| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
casualties of the brake rotor bolt war:  Henrik | ||
| Vr1203 |
Tim, I think the Black Lightning Ferodo disc is great. There has been much written about the benefits of cast iron rotors. Until carbon came along cast was it. Then the manufacturers had to have NO RUST! And stainless steel came along. But really sucks as a brake disc.I'll get bashed for this!!!! | ||
| Vr1203 |
Tim, Heres a shot of my set up. "/image{oooh}" | ||
| Blake |
Geez VR, the \image{} tag is sure kickin' your ass today! LOL. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
Will I cause handling problems by going from a 170 to a 180 size tire on the rear of my 98 S1. Someone must know. | ||
| Racinswifty |
NO | ||
| Reepicheep |
My Cyclone seems to have come with the factory with a 180 rear. No big deal, just a little less fender clearence. When I blew out the 180 and replaced it with the proper 170, handling improved, but that was more then likely a result of going from a flat spotted old cracked tire then the size change. Bill | ||
| Vr1203 |
 | ||
| Tim |
Vr1203, Thanks for the info. | ||
| Rocketman |
Henrik : I see from that pic that the long Allen Key isn't broken and yet the short one is. If you have Mac or Snap-On Allen key sockets you can remove the Allen key part by pushing out the roll pin that holds it to the socket body. You might want to do this to cut down on tool costs because what you do is place a cheaper Allen key in the 'empty' socket then cut it down to a minimum length, preferably with a grinder, just enough so as the socket body clears the head of the Allen stud you're trying to remove. Assuming you've 'smacked' the Allen stud as hard as you can there's every chance the cheaper Allen key will remove the most stubborn of Allen studs because there is more useable torque applied to the shorter Allen key. Of course, if you were wanting to remove Allen studs, like the ones holding the rotors, on a frequent basis, it would be prudent to buy a high quality Allen socket just for that purpose, and shorten it accordingly, rather than getting caught out by the cheap tools, but the advantage of this little trick is that you can 'afford' several attempts with one Allen key even if it becomes damaged. Just keep cutting and using a section off the cheap Allen key until the tight little burger of a stud moves. When all's done, you can convert back to your quality Allen key as it's still in perfect condition ready for all the other applications you'd normally use it for. Thanks for reminding me how I got mine undone. Shame for you I didn't remember this little trick sooner, but perhaps someone else will benefit, and you might have better luck yourself if you ever want to try playing with your rotors again, especially in public  Rocket in England | ||
| Ara |
Icepick: I've had positively excellent results with a Pirelli tire that's been around for quite a while, the Pirelli Dragon MTR04 and MTR03 combination. I've never gotten more than 5,000 miles out of any rear tire on any bike I've ever owned, but I've still got some life left in my current rear tire at over 7,000 miles. The traction is excellent and predictable and the life expectancy is exceptional. Russ | ||
| Blake |
I've heard the same thing from MikeP. I may have to try the Dragons. | ||
| Icepick |
Russ/Blake: Thanks for the tip - I did some checking around online and it seems that these are phased out - couldn't find any in the X1's size...other suggestions for good tires with some life-span? Are the Dragon GTS similar? Thanks again! Icepick. | ||
| Ara |
Icepick: Even if the manufacturer has phased them out, there are probably thousands still in the distribution chain. Get your dealer to search for you. You could probably work a discount on a discontinued tire and get the last of the best. Also, did you check www.pirellimoto.com? Less than two months ago they still had 'em. Russ | ||
| Blake |
Dunlop has a replacement/upgrade for the D205. I'll probably try the D220's next time I'm up for a cross country tour. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Blake, What's the scoop on the 220's? Are they dumping the 205's and replacing them with the 220's? Are they suppose to be better tread wear than the 205's? I checked out Dunlop's site but couldn't find info on the 220's. I was leaning toward the BT010's for my M2 but I'm open to alternatives. Brad | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Ooops! Just needed to dig a bit deeper. They don't have the info in the tire section yet, just the New for 2002 section. Link to Dunlop | ||
