| Author | Message | ||
     Rempss |
It's been a $50 item around here. I believe it should take about 20-30 minutes to do it. I get this from following the steps in the service manual, you have all the needed tools except the Scanalyzer. Still waitig for "Anonymous R" to let me in on his 2 minute secret? Jeff By the way, worth it at $75, needs to be done only each time you replace the ECM, or disturb the TPS position. Probably once in a biketime.  | ||
| Anon_R |
How to zero the TPS in two minutes or less. (not counting warm up time) 1. Connect scan tool 2. select #3 Data monitor 3. scroll down to TP degrees 4. back off idle adjuster until TP degrees reading stops decreasing 5. turn idle adjuster one more full turn out 6. Snap throttle closed to seat the throttle plate 7. Press mode on the scan tool and select option #7 Calibrations 8. Select #2 TPS zero function 9. Press enter, then option #3 on the scan tool 10. Scoll down to TP degrees, adjust idle speed screw until TP degrees read 5.8 degrees 11. press start button and start bike. Warm up to 280 degrees engine temp. 12. adjust idle speed to 1050 RPM. NO MORE and NO LESS. Please post the name of the dealer that wants 1.5 hours for doing this so people know who to stay away from. R  | ||
| Court |
Thank you Sir Carrollton. Information. . . honest information. . . be powerful stuff. Blake: be sure to get this porcedure in the right place in the knowledge vault. Me guesses it is borne of plenty of experience. Court | ||
| José_Quiñones |
R What about when it's cold (below 35), can I set the idle higher so it will start when cold then lower it when it warms up? | ||
| Sarodude |
Three cheers for Anon_R... -Saro | ||
| Rempss |
Thank You "R". I can now stop arguing the service manual way, I did not realize the Scanalyzer could see a "moving" voltage until now. Been trying to drag out that description for months now!!! Jeff | ||
| Blake |
Court: Done! It now has it's very own subtopic in the Carb/DDFI topic. To clarify... I spoke to a reputable Buell service person; he agreed that with warm up and preparation a service manager should be happy to cover the TPS zeroing effort for 0.5 hour (30 minutes) charged labor. I also learned that for DDFI Buells with poor engine performance problems, he has found that the vast majority of the problems he sees can be resolved in short order by properly zeroing the TPS and verifying/setting the cam position sensor timing. How do you verify/set cam position sensor timing? 1. Remove sensor cover (drill out two rivets). 2. Attach voltmeter to sensor leads 3. Remove spark plugs 4. Support rear of bike to allow rear wheel to turn freely. 5. Put transmission into 5th gear 6. Turn Ignition on. 7. While closely observing the voltmeter, slowly/manually rotate the rear wheel in the forward direction so as to turn the engine in its normal sense. 8. Stop when the voltmeter initially shows a change from zero to 5 volts. 9. Check the cam position sensor. It should be dead centered with the timing mark. If not, adjust so that it is and recheck. Any sensor timing deviation from dead center will adversely effect performance. Even as little as a single degree off of center will hurt DDFI performance. Zat make sense? | ||
| Skulley |
Ok now, followed the steps above and just how do you attach a volt meter to the sensor leads? Manual indicates a box, using 3,8. I don't have that box. | ||
| Blake |
Unplug the connector and stick your voltmeter probes into the applicable (3 and 8) pins/slots? You should be able to follow the wires (use ohmeter if necessary to avoid unwrapping the wire harness). Check your wiring diagram too, that may help. Sorry I'm not more help. | ||
| Seeeu911 |
 Does anyone know where to get specs on the electrical output ( Alternator, regulator etc) in consideration of adding another load to the electrical system ? | ||
| Henrik |
Seeeu911: your service manual ('cause you did buy one - right? ) is your best source of information. Keep in mind that the electrical output mentioned is at a certain RPM range - which may higher than your normal cruising RPM. Someone, more electrically savvy than I, suggested using an Amp meter connected to the battery with the bike running and all accessories on (lights etc.). That should give you an idea of how the bike handles the extra draw. Keep us posted on your findings. Henrik | ||
| Seeeu911 |
yea, I do have a greasy dog eared well thumbed manual.  I'm considering HID light and wondering about exceding the output and such.. I'll keep yous posted. | ||
| Sandmanx1 |
hi all i got a problem for a mechanic last night my bike started running really rough and i was getting very little power i dont think the front cylinder is firing you could touch the front pipe and it was cold after i limped it home about 5 miles i cant find any leaks or anything it also backfired a few times i dont know if a fouled plug could cause this or not if anybody has thoughts i would be greatfull | ||
| Henrik |
Sandman: a quick test - if you can get the bike started again, pull the spark plug boot off the front plug. If that doesn't change how the bike runs, then yes, it's only running on one cylinder. If that's the case, pull the plug. If it's wet and smell like gas, the plug is not firing. Possibilities: fouled/damaged plug, bad spark plug wire. Henrik | ||
| Steveb |
Sandman, Since it wasn't clear in Henrik's post above, and I don't know your experience, I recommend you pull off the front plug wire from the spark plug before you start the engine. As you pull the plug wire off a running engine, the spark will try to find a path to ground. That path might be through your body, and it might be unpleasant. On some ignitions, it will flat knock your dirk in the dirt. Another good practice is to plug the removed wire onto a spare plug and lay it against the head before start-up. That provides a spark path so the coil won't try to spark internally, causing internal coil insulation deterioration. Good luck on a quick, inexpensive repair. Steve B | ||
| Sandmanx1 |
