely be in the menu that appears when you click the START button (lower left of screen) in Windows XP. Wherever you find it, right-click on it, and select “Properties”. Under Properties, select the “Hardware” tab. In the subsequent window, select “Device Manager”. In the subsequent window, look for a line that says “Ports (COM & LPT)”. Rotate the + symbol by selecting it, and you should see some info on your Serial Port or USB adapter. Note the COM port that it is assigned to, verify that it says it is working properly, and then close all the windows you just opened.
Plug the cable into the computer/adapter, and connect it to the motorcycle. Turn on the Ignition and Kill switch. If you are using DirectLink, plug in the security key into the USB port. Run the VDSTS or DirectLink SW. Under the Communication pull down menu, select the Port Settings. Assign the ECU/ECM port setting to the COM port number determined above, and close that menu. The next steps are a little different depending upon which SW you are running.
For VDSTS, the microprocessor in the cable is specific to the particular vehicle type. If you are running VDSTS, select the “VIEW” pull down menu, and select “Vehicle Interface Cable Properties”. In the subsequent window, select “Test”. The SW will communicate with the cable microprocessor and determine that it is a VDO-EFI cable. Exit that window. Go under the “OPTIONS” pull down, and select “ECM/ECU”. The SW will communicate with the ECM, determine that you have a VDO-EFI type ECM, and give a message that says it has successfully communicated with the target ECM. The icons for running in the different view modes should now be selectable where they were greyed out before. Put VDSTS in Gauges mode by pushing the button that looks like a meter, and then hit the Connect (green round button). Some of the gauges on the screen should update as the ECM starts communicating to the SW.
For DirectLink, you don’t need to do the Cable Interface test above. Just go into Gauges mode, hit the Connect (Green round button) button, and it should connect |
Markp
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2007 - 09:45 pm: |
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What are the bike indicators that the TPS needs to be reset. Does the TPS just drift off over time? |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2007 - 10:24 am: |
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The TPS being off just a little will affect the idle and low end more than the top end. Idle will be a bit rough and the bike will have a tendency to sputter and cough a bit down low. When it's off by more than just a little, it doesn't run right anywhere.
It doesn't tend to drift, but it's just a pot on the end of the throttle body butterfly shaft. The pot has a fixed resistance/degree value that turns into a certain voltage/degree when the ECM measures the voltage divider across the pot. The specific resistance and voltage should stay pretty much the same at the fully closed position if the pot body has never rotated relative to the throttle body. But the service manual says to check it at the 1K, 10K and 20K service so I suppose it's possible. I check it any time the bike isn't running quite right because it's easy to do if you have the SW, but I rarely (never) find that it is off on a bike that I know I set right in the past.
Al |
Bigdog_tim
| | Posted on Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 01:52 am: |
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Hi Al,
Well - I have tried to reset the TPS several times now. Idle is rougher than ever.
It OFTEN dies at idle while warming up.
HELP! |
Blake
| | Posted on Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 03:20 pm: |
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Please describe in painful detail how you are going about resetting the TPS. Is the engine warm? What is idle set at? Are you being careful to ensure that the throttle is snapped 100% closed with idle screw backed out to permit full throttle closure and then some?
If so, and you are positive that you are following the correct procedure, the next step would be to check for an intake manifold seal air leak.
Get the engine warmed up and set the idle up around 2000 rpm or so. Then spray electrical contact cleaner or WD-40 all around each of the three intake manifold seals, one at each of the two manifold to cylinder head connections and the connection of manifold to throttle body. If you notice the engine speed change significantly, you've identified an intake seal air leak. Just be sure to avoid shooting the spray into the intake orifice itself as that will give you a false indication of a leak. |
Mookie
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2008 - 12:35 am: |
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maybe i missed something but what is the difference between the throttle stop screw and the idle screw?
ive been up way past my bedtime but i cannot find my maint manual |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Thursday, April 24, 2008 - 12:20 am: |
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same same, different names.
