| Author | Message | ||
     Aaron |
Oh, you know the same thing ... I just posted it first! | ||
| Thunder |
Ignition Gremlin is back.... Last year I had an issue with my 00 S3T. The 20 amp ignition fuse would randomly blow? I took all the body work off and looked for wire chaffing from the upper frame to the swingarm area. I found possible area between the inline starter fuse and the seat/tank bolt, fixed that and the bike ran good for a week and then started blowing the ignition fuse again. Topeka Buell took the starter relay and ignition relay and switched them, they rode it 450 mi. with no trouble. I picked the bike up Aug. 2001 from them and have put around 4K on it. I did a 900 mi ride last weekend to MITM and rode the bike to work 04/15, and started blowing fuses again? I had a replacement relay so I put it in the ignition socket, rode it home and it is still blowing the damn things... anyone ever had this trouble .. I've had it torn down looking for the obvious, chaffing- frame/heim joints etc.??? Buell has never heard of this trouble... I hate being unique when it comes to trouble!!  Jeff | ||
| Sparky |
Another path for possible ignition shorts is in the routing of the harness to the on/off switch on the handlebar. Look for a broken wire strand near the multipin connectors under the tank or in the right hand control assembly. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Blake |
Also check the wiring/cabling routed behind the cam cover. I once ran my breather tube straight down behind the cam cover and within 500 miles was intermittently blowing ignition fuses. I rerouted the breather and never blew another fuse. I have no idea what the root cause was. Strange eh? | ||
| Chrism |
Gentlemen, alright Aaron, have you ever played with the VOES to see if you could change the torque curve? What happens if you set it to swich at a higher or lower vacuum, other than the 5-6 range called for in the manual? Also typically where are you setting the ignition plate. Mine is at the 5.5 mark, counting the first hash mark as one, and rotating the plate to the right. Look forward to hearing from you, Chris | ||
| Aaron |
No, I've never fiddled with it. I wouldn't use the ignition plate position as a point of comparison between two bikes. Too much tolerance stackup, the correct timing could be in quite a bit different place. | ||
| Gcpoland |
As a reminder: Sometimes it is worthwhile to check the timming marks on the flywheel. Using an indicator on the front cylinder bring it up to TDC and check the mark location in the timing hole. You might be suprised. I do it also for the rear, and mark the wheel. Sometimes it is worth it, sometimes not. Gary | ||
| Chrism |
Thanks, Aaron and Gary. Itried the clear plug bit but couldn't get the timing light in there close enough to see the marks go by. Thought about using the marking paint like the stuff they use at junk yards to mark parts. Aaron, if you're bored to tears one day and have the time, I'd be curious to see if changing the VOES switch point does anything. Chris | ||
| Mike_E |
I have a question on batteries. What should a normal battery life be? I just had the battey on my 00 X1 die while I was riding it. When I was leaving work to ride home yesterday it started really hard and then on the way home at a stop sign the engine just died. I pushed the bike to the sid eof the road and tried to restart, nothing. Since I had just got the bike out for the summer (live in MN) I checked to make sure that the cables were still attached. everything looked good. Tried to restart and got the starter to turn but that was it. Figured on dead battery. I have two questions: I replaced the stock battery with one that fits a blast (dealer out of X1 batteries). I figure since this battery is the replacement for the S1 that I will not have a problem with it, it is a little smaller so I will put a block in the holder to take up the extra space, but will I have any trouble with the battery being smaller. I am going to check the ground on the regulator and the alternator since the bike was running, so I am not sure why the alternator did not provide enough juice to keep the bike running. Anyone have any thoughts. I added a powercommder this winter so I will check the connects to make sure that there is not a short somewhere. A little more info: the front exhaust mount was changed in 2000 so I would think that if that was not grounded right I would have had a problem last year with it. I had the battery on a battery tender all winter in the house, just like last winter. A little confused Mike E 00 Mill X1 | ||
| Rempss |
You got the starter to turn, what makes you think dead battery? I'd lean toward the alternator if it died while riding, but that would mean the battery would be drained from powering off of it until all power was lost and not likley be able to crank the starter at all. Check the main ground under the left side of the seat on the frame. One of my ground wires broke and I could turn the starter, but nothing else worked right. Several grounds terminate at that point. My starter would crank, but none of the nstruments would operate while the ignition was in the run postion, but all operated correctly in the park position. Keep us posted. Jeff | ||
| Mike_E |
Jeff, one thing I forgot to mention was that the odometer was not working after it died and the head light was dim, the check engine light worked though. Signs to me that the higher voltage stuff was not getting enough juice-points to battery. I did move the tank to install the powercommander so I will check that ground. I looked it from below and it looked fine, but I will remove the tank and look it again. The search will continue. Mike | ||
| Rempss |
Mike, Sounds to me like a ground wire  . Look there first, I think you might be surprised, they are in a bad location if the connector end is pointed any direction but down. Seat hits it all the time. The grounds have a strain relief cover on them, mine was broken in the covering. Jeff | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey All, I'm trying to set the static timing on a 2001 X1. Looks pretty simple, except I don't have the Breakout box. Is it possible to do without the breakout box? (ie directly connecting the DVOM to the gren/white and black wires? Thanks Matt | ||
| Blake |
You mean the cam position sensor right? | ||
| Mbsween |