| Blake |
Dunlop claims the 220's will be better. The 205's will not be produced any longer. Stock supplies may take years to disappear though. should make for some really good deals. | ||
| Icepick |
Russ: Couldn't find anything on Pirellimoto.com - but I'll do some calling around - I agree there should be some still in the system. Who did you buy your last set from? Blake - good tip on the 220's - but I think I may be able to get a better price on the Pirelli's though as they are discontinued, again I'll have to check... As always guys, thanks in advance. Icepick. | ||
| Ara |
Icepick, I couldn't get into Pirelli's web site yesterday either from home or work. They must have been having a bad day over there. I got my last set from my hometown big 4 Japanese dealership that I occasionally do some work for. No help to you, sorry. Russ | ||
| Mikej |
Checked at the shop last night on the 220's. Counter guy said they already sold a pair of Dunlop 220's to a local guy on a Buell, and said he liked them so far (I didn't know they were available yet, but didn't push the issue). Price for the 220 rear was the same as the price for a 205 rear at about $175 full retail (probably do way better shopping around, don't remember what I paid for my last D205). Probably on our April ride the guy with the 220's on his Buell will show up and I'll be able to get a ride report from him on the tires. I'm thinking real hard about trying Bridgestones though. Might trim down the M2 when I get it back and run something sticky on it. | ||
| Loki |
Stopped by a shop the other day to check prices. The Metz Sportec M1s were over $350 without mount and balance. Checked Discount Motorcycle Tires. $203 to my doorstep. | ||
| Buellish |
Jmartz,stainless not availible? Try Threads For The South, in the industrial park behind CocaCola on 41. Mike | ||
| Ara |
Icepick, www.pirellimoto.com is back up and the Dragon GTs (MTR03 & MTR04) are still there. I don't think I believe that they've been phased out yet, but I do remember being encouraged by a Pirelli rep to buy one of their newer (lower mileage) tire. Russ | ||
| Icepick |
 Thanks Russ - I went to the page and found the info on them. I'll get on the phone this week and see what I can find. I've never talked to a Buell guy who was so hot on a particular tire before so I'm definitely looking forward to these... Give me a few weeks and I'll let you know how I like them! Icepick. | ||
| Ara |
Glad to help out, Icepick. BTW, I grew up in Santa Ana, CA. Russ | ||
| Mbsween |
Hi, Anyone know what the correct tire pressure for the 2001 X1 rear is? The shop manual says 36, Dunlop's web site says 42. Haven't had a chance to check the dealer yet. BTW I have 5000 or so on the rear and its looking shot. is that pretty typical mileage for a 207? Thanks Matt 2001 X1 | ||
| Blake |
Matt: I think Buell's specified rear tire pressure range is between 34 and 38 psi depending on riding style and loading. Five thousand miles on a D207 is more than most achieve. I only get 5K miles out of a D205. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Well, haven't been around in forever, so I'm back to ask a question. Any tips or tricks to pulling/replacing the front wheel & tire on my '98 S1? I remember some issues a while back about spacers on the wrong side, fender clearance, etc. They say things are different on a Harley, well, things are different on a Buell for me, cause I'm not used to working on one BTW, I saw some posts about the Dunlop 205's. That is the reason I'm pulling the front wheel, to replace the old D204 with a D205 to match my back tire. I think supplies of the D205's are already dwindling. I looked around before Christmas, there were plenty of 'em on the web, bought one about a month ago, supplies were noticeably scarcer. Anyway, any suggestions on getting this bugger on & off would be appreciated. Mike | ||
| Jmartz |
Replacing the front tire is pretty straightforward. A 1998 S1 still has the mechanical speedometer drive so spacer confusion is less likely. The most difficult thing about tire replacement is not damaging the rim. Make sure you loosen the rotor or you WILL scratch the rim trying to remove the caliper, which by the way is the first thing that needs to come off. The Nissin caliper is a bit bulkier and requires more clearance. |
