| Author | Message | ||
     Steveshakeshaft |
I don't believe I've heard of anyone trying this but....... Is it possible to set the TPS on a DDFI Buell using a Multi-meter? Surely you are "only" looking to calibrate a reference voltage/current? Am I way off the mark here? Steve steve@ukbeg.com http://ukbeg.com/ | ||
| Ccryder |
Steve: The key element missing is the means to tell the ECM that the TPS/ throttle plate is at "X" voltage/ and closed. With the ECM interface, once you have the throttle plate closed, you "tell" the ECM this is the voltage to expect at "0" degree throttle opening. Sometime we will be able to get around this issues, but not yet. Neil S. | ||
| Blake |
If you happen to know what nominal TPS voltage was last loaded into the ECM, you could possibly adjust the TPS to an orientation producing that exact same voltage for the throttle closed position. I remember someone posting that idea here before. | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Ah, OK. Rather I thought it would be the other way round. Like the ECM would want "X" volts at closed position, so I thought you could close the throttle and adjust from your "Y" volts down or up on a adjustment device to give the expected value of "X". I suppose that would be just too simple to expect. Steve steve@ukbeg.com http://ukbeg.com/ | ||
| Ccryder |
It's the old chicken and the egg problem. Either way you would need the Dealer goodies first. How you say.... Got us by the short hairs!  Later Neil S. | ||
| Skulley |
anyone know the voltage output of a stock coil from and X1? How to test with volt meter? also what is the difference of a single fire and a dual fire coil? Is it that the single will fire each tower seprate, and dual fires both at the same time? Which is stock on the X1? Is the Screaming Eagle coil equal to stock for replacement? TIA | ||
| Blake |
Skulley: You got it! The stock ingintion system (not just coil) fires both plugs simultaneously. Since only one of the cylinders at a time can be on a compression stroke, the plug firing simultaneously in the other cylinder is sparking on the exhaust stroke. An aftermarket single fire system (module and coil) eliminates the extraneous exhaust stroke sparking. Zero benefit for a street bike, IMO. Peak voltage of the stock coil is somewhere around 20 KV. Not sure how you could measure it accurately. | ||
| Ara |
I was informed by Parts Desk personnel at Harley Davidson of Washington that the standard Buell/Sportster ignition coil is rated at 17K volts and that the Screaming Eagle unit is rated at 45K volts. Russ | ||
| Skulley |
Ok, Now for the bonus round. Will it have a loss of power output at the plug by fireing both cylenders simultaneously, kind of like divideing coil rating in half? | ||
| Blake |
No. The plugs are run in parallel. You get the full voltage at each plug. Why are you so interested in this? The best thing you can do for your ignition delivery is to use a good set of plug wires to keep them from arcing. | ||
| Skulley |
Blake, the intrest is derived from all the different options one can chose in upgrades. I want to know why a price tag makes Crane, Dyna or SE more valuable than the stock stuff? He who buys the junk with a high price assumes its best. I on the other hand want to learn what really works and how. I would like the best of the best on my bike, the stuff that really works, as does everyone else. I want to make my money count the first time, for I am a miser! Hell, I have 12K tied up in a home stereo and I only make 14 bucks an hour. I am the gotta have it guy that saves his pennies for months to plunk down on the most useless infomercial POS someone can dream up! Bottom line is I will research something untill I can justify to myself that its worth buying. So get this I want to buy a SE coil (just cuz its red). I already bought red Magna Core 8.5mm. wires and soon a red top battery. Oh, don't for get the red labled Torq Master plugs. You know the hole red ignition thing. I gotta sell this friking bike..... persosnal plate to be (MNY-PIT)? | ||
| Blake |
Okay, I thought you might be running a dragster or something. Since you are not, my advice is to forget the high dollar coil. It will do little to nothing for your performance. The wires aren't a bad idea. Don't know about the plugs. | ||
| Luckyrucker |
Okay folks......Engine trouble in paradise!!!!! I am new to the wonderful world that is Buell. I just picked up a 99 X1 Lightning with 3500 miles on it. After a week of riding I have already run into a major problem. While on a short trip during my lunch break, before getting on the freeway the bike hiccupped. My Engine light came on 2 miles down the road. My exit was the next one so I pulled off of the freeway, and the light turned off again. Noticed shortly after that that the engine was misfiring and that it seemed to be running on only one cylinder at times. Definite noticeable loss of power and more shaking than normal. I dont want to keep riding like this and am a little disturbed at having a bike I've had for a week go south on me. Any suggestions as to the problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love the bike and want to get it fixed. Summer is right around the corner and I already have the weather for riding now. If I am asking in the wrong section....somebody please correct me and send me along the right path Thank you all fellow Buellers. | ||
| Blake |
Have your fuel injection system checked out. Sounds like you may have a bad sensor. Have you used any fuel additives? The O2 sensor is sensitive to some fuel additives. Also check for an intake manifold leak. Was fuel tank full? If so, try loosening your fuel filler cap next time it happens. If the symptoms cease upon releasing the seal on your filler cap, you probably have a clogged tank vent/line. Your dealer should be able to diagnose the problem on a dyno if all else fails. Let us know what you find. Not sure where this thread should go. Maybe the Quick Board?  | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Luckyrucker, if it was the rear cylinder try the overheat sensor. I've heard of a couple of those being dodgy. HTH. PS, I believe there is a "technical upgrade" to the overheat sensor (new location for sensor) and a new ECM module for early DDFI Buells. Check yours has been done? Steve http://ukbeg.com steve@ukbeg.com | ||