One is a more a functional description, one is more a physical description.
Al |
David_e
| | Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 09:33 pm: |
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I just did a tps reset on my 06 Uly and now the bike is running good but is idling a little crazy and takes a long time to come back down to normal idle. Also the charging system is no longer charging. I don't have a clue. Have any of you had a problem like this. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 09:45 pm: |
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Reduce the idle a tad.
Your charging issue is probably the "77 connector". Do a search on here for it. |
David_e
| | Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 03:52 pm: |
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I've got the idle turned all the way down. |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 04:08 pm: |
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I've got the idle turned all the way down.
What is your TPS percentage showing in ECMSpy? |
Pso
| | Posted on Monday, April 26, 2010 - 05:02 pm: |
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+1 Froggy or perhaps as I found out it could be the #46 (I think that is the one), connector. Mine was intermitent charging and at variable rates. I had hardwired the #77 connector already when the other plug toasted itself. Details are under electrical, charging etc. |
David_e
| | Posted on Monday, April 26, 2010 - 10:08 pm: |
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The 46 connector is the one for the regulator. i just hard wired that one and it took care of the problem of not charging. now all I have to do is fix the surging and hanging idle. It seems like its one thing after another. |
Blake
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 12, 2010 - 01:12 pm: |
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For the search engines:
For 2008 and later Buell twins TPS reset is built-in and very simple.
Buell TPS Reset/Rezero Procedure for 2008 & later Buell XBikes and 1125R/CR motorcycles:
The Buell TPS reset for 2008, 2009, or 2010 Buell twins is simple but requires that you precisely perform the following procedure, step-by-step, exactly as described:
0. Begin with the the ignition off, key out, and the run/stop switch in the "stop/off" position.
1. Switch the Run/Stop switch to the "Run" position.
2. Insert ingition key and turn it to the "on" position. Do not start or turn over the engine.
3. Rotate the throttle grip from the closed throttle position to the wide open throttle position hold for one second then rotate back to closed position and hold for one second. Repeat that exact throttle action two more times (three total open/hold-closed/hold cycles) holding the throttle grip gently against each stop for one full second.
4. Cycle the key off and back on.
You've just completed a TPS reset for your 2008 or later Buell motorcycle. Start your bike and ride. |
Mustangame2
| | Posted on Sunday, May 23, 2010 - 07:27 pm: |
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Ok, so I'm just gonna ask it...
My bike ('03 XB9R) is running fine (fingers crossed). I bought her @ 3500 mi a couple of years ago, changed the plugs (Champion copper), engine oil, and primary oil at 5k and just did all of it again approaching 10k (plugs to NGK iridium, heat range 7...working well for now). I ride to work @ 4 days per week 9 months out of the year, rarely on weekends or long trips. I've never done a TPS reset. My fuel mileage and performance are still fine. Do I really need to do a reset? I'm just paranoid because I see many people on this forum "chasing" performance issues before/during/after resets. As a prior aircraft mechanic, my gut instinct is to let a sleeping dog lie. I never saw the need to fix anything beyond preventative maintenance unless it was necessary...hard to convince owner/operators that throwing money at their plane is warranted if it's running fine. Can anyone argue that point with a valid rebuttal?
Thanks. |
Mccoach101
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2020 - 04:10 pm: |
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'06 XB12X Ulysses stuttering and sputtering at just off throttle and slow speed manuevering. I have the ecm cable but can't find program to give it to mechanic (not a buell guy normally but a really good mechanic. I'd like to find info I can print and give it to him.
Thanks |
Mccoach101
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 27, 2020 - 04:31 pm: |
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'06 XB12X Ulysses stuttering and sputtering at just off throttle and slow speed manuevering. I have the ecm cable but can't find program to give it to mechanic (not a buell guy normally but a really good mechanic. I'd like to find info I can print and give it to him.
Thanks |
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