| Author | Message | ||
     Chrism |
Jrh, Thanks, I was actually going to run the same 170. I just wanted to be able to get rid of the wanker stripe. I'd do it where I work but we don't have a lathe with a big swing. Nor is the welder close enough to work on it. I was thinking of doing it this way because some one once wrote that the PM wheels were heavier. Trying to avoid unsprung weight. | ||
| Racerx |
EBC brake pads are the biggest waste of money. I used to work in a jap bike shop so i picked up a pair, cause i knew i would be replacing them soon finnally put em on at the begining of this season and after only 2k miles gone if i didn't hear the rotor making a wooshing sound i would have had to buy one of thoes too. Guess i will add a new check to my pre flight list. | ||
| Arssicle |
Who made the rotors for the dual disc PM wheels on my 96 s2? Was it EBC or brembo? I'm hoping to retrofit some "Braking" discs if I can find a cross. Any info would be helpful! Thanks! | ||
| José_Quiñones |
A very intereting Article: Weaving Does Not Warm Tires Faster | ||
| Johnc |
I picked up a big screw in my rear dunlop 205. Tried to buy another one but they are discontinued. No dunlop 220's around yet. I put on a bridgestone 020 and kept the dunlop 205 on the front. It seems to handle fine with mixed brands. | ||
| Ara |
Johnc - How bad is the hole in the 205? I know you're not supposed to do it, but several years back I did the same thing to a brand new Metzeler. It was only a couple of weeks old, so I was really reluctant to throw it away. I put a "plug patch" in it, and ran it for the life of the tread with no further problem. They always say not to mix tires too, but if you know what you're doing you may be able to get away with that, as well. As I understand it, it's not brand-mixing that's the problem, it's mainly tire contour at speed. I'd be willing to bet that tread pattern and composition are factors, too, and ones that may come to the fore in the rain. Russ | ||
| Oz666 |
A happy FD to all that this applies to... Johnc- Dunlop D220s are available here: tires When I (recently) needed a D205 front, having replaced my rear tire last fall, I too was told by Dunlop NOT to mix tires. Not even 205 with the replacement 220s. I paid a premium for a 205 front, but when the 205 rear wears out, I intend to replace it with a 220 until the FT needs replacing. I think the "no mixing" party line is CMA (major) & sell more tires (minor). I just don't have the kind of income it takes to replace tires in "sets" because one is worn/damaged. I really do like Dunlops though, I have used them for 30+ years. And they are made right here in town! | ||
| Rick_A |
My front rotor now chatters A LOT under hard braking. It still stops pretty well, but man is that a wild-ass sound. The pads have a lot left on 'em...but is it safe to continue using the rotor? | ||
| Blake |
Chattering noise is usually caused by vibrating pads/caliper, not the rotor. Try cleaning and coating the back side of your pads with a thin film of soap or candlewax. | ||
| Rick_A |
Well...the carrier seems pretty worn...the pads were recently removed and cleaned. My whole front end vibrates badly when I'm hard on the brakes...well...vibration doesn't do it justice...it plain throbs. If I put on the brake while the bike is in neutral and rock it back and forth it has sizeable play and makes a "clunk". Grabbing the rotor and rocking it by hand shows about 1/16" of play front to back. I've done a lot of hard braking from triple digits or near triple digit speeds...and some stoppies from time to time. I have the upgraded rotor/carrier on order...and am hoping it lasts me some. All my buddies ask what's wrong with my bike when I hit the brakes. They still work okay but frankly it has me a little worried, ya know? | ||
| Blake |
Pulsating front brake would probably be a warped rotor. Not good if you are braking aggressively. | ||
| Snowdave |
Just had a new set of Dunlop D220's spooned onto the 99 M2 and either these things are awesome, or I have completely forgotten how cool new tires are. Maybe I will be able to keep up with Marty at the next slimey crud run - yeah right! | ||
| Oxford |
I own a 97 S1. The front tire that is on the bike is a 120/60/ZR17. The specifications call for a 120/70/ZR17. Here is my question. When I get up to speeds of 70mph, the bike wants to wiggle. Almost like the tire is unbalanced. Now because of the tire being a 60 and not a 70, will that cause the bike to "wiggle". I know the tire is balanced and it has the correct pressure. If not, then what will cause the bike to do this at that speed. | ||
| Jmartz |
Ox: You cannot trust something you cannot verify but usually front tire instability is rarely due partial imbalance. Look at the neck bearing preload and at the fork dampening. If the tire is old a new one will cure most issues. | ||
| Mikej |
S2 brake pad swap: What's it take to change the rear brake pads on a 1995 S2? Got my service manual buried someplace, think I have a fresh set of pads either in the garage or bedroom, and after this weekend's 600mile jaunt it's time to replace them. Also, is there a trick to pushing the plunger back in? Seemed to resist finger pressure, and I didn't try the channel locks. MikeJ (Hoping I haven't asked this before.) | ||
| Oxford |
The front tire is new. That is how I know it is balanced. I did put the tire back on the bike myself. Is there a chance that I may have did something wrong there to make it "wiggle". I will check the other issue also. Thanks | ||
| Blake |
Ox, Putting a 60 series front tire on a Buell is a very bad idea unless you are intimately familiar with sportbike geometry and setup and the effects on handling/stability. You really need a 70 series front tire for proper handling and to maintain stable steering goemetry. By going to a 60 series you have significantly lowered (by ~12mm!) your front end. This is not a trivial thing, and can easily lead to steering instabilities. As an interim fix, you might try adjusting your front end sag to the minumum (highest preload) end of the specified range, thus raising the front end to compensate. As an example, consider that the forks on my '97 cyclone have been raised by about 1/4" (6mm). The steering is now on the hairy edge of being unstable and is SIGNIFICANTLY quicker freer than before. You have lowered your front end twice as much. BIG mistake. Why did you mount a 60 series anyway? | ||
| Mikej |
Found the service manual, got the rear pads off. Worst part was swatting the mosquitos. Mosquito swatting isn't covered in the manual by the way. Rule 1 when swatting mosquitos and working on brakes, put down the tools and then swat. | ||
| Oxford |
My intention was not to get a 60 series tire. It was to get the 70 series. I was so anxious to get home and put it on. I didn't notice it wasn't the 70 series till the bike was doing its wiggle while going down the road. I took it home and one of my buddys pointed it out. Thanks for the tips. I have to go take it off and go get another new tire. Anyone want a series 60 tire with only about 50 miles on it. | ||
| Jmartz |
What brand and model is it? | ||
| Blake |
Oxford, You could also try reducing rear preload (increasing sag) to offset the change in tire geometry. | ||
| Buellbob |
Is everybody happy with the rear brake on their Buells? I don't understand why Buell put such good disc and caliper on the front then stayed with Harleys little single piston caliper on the back. Does anyone make an after market 4 piston caliper for the Buell S3T? BOB  | ||
| Aaron |
I'm very happy with my Buell's rear brake. And it's not a Harley unit at all, it's Nissin or Brembo or even Gambler, depending on the year. Harley units are much more powerful, which would be a major problem for me, as the back gets real light when I'm on the brakes. | ||
| Buellbob |
I just assumed the caliper was a harley part, and as usual it made an ass out me. Maybe I just need to get on the front brake a little more. BOB  | ||
| Blake |
Bob, Unlike on a cruiser, 100% of your Buell's stopping power on dry pavement is in the front brake. Save the rear for conditions that will not allow full force front braking and require the little extra help the rear brake can provide, like on gravel, a wet road or similar low traction conditions. | ||
| Blake |
Remember that quiz we were debating? I got the definitive answers from a racing tire salesman who races himself. True or False... 1. Cold racing slicks will generally provide better dry grip than cold street tires. 2. Cold racing slicks will generally provide better dry grip than warmed-up street tires. 3. Racing slicks being run on a track are generally run at lower pressures compared to street tires used on public roads. 4. On the racetrack, a good racing slick can outlast a high performance street tire. 5. The tread in sport bike street tires is solely for wet riding traction. 1. True 2. True 3. True 4. False (however, the slick will allow MUCH more aggressive riding, so it's really an apples to oranges comparison) 5. True | ||
| Reepicheep |
OK... that begs a couple more questions. 1) Anyone who is NOT selling racing tires have any first hand experience supporting the above? 2) How do used racing slicks (race pulls with plenty of material left but a lot of heat cycles and general abuse) fare with the above questions. | ||
| Mikej |
Used racing slicks are like used fan belts, generally not worth the cost nor the time to install them. But if it's all you got then it's better than nothing. (Throw in a whole lot of conditions, qualifiers, and variables here.) | ||
| X1glider |
Last time I was at the track, I was wondering if a used slick would be worth picking up. Granted, they're pretty shredded, but I was thinking on the lines of seeing how they feel, profile wise, if anything. The profile is nothing like a street tire...somewhat pyramidal in shape. You probably fall into a turn a lot easier. I wouldn't want to race on one for the first time with such drastic differences in handling. Dangerous idea. | ||
| Mikej |
It might be Bridgestone or probably someone else, but there is a street tire with that triangular profile available to fit the Buells. Someone will pop up with the brand and model number shortly most likely. |
