| Author | Message | ||
     Schemky |
Trip Meter Malfunction??? My tripmeter is possessed. After reassemblying my M2 this winter (installed a color matched S3T fairing) one of the instrument cluster wires "sparked" during the re-routing process. Don't know if this has anything to do with my current problem. Now my tripmeter will only register when it is on "trip". When on the "odo", trip mileage will not register. This is aggravating since my trip is my fuel gauge. Any suggestions?? | ||
| Bomber |
Schemky . . . ..ddja check yer fuses? my ysk MaDuece did exactly the same thing . . . . I figured that, since it was sorta kinda working, it couldn't be anything as simple as a fuse . . . . I was wrong | ||
| Blake |
So if you leave the display in "trip" mode it works okay, but when you put it in "odometer" mode (total mileage) it fails to log/accumulate trip miles? Sounds like you fried something with your "spark" encounter. A new gauge is probably in order. | ||
| Schemky |
Tripmeter Addendum: I did not relay this on the first post, but I noticed everytime I turn the ignition switch on and off, the tripmeter resets to -0-. Bomber, I will check the fuse holder this evening when I get home. Since I gave the electrons a virtually unlimited path when I created the spark, a fuse should have blown, thanks for the tip. Blake, you may be right, I hope not though. Since I created a ground path without the speedo in the circuit, I have a hard time seeing how it could be faulty. | ||
| Bigmac |
not sure where to post this but my 2000 M2's rear tank is cracked on both sides just in front of the mounting bolt. has any one had this problem? if so was it covered by the manufactures warrenty mike | ||
| Schemky |
BOMBER, You da' MAN. Yep, it was as simple as a friggen' fuse. Text Replaced the fuse, voila', tripmeter works  . I owe ya' but probably will never repay ya!! Thanx  | ||
| Blake |
COOLIO!!! Gotta make the "Carl of Sling Blade" response... Reckon the fuse is burnt, uhhhhuhhh. Way to go Bomber.   | ||
| Bomber |
Schemky . . .no charge, brother . . .. . this joint has saved my butt more times than I can remember . . . ..seems only right to help out a bit when I can (which is not nearly as ofdten as I'd like ,smile>  Blake . . . making many mistakes is one way of learning, yes? if so, why ain't I a genius? giggle | ||
| Mikej |
Bigmac/Mike, I haven't head of any failures like you mention to any M2 tanks. Check with your local dealership and see if they'll do a goodwill exchange. Where are you located? | ||
| Bigmac |
mikej, i am in massachusetts and i have talked to my dealer and he said he would take a look at it i will let you know what happens mike | ||
| Caboose |
After removing the side stand (for track day use) how do you by-pass the the side stand switch? | ||
| Blake |
You can do one of three things.. 1. Remove switch and plug a jumper into the connector to short the circuit like when the switch is closed (kickstand up). That's what I did. You can cram a wad of aluminum foil into the connector and tape it over securely if you don't feel like being elegant and finding another compatible connector to use as a jumper plug. 2. Leave the switch in place; install a jumper between the two wires. 3. Leave switch in place, but tape or rig it to stay closed. | ||
| Caboose |
Mission accomplished. After much searching I found the matching male connector at an electrical supply store. Simply twisted the two wires together, with a tiny marette and sealed it up with some silicone. No more side stand inter-lock switch. | ||
| Bomber |
I've a question for the collective . . . i've heard a great deala about our Buells eating batteries at an accelerated rate (compared to other, smoother running bikes) . . . cracked paltes, internal shorts and the like. .when the batteries let go, do they give you a warning at all, or just, zippo bang, i've gone south? ive got the original in my Y2K ma duece, and am wondering if I'm pushing my luck | ||
| Blake |
M2's are gentle on batteries from my experience. If you maintain your battery by keeping it charged, you should have no worries for at least three of four years. A naturally dying battery can go slowly or quickly dpending on its usage. Usually the fully charged voltage will start to drop from its optimum 13.4V due to a buildup of plate deposits. Once it drops to 12.5V or less, it's time for a new battery. Got a voltmeter? Check the battery a day after a long ride or after a full charge. If it's voltage is okay, it should be fine. | ||
| Bomber |
