| Author | Message | ||
     Freyke |
All: I've been quoted $90.80 for a new stock eight button 2002 front carrier and rotor... I have a 98 S3... Just to make doubly-sure before I purchase/order this... Will it will fit as a direct replacemnt for the 98 six button rotor and carrier??? I suspect it will... And if so, any tips on breaking the rotor carrier fasteners (Hex head bolts) free from the wheel? As I have stated in earlier post I'm afflicted with the "rattling rotor" caper... It does not appear to be unsafe, just annoying...  Thanks ahead of time.... kk//kef | ||
| Jeffh |
Freyke: Yes, the rotor is a direct swap. As for removing the old rotor: IMPACT. Use a high quality Allen wrench tip and an impact tool. If you want to aid the bit not to strip out the head of the fastener, use a dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of the wrench before inserting it into the bolt. | ||
| Blake |
Freyke: Henrik just last week went through this ordeal and posted his experience and recommendations in the Knowledge Vault's "Wheels, Tires, Brakes" topic.  | ||
| Troll |
G'day from OZ, I to am affected with rotor rattle, was told by dealer parts no longer available, is this so? | ||
| Rick_a |
I'd image so. I tried to get some of the old tapered brake rotor bolts and that was a no-go too. | ||
| Kahuna |
Freyke, i just replaced the front rotor on my 98 S1W (the rattles got REALLY loud, you got hear me coming from a mile!) and you will also need the new style bolts too in order to mount it to the hub. they are sold separately and do not come with the rotor. it is not recomended to use your existing bolts to mount the new rotor. at least thats what my tech told me. | ||
| Blake |
Troll, The new rotor/carrier has superseded the old versions and will bolt right up. It is a rotor/carrier combined assembly. Or you could order an EBC steel disk with aluminum carrier from American Sport Bike. | ||
| Bartimus |
When these rotors start "rattling", is it because the allen bolts holding them are getting loose? I just checked my rotor today and noticed the bolts holding it to the rim where just a tad loose. When I tried to tighten them it felt like the Allen wrench was going to strip out the bolt head.  Is this looseness what you guys are talking about? edited by bartimus on April 29, 2004 | ||
| Henrik |
Bart; AFAIK the looseness is a result of wear, not loose bolts. The rotor moves around a bit, and the buttons gradually wears away a bit of the round cut-out in the rotor carrier. That's when they begin to rattle. Can't remember how it is for the stock S2 rotor, but the first stock rotor on my S3 began rattling after a couple of years. The newer rotors seem to have alleviated that. Henrik | ||
| Bartimus |
Henrik, Thanks, the loose disc is on my '98 S1W. the bolts are tight, but the buttons are loose and spin freely. I assume this means it is time to replace? if so, do I need to replace with the new "upgraded" solid disc? I saw a post above where this is priced around $100. Is this from the Stealership? I'm hoping I have a couple of hundred miles left in this disc as I'm getting ready to run out to Cali for a week. | ||
| Henrik |
Bart; I don't think there is any real cause for concern, as long as the swept are of the rotor isn't about to fall off (please anyone in the know correct me if I'm wrong). And yes, about $100 is dealer price. It's not unlikely that some of the sponsors could help you out. Henrik | ||
| Bvan |
I've fixed my rotor rattling by putting some heat resistant fiber washers between the rotor an the rotor mount. It stopped the rattling and I have already put more than 15000 Km on it since. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Buell Anti-Rattle Kit: Anyone have the service sheet on exactly how this part kit installs? I got the kit but it didn't include any installation instructions. Thanks!!! Dennis | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Lake, Where did you get the kit? I could really use one for my S2. Brad edited by bluzm2 on July 07, 2004 | ||
| S2pengy |
The kit really doesn't help.. All it is is larger spacers to spread the weight out more... It assembles just like the orginal spacer assembly.... Out to in countersunk screw, spacer on one side of the disc then wavey washer, flat washer and nut... I found it was sooo hard not to pinch the wavey washer that I put it on against the spacer... Anyway the best way to go is the later model disc.... Also it is a good idea to check the clearance between the caliper housing and the disc especially if you are replacing the early disc setup where the disc sat against the carrier and not inline with it.. I found was not even close to being centered in the caliper, a washer between the fork and caliper did wonders.... |
