| Author | Message | ||
     Buelliedan |
Sorry, I couldn't remember the name of the fabric. I knew it was something like flannel!! Burlap?? Ouch, too itchy!!  | ||
| Pammy |
I think burlap is supposed to be the fabric of choice for us big, burly, backwood, southern gals  . Pete ya gotta make Bonneville...make Rocket envious. The guy(Wayne) that makes the fuel injected intakes for the Buells is bound for Holland in the next few days. I am on my own on the installation and programing. What are they gonna do with a big ol' hillbilly in Tulip Land? | ||
| Peter |
Pammy, I don't think Rocket even knows that Bonneville exists at the moment. There's a girl somewhere that has been able to put him in a very effective tail-spin...... When they find out what Wayne does, they'll probably sit him in a coffee shop and ask him to design the world's first "Direct Injected Bong". If he doesn't notice the girls behind the windows, he could come back a very rich man. PPiA | ||
| Pammy |
Girl? Always a source of distraction and trouble. But,That explains the haircut and the gym time. I guess I won't rank on him too much(for now). Wayne is a hoot. I hope he does have a good time in his travels. I didn't even wonder if there was a Mrs. Hillbilly... Pete you are still hanging out in the more interesting areas of the country as usual. | ||
| Peter |
That explains the haircut and the gym time. I guess I won't rank on him too much(for now). Why not? I am. He's a big fluffy skirt. I used to live in the Red Light district, two doors up from the Banana Bar. When I looked out the kitchen window, it was across a canal to the Sex Museum with the girl on the bicycle in the entrance with the seat that....hmmmm, Id better save the rest of that for another time and place. I'm a family man now, Pammy. Just  memories. PPiA | ||
| Bkw_Bmw |
I have been told that the number cast in the actual part is not always the part number used in the parts manual/computer system. Currently I am trying to determine which rear head I have i.e. stock or otherwise. (the joy of buying pre-owned ) Rear head: 16835-98YA Oh yeah, its a 95 S2 so its obvious this isn't an original unit. | ||
| Chrism |
Hi Folks, Pulled apart my '96 S 1 to find more power. Any way appears pistons are out .005" and the head gasket is around .052" How tight do you try to get the quench? I'm thinking .035"-.040" Also noted bores show honing crossmarks, but have six or more vertical stripes worn to a fingers width. Worn areas show no hone marks, crosshatch wiped clean. Skirts are black. Were the skirts coated from the factory or are mine black from blowby? I'm going to be putting in 1340 valves and will be cutting the pistons for larger valve reliefs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Chris | ||
| Aaron |
Correct me if I'm wrong, but your motor probably has flat top pistons with the small chamber Lightning heads, right? And don't those heads have an angled squish band shelf? | ||
| Jrh |
Bkw Bmw I thought i had some good news for you on the rear head question until i saw the A at the end of your part#,anyway the #s cast on my Y2000 M2 rear head which is the thunderstorm: 99 H-D 16835-98Y REAR John | ||
| Bkw_Bmw |
Jrh, Thanks for looking. I suspected T-storms, but wasn't positive. That saves a few dollars. Gee, if I hadn't had a base cylinder oil leak, I wouldn't have checked. Didn't think oil leaks could be a good thing. Brian | ||
| Blake |
Chris, Skirts are coated with some sort of solid lubricant, my stock '97 M2 pistons were the same as you describe. The wear pattern you see... I had the same on my 13K mile stock '97 M2 cylinders. Nallin Racing advised me that such a wear pattern is fairly typical and is due to thermal distortion of the cylinder. | ||
| Jrh |
HEY you guys are gonna like the article in the July issue of Cycle World.They make up a kind of real world type track + the FB does REAL well. If i knew how to use this computer? Oh well,Jose will probably post some of the article before i get this post typed anyway  John | ||
| José_Quiñones |
John, go for it I have not gotten mine in the mail yet | ||
| Chrism |
Aaron, Yes, it does have a slighlty angled squish area. I thought that bringing the piston up higher would make that more effective. I guess the other option, along with moving the piston up would be to weld up the squish area. That would make up for the cc's lost unshrouding the chamber for the larger valves. You don't happen to know what the S 1 heads cc volume was originaly? I seem to recall seeing a set of heads at the dealership that were bathtub shaped. Parts guy there seemed to belive that it helped flow. I think it just made the quench area more effective. Chris | ||
| Aaron |
