| Author | Message | ||
     Road_Thing |
Hootowl: Funny you should mention that. Remember that wet ride we took a few weeks ago? After we split up, I noticed that my left turn signal wouldn't work while the bike was soaked, but the right one worked fine. It's probably not the flasher, but I need to chase that problem down. I'd forgotten about it until I read your post. r-t | ||
| S3dave |
Follow up on the post about the ignition switch on my S3. I changed it out for a late model Sportster switch. I had to use the wires on the Old switch. i guess the barrel type switch on the Dynas is the same, but my dealer had none. Hope this helps someone else. (I know I am not the only guy who has had to change an ignition switch...) | ||
| Blake |
PJ1, Sounds like an all too typical failure of the sensor unit. If you are lucky it may just need cleaned. A new sensor is around $50. | ||
| Reepicheep |
PJ1... Ditto what Blake said, make sure you get the updated part. If you can only get the old part (or can get a good deal on it), I can tell you what to do to armor it up so it probably won't fail again. There have been several of us here that have bikes that had a eating disorder regarding these things (at $50 a pop thank you very much  )... Though if yours comes and goes, sounds like it may just need a good cleaning, it has a magnetic tip that collects a lot of metal. All my failurs just died in their tracks. | ||
| Kdraw1 |
I was wondering if any of you know of any way to "easily" mount a tach on a 98 m2? I want to keep the speedo, but I would like to add a tach. Any ideas? Thanks for the help. Kevin | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Reepi (and others), I toasted 2 speedo sensors last month. The first was the original it lasted about 15K miles, the second lasted 7 days, less than 1600 miles. HD/Buell warrantee'd the second one. The "new" version has a shorter connecting lead. The sensor unit is suppposed to be the same on the old and new. Buell Customer Service told me that the lead length is shorter to prevent "wadding and tie wrapping" of the excess length. Supposedly this is the source of failure. Too tight tie wraps cause the thin wires to break. I'm not sure I buy that explanation. The bad thing is the lead is really short. You have to run it in front of the battery to make it reach. Not as neat as routing it the old way. I'm going to do a post mortum on my sensor and check lead continuity. I'll post results when I have a chance. I want to make sure I have enough "fiddle" time to do a proper post failure analysis. I may even throw it on a scope if the leads appear OK to see if there is any output. Bill, Can you forward me the "filter" information? I may slap one together and install it anyway. At $50.00 per sensor, I don't want to be buying them very often.  Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
I did all that Brad, including the scope. It is a hall effect sensor, so there is not a lot to discover. There sere some slight transients, but nothing notable, but unless somebody has a portable storage scope and is willing to strap it to the bike for a month at a time, there is not much to discover. The one I disected was NOT a broken wire. I have not tested my other one (my first), but it was installed by the factory, so unless they "bunched" them there, that is not why that one failed either. My filter was simply a decent sized inductor, and a diode inline. It has worked fine, my first two failed almost identically to yours (First at 3.5k, second about a week later). It would also be trivial to set up a... LM315? (I think thats the number, I am going from memory... it is a three pin adjustable voltage regulator on the wall at Radio shack, needs only a couple external components, but beware, they have the pinout for it backwards on the package listing). If you want, I will be happy to post a schematic for it, or build one and send it to you if you are not comfortable soldering (though it sounds like you are). The diode / inductor combo has worked fine though, and covers the two most likely failure scenarios (reverse voltage or high frequency transient) with a minimal number of all passive parts, so no worries about heat sinks and fewer things to fail (like might be issues with the active regulator). The manual has a diagnostic procedure that tells what the operating voltages should be on each of the lines. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bill, I'm betting I don't fine any broken wires either. I figured it had to be a hall switch, pretty basic. Although I'm not sure why they blow so easy (if in fact it's the hall puking). Hall effect's are usually pretty durable. They don't let loose in cars very often. I wonder if they don't have an op amp on the output of the hall to boost the signal for the trip to the speedo. If they do, I would think they would run it in differential mode for noise rejection. If they do, I bet it's the op amp letting go. Keep in mind I haven't looked at the schematic yet so I may be all wet. Did you protect all leads or just the power? Do you remember which inductor coil you picked up at Radio Shack? Sorry for all the questions, but I don't feel like reinventing the wheel (so to speak). Thanks Tons Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
Just the positive power lead. I choose the inductor from radio shack that was the largest one I could find that met my packaging requirements, it was a ferrite core deal about the thickness of a pencil and about an inch long, they of course called it a "ferrite choke". I am thinking a 10 millihenry's or so, but that was like a year ago. Just get the biggest you can find that will not be obtrusive. I put the diode after the choke and in series. I suspect the sensor assembly is actually a whole IC, and not just the hall effect sensor. When researching sending units simliar to the one Buell uses, one of the manufactures had two different models, one with "built in reverse voltage protection". Thats why I added the diode, and the fact that it steps down the voltage by .6 volts probably does not hurt either. Watch for cold solder joints and strain relieve all the connections, I just used LOTS of electrical tape, and zip-tied it in several places to keep the tape from unravelling. So far (1.5 years and about 7000 miles or so) so good. | ||
