| Author | Message | ||
     Buelliedan |
Typo? What are you guys talking about?  | ||
| Buelliedan |
Oh my!! I just saw the typo!! Well, It might not help the performance of the bikes but it sure would please the ladies!!  | ||
| Mbsween |
Dan, Got the plugs, the other parts are tougher to come by  . Actually I was looking for a source for the discs for the WB E-series. Direct parts doesn't have them anymore  , that is a great store btw. Also do I need the longer screws (is this the NC17 area?) or will the stock endcap accomodate 16 discs? Thanks (for the info and entertainment  Matt | ||
| Buelliedan |
Matt, Chapparal and Dennis Kirk both sell the extra discs(spellled it right this time!!). You will need longer screws as well. | ||
| Detroit |
I have a 1998 S1 that has 1000 miles on the nallin rebuild. It ran great untill the other day on the expressway it started cutting out, sputtering, missing, and backfiring. It will run but it seems as though something is wrong with either A)the coil B)ignition box or C)the ignition advance. Like I stated it sputters backfires, and lunges. Under load this problem seems to worsen. It happened at once. The bike went from running excellent to running like crap as stated earlier. I looked through the vault but could not find my problem. Any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Coop |
Hey Fella's, my 2002x1 is at the dealer having the race ecm and the race air cleaner kit put on, what should I expect for rwhp from these mod's, will I really notice that much of a difference, cant wait to pick her up and find out, thank-you in advance. | ||
| Blake |
Coop, You should notice some improvement in low and mid-range power. A race header/muffler or at least a performance muffler will do even more to enhance your midrange performance. Check out the dyno charts. There is a copy of a race kit versus stock X1 copmparison dyno chart there. You might ask them to make a dyno run so you know for sure what your engine is doing. | ||
| Coop |
Blake thank-you, let me tell ya all about it, I picked my bike up today and they said everything was all set, race ecm and k&n air cleaner kit installed, after a hour on the highway in memorial day traffic I got home and wanted to see what she had, so at 3000 rpm I opened her up and she was breaking up really bad, backfiring thru intake, only under load though, totaly bogged down, I drove an hour back there and they worked on it for another hour and said the brand new ecm was bad, they put another one on they had and now I'm good, I bought it on sporttwin, guess I'm out 185.00, I have something to say about aircleaner and exhaust, I will post them in the apropriate place, oh yeah not much difference in power | ||
| Blake |
Did they install another race ECM? I'm REAL skeptical your first one was bad. More likely they didn't properly calibrate it wrt TPS. Unfortunately an all too common occurence. What dealer are you using? | ||
| Coop |
Blake, yes they set the tps, and checked timing, thay said timing was right where it was supposed to be, when they installed the new race ecm everything was fine, then right in front of me put the first race ecm in and drove it and it was running like crap again, he said this ecm is definately bad, put his race ecm in and I drove home and played around for a little while, and the bike was running very good, no bogging or backfiring, I'm using a dealer in ct called TSI harley davidson/ buell, they seem to be good with the buells, there were a lot of them there | ||
| Coop |
Blake, if in fact that was the case about not recalibrating the tps properly, they must have gotten lucky with second race ecm, I kinda thought the same thing, I drove an hour to go to what I thought was the better dealer around, the were a couple of dealers within a half hour of my house but it seemed that they did not deal with buells that much | ||
| Blake |
The fact that they simply stuck your original race ECM back in without recalibrating it wrt the TPS tells me immediately that they are either ignorant or were deliberately mucking with you. Each ECM MUST be properly calibrated wrt the TPS. I guess they assumed that the first callibration was good. That's a risky assumption in my book. The operation in question is not to "set the TPS", rather it is to calibrate the ECM to understand the exact voltage output from the TPS that corresponds to a fully, 100% closed throttle. The ECM is "taught" this voltage during the calibration process. It's very simple, but somehow some dealers just can't seem to grasp its importance or understand the big picture wrt DDFI. Some may actually believe that they are "setting the TPS", and as such, without strictly following service manual directions, why would they think to reset it again just for a new ECM. Sure, it's possible that you got a bad ECM. But it's more probable based on numerous reports here that your dealer misunderstood the proper TPS calibration procedure. I hope I'm wrong. In any case, I'm glad to hear your bike is running well. In the end, that's what really matters.  | ||
| Coop |
Blake, I think I will try a different dealer next time I have a problem, I think the harley dealerships should have specific mechanics to handle the buell related issues, and not just give the job to the next avaliable mechanic, but what do I know, I'm just begining this learning process myself, it would be nice to have a scanalizer. | ||
| Pmcburney |
Just wondering... Am attempting to fire up a friend's M2 that was purchased as a wreck without it's ECM/ignition module. I have a '99 X1 and I was going to substitute my ECM/ignition module on his M2 to get it going. Will this work? Are the ECM's on the two bikes that much different that the M2 won't run? Thanks Paul | ||
| Hootowl |