Yeah, you could do that, basically make a bathtub chamber out of it. That's what they've done with the Firebolt head. TC88 heads and the SE Evo heads are like that, too. Bathtubbing with flat squish bands is a popular setup. Or you can put in a piston with a dome to match that angled squish band, but the compression will probably go too high unless you relieve the chamber quite a bit. No, I don't have the chamber volume, but those Lightning heads have a smaller chamber, to get 10:1 with a flat top. Think though about how much money you want to put into modifying those heads, versus buying a t-storm setup. The reason they went to a larger chamber with a dome and those angled squish bands is so that they could get bigger valves into them without causing shrouding. It's a good setup and it's reasonably priced. | ||
| Chrism |
Aaron, True, the price of the Thunderstorm set up is attractive. The problem is, a little knowledge and a machineshop at my disposal. Kind of like a lawyer who represents himself. Currently the costs incurred are $60 for big Evo valves, $30 for a top end gasket set and my frustration. I, in my enthusiasm, didn't measure the new valves for overall length and sunk the seats too far.  So this weekend, or maybe this afternoon, I'll be welding the seat area back up and installing new seats and cutting for the correct depth. Had hoped to make this a quicky so I could make the ride to Ephrata PA. this weekend. Around here the first Sunday of the month is a mass ride to mecca, probably 500 to 1000 bikes show up. A lot of neat and rare bikes show up. Sometimes there is a portable dyno that will do runs and has an A/F meter. I'd hoped to have it together to see what the big valves would do. Well here's to wishing for good luck and a little more patience to temper the enthusiasm. Chris | ||
| M2me |
Well, I’ve been busy fixing rocker box leaks the past couple of weeks. I now have the new one-piece steel gasket in both the front and rear. Hopefully, this will solve it long term. So far, no leaks. While fixing these leaks I noticed that my #12 and #13 bolts do not seem to jive with the official (2001 M2) Buell service manual. The manual claims the #12 bolts are 1/4" longer then the #13 bolts. All four of my bolts seemed to be exactly the same on both the front and rear cylinder. I stood them on end on a flat surface and they were straight across the top. No difference in length (of course, I did not think to actually measure them). I am pretty sure I got them back in the same side (push-rod vs. valve) that they came out of but has anyone else noticed this? Are the #12 and #13 bolts really different lengths? Mine sure don't seem to be. | ||
| Jrh |
Not that it has much to do with anything but it had me curious;on the AHDRA site in the swap+sale section a guy had advertised(now sold but trying to get more)a couple of what he described as new,1998 S1 engines,the 101 HP "W" version,direct from Buell with a bill of sale for race only,cases stamped for race only.Trans. elec.,etc.included,$2000 each | ||
| Jrh |
M2me Since my heads+rocker assys.are off+sitting on a shelf i just had a look at those bolts.Im looking at a Y2000 M2 + referring to a 1999-2000 Buell service manual.My older manual also shows 2 bolt lengths(these are the bolts holding down the rocker arm blocks,just making sure we're talking about the same bolts)the # 12s list as 2+ 3/4 in.long,the#13 list as 2+1/2 in.long. Ive got the 2 different lengths,the#12s measure 2+3/4 without its washer+is silver, the#13s measure 2+1/2 without washer + are kind of a gold color. When i sit each bolt in its hole the long,silver colored #12s do look way longer than i would expect but they thread in all the way.Is your bike used?Maybe a previous owner used wrong bolts?Maybe in 2001 the Factory used only 1 length of bolts+we're worrying about nothing?Wish i could tell you more,maybe someone else here can? BTW when i loosened those 4 bolts on each head,they each made a cracking sound so loud i went to my dealer + got replacements,they were real inexpensive + they were even in stock. | ||
| M2me |
Jrh I bought the bike brand new. Also, my bolts are not different colors. All four bolts are black. I am wondering if the factory made a change in 2001 and did not update the service manual. The dealer fixed the front leak the first time and I don't think they did a good job. Both the pushrod and valve sides were leaking after only 1900 miles. They used the paper gaskets (this was last Sept. before the "official" steel one piece gaskets were out). I hope the steel gaskets hold. I only have about 300 miles on the rear since I put the steel gasket in but there are no oil leaks at all so far. | ||
| Robr |
Anybody know how the new steel rocker box gaskets should be installed? Number side up? Should I use any gasket sealer? Thanks, Rob  | ||
| Robr |
 ..just found part of it in the archives, numbers up! What about the gasket sealer? Is it necessary? Thanks Rob | ||
| M2me |
Robr, I recently installed the steel gaskets and I didn't use any gasket sealer. I cleaned all surfaces of any old gasket material and oil and then installed them clean and dry. This is the same technique I used with my 1992 Sportster. In 9 years with that bike I only had one rocker box leak. I fixed it with paper gaskets and no gasket sealer. The paper gaskets do have some sort of bead though. Anyway, I have over 300 miles on my rear rocker box with steel gaskets, no gasket sealer and not a drop of oil has leaked. | ||