thank you sir . . .. I did check the voltage, and all seems to be well . . . .. the engine's stumbling and cutting out around 4g very intermittantly, anad I thought I'd check the battery first . . .it was, of course, just fine, bt I thought I'd check the history . . .. . .thanks again | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bomber, Check the battery connection at the starter. There is two wires. The big one is from the battery, the small one is the + feed to the rest of the bike. On my M2 the small wire's lug broke in two. It would make contact most of the time and the bike ran perfect. At certain RPM's it would separate due to vib's. The bike would stumble and falter then pick up and run fine. It finally let loose all the way. I made a cheater wire out of some 8 guage stranded, put one end on the positive post and stripped about 3 inches on the other end and wrapped it tightly around the small wire that was suppose to attach at the starter. A little electrical tape and I was on my way home again. Might not be your problem, but's easy enough to check. The ends of both wires are inside the same rubber boot at the starter so you will need to pull the boot back and do the "wiggle test". Brad | ||
| Bomber |
Brad . . . .I LOVE the wiggle test . . . .. thanks for the tip . . . . . those wires seem fine, thanks, but I think I'll continue to wiggle (good thing I'm alone in the garage,yes?) | ||
| Jmartz |
Just got a set of '99 and later controls (switch boxes) I had ordered. For general info I want to mention that the plugs do not match and need to be retrofitted to the controls in order to use them. HD sells the plugs and the pins so its a fairly easy swap if you have the crimping tool. I will always solder for peace of mind as I never ever want to get in there again. Not happy with the throttle side (and might return it) because of the blind cover. The original left side had the on/off switch for the lights (a crime in the US). What the hell is there a cover on the right side for? Throttle cable adjustment and actuation design is much better. Cable tightness is done with bare fingers (no tools required) and it seems that the box can be assembled much easier during cable oiling or replacement. The late model left side has a superior signal light switch that might actually last. Jose | ||
| Andys |
Hi Guys, I need to get one of those Hawk batteries for my CBR and I don't remember who sells them. I don't want a Yuasa because those guys are cheating us by not changing the way they build those things. They are experiencing "sudden battery failure" no matter how new they are (I'm sure that you've read about this problem if you subscribe to Motorcycle Consumer News). I need to find a place that can give me the dimensions of the batteries for I'm sure there is be no direct replacement battery for my CBR which uses a YB14LA-2. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Aaron |
Hey Andy ... check out this site ... they have dimensions here. Accoding to Interstate, a YB14LA-2 is 5-5/16L x 3-9/16W x 6-5/8H. Unfortunately, I don't see an Odyssey that fits. | ||
| Ccryder |
Andy: Try Odessey Batteries or Hawker Energy Later Neil | ||
| Andys |
Thanks for all the help everyone. | ||
| S2pengy |
A question for S2 owners... The dash idiot lights on the S2 are different from the other models and appear to be of HD orgin (no y in the part number)... In the maintance manual it states that if a light goes out the entire idiot light bar assy must be replaced as a unit... Anyone replaced or up dated to the later style with interchangable bulbs???? Or grafted the older bulbs to the later idiot light housing?????  | ||
| Court |
Todd: I have replaced bulbs, but your comments lead me to beleive that it was not an S-2. Bulb replacement requires a great deal of patience. I have a complete 1997 S-1 indicator lamp harness that's your's if you'd like to give it a shot. Court | ||
| Henrik |
Todd: took a quick look at the idiot lights. Each light it press fit into the assy from the front - then a thin "front cover" is clipped/glued to the front face. That's what makes it impossible to replace each individual light. My guess is, that if you can ease the front cover off, you'll be able to change the individual lights. I don't know if you can buy those lights individually though. Henrik (took some pictures, but the Mac is acting up and refuses to talk to my camera  ) | ||
| Snowdave |
Anyone have an X1 wiring harness diagram they could post or e-mail. I own an M2 and bought the manual, but now I am ready to start my EFI conversion and I don't want to buy an X1 manual just to get the wiring diagram. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Pilot |
Give me a fax number and you shall receive your copy of the wiring diagram Ross | ||
| Fresh |
Snowdave, Just out of curiousity can you mail me or post a list of the parts required for FI conversion. And did you come accross some good info somewhere ? Maybe in the future i might be tempted to do FI on my S1. Gonna buy thunderstorms after this summer so like to get the ones with the temp sensor location just in case. Like to keep my options open in case i get bored during wintertime. Thx. Fresh | ||
| Barebonez |
Has anyone been able to locate a replacement headlight lens for an S-1? Mine is cracked and Buell only sells the complete headlight assembly, to the tune of $159.10! Thanks, Kurt |
