| Author | Message | ||
     Petey |
Thanks for the advice guys, I'll definitely be getting the race ecm, probably in another week or two, and I will check for the manifold leakage blake described. I think the updated "Y" bracket is already installed saw the bulletin and mine and the one in the tsb look very similar, as does the Z bracket, the only part I'm debating is whether or not to have the wileyco repaired(it's mounting flange to the Y bracket is cracked at the weld to the slip onpipe) or to just get the complete race kit, I'd like to save a couple of bucks and get re-welded at work, but I don't know how it will hold up, any suggestions? | ||
| Al_Lighton |
99 X1's and S3's didn't get the SRP, no shock recalls whatsoever on them. They would replace a leaker for the $100 charge, though. 2000 and up X1's and S3's did get recalled. Rumor has it that the change in flywheel weight in 2000 is the kicker, but I've not seen that published officially. And all the leaky Showas that replaced the recalled open spring WP shocks get replaced for free if it leaks within 1 year of the replacement, $100 otherwise. And all M2's originally equipped with Showas were recalled. I think (pretty sure though) Al | ||
| Blake |
Al: Per Service Bulletin B-035A...
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| Blake |
And I think that the following is also still in force: Recall shocks not yet replaced will be replaced with '01 shocks free of charge. If you had a Showa shock installed under recall and it leaks within one year of that time, the goodwill policy is that the fee is waived and you will also get an 01' shock Free of charge. If the recall shock is more than one year old, you will be charged the $100 for the '01 shock kit. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Blake, Well, yea, IF a 99 S3 needs a new shock, it will get the newer shorter recall shock, installed per that service bulletin, because the old shock isn't made anymore. But a sevice bulletin isn't a recall, and if there isn't a need to replace the shock due to failure, us 99 S3/X1 owners don't get the new one for free under recall like the 2000+ owners do. I've received other recall notices on my 99 S3 (fuel filter only, the others were perfromed prior to buying it new). So if there had been a shock recall on the 99S3, I think I would have received the notice. I spoke to John in CS at length about the whole program when I was getting my newer Showa to replace my leaky showa that replaced my open spring WP on my S1W. He said I had it right as I wrote it in my posting above. Al | ||
| Blake |
Al: Thanks for that clarification. One other confusing point... The '99 M2 shocks were recalled. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Yea, what's with that? The M2 engine had the same flywheel as the S3/X1 in 99, and the shock sure appears to be physically the same other than adjustability and remote reservior. But the M2 got recalled, and the S3/X1 didn't. This one has baffled me since the recall. Al | ||
| Fresh |
Hi all, I'm new to this board, good stuff, took me ages to read through all of it. One question for now: If i get lucky i will buy a second hand Buell S1 Lightning (not the white lightning) Is an asking price of US$ 6500 ok for an almost stock Buell S1L build 12-1998, 10.000 km Bike seems in good condition, original parts available, recalls done and maintained at good dealer in germany. Last checkup done 12-2001. Owner is not a hardcore driver and not a technical person either, he just enjoys cruising. Reason for sale is purchase of his new Harley. I thought i'd ask you guys to get an indication, stealer prices in Europe are not reasonable anymore, what's wrong with these guys ? Looking forward to your input. Fresh | ||
| Blake |
Fresh: That sounds like a fair deal to me. Will he let you take it for a test ride? Over here in the new world you might find one for less, but with such meager use (only 10.000 Km), US$6500 in Germany sounds pretty darn good. | ||
| Fresh |
Blake, Thx for reply. Yes i will drive it coming Saturday, unless guy who's before me can cough up the cash. Will get confirmation on thursday, damn i hate to wait, like this baby. Any tips for when i drive it ? I am preparing a check list but am pretty sure this bike is ok. If this one wont pull through i will buy a 98 S1WL (also black) from a dealer. But the asking around 9000 US$, and i think its too much. But maybe i get greedy and buy it anyway. I will not trade in my other bike, so i might get some off the price. Thx, Fresh | ||
| Blake |
Front brake is STRONG, engine is STRONG. If you are used to higher revving motorcycles the torque can surprise you. Be careful. Look for VERY smooth riding once revs climb above 2500. Expect lots of quaking attitude at idle. Suspension setup is important in order to get teh most out of your test ride. Front and rear sag should be around 34mm with you sitting on the bike. You shouldn't hit the limiter before 70 mph in second gear, unless the bike has been modified with different sprockets/gearing. Once it's good and warm and you have an open road ahead, wring it out at WOT in 2nd gear until you hit the rev limiter. This will give you a good idea of its state of tune and will ensure that it is strong and reliable. IMPORTANT!!! Lean WAY forward when you do this!  When you finish the ride, imediately check for any oil leaks. When in neutral, unloaded, and suported by its sidestand, the bike's rear suspension should be fully unloaded, and the drive belt should have around 4 cm of slack. If not, the belt is too tight and the rear axle will need to be adjusted forward appropriately. | ||