| Blake |
No gasket sealer! | ||
| Robr |
That gummy bead on the old paper ones had me wondering...Thanks guys! Rob | ||
| Chrism |
Question. If you mill the head .025" and run the thinner .032" headgasket to improve the quench, doesn't that create a lot of preload on the lifter? How much preload is tolerable? Thanks, Chris | ||
| Good_Boy |
 Hello all. I experienced a couple of hours (it's 3 Am in EUrope) a strage thing. Tried to do a somehow fast start at a traffic light. M2 jumped, and gooooooowap Ended with 2hp. I was running on only one cylinder. No mechanical noise, no bump. After plug check, I found front cylinder was not running (cold front pipe). Plugs are OK, spark is good, color is well too. Well, 150 km way back, done on the rear cylinder at 55 mph (90 kph). I checked oil level every 15 kms. But... Oil leak. From front cylinder. Big, big leak. Engine (and shoes) covered with oil. Dunno where it comes from. Top of the head, rockerbox ? hmmmmm... If someone experienced a cylinder "disablement " after a drag-start... could you help in diagnose ? I'm not a hooligan, engine was warm... I Think it comes from a malfunction in exhaust valve, not sealing well, because there is gas and spark... M2 has 9000 kms on the clock. God hates me, or is this a common problem ? Thanks | ||
| Blake |
Good Boy, That certainly isn't a problem I've ever heard of. I hope it is something easy to repair. I don't think God hates you either. | ||
| Good_Boy |
Hello Blake. Diagnostic shows : Broken exhaust valve, just at the grove where the two semi-rings hold the spring on the valve. So : Two pistons kisses, exploded guide with bits incrusted in the head, needs piston and head replacement. Cause : thermic gradient (engine was warm), or bad valve (problem within the metal) ? Maybe overrrevving, but I run the stock ECM... Does anyone has ever encountered this ? If He doesn't hates me, it could even be worse... Murphy's law made flesh...  | ||
| Blake |
Pierre, Sounds like a defective or out of tolerance valve or valve guide to me. Is your M2 still covered by warranty? Where did the oil leak originate? | ||
| Good_Boy |
Blake, Oil leak comes from under the tank. Where exactly.. mmmh, exhaust I would say. The guide exploded, so oil could come from the head... The oil seem to come from the lower part of the head, even cylinder... I think the engine must have swallowed lots of oil, and gas... (air/fuel mixture) Because I rode with the exhaust valve wide open and no guide to 'seal'.. So air/ fuel must have gone in the head, and maybe back to the air filter... Must be horrible inside teh air filter. What could I do to remove all the burnt oil deposits the rear cylinder has now ? some magic valve cleaner chemical to mix with fuel ? The defective tolerance should have been pointed before, I think. Mileage of 9000 kms. Still under warranty, but 3 weeks of pain before I can ride againe... Sounds to me like a quick revving, overheat the lower end of the valve, and gradient temp done the rest, because there is a much greather metallic mass where the semi rings hold the spring & valve together... "clac" Thanks May the oil be with you | ||
| Blake |
Some dealerships sell a special engine cleaning aerosol spray that you squirt into your warm running engine at a fast idle. It purportedly is great for removing carbon from the combustion chamber. | ||
| Dynarider |
Good boy. My X1 dropped 2 valves. First one was in the front head at 2400 miles, 2nd one was the rear head at somewhere around 4700 miles. Dealer never gave me an explanation, I dont even know if it was the intake or exhaust. Warranty covered it, but Buell said no more. I have the race ecm & yes the limiter is intact & functional. Personally I think it was simply some bad parts got thru. The engine was warmed up both times, & believe it or not I was actually babying it when it happened. I like to ride hard, but both times this happened I was doing maybe 40 mph & turning about 3000 rpms. | ||
| Good_Boy |
Dynarider, Did both valve swallowings happened within the one year warranty ? I have been working in a engine remanufacturing firm, and when a valve cut/broke near the spring, it was due to a bad machining of the guide / wrong semi rings fitting (usually only one out of two). Well, these big truck engine were not so high perf engines, but.... Bad luck, uh ? I was kind of happy it did not lock the engine. Would have been painful. Always keep a resting finger on the clutch ! Thanks | ||
| Dynarider |