| Rdefonce |
Hi fellow Buell riders, I'm new to this site. It seems like the hot setup! Question: I've got a '98 S1 Lightning. My battery seemed like it was going bad, not starting so good. (Hesitated, then turned motor over. Sometimes rapid clicking noises.) My dealer mentioned the new battery tray/battery/relocated voltage regulator setup that should cure the starting problems. I bought it. I charged the new battery overnight. Still just rapid clicks when hitting starter button. The new battery checks out well under a load test. All of the grounds seem solid, no corrosion, etc. Any ideas? I WANT TO RIDE, NOT SIT! Thanks for any suggestions.  Ron DeFonce | ||
| Jmartz |
Rde.: Its the ground strap. Look for a missing star washer under the screw obscured by the volrage regulator. | ||
| Rdefonce |
Jmartz, The star washer IS between the ground strap and the new battery tray. Maybe you're still on the right track though, because the star washer may not have penetrated through the thick paint on the new tray. I'll check it out. Thanks for the reply  Ron | ||
| Jmartz |
The symptom you describe is a contact problem, the current from the battery is unable to flow to the starter. Connect the negative pole of the battery to the frame somewhere with jumper cables as a test. | ||
| Jmartz |
The washer needs to be between the tray and the frame on what used to be the outer voltage regulator bolt. | ||
| Rdefonce |
I double-checked the location of the star washers. Besides the one between the strap and tray, I also put one between the tray and the frame on what used to be the outer voltage regulator bolt. I'll try the jumper cable test tomorrow. (This full-time work and school is getting in the way of Buell progress!) Thanks for the tips.:-) | ||
| Kdraw1 |
Has anyone put a tach on their M2 (if it did not come from the factory with one)? If so, I'd like to hear how you did it. Thanks, Kevin | ||
| Peter |
I bought an X1 tach before the +99 version was available for the M2, and made a dash plate from aluminium, which I have since replaced with the plastic version from the later M2's. The wiring that comes with the tach will just plug in individually to the speedo plug under the tank. Simple enough to do. PPiA | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Kevin, A bunch of us have put tach's on or 2K M2's. It's pretty easy. Check out the knowledge Vault starting here: Tach Stuff in KV Read through the archives around the date in the above link. It should answer most of your questions. If not, yo kow where to find us! Brad | ||
| Rdefonce |
Jmartz, I discovered that the star washer in question wasn't getting through the thick paint! I carved the paint away; much better | ||
| Darthane |
Does anyone here know if there's someplace one can get schematics for the electrical systems on Buells? I'm specifically interested in the 2000 M2, 2001 P3, and 2003 XB9R. Thanks, Bryan | ||
| Jmartz |
Rde: I'm glad you fixed it... | ||
| Kdraw1 |
Thanks Peter and Bluzm2- now what I need to know is if this will work on a 98 M2? Anyone know? I was also thinking about one of those digital speedo/tach combo that I saw in a magazine- Except it was $500! Ouch. I don't think my wife would like to eat tuna noodle casserole for a month in order to pay for it. Kevin  | ||
| Bonzo |
Kdraw1 - I fitted the Buell upgrade kit - everything just bolts straight on - If you've got a 98 you'll need part no. #67315-98Y. The only difference between this and the 97Y is the colour of the bezel. (I fitted the wrong one, but it works)Not cheap, but looks good. Hope that helped, Bonzo  | ||
| Kdraw1 |
Thanks Bonzo- that's exactly what I was hoping to hear. Now to slowly sneak the money out of the account so my wife doesn't catch me (insert Mission Impossible theme here).  Kevin | ||
| Bonzo |
Kevin, Sympathise with the wife and kid bit - I've got 2 kids and a missus eating my salary. Do you have any pics of your bike? Bonzo | ||
| Peter |
Darthane, If you can wait until Saturday, I can scan the wiring diagram in my '00 M2 manual for you. PPiA | ||
| Kdraw1 |
Bonzo, Yes I do have pics of my bike. I'll attempt to upload them when I get home. I was going to post some once I got some mods done. Right now it's just a stock '98 m2. Kevin | ||
| Budstevens |
Technical troubles: Does anyone have a process to troubleshoot a faulty charging system. I have a '98 S3T and I've had to put my battery on the charger twice this year. I bought this battery this spring. | ||
| Blake |
Bud, The troubleshooting process is fairly involved. The service manual describes in detail the best approach to take. You may have a slow leaking short that is draining your battery as it sits idle. If while riding, your battery holds a charge okay, that would be my first guess. Electrical bugs are tedious to uncover, you may just need some perseverence with a multi-meter, checking each and every circuit for proper operation (voltage and resistances). | ||
| Leeaw |
Blake is right. I had the problem of my bike after it's first winter. Battery would not hold a charge. Tossed the battery thinking that was it. Still persisted, but it would run all day as long as I did not shut it off. Battery would lose voltage from turning over the starter, but was giving enough voltage so the bike would not die out. I started off by looking into the voltage regulator going bad. Did the easy tests with a volt meter (did not have a load tester) and replaced the regulator. Problem solved. Good luck. |