| Seatonii |
Skulley. If you have an X1 it came from the factory with a single fire coil and ignition system. I read some information that Aaron posted that I believe states he could not find any more power with a single fire over a dual fire system. Hope this helps. P.S if you read in the ignition section of the service manual is talks about the single fire. DWIGHT | ||
| Luckyrucker |
Thanks for the input Blake and steve... Taking to the dealer tomorrow. Dang it. I just want to ride!  | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
Luckyrucker, I had the same problem last summer but my engine light did not come on. I have a 98 S1. I traced the problem to bad gasoline, there was water in it. I drained the tank and carb bowl, filled it up with new premium gas (different station of course. I started to drive it to the local Harley dealer to have it diagnosed and the problem went away. I would try that as well. Good Luck. Bill | ||
| Joem |
Luckyrucker... my 99X1 did the same thing. My prob was the O2 sensor in the header... an easy "fix it yourself" My plugs were also fouled because of this. I've been through 2 O2 sensors in 2 years... later bikes moved them further down because 99s eat them for lunch. Your dealer scanner can read the trouble code... your engine light is on because it "knows" something, so that has been stored. There is a manual way that I have never bothered with. Have you been here? http://TheX1Files.com | ||
| Luckyrucker |
 All you folks thanks for the input. As it turns out. Just got it back from the dealer. It was the O2 sensor. Thank god for extended warranties. I am back on the road and happy again. I sure am glad I found this place. Hope I am not having to add to the problems and sharing riding adventures instead.  | ||
| Shot_Gun |
Gentelemen of the jury, I have a question. Have any of you used IRRIDIUM PLUGS. (god I hope I spelled that right) I talked to a performance shop in Trenton NJ and he said on harley stock ignition they didn't work so good but he didn't know about adjustable ignitions. I was wondering have any of you had experience with them. They are $30 a pop so I don't want to buy them if they won't work! Your help would be greatly appreciated Thanks, SG  | ||
| Rempss |
No experience with them, but Nallin sells them for $12.95 each. IXU24 is the 10R12 cross. Jeff | ||
| Bcmike |
Quick question: the dealer just installed a new set of plugs. Are these right? NGK DCPR7E ( not according to the list above) I had 9's in it but he says they were 3 heat ranges too cold. ??? There was a lot of carbon in the combustion chambers and he blamed the plugs. I run the bike hard so thought 9's were right. The plug color was perfect with the 9's after 2,000 km. The bike has 18,000 km total. The engine was just rebuilt to try to solve a vibration problem. Damned if it doesn't still run the same after the rebuild! When I checked the plugs, I found #2 spark plug wire almost worn thru where it passes thru the guide... Gee...I wonder if that was the problem all along......<F-K!> Mike, 2001 Cyclone | ||
| Blake |
Mike: The 7E is too hot. Run, do not walk, away from that mechanic. Blaming combustion chamber carbon on the plug is not logical. If the plug shows good, that's the measure of correct heat range. The fact that he doesn't know the correct plug is pretty disconcerting. The 9E may be too cold. The stock plug corresponds to an 8E NGK plug. I run the factory plugs. | ||
| Shot_Gun |
Jeff thanks for the info. I guess if no one else is running them my question is answered. I still might get a set to try just for sh1t2 and giggles. SG | ||
| Bcmike |
That figures....thanks Blake. Since I've got your attention, can you tell me if it is normal to have sideplay at the ring gear sprocket? I can rock it on the clutch hub by hand. (Still trying to solve this big vibration problem.) Another lister here says no way. My dealer says its normal. To me it doesn't make sense to have the primary chain whipping around on a floppy rear sprocket. Any opinions welcomed. I need some accurate info before I take it back again for the third time. Mike 2001 Cyclone | ||
| Sportyeric |
Mike. I think there is a direct line to the factory, or maybe Court could get you some action. The ring gear doesn't contact the primary chain, but it does rotate and SHOULD NOT move on the clutchbasket. They are known to fail on Sportsters. Mine did. Its a warranty repair for you, without a doubt. Print out all responses from here and take it to your dealer and demand repairs be made. Your dealer's mechanic is an effing idiot.  | ||
| Blake |
BCMike: Sounds like a problem to me. But, uh... wrong topic amigo. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Well, Mike. In the expectation that Blake will move this to Drivetrain-Primary sometime, I might as well continue here. I just took my primary apart last night. The ring gear, which the starter works on, works as a unit with the outer shell of the clutch basket, to which the teeth that the chain works on is attached. That whole complex: ringgear, clutch shell and primary teeth(for lack of the right word) will wiggle back and forth (sideways) because it is attached to the shaft through the clutch plates and their spring. The ring gear itself, though, shouldn't move with respect to the outer shell. BTW, Blake, I replaced both the main and countershaft 5th gears I was asking about earlier. Coughing up the bucks for a proper repair. Thanks for your input. | ||
| Hauck |
How much should rezeroing a TPS run, and how long should it take? From what I've heard here there isn't much to it but my local dealer just told me it'd be $75 and 1.5 hours. Is this a normal price (by normal I mean the usual harley markup)? |
