G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Big Mechanicals: Head, Cyl, Piston, Rod, Crank, Flywheel, Cases, Bearings » Archive through October 22, 2006 » Oil Gusher (99 X1) « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I Know this Board has seen it All. (Almost)
99 X1 blew almost a Qt of Syn 3 out My Rerouted Breathers.
This was after 300 Mile trip to Vegas and a Weekend of Hard Riding between Vegas and Laughlin
(With a Little Drag Racing in Between)
3 Days into Trip Noticed slight Smoke out of Breather Filter.
No Oil before this? (NONE)
Before Breather Reroute, slight oil in Gutted Factory Airbox.
5th Day and 30 Miles into Trip Home, Oil Freakin, Eureka Out My Breather Filter!
Breathers are T'd down to Single Line which Y's near the Battery. One Up to Filter and 2nd slightly Down to Horizontal Catch Tube.
Hauled it Home and noticed alot of Air from Breather Tube.
Did a Compression Test and found the Rear Cylinder at 125 PSI and Front at 200 PSI?
Now I have both Rocker Boxes apart and I am Staring at 2 Perfectly Working Exhaust Valves.
I thought maybe the Front wasn't opening, causing excessive pressure and Blowby.
Oh Yea, Bike has approx. 15,000 Miles and Never Smoked!
I've searched the Board for Days now and can't seem to find any Info thats similar.
Any Ideas will be greatly appreciated and maybe it will help others.
I can't be the Only X1 out there with Too High Compression?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Firemanjim
Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First question is-did you accidently overfill before the trip?If not how did the oil drain back holes in the rockers look,if you got some crap in one oil would be filling rocker area.That is kinda alot of variation between cylinders.Sounds like rings.Rear cylinders take a beating from more heat and be sure to check your intake seals as a leaker would trash rear cylinder.Is the breather from your trans connected to this line also?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Monday, May 09, 2005 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Jim,
Thanks for Reply.
Oil Fill was very Precise. (I Think)Ha!
Half way between the Lines. (Fresh Oil change)
Oil Drain Back Holes had oil around them but were Clear.They're small, I haven't Drilled them to 1/8" Yet.
I'm getting different info from several sources about PSI on Compression Tests.
I thought My Manual stated 120 PSI Minimum, But other sources are telling me 200 is normal?
Which would reverse my earlier analysis.
This would make more sense. Like you said, The Rear Runs Hotter and more Prone to Damage.
Intake Seals were changed approx. 2000 Miles ago.
Crankcase Breather is Not Connected to Trans Breather. Which Never Blows Oil since I Changed the Primary Seal.
(With excellent info from Here since the Factory Manual is pretty Vague on this one.
I was Hoping this Post would be Moved to the Breather Section, But the More I find out it seems like I May Have Piston Trouble.
Any Considerations are Greatly Appreciated
Thanks,
Rob
(Mayneversellit)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robr
Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I too had oil excessive oil coming out my breathers on my '99 X1 when I ran it to a "Y" fitting as well. When I switched over to two separate breather hoses to a catch can under the seat, I now have only a fine oil mist into the catch can.
I hope your problem is as simple as this...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yea Robr,
That was my First thought also, until I ran a Compression Test.
Under the Seat?
Is the Can on its side?
I was going to change mine to 2 Lines down to 2 separate Filters. (Mounted Somewhere?)
I was also afraid of pooling, since my original Turns Up.
What Type Catch Can are you using?
This is after I Figure out which Cylinders PSI is Correct? (And Possible NRHS Rebuild)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 03:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone thought about putting "BLAST"/"XB" PVC
valves in the stock rocker arm covers and putting a bolt in the factory breather hole ???

Never even removed the umbrella valves and run the two breather hoses into a 20W50 plastic QT.
oil container under the licence plate bracket ...

WORKS FOR ME !!!

In BUELLing
LaFayette
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robr
Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2005 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm embarassed to say it but mine is just a homemade black rubber "cup" mounted sideways next to the brake reservoir. It is open ended with a paper towel stuck in it. Crude to say the least, but it is out of sight and it works.
Maybe I'm wrong but I'd be skeptical of the compression test if the motor ain't smoking out the exhaust. Now that the rockers are open, pull the plugs and turn the motor by hand, besides a nice breeze blowin' up through the spark plug holes you should be able to inspect the tops of the pistons with a small flashlight. Also I've heard a leakdown test is the way to go because compression tests are not all that accurate.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Friday, May 13, 2005 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey, It works better than mine did!
I would like to do the same, do you get some oil?
If your getting some oil than I guess there is no pooling created by turning Up.
I am very skeptical of my Compression readings, Especially with all the conflicting info on correct PSI readings.
ANYBODY?
I did look thru spark Plug Holes and No Damage that I can See. Other than Very Black, as were the Plugs which were always Gray Before.
Leakdown Test this weekend, started to do one and noticed alot of air thru timing bolt hole.
Buellistic,
Do you mean to drill the Stock Rocker Tops?
I remember reading another Post on This?
Rob S

(Message edited by neversellit on May 13, 2005)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Davefl
Posted on Friday, May 13, 2005 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A friend of mines S3 lost compression in one cylinder and did not smoke.. The compression ring broke but the oil control rings were fine. Do another compression test and maybe a leak down test just to make sure.. Be sure and hold the throttle open when you do the compression test.