| Fresh |
Blake, Picked up my new baby today, 12-1998 S1L, 10.300 km US sprockets, stock exhaust and non stock airbox/filter plain HD type, breadbox removed. Pure pleasure to ride this beast, although its more or less stock i was very impressed once you open the throttle fast above 3000 rpm, this thing keeps going. No wheelies yet, like to keep it quiet for a while untill i've opened it up to check some things out: 1. primary tensioner model old or new ??? like to replace for new model asap before shit hits the fan (too many bad stories about this tensioner on this board) 2. fresh tranny oil and engine oil/filter, set clock at ZERO for myself, like a fresh start. 3. check all electrical connections and wiring harnass for damages. (for now no electrical problems, this is just preventive action) 4. run cylinder compression tests (again to check for myself), no leaks or oil visible whatsoever on cylinder or rockerboxes so no reason to open this up (although i would love to and have a look inside) 5. get new shifting arrangement, the stock one sucks, change stock footpegs, rubber turns around shaft of peg. 6. install fender eliminator with turn signals. (right now my only turn signals are Kellermann indicators on the handle bar, no indicators at the rear and i dont like that) 7. adjust rear brake, like a bit more power from this one, a bit disappointing now, although pads are not worn. is this normal ?? on my other bikes i was always able to block rear when required. 8. check with my own eyes tension in belt drive, looks ok, not tight as far as i can feel. 9. adjust suspension, i am lighter in weight than previous owner 73 kgs so it feels a bit stiff, i think it can be better, any 73 kg Buellers pls. give me your preferred settings so i have a good start with this. 10. install oil cooler with thermostat and oil temp. meter (still looking for for suitable sensor/ gauge assy. (analog output) anyone suggestions ?? I am really a bit paranoia about not knowing my oil temperature. ( bad experience from the past with old enduro bike) 11. Have a dyno run(s) to check power and torque band and when required adjust carb. After this i start thinking about another exhaust and aircharger. Any other stuff i should check ??? pls. advise Regarding shifting gear: i am not used to HD or Buell so bear with me on this one, is it ok if when you shift gears you really feel it click/clunk into the next gear, from neutral to first i give short throttle and it falls into first with a normal clunk sound, this sound however appears with every gearchange, just a solid clunk (no gear grinding), much heavier than i am used to with jap bikes. Is this normal with Buell trannies ??? pls. confirm this is the only thing that worries me for now. I did not notice any false neutrals yet. Shifting is solid. Also is there a correct way to shift gear on a Buell, if there is a correct way at all. I keep the revs above 4500 to keep above 3500 with next gear. As i mentioned before i like to keep it easy untill i know the internals of the bike better. When shifting back, i give a bit of intermediate throttle is this ok too or should i stop this habit ??? pls. advise how you guys do it so i can try diff. ways in a sensible way. Also, since i am in europe and need to buy some imperial size tools, can someone give me a list of the inch tools i will require like sockets and wrenches for the basic maintenance, oil change, opening covers etc. Phewww, it was a long story but i hope i get some replies with answers. Thx. in advance. Regards, Fresh | ||
| Blake |
Fresh: You seem to be well on your way to mastering the Buell experience. By your description your shifting is absolutely normal for a Buell S1. When I hop onto any other modern sportbike, I always feel like the darn things aren't shifting, I can't feel them "clunk" into gear like my Buell.  Your technique sounds quite good as well. NO need to rev to 4500 before upshifting though. She should pull smoothly from 2500. If I'm taking it easy on my '97 M2, I'll be into 5th gear by 55 mph. Tools... Off the top of my head... You will need a #set of Torx drivers including a #27, a set of SAE hex keys (preferably with one end in the form of a handy ball joint for off angle work), a set of 3/8" drive sockets, a set of spanners (3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" open end wrenches). Oh, and don't forget the SAE crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) | ||
| Rall |
Fresh Get a service manual. A very wise investment. And enjoy your Buell experence. Mark | ||
| Fresh |
Blake/Rall, Thx. about easing my mind on the gearshifting and tool info. I got the 1997 manual from: http://www.igd.fhg.de/~nbraun/Buell_Index.html look for "manual" in index for download. Its 17.5 Mb big so it might take a while. Upon extraction you get a directory with acrobat files. The manual is in englisch. Regards, Fresh | ||
| Mapes |
Hello. I have been lurking on this site for a year or so, trying to decide if motorcycling is for me. I took the MSF class 2 years ago, but have done little riding. I have signed up for a refresher class in 2 weeks and am hoping to purchase a bike soon after. I am interested in the Blast, but am unsure whether to buy new or used. Does anyone know where I can find out what modifications have been made between 2000 and 2001 and 2001 and 2002? Thanks in advance for any information. | ||