Blake, Yes, the cam position sensor. I've tried directly connecting the DVOM to pins 3 (pos) and 8 (neg) on the grey connector at the ECM. I don't see any voltage tho (rotating the tire through a couple revolutions). I've also tried pins 3 and 7 (7 is black/white). I tested the DVOM on the battery to make sure it works. No idea what I'm doing wrong. Thanks Matt | ||
| Seatonii |
Matt, Do you have the ignition on, the run switch set to run and the kick stand up? Kick stand up because you have it in gear. If you don't then the ECM will not send any power to the cam sensor because it will not let the engine run. DWIGHT | ||
| Mbsween |
Dwight, Thanks for the reply, Yes, I have the key on, stand up, and switch set to run. The ecm goes through the normal boot procedure then I unhook the grey connector and test for the voltage. The red check engine light is on after I diconnect the grey connector An interesting point in you note is that the Cam sensor gets power from the ECM. I'm guessing that disconnecting the grey connector from the ECM will prevent the cam sensor from getting voltage meaning I need the breakout box to do this test, or is the power delivered via the black connector? If thats true that explains why I never see voltage at the cam sensor. Another idea, after finding TDC, could I shift back to neutral (don't need to turn the wheel anymore) and then leave the kickstand down (that would eliminate the kickstand switch as a possible problem) Thanks Matt | ||
| Rempss |
I have stuck a small thin piece of metal in the backside of the connector port I need to measure. A small paper clip "unfolded" should work. It seems, without the service manual in front of me, power and ground is supplied and recieved in several places on both black & grey connectors. Both need to remain plugged in while measuring voltages. Just make sure not the poke into the insulation on the wire while testing. Jeff | ||
| Mbsween |
Jeff & Dwight Thanks, thats the info I was missing. Anyone ever buy the breakout box? I wonder what they cost. thanks again guys Matt | ||
| Rempss |
I'm sure too much to buy one. I am disassembling my stock ECM and was thinking about making my own, but the small metal "stick" has always done the trick, no need to make my life more complex.  Jeff | ||
| Seatonii |
Matt and Jeff, I did the same thing Jeff suggested. I use a small piece of paper clip to back probe the connector when it is connected to the ECM. The ECM sends out of 5 volts reference to the cam sensor and then it gets a ground back through the ECM. I don't know on the break out box though. I work in the automotive industry and the only reason you need a break out box it because it makes it easier and faster to measure voltage in a LIVE circuit. DWIGHT P.S. Jeff do you have any pictures of your O2 sensor meter and all the other sensor reading devises. Also did you dyno the bike yet with the 1250 kit. | ||
| Thunder |
Blake ... Jeff here with the S3 ignition fuse problem. Last night I started the bike for warmup ( ignition fuse has never blown in neutral), when I put it in 1st and released the clutch the fuse blew? I could make this reoccur 4 out of 10 times. Are there any sensors that could be grounding out? I'm going to look things over tonight and then is headed for the Topeka. Anyone have an idea?? Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Sounds like the safety cutout circuitry is shorting. Try a continuity check between the positive feeds for the clutch switch (little two wire connector with wires exiting below the clutch handle assy) and the kickstand safety switch. If you cannot tell which is positive, test both leads. If both have continuity to ground, you have a short. If only one does, you don't. If you have a short, that is probably causing your problem. Try tracing the wires to their ends with help from the circuit diagram and find where the short is happening. Let us know what you find. Blake | ||
| Thunder |
I did some further troubleshooting Friday night. I checked the areas around the clutch lever and kick stand ckt., everything was good. I then removed the seat and sat down on the bike while running and in neutral, jumped down to load the suspension and frame.. fuse blew!! It turned out to be the fuel pump wire harness from the bottom of the fuel cell shorting on the back rocker box cover. Easy fix!! Jeff | ||
| Mbsween |
Okay Gang, Thought I had it fixed, but it was short lived. A little history. 2001 X1, Race ECm , K&N filter, gutted airbox, WB pipe w/12 discs. Bike has developed a surging problem, mostly at constant throttle near the 3.5/4 K rpm range. Usually the bike is fine with WOT or a heavy hand. I can still ride, but I'm lucky if I can maintain a 30MPH variance. 1st dealer said nothing wrong, second dealer (Jamestown HD in Jamestown NY) was very accomodating, worked on the bike while I was there, and thought they had it fixed. They reset static timing,zero-ed the TPS, checked out the trouble codes from the ecm, and checked wiring. (the trouble codes from the ecm said bad bank angle sensor, but then he found a loose wire and the sensor tested okay). They also did a dyno pull, 85.4HP/75.3 Ft-lb. You can see it at http://www.mbsween.com/buell/dynorun2.html (I'll figure out how to post them someday) It rode perfect for about 110- 120 miles. The riding was all highway 75-100mph. I stopped once to get gas to see how it was doing (54 mpg). Then a couple of misses and some surging. It was tolerable, but once I got off the highway , it got much worse. Pulled the plugs and , you guessed it, fouled again. So I'm wondering if I just need a hotter plug (6R12)? There's a mention on the X1 files of FI race kitted bikes fouling plugs (its by the torquemaster picture). Anyone else live through this kind of problem? Oh yeah, I do ride a lot in colder weather (30 - 50 degrees). Thanks Matt | ||
| Buelliedan |
Matt, 12 disks on a WB pipe is really too few. It causes the bike to run really rich especially if you have a Race ECM which you do. I suggest you do one of these: 1. Add 4-5 more dicks 2. Drill 2, 1/2 inch holes in the end cap 3. Get the Snuf'r cap which allows you to "open it up" Also try running some NGK DPR8EA9 plugs which are just a bit hotter than the 10R12s or NGK 9's. | ||
| Road_Thing |
Oh, Dan, what an unfortunate typo!!  | ||
| Caboose |
Oh my!  | ||
| Blake |
Dan, Can you post a shot of your muffler on the NC-17 page?  | ||
| Sarodude |
Cheese 'n Rice! (and whatever ELSE you can stuff in there) -Saro |
