| Author | Message | ||
     Seeeu911 |
xgeco..I use the ferodo cp911 pads. not as sharp a bite when cold but when warmed up will hurt you they grab so good.  | ||
| S1lightning |
Front rotor question??? This may sound stupid, but my front rotor is loose!! I mean the damn thing is loose from the hub ring, not from the hub itself. I tightend the 6 bolts holding it to torq specs but they bottom out before they tighten??? Any suggestions?? Love to hear from a front break freak!!  fischer.3@worldnet.att.net | ||
| Hootowl |
Pre 00 models (not all? What year is your S1?) had replaceable rotors on a non replaceable rotor carrier. (Just TRY to get the damn thing off. I ended up grinding a slot in the head of the bolt and beating it with a cold chisel.) They tend to rattle after a while as the components wear. Try to rotate it. It shouldn't rotate an appreciable amount. A little side to side is normal and is part of the "floating rotor" feature. Mine started rattling at about the 15K mile mark, and I replaced it with the '00 unit which is of a different design. If you replace the brake carrier, I've been told that if you strike the bolts with a brass punch, they will back out under steady torque (no impact tools). It didn't work for me, but I figured I'd mention it. | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
On the subject of brake rotors, I see the part # is H0201.R . Is there a matching H0201.L ? Steve http://ukbeg.com steve@ukbeg.com | ||
| Caboose |
Looking to replace my stock front brake pads with some high performance one's. Would the EBC HH pads be a good choice? What's the part number for them? | ||
| Jmartz |
Finally got around to putting a dial indicator on the Ferodo rotor. It runs out .014 ..., hmnnnn... could the be the cause of the pulsations? At 1st I thought that this measuement would not be accurate give the "floating" nature of the design but the indicator stayed at zero for a good portion of the rotation and then took a trip to .014 and back. If the blade was not coplanar with the carrier and it was flat the dial would have changed constantly throughout the wheel rotation. Need to measure again to be sure but I am inclined to think the rotor is warped. Lets see $400 divided by 2000 is... Jose | ||
| Johnc |
Jmartz, rotor runnout is not the major cause of brake pulsation. Thickness variation is. Measure the thickness of the rotor at about 20 different positions around its circumferance. The usual specification for max thickness variation is .0005" (1/2 a thou). Hope this helps. | ||
| Jmartz |
Johnc: I rode the bike this morning and opend it up prior to my freeway exit. Began a quick but controlled deceleration from 120 mph making the brake work hard. This brake is not better than the factory units. It requires more pull force and is less effective overall. Pulsations are not felt in the lever, ever. When clamped at speed operation seems normal. It is when attempting to come to a stop in traffic from say 30 mph to 0 that this "catch and release" is felt. The thickness seems constant throughout the blade but I'll measure it again to be sure. The pads looked beat up with a few missing edges. Perhaps trying new pads is something worthwhile. | ||
| S3dave |
EBC HH pads for a 2000 S3 are PN FA249 HH. Same pads as Kawi ZX7R | ||
| Caboose |
Thanks S3dave. Ended up going with some GFE full race pads from EBC. | ||
| Jmartz |
Once again I'm in love with my bike. New tires (and isolators in this case) make a world of difference in handling. No more forcing the bike to stay in the line I choose for it during curves. No more dancing as constant curve corrections make it necessary to hold the line. | ||
| Jmartz |
Got to get out of the habit of wating till the threads come out before replacing my tires. Nails have been forcing me to do early replacements. Last Michelin pilot, 2 nails in the 1st 200 miles, 3 altogether. The one before that succumbed to a puncture just last month well before the wear bars were flush with the rolling surface. | ||
| S1lightning |
Hootowl, thanks for the reply, It's a 1998 with 6,500 miles HARD miles, the kid that rode it before me tried everything you shouldn't I'm afraid!! There are six bolts holding the disc in place. Hex head on the out side, and lock nut inside of disc. What is a 00 kit? How much? | ||
| Rick_A |
 I ran over a tack tonight. It penetrated 3/8" into my tire. I hammered it into an old tire to see how far it punctures...and it doesn't go all the way through...but I am still concerned. Any tire experts out there? | ||
| Jmartz |
Rick: Shop liabilities and bleeding heart librealism aside, these motorcycle tires are quite hearty. I routinely put 12 to 15 K on a front tire with at least one plug. I've put 9 K miles on a rear with 3 plugs. Forget the puncture. Check your tires pressures and when and if you get to the hole think about what to do then. Like my buddy says when he changes a tire that is about halfway through its life "I think I could have gotten another couple of rides out of that tire but I just went ahead and replaced it anyway". Jose | ||
| Hootowl |
S1Lightning, The 00 and up bikes use a different front rotor. They run about a hundred bucks. You'll need to buy new bolts as they are different as well. This is the whole rotor, not just the disk. It's one piece. OK it's two pieces, but they don't come apart like the 98 model. I'm not sure of the brake pad composition of the 98's or what the rotor is made out of, but the 99 and up is stainless steel, and you need to use 99 up brake pads. See the top of this topic for part # details. | ||