thanks henrik and steve it was just the plug i did what you said and there was no change so i switched the plugs around and the problem was reversed so it must be a bad plug. hey im wantng to go to the best plugs and wires anyway any sugestions? i saw some plugs in a magizine that had a kind of star shape at the fire end that i think sparked at each tip at the same time. lost the magizine tho and cant remember who makes them was woundering if they are any good. hope this is the right place for this message. | ||
| Henrik |
Sandman: look at the top of the this page. You'll see both NGK and HD part #'s. You really can't make noticable additional power with any of the "wonder plugs" when compared with proper functioning standard plugs. Save your $$. Some unobtainium plugs are felt to last longer than standard plugs though. Henrik | ||
| Jerome |
Does anyone know how the eight advance curves from the Compu-fire HDE-6 ignition module compare with the stock advance curve ? Is there one among the eight which is similar to stock or are they all different ? I've not found info about that in the archive but I may have missed it. Aaron, did you ever have a chance to compare the Compu-fire to stock, reaching the same usual conclusion that you reach on this matter, i.e. that there's no significant improvement on stock ignition ? | ||
| Aaron |
No, I've never tested that ignition. It's my general impression though, playing with other adjustable ignitions, that the stock curve is pretty much right for a stockish motor. Hard to improve on it. | ||
| Spidey |
I've got a 99 S3 that is knocking (I hope that's the right word to use) quite badly when I take off from a dead stop and also when I crank the throttle while cruising. It's only while accelerating and seems to run fine while cruising at a constant speed. The problem gets worse as the engine gets hotter. Seems to run great while just cruising though. I just switched from HD-6R12 to NGK-DPR9EA9 spark plugs (dealer couldn't get 10r12's), and it seems worse although the 3000 rpm surging seems to have disappeared. Could this be a timing issue or TPS maybe? Any opinions appreciated. thx  | ||
| Blake |
Spidey: Sounds like the classic symptoms of an intake leak. Warm up your engine, set it at a fast idle (2000 rpm), spay contact cleaner or WD-40 or even a fine mist of water all around the three intake manifold sealing ports (one at carb outlet and at each cylinder head). If the engine speeds drops noticeably, you have just confirmed a leaking seal. Replace with a new set of seals and you should be set. | ||
| Ken01mp |
knocking under load and worse with temp? sounds like detonation to me. | ||
| Ccryder |
Spidey: Blake may have a point but, considering you have a 99' S3 there are other more obvious places that need investigation. First we need a few bits of info: 1: What mods have been performed? 2: Has the ECM been updated with the newer mapping? 3: What brand and octane gas are you using? 4: How many miles on your S3? Just to not keep you in suspense I'll give you part of my history with 99' fuelies. A: At a minimum, bone stock, you need to have the newer ECM mapping. B: I only run Amoco oops, BP gold gas, and good gas will make a big difference. C: If you have any mods done, exhaust, airbox you need the Buell Race ECM. Even if you don't have any mod's the only way I could get my 99' S3T to stop knocking was the Race ECM. D: If you are stock there is a completely different motorcycle waiting right there between your legs. Just adding the Race ECM, a slip-on of your choice and a K&N filter will make you wonder why you ever waited sooooo long. You can save $500-$700 over the Buell race kit and have 95% of the HP/ Torque. Sorry I forgot to answer 2 of your questions. It is not a TPS issue. COuld be timing but not likely. Fuelie's ECM controls the timing curve and the fuel curve. If static timing is set to factory specs. then it's the ECM's job to do the rest. Quickest way to baaaad performance, on a fuelie, is to mess with the static timing. Just my $0.02 and I'm stick'n to it ;+). Drop a line if I can help you or you need some more advice. Later Neil S. | ||
| Spidey |
Thanks for the info guys. It appears I've got an intake leak on the front cylinder. I also changed my plugs back to the 6R12s today and it was noticeibly better. I'll see if I can get my dealer (HD only) to bring me in some 10R12's. The only mod I've done is to re-route the blow by to a breather under the bike...other than that she's stock. The race kit is worth about $2G's here in Canada...is it worth just going with the race ECM and letting the other mod's (headers, breather and muffler) wait for a bit? thx, Spidey | ||
| Ymmot |
quick question related to Spidey's comment on HD dealer and 10R12's. i picked up some 10R12A's at the local HD dealer, after they said 10R12's and -12A's are the same. i know it's probably pretty esoteric, but does anyone know if they are? (i'm interested because my HD dealer, a very good one that i've used the last 20 years, is only 20-ish miles from my house - my Buell dealer is 82mi...) for reference: the 10R12A's are the plug used in the VRod... TIA, tommy | ||
| Blake |
Ymot: Different (larger) socket size maybe? Just guessing. Spidey: Glad you were able to diagnose the leak. Yes, the race ECM, even for a stock muffler will work wonders on your midrange. A K&N filter will help some too. | ||
| Kahuna |
Your help is needed I have an X1M with about 250mi on it, and the following has happened to me twice. I'm on the highway travelling say 55 - 60mph and the bike would suddenly start to cough (3 - 4 times), the engine light comes on, then everything is fine again and the light eventually turns off? Many thanks! | ||
| Dirtsquirt |
Ymmot I came across the same problem. H-D dealer 55 miles, H-D/Blast dealer 120 miles. I tried 10R12A plug, checked after a few miles and center electrode was very white, indicating a much hotter plug. Went back to 10R12 and now its a light chocolate brown. I stopped at the Amarillo, Tx. H-D/Buell dealer, he looked it up and said it was a hotter plug. Pistons are expensive.  Dick | ||
| Aaron |
10R12 = 10R12A, they're identical. Part number was changed because old number (27661-00Y) was a Buell specific number and HD-only dealers couldn't order them. HD-only dealers developed a need for them when the V-Rod came out. | ||
| Blake |
If it wasn't clear before, it is now. Aaron simply KNOWS TOO MUCH!!!  |