Without actually knowing the answer, I'm going to say no. The ecm on the X1 controls fuel and spark based on input from a number of sensors. The M2 is carburated and is lacking the sensors. Will it even plug in to the harness? Far as I know, the ignition module on the M2 is simply that, an ignition module. | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey all, Background info: 2001 X1, Race ECM, WB E-series pipe, gutted Airbox w/K&N adjustments so far: reset TPS, static timing, replaced O2 sensor (Bosch), NGK plugs, 16 discs in WB The bike is still fouling plugs even after adding the discs (16 total). It takes about 40 miles to foul the plugs, I though it would happen sooner. The bike runs great for the first 35, then performance deteriorates. One thing I noticed is some soot at the header-spipe junction. Which leads me the possibility that the exhaust is drawing clean air through the junction which is making the O2 sensor think the mixture is lean. Couple questions: Is this possible? Do the exhaust gasses in the pipe travel far enough back to reach the O2 sensor? That doesn't seem likely, but I've been known to be ignorant before  . Also what type of sealant can I use that won't cause the O2 sensor to die? Thanks Matt | ||
| Mbsween |
I think I have it!!! Problem 2001 X1 with: Race ECM, WB pipe, gutted airbox, surges/fouling plugs after riding 15 - 50 miles. I remembered that I had seen a trouble code before I had the original ECM replaced with the race ecm. The dealer never bothered to retrieve the code. I plugged in the old ecm and got the code, code 14 Engine temp sensor. The new ecm has the same code stored. Amazing the talent I have to overlook the obvious! Anyways, not wanting to go back/wait/... at the dealer does anyone know what the cost for the sensor is? Thanks Matt closer to being able to ride 50 miles at a time! | ||
| Jmartz |
This morning my bike quit running just as I approached my exit on the freeway. No electrical power whatsoever. Battery was fine starting the bike 20 miniutes earlier. Pushed it to the end of the ramp and, Voila!, power came back... Wonder if that main fusible link or self resetting circuit breaker opened up? Need a new bike or a complete and total restoration of this my beloved "dirty bird", which is, by the way, quite clean at the moment. | ||
| Pammy |
smadd had an electrical gremlin like that a while back. Same scenerio. one of the ground wires had an invisible break, I believe. Would only drop electrics when weight was on the bike and then it was sporatic. Better ask him directly. Or a complete "wiggle test" of ALL the wires. | ||
| Jmartz |
Thanks Pammy...I will take your advice under consideration. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jmartz, Check the smaller lead that is attached to the starter. There is a heavy cable from the positive post of the battery and a smaller cable bolted to the starter. This one supplies + to the rest of the bike. Mine broke inside of the boot. You couldn't see it. I had to jury rig a wire from the battery to the end of the wire in order to get home. A new crimp on connector (heavier than the stock unit) and I was back on the road. Brad | ||
| Jmartz |
BluzM2: Thanks, I'll look in there when I get home. When I went out for lunch I could not turn the ignition key very easily and the switch "nut" was loose. Perhaps something is going on with the key switch. More than once I've had to jump the bike because when I remove the key, although I've tried to turn it all the way, the parking light remains on and wears down the battery. | ||
| Socal |
Hmm . . . as of this weekend I also have an electrical cutout problem. Same situation as Jmartz; I was riding along and all of a sudden - no power, as if the ignition had been turned to the off position. Kept rolling to a stop, and just as quick as it shut off, the power came back on. I hit the starter button and off I go. This occurrence repeated 4 or 5 times on the same ride. I get home; wiggle that first visible plug/connector that plugs into the ignition to see if the connection is bad. I cleaned both ends and went for a test ride. Bike runs fine, no problems. On the way to work this morning, same thing - no power - fiddle with the connector: nothing. I roll the bike for a couple of feet with the ignition still on and the power pops back on ?!? Guess I'll spend lunchtime doing the "wire wiggle" ! | ||
| Socal |
Ok I just read what you wrote Bluzm2, I am going to check the same thing. | ||
| Socal |
Well, just got done checking lots of wires - oddly enough it seems to be the + battery cable. I say odd because visually, it seems to be just fine, from the battery to the starter - no kinks or breaks or loose connectors/frayed wires. Under the boot also looks fine, although from the way the boot cracked it seems that today was the first time it had been removed since '96! I'll just replace the + cable and see what happens. | ||
| Blake |
Could it be your + battery post? I've heard of a few batteries breaking/cracking a connection between post and plate. | ||
| Jmartz |
Happened again this morning and on my way home yesterday. There is no skinny cable coming out of the starter in a 1996 model power must be fed from elsewhere. I found the switch loose and tightened it but this did not cure the problem. I will bypass the switch tomorrow and see if the problem persists. Right now I'm focued on the ignition switch. I don't suspect a broken cable at this time as there is no intermitance in the quitting. | ||
| Socal |
Hmm . . could be Blake - I'll have to take a closer look at the post. | ||
| Jmartz |
Looked at the wiring diagram this evening. Given the total absence of power (no idiot lights) the problem has to be the switch or the circuit breaker. | ||
| Socal |
Well, I finally got the time to mess around with the bike a little (laughing at myself, I will ride it everyday, even with it stalling, but wont tear apart the bike until I have 'time'!  ), and I'm glad to report that it was just a connection thing. I removed the positive cable first, cleaned and wire-brushed the battery terminal, the starter bolt, and the cable itself as well as the bolt and nut that fastened it down. Then I did the same thing to the negative cable. I didn't realize that there are a few other wires that are using the same fastening locations as both the + and - cables, so even though all connections were tighter than finger-tight, I could see how if they weren't really torqued good it could be a weak connection. So all is good now ! |