| Rick_A |
Yeah...she's still holding air. To be sure I put the tack through an old tire to see how far it goes through. Then I punctured it with a screw to guage how much rubber was left unpenetrated. It's 1/8". I hope that's enough! | ||
| Mikej |
This has probably been asked before, but the discussion over in the XB section prompted me to ask: Will the XB's D207 Dunlops fit and work on "older" Buells like an M2 or S2? Front looks good, both listed as 120/70x17. Rear looks questionable, 180/55x17 vs 170/60x17. I read that the XB tires are lighter, just wondering if there is more to the story beyond the weight and size, like sidewall flex and other handling characteristics. Just curious at this point. | ||
| Andys |
All Buells with Nissin calipers are matched with stainless rotors. And yes, the pads are the same as a Yamaha R7 and a Kawi ZX7RR (with Nissin calipers). Some ZX7RR's came with Tociko calipers and those pads do not fit our bikes. To save as much money as possible and to get rid of the original rotor whose button holes had elongated (on the carrier) I went with the 00 rotor assembly and am very happy with the result. Personally, for as much of a safety issue that brakes are, I think replacing both the carrier and rotor together is a wise choice and for the price of the OE replacement I think it is a well justified choice at that. | ||
| Mbsween |
Ok how a bout a bite question  I have a about 5400 mile on a 2001 x1 and the front brake doesn't have the "bite" it used to. I aslo notice the need for more lever travel. I've bled the system, that helped, but its not what it used to be. Do the pads usually wear out this quickly? Thanks Matt | ||
| Ara |
Matt - That depends on how agressively you ride and how much heavy braking you do. I've got well over 20K on my S3, ride easily, and I still have quite a bit of pad left. Visually check your brake pads, and see. Check both the outer and the inner and from multiple angles. Remember that the pad's backing plate contributes to the observed thickness. If the pads look sufficiently thick, you might want to change out your brake fluid. Make CERTAIN that you use the right type, and bleed your brakes with a length of aquarium tubing attached to the nipples so that you don't inadvertantly introduce air into the system while bleeding - common mistake. Russ | ||
| Treich |
Hi all First post in a long time due to a wreck jan 7 02 ($4,000 damage for bike and $60,000 for leg) I now have a titanium plate and 10 screws in me. Another story in wich I do have pic's of the inside of my leg not for the squimish that i can post. But on to the topic. I need new break pads and of coarse the dealers here will not have any and was wondering if any of the Metric bikes use the same pad's I have a 98 S3T without the rotor up date but was thinking about doing that also so both part #'s would be cool. | ||
| Blake |
Treich, Check out the pads offered by American Sport Bike or give Sport Twin a call for a set of OEM pads. Sorry to hear about your accident. Glad to see you back in the mix and healing. | ||
| Jasons1 |
I just put a D207 180 on my '96 S1, and am having problems with the belt rubbing the tire when I lean it to the right. Has anyone else ever put a 180 tire on an S1? Is there a spacer I can buy to stop this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. | ||
| Jmartz |
Jason: I've using 180's on my S1 (same year) since the 1st tire replacement. For several changes I used the Dunlop D207 and D207 GP. There has always been .125 or so between the tire and belt. Now I use Michelin Pilots that also fit w/o problem. I'm not sure what to tell you. Do you have the 5.5 inch wide PM's? | ||
| Jasons1 |
JMartz, I'm not too sure what's going on. As I'm riding down the road, it's no problem. But if I hit a big enough bump, I can feel it rub slightly. Or, mostly, when I lean to the right, I can really feel it...only through the footpegs though, not the bars. When turning left, there's no problem at all. I just did a track day on Saturday at Nelson Ledges here in OH (11 rights with only 2 lefts) and I could really feel it rubbing. Probably shouldn't have run with that tire, but I really didnt' want to miss the track day, so I risked it. I'm wondering if I have a spacer in there wrong or something....I'll go talk to a mechanic at my local shop, but if there's anything else you, or anyone else out here, can think of, please let me know. I really don't wanna ruin my belt, or risk having it break and wrap around the rear tire....that would be bad. Thanks. - Jason | ||
| Archer |
Anyone know where i can get a right side caliper and rotor ONLY. without buying the entire left and right side assembly? Trying to do dual disc without breaking the bank. Any ideas?????? thanks | ||
| Pilk |
Jason, is everything else OK? Isolators,ect. The 180 shouldn't rub even with the 5 inch wheel. Pilk | ||
| Rick_A |
I have a 180 on a 5.5" PM and have about 1/4" belt clearance. Trojan Horse carries a left side rotor and caliper for Buells. | ||
| Blake |
Jason, Check alignment of rear axle and integrty of isolators. You belt should NOT be rubbing tire. |