| Blake |
Mapes: Go for it! It's only money and a little space in the garage. No real modifications other than new color options. The guys on the Blast Page in the Knowledge Vault will be happy to offer you advice. The nice thing about a new P3 is the standing offer HD/Buell have extended to give you full purchase price on any trade-in towards a new Buell or HD. The trade must take place within one year of your P3 purchase. The good thing about buying used is that you can save around a thousand dollars and still have a bike that's hardly broken-in. Try to take the Rider's Edge class at you local HD/Buell dealership. It's basically the same as the MSF course, but you'll get to take it on a Buell Blast P3. Maybe that will help you decide. Whatever you decide, good luck! You are certainly going about the process of becoming "Moto-Mapes, terror on two wheels" the right way (MSF class first) . Keep on with the instruction on up through a good track school. Blake | ||
| Mapes |
Blake: Thanks for the information and the encouragement! I have been reading lots of good information on this site about the Blast and I really think it may be the best bike for me. I ran into someone on the way back from Bike Week today (I only live an hour from Daytona.) who was riding a 2000 Blast and looking to upgrade. She gave me a good price on taking hers off of her hands. Looks like I'll be making a decision after the MSF in 2 weeks. Thanks again. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
All I can say is that ANY Buell is better than no Buell. Get the Blast then read the 44 Magnum postings, real interesting reading over there. | ||
| Dust_Storm |
Don't know if this is were this is supposed to go, so Blake, if you see it running ramapant, please place it in the correct area, Thanks! -=-_-=-] FOR SALE = 2001 M2 Cyclone (yellow) [-=-_-=- I was riding around town today and saw a 2001 Buell M2 Cyclone at the local Kawak dealer, so me being curious, went and checked it out... Milage: 4242 Warrenty: Unknown, need to contact the dealer on this Shape / Condition: Very good condition, it's been babied by someone... Aftermarket: Definately a larger seat. don't know about much else, the dealer said it was a trade in for a new Kawasaki 2up Cruiser. I test drove it, and it runs great (almost made me think about trading in my Blast for it, but no way, I love my thumper...) The dealer is asking for $7,800, but is willing to accept any "reasonable offer", as they don't know much about the Buells. On a side note, they've been extremely helpful with my Blast. So, if anyone is interested or has any questions, please feel free to contact: Cathy Grandprix Kawasaki El Paso Tx, 79925 Phn: (915)-593-1024 -=]DS[=- (just couldn't let it sit long without a good home.... ) | ||
| Westy01 |
Can't decide! I am looking at two bikes, each of which has its good and bad points. I could use some advice - 2000 M2 Completely stock, 3800 miles 2 years left on warranty blue (not the color I want) 1997 S1 forcewinder intake v & h exhaust w/ factory jet kit new battery w/ upgrade kit 2000 brake rotor upgrade corbin seat I will primarily be using the bike for daily commuting and then some playing on the weekends. I would like to ride around with the wife every once in a while too. I currently have a 2001 883c which I am going to sell - Thanks for any advice - Matt Oakland | ||
| Westy01 |
Forgot to mention - the s1 only has 8800 miles | ||
| Jasonl |
Does the S1 have the twin tail kit for your wife to ride on as well? | ||
| Westy01 |
It doesn't appear to - is that an expensive/pain in the ass addition? | ||
| Peter |
I will primarily be using the bike for daily commuting and then some playing on the weekends. I would like to ride around with the wife every once in a while too. Sounds like you need an all-rounder. I'd be buying the M2. PPiA | ||
| Archer |
FI ANYONE IS IN THE MARKET FOR A TUBE FRAME BIKE LET ME KNOW. I'M IN STAFFORD , TX AND WE ARE DEALING ON THE TUBE FRAMES. GET MY INFO FROM MY PROFILE ROSS | ||
| Blake |
Ross: Your web page in your profile no workee. | ||
| Oldman |
westy, got the m2 with upgraded seat that i got at a swap meet and even with the buell saddlebags that attache over the seat the old lady doesn't mind riding on the back if she doesn't fill like riding her trike. by myself it's even better. | ||
| Jasonl |
Westy01 - The twin tail option is pretty rare, I think, on S1's. It's just a seat for two. Timmy2shoes has a gorgeous S1WL with the twin tail for sale. That way you can take a look and see what you think. | ||
| Westy01 |
Thanks to everyone for the earlier advice. I have solely been looking at M2's since and am close to making a decision. Here's my latest issue: I have my eyes on a 1997 M2 with just shy of 10k on the odometer. Well taken care of, v&h pipe, carbon ham can a/c, billet linkage. It is a trade in at a HD dealership. They are tuning it up and asking $6500. Other is a 1999 M2 completely stock with 5k miles on it. $5,500. Minus the modifications of the 1997, are there any glaring improvements between the 1999 and the 1997? Finally, the 1999 is yellow (not exactly my preferred color) while the 1997 is black. What is a ballpark figure for painting an M2? Thanks as always for the advice, Matt 2001 883c 1997? 1999? M2 |