Both of these incidents happened within 4 months of me buying the bike. There is more to this whole warranty story too. Buell is refusing to do any further repair work on my engine because I ride it too hard. There example was, get this.... I have a 96 Harley Wideglide, I put 50,000 miles on this bike & she was starting to burn quite a bit of oil & a few other things started acting up. I decided to go with the Harley engine remanufactured engine deal where they rebuild your engine & give you a 1 yr warranty. Got the bike back & she ran great..for 100 miles. Was riding with the wife & bike started acting funny. Took it home & called the dealer, they told me to bring it in. Got within 1 mile of them & the engine died. Diagnosis from my dealer was "Harley never even looked at the bottom end" They did a top end rebuild only, thats not what I paid for. So myself & the dealer bitched & chewed Harley out over this & they swore up & down they rebuilt the entire thing, but they agreed to "rebuild it" again. So back to the factory it goes, 1 week goes by & wheres my engine? I call them up & they say they shipped it out already. Yea..to janesville & I live in kenosha, so they had to go get it & bring it to my dealer again. To make a long story longer  The bike has been running great for over 1.5 yrs & 6000 miles, but Buell says "Hey, didnt you go thru the engine rebuild program?" I say yes, they say "you have a history of abusing your bike so we wont honor the warranty any longer". A history??? 50,000 miles & I decide to have a rebuild, which I paid cash for & its a goddamn history?? Screw the Buell warranty, if she blows again I am going to go either Nallin or S&S. I really do like my Buell, but I cant stand the shitty customer non-support I recieved. | ||
| Blake |
Dyna, Your dealer is FOS. They cannot simply decide to not honor your warranty. It is a VERY legal and VERY binding contract. Trust me on this. Did you talk to BCS or just go through the dealer. | ||
| Dynarider |
Blake, I talked directly to Buell & depending on the day I would get different answers. 1 day they said it would be no problem, & if my dealer wouldnt work on it, go find another dealer. That was from John at customer service. But then I ended up getting involved with some woman who's name I believe was Rene & wow was she ever a bitch. She's the one who came up with the whole deal about my Dyna & how they would no longer honor the warranty & she was logging it in the system. Told me my warranty was basically null & void on a 4 month old bike. I asked how they can do that & she told me it was because I changed the ecm & muffler so it was now a race bike. What a joke. | ||
| Elteem2 |
 My 2000 M2 has almost 20k miles on it, mostly commute driving, but I have taken advantage of the available torque when the road allowed. Last week on my way home was a normal drive- 35-55 mph for 12 miles then clogged freeway for a few miles. The last mile on the freeway was clear and I had it up to about 80 for a minute. It was hot (low 90's) & the "wind" felt good. Then another mile of street traffic to the house. All seemed normal. The next morning when I started the bike it sounded like a couple of rocks (big ones) were dancing around in the engine. I couldn't tell where the noise originated, so hoping it was something in the primary, I pulled the clutch cover and inspection cover. Nothing looked out of place so I pulled the primary cover to check the nut on the (?) main shaft. All nice and tight. I pulled the sparkplugs and rotated the motor by hand - it felt smooth, no grinding or dragging. Finding nothing to fix, I put it all back together. Hoping that maybe the primary tension was just too loose, and having just "adjusted" the tension when I put the cover back on, I started the bike. Perfect! No sound but the exhaust. Lots of relief. Scared myself into thinking it was worse than it was. I took it for a test run, and a mile from the house the problem came back. I babied it back home. No noticible loss of power (at least not @ VERY low rpm). I could feel the knock/rattle in my feet though. Any thoughts/ideas on the problem and what it might take to rectify would be greatly appreciated. I could not scrape up the money for the extended warranty, so I'm on my own on this. Thanks! | ||
| Ccryder |
Elteem2: Let me relate, well better yet look here Look at My 08:10 pm Post. Anyway from what you described my Stripe'r sounded the same. Stripe'r is about the same mileage and year. Your crankshaft nut may just be in the midst of cracking or loosing it's clamping force. Last summer, after Home Coming, my crankshaft primary seal failed. It was replaced and then after a few miles I had the noise you depicted. Like a good Buelligan I had my Dealer check it out and he found the crankshaft nut was not as tight as it should be so he torqued it to spec. This cleared up the noise until a few weeks ago when that same nut decided it wanted to finally crack it's flange and loose it's torque, again, and the noise started again. My suggestion is to get that nut torqued to spec. It is not easy to do because of the spec. and trying to lock the crankshaft with the clutch. Also your nut should look like the one in my subsequent posts. If it appears to be a "locknut" type nut it is covered under a S/B and needs to be replaced ASAP. BTW, if you have not updated your primary chain tensioner shoe, now is a very good time to invest that $15. Time2Work Neil S. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Elteem2... along the lines of Neil's addendum... did you actually pull the primary chain tensioner and look at the backplate? It may be as simple as a cracked tensioner, what you are describing sounds a lot like what I saw when mine cracked. Did you also have wonky shifting (err.. more wonky then normal anyway)? When tensioner backplate cracks, it still partially supports the shoe. So the first crack suddenly looses correct chain tension, leading to boxes of rocks noises in the primary. You pull in, notice the tension is way too loose, adjust accordingly, and it looks OK. The place was cracked, but still in one piece, and the shoe was intact. From an engine standing still perspective, everything looks perfect. The cracked backplate tensioner will maintain tension and still adjust normally. You go back on the road, and the shoe and cracked backplate (one or both) now break, and you have a second huge chain tension failure, making it sound just like the first, maybe worse as you may (or may not) now have pieces of the metal backplate or nylon tensioning shoe now banging around in the primary. If the backplate has split, you may even have what looks like a perfect primary chain tension while the bike is parked, but badly out of adjustment tension when the bike has a load on it (because the plastic deforms under load and has not broken yet. Just replace the tensioner regardless, it's only $15 or so, and you can probably save the gasket if you just had it off. Frankly, I would be amazed if it were NOT broken on a 2k m2 with that many miles. Bill | ||
| Wruffus |
Dynarider, Please keep us updated with detailed information on this warrantee issue. BMC lurker, This will be a big mistake if Buell doesn't handle this correctly. I'd suggest accellerating dyna's satisfaction and some gesture like an apology or moving the problem employee to another job, at least temporarily. Is Rene's manager aware that her supervisor is not keeping track of her performance? The warranty, goodwill programs, and John's great work on the phone are the only things that keep many of us from jumping ship. Remember, the HD dealers openly despise us Bueller owners. These items are the only positives in the Buell/customer relationship. Suddenly an FJR1300 and Cecil fan, Bill | ||
| Elteem2 |
Neil & Bill Thanks for the thoughts. The nut looks just like the one in the pic. I replaced the old tensioner many miles ago with the beefier one. I should have mentioned that when I got home I did re-check the tension and it was still good. Now I'm wondering how closely I looked at the tensioner while I had it off. I know I looked at the plastic (barely worn) but I don't remember looking for cracks in the plate. Guess I'll start there, and check the torque on the nut again. Thanks again! | ||
| Jrh |
BMC Lurker If you're out there,please also note the above posts by Pierre"GoodBoy"+ note in his personal profile, he's from all the way over in France. I dont know the specifics of his engine problems, only what he's written here, but the right thing for Buell to do seems clear,he needs assistance ASAP.Thanks if you can help,and if you can't,well i guess there's always GSXRs,R1s,954s,maybe even Voxens. John | ||
| Reepicheep |
Or even better, the Cagiva Raptor. Kinda like his Cyclone, but with 30 more horsepower | ||
| Dynarider |
Wruffus, the only reason I even bought a Buell was because I had heard good things about the customer support. Yes i realize they are not perfect bikes, but when a 1 month old bike dies I expect action from the company, not excuses. I had heard about Buell extending goodwiil service on bikes 3 & 4 yrs out of warranty. Yet here I sit with a bike thats maybe 1 yr old & I have no warranty at all. Granted right now the bikes running great, but after what I went thru, who wouldnt be a little nervous & pissed off. My attitude now is if it blows again I will replace every last harley manufactured engine part in the bike. I want to ride, not sit on the side of the road waiting for a tow. | ||
| Elteem2 |
Follow up to my plea for help... 1st off, I posted here originaly because I was afraid something was wrong in the engine after I thought I had eliminated the stuff under the primary cover. Thankfully, I was wrong! I pulled the primary again and took a good look at the chain tensioner. I could not see anything wrong with it. I know the chain exerts a lot more pressure than I could manually, but I couldn't make it distort at all. I re-checked the torque on the nut on the main shaft - I did get a slight turn on it, less than a half-inch of travel at the handle of a long torque wrench. I decided to get a new chain tensioner anyway, just in case. Like Bill said, it's only 15 bucks. I made the drive to the dealer 20 miles away (after I verified by phone that they had 3 of them in stock). After re-assembly it sounded good at idle, no bad noises. A mile on the streets and another mile on the highway still sounded good, so I declared it safe to ride to work today. 20 miles to work and all sounds great. Thanks guys! | ||
| Al_Lighton |
isn't this part only 20-30 bucks new?engine mount | ||
| Adaleb |
Came back from a quick ride last night to the sound of a "medium toned" engine knock on my S3T. this s 2000 fuelie model that has been absolutley babied for 4500 miles. Oil cooler, fan kit, rocker box gaskets redone about 2000 miles ago, etc. Oil has been changed at least four times in 4500 miles. The knock is somewaht low pitched, but not real low (e.i. does not sound like a lifter - at least I don't think). May be on the cam side? Primary chain seems to be fine with about 1/4 play when fully hot. Oil pressure is up and pumping back into the tank. Could this just be normal noise that I was not used to hearing in the past? Could primary chain be too tight (adjusted at about 1000 miles only)? motor revs freely, no loss in power (at least that I can notice). Suggestions? Thanks, Dale | ||
| Lesco51 |
I have Andrews .550 lift cams in my bike and rocker arms bumped the rocker box cover, any suggestions on how to get enough clearance?? | ||
| Sarodude |
Any thoughts on head gasket re-use? -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
Saro, I wouldn't do it with the stock composition gaskets. These Cometic EST's can be reused several times, though. Lesco, it's a simple matter to clearance the cover a touch, right above the pushrod end of the rocker. Aftermarket rockers also generally provide more clearance, but at only .550 lift I wouldn't expect you'd have to go that far. | ||
| Sarodude |
Thanks, Aaron... -Saro | ||
| Leeaw |
I cannot find my manual for my 99 M2, and want to change the leaking front rocker box gasket. I bought the new metal version kit, but have never done this before. Is it easy enough to do, or should I wait the two weeks for the dealer? I know the issue of needing a cut-down allen wrench, and I really need to get to know my bike better. And can someone possibly send me a copy of the pages to do this, or the steps and torquing procedure? | ||
| Rick_A |
Anybody have experience with the Scotts (www.scottsonline.com) stainless oil filter? It has a reusable filter element and some pretty good features. Rockerboxes are easy. Just a few tools and a torque wrench are all you need. A couple hours max. | ||
| Wruffus |
Had a great time drag racing but now my front header pipe is blued all the way back to where it meets the rear header pipe and my leg is roasting. What should I check and in what order? | ||
| Blake |
Heat discolors exhaust pipes. You might be lean in the front cylinder. Check for intake leak by spraying WD40 or contact cleaner all around the manifold seals with the bike at a fast idle (~2000 rpm). If idle speed drops, you have found an intake seal leak. Replace seals with new one from your dealer or one of our sponsors. As for the heat on your leg, I wrapped my header, no more noticeable heat and I like the way it looks too. | ||
| Wruffus |
Blake, Thanks. I'll do the leak test. I should have been more specific. I haven't been bothered by hot pipes before a recent hot day of hard riding. Since then, for the last few days, my leg is cooking, even just cruising. The front pipe blued back another 6 inches over the weekend. The back pipe looks the same as always. Hey!! I just remembered, I also gutted the airbox early last week, but the race ECM should have picked up on that by now. I guess I'll look at the plugs too. I'm due for some quality time with the stand, milk crate, torque wrench and manual anyway. "Yes dear, they say I could have a serious problem and I better look into it now" Hope "Mrs. Blakes" birthday was a success. | ||
| Blake |
All, BadWeB is in the process of instituting a new format for all Knowledge Vault (KV) topics. The aim is to facilitate navigation and improve the performance of forum specific key word searches. The change entails eliminating the single ongoing linear thread for each KV topic in favor of additional, more specific, subtopics along with new user created subjects. Please therefore post new technically oriented questions via the "Create New Conversation" button within the appropriate KV topic ( as it becomes available). In doing so, please try to word your subject title with keyword searching in mind, so that others with similar questions/problems might easily find your KV subtopic/subject. It would also be very beneficial if you would include the year and model of the subject Buell motorcycle in parentheses, like ('97 M2), at the end of the subject title. And few example subject titles would be... Speedometer failure ('99 M2) or Brand x muffler falling apart. ('01 X1)That ain't too much to ask is it?  Thanks, Admin |