(Message edited by davefl on May 13, 2005)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Friday, May 13, 2005 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Neverselit:

If you do it right you can use the stock rocker arm covers ...

Two things that are a "MUST DO" !!!

Break the engine in properly !!!

"AND"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Warm it up before you run it hard !!!!


In BUELLing
LaFayette
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Friday, May 13, 2005 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"OIL LEVEL" !!!!!

The "STOCK CAPACITY" of TUBE FRAME BUELLs is 2 1/2 Quarts ... Of course that is with the small
OEM filter ...

The next time you change the FILTER AND OIL you
only put in "2 1/2 QUARTS" ...

Go for a ride to get the ENGINE up to operating
temperature ...

This is how you check the "PROPER LEVEL" in the OIL TANK ...
STOP on LEVEL GROUND with the bike "ON THE SIDE STAND" and "ENGINE RUNNING" check the OIL LEVEL ... The BEST time to check the oil level is after a ride ...

THIS WILL BE THE CORRECT "OIL LEVEL" FOR YOUR ENGINE !!!

If at any time after the OIL CHANGE, oil is added above this normal level your engine will puke it out ... ie: HEAD BREATHERS !!!

In BUELLing
LaFayette
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robr
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rob, after 3000 miles (my oil change interval), I replace the paper towel. The bottom is covered with oil and the rest of the towel is yellow but not soaked. All together I would guess at only an ounce and not more than two. My breathers are routed up as well and I can hear them breathing and feel them with my finger tip. Others on this board recommend routing them down, but on my bike when I did this I wound up blowing large quantities of oil.
LaFayette makes some great points including one which should be etched into the oil tank of my Buell, and that is ONLY CHECK OIL LEVEL AFTER RIDING! Twice I made the mistake of adding maybe a half a quart of oil after only warming the bike up in the driveway. Down the road at a gas stop I was lucky to notice my rear tire coated in oil. Upon rechecking the level I found so much oil it blew the cap off my oil tank! Alot of oil must hide in these engines. I believe both times this happened was on the first ride of the season when the oil had a long time to gravitate down the oil lines and into the engine. What surprises me though was that after maybe a five minute warm up(March is cold in NJ), the oil was not scavenged back to the tank. Now I'll only check/top off the oil after riding, which I guess gets the revs up high enough to scavenge all the oil.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I Totally Agree.
First Time I've heard to Check "With Engine Running". Interesting and Maybe Not a Bad Idea?

Well here's the Pics, After The Rear Cylinder Failed My Leakdown Test. (80% Leakage)

Is the Top Compression Ring Supposed to be In a Billion Segments and Stacked on the Back Side?


And Leave Grooves in the Cylinder?


Does Anybody have any Recommendations on Their Favorite 1250CC Piston/ Cylinder Upgrades?
Are (Just) Pistons/ Cylinders enough?
Any Ideas are Appreciated!
Rob S
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Robr
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 08:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bad news. Sorry to see it. Could have been worse though. I would recommend just staying stock though. It's cheap and easy and I don't like what I've been reading about the nikasil lined cylinders. Is it possible the cylinder could just be rehoned, with oversize rings put on a new piston. Are you running an oil cooler?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yea,
Maybe Rerouting my Lines helped me notice the Problem Sooner.

Staying Stock doesn't seem to Last very Long either (15,000 Mi)

I would Like to Make it Stonger. (Lots of TORQUE)
To Handle SEVERE DUTY Better.
I have Read some Postings here about some of the Nikasil Liners having issues and I share Your concerns.
I was Trying to Find "Screaming Eagle" Parts?
I'm not sure about Honing originals.
Doesn't seem as Strong, But I'm Not an Expert.
Funny, But the Front Cylinder was Clean with Original Bore Machining Marks still showing!
But, That Piston has alot of Carbon Buildup and I was thinking Maybe that created My HIGH Compression Readings.

Oil Cooler is a Great Question as I think this was caused by OverHeating, which caused the Ring to Shatter into Segments.
I am Running one of those "BilletCool" Screw on Oil Coolers. Not sure how EFFECTIVE they Are.
Maybe go with one of those Buell Fans.
I have been stuck idling in traffic on So Cal Hot Days.
I didn't really like the way they almost Obstruct Air Flow?
I do Like the Way the New XB Oil Cooler has a Fan On it. Maybe Modify one to Fit?
Thanks,
rob s
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Davefl
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The broken ring was probably caused by an intake leak inducing detonation in the bad cylinder. That is what happened to my friends bike but he found the problem before it got that bad.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 16, 2005 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the subject of "INTAKE LEAK" !!!

The way to avoid intake leaks is to REPLACE the
SEAL, intake manifold PN 26995-86B "EVERY TWO
YEARs" as a "PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE PROGRAM" !!!

In BUELLing
LaFayette

(Message edited by buellistic on May 16, 2005)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Neversellit
Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2005 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not an Intake Leak.
I replaced both seals not long ago.
This removal I found both seals compressed and in Excellent Shape.
Has anyone Honed original Cylinders?
Higher Compression Pistons 10.5?
Thanks!
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration